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TF P-40 Build Thread

Old 04-11-2007, 03:59 PM
  #251  
P-40 DRIVER
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Sorry to hear about the wreck. These birds can be a bit of a pain to keep straight on takeoff.
Old 04-11-2007, 06:27 PM
  #252  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Wow tough break,

you can always pull off the throttle and steer away from the fence, but take off prematurely and tip stall/snap OUCH! [X(]
I did that once too, but I hit a culvert. [:@] Thankfully the wing bolts did their job and sheared... saved the airplane and the gear didn't rip out! whew!!!!
[:-]
Old 04-15-2007, 09:52 AM
  #253  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Juice, you may find this useful when you get ready to paint your plane [link]http://paintprosusa.safeshopper.com/19/cat19.htm?534[/link]
Old 04-15-2007, 10:34 AM
  #254  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Here we go again, I just unpacked the box and inventoried the parts. I will be incorperating what I learned on the last one into this one. Though the problems have been minor and corrected, I will be somethings differently this go around.
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Old 04-15-2007, 03:37 PM
  #255  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Hello.

There's many nice projects here. I'm building one myself her in Norway and I have come to the AFT BOTTOM FILLET behind the wing. But I have a huge problem. I can't find the pattern from the plans. Is there anyone who can scan ore know of where I can find a copy of this without buiyng a whole new set of drawings?

Best regards

Ole Chr. Espedal
Norway

P.S. This is my first scale project.
Old 04-15-2007, 03:59 PM
  #256  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Thats because there is no pattern, Its a piece of 1/64" plywwod that came with the kit. It was was in same piece of plywood the bases for the fillet were in. The patterns for the top pieces are on the top of the fuselage drawings.
Old 04-16-2007, 12:11 AM
  #257  
o-esped
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Thanks. I shal look in the box when I come home from work today. But I checked the manual on the net at it says: Step 13. Use the pattern furnished on plans to cut the two Aft Bottom Fillets from 1/16" balsa sheet.

But I'll check around when I come home.
Old 04-17-2007, 02:00 PM
  #258  
Pete T
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

o-esped

I am wrapping up my P-40 (laying fiberglass) and know the point you are at. I ended
up putting some 1/16 sheeting aft of the wing that was slightly larger than the aft bottom
of the wing fillet. With the wing in place on the fuselage I cut a piece of balsa that fit flush
to the trailing edge of the wing for each side and glued the sheeting to the aft ply fillet
bottom. It seems to "clean up" the underside aft of the wing and makes a smooth transition
from the bottom of the wing to the bottom of the fuselage--you will have a nice edge that
the wing will fit down into when you mount it to the fuselage.
The Spitfire kit used this method and I thought I would incorporate it in the P-40.

Thanks to all the P-40 posters. I have been enjoying reading and using the tips also. I hope
to be painting mine in a couple of weeks.

Pete
Old 04-17-2007, 02:09 PM
  #259  
o-esped
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

I think I will make a tamplate from a foodwrap paper with the wing on that I just can transfer to a 1/16" sheet of balsa. And then it's just the belly pan left and a lot of sanding. It's a joy for me to read all these post and get some inspiration for my project. I don't feel alone here on the other side of the sea... So I'll keep watcing this thread.
Old 04-17-2007, 03:00 PM
  #260  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

P-40,

I had and used one of those PreVal units a long time ago and they were more trouble than they were worth. They may be ok for the small plastic models and such, but they are not big enough to do a proper job on planes the size of the TF P-40 and similar size planes in my experiance. Expensive and frustrating (kept running out of air in the middle of a project) to keep buying the "air" cans, need extra cans on hand to swap out as they froze up, need a pan of hot water to bring them back up to room temp and the final paint job wasn't that good. Got myself a compressor and airbrush and the results were so much better than with they PreVal unit, no comparison and a lot less trouble painting (clean up is still a bit of a pain) and the compressor can be used for other things (blowing up bike tires and other inflatables, moving dust around in the shop etc.). Drawback is the initial out lay in $ for the compressor and airbrush (also have a touch up spray brush and regular sprayer now for those bigger jobs).
Old 04-17-2007, 04:15 PM
  #261  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Thanks for the info on the paint units, I was hoping that they would at least replace a spray paint can for I have no money for painting equipment right now. I may be using a foam brush instead then. Lusterkote has discontinued OD green so I'm in a bit of a bind. I wanted to use "Warbird Colors" but we will see, It maybe latex instead. Do you think they would work for painting the plastic parts though?
Old 04-17-2007, 05:37 PM
  #262  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

P-40,

I wouldn't waste my time on the Preval units. Badger use to have a cheap external (siphon type) air brush (models 250-1 Basic or 250-4 Mini) that came with an adapter (p/n 50-200) for the Propel air cans. It used a small diameter plastic (vinyl?) air hose (p/n 50-001 or 50-0011) and it would be a better way to go. The cans do get expensive though even though I believe I saw them in Wal-Mart. It may be better to save your money for the air equipment and use a brush for now.

Latex, thinned, may be the way to go with the foam brush and it is cheap. Top coat it with a poly urethane or the LusterKote clear (check compatibility on scrap first) for fuel resistance. Roy Vaillancourt had an article about using house paint a few years ago, using cheap windshied washer fluisd as thinner to help it flow out and retard drying. The problem is, latex takes a long, long time (like 2-3 months) to fully dry/cure before you can top coat it. Do a seach about painting either here or on RC Scale Builder to see if you can locate the article. I have lost the link.

For OD Green, if you have a paint chip, take it to the paint store and they can mix a quart for you and it will cover many planes.
Old 04-19-2007, 08:31 PM
  #263  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

oops
Old 04-19-2007, 08:46 PM
  #264  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Juice suggested we post some pictures, so here they are. I thought I’d show how I was going to make part of the canopy removable so I could easily replace the batteries, since this is going to be an all-electric P-40. My plan is to cut the plastic canopy in half, right at the back the pilot’s headrest. My plan is to glue the aft part of the canopy to the fuse and make the front half overlap the aft part by 1/8” or so. The lump at that point in the canopy should make is easy to overlap the aft part.

Picture 1 is the bottom of the fuse showing that I moved the servo rack back between F4 and F5, instead of between F3 and F4, an easy enough move.

Picture 2 shows the fuse before the modification.

Picture 3 shows the canopy sitting on top of the modified fuse. The seams between the removable canopy and the fuse won’t be seen when the canopy if properly painted.

Picture 4 shows the ‘tray’ that will, when finished, be glued to the front half of the removable canopy.

Picture 5 shows the fuse without the canopy and ‘tray’. I plan to install the batteries fore/aft as needed to achieve balance at the center of gravity point and at an angle so I can easily remove them with the canopy removed.

Picture 6 shows just the ‘tray’. To strengthen the ‘tray’ I plan to glass it before painting/glue to the canopy.

On the bottom of the tray, I plan to install 4 centering blocks to keep the tray/canopy in place fore/aft and side to side, with holes so a spring-loaded dowel assembly can secure it up/down. I’m going to make a small handle that will extend out the bottom of the fuse, just before the tail wheel.


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Old 04-20-2007, 02:02 AM
  #265  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

got to chime in with skylark yrs ago I worked in a paint store and we sold those preval paint sprayers you are going to spend 50$ on those stupid air canisters,and they are always clogging up and don't work half the time.
you might as well buy a cheap little badger or generic plastic air brush for a few sheckels more and if you take care of it you will be surprised how long they last and how many projects you can knock out with it.
your better off sving your $$ waiting and getting something better
Old 04-20-2007, 06:04 AM
  #266  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Has anybody just covered their model instead of glassing and paint? Looks like it would be lighter.
Old 04-20-2007, 05:37 PM
  #267  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

TELEJOJO, Mine is monokoted and I used Lusterkote on the plastic pieces although Top Flite has discontinued OD green [:@]. See my pictures on page 10. My plane has no retracts or flaps, flys and lands fine at 8.75 pounds. Once I figuered out the rudder trim issue which required mixing throttle and rudder, the plane comes in rock steady. Use thin strips in the filet area and you will be fine. I personally do not like to paint or handle epoxy. I may get fiberglass parts this go around, (yes I'm building another one), and monokote those as well.
Old 04-20-2007, 09:36 PM
  #268  
andernamen
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

How did everyone fill in around the tail area? I haven't glued the tail feathers in yet, but the instructions say nothing about filling where the tail feathers meet the fuze top.
Old 04-20-2007, 10:12 PM
  #269  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

P-40 Driver,looks good I think I will cover mine and run a Magnum 91 or an OS.91. and fiberglass cowl.
Old 04-21-2007, 07:02 AM
  #270  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

andernamen, I just cut a piece of balsa about the rite size and used lite weight filler to do the rest, nothing fancy but it works. Just find a picture of a real P-40 to compare. It will not be quite the same because the model has a different stab incidense then the real one.
Old 04-21-2007, 07:07 AM
  #271  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

TELEJOJO, I would go with the OS .91 four stroke over the Magnum because the OS runs better upside down from my experience.
Old 04-21-2007, 06:49 PM
  #272  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Thanks ,will go with OS..........
Old 04-22-2007, 09:36 AM
  #273  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

I finally put the teeth decals on my plane. I had to paint the area under the decal white so they would show up. I tried this once before and could not see the teeth. I think painting on these teeth is the only way to go and would not recommend the decal unlees you want a poor looking job.
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:53 AM
  #274  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Juice, have not heard anything from you in a while, burnout? or other stuff going on, would really like to hear about how everything turned out so I can make plans for my next one incorperating some of the stuff you tried. These planes are a tough build as far time is concerned but if your burned out just go put a few minuts a day and this will get it finished because once you start, you will keep going. Hope to hear from you.
Old 05-08-2007, 09:23 AM
  #275  
Juice
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Sorry for the lack of updates. It's not burnout becuase I every spare minute in the workshop. It's all the other stuff going on... work picking up, church activities, pool night with the guys (that's 8-ball, not swimming with the guys). And now that summer is here, softball has started. My other planes have been de-winterized and flying is now taking precedence over building.

I have managed to sneek a few minutes here and there for the P-40. This is what I've done since I last reported an update:
- Flaps and wing servo hatches (4 of them) have been fiberglassed.
- Cleaned up the joint form the wing fillet to the wing using Chad Veich's method this thread:
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=406562]The basics of wing fillets[/link]
- Added fillet for fin and horizontal stab. I used epoxy with micro balloons to shape them then putty to smooth them out.
- All the epoxy on both sets of fillets add up to 3/8 oz.
- Learning how to use an airbrush on paper and scrap wood.
- The paint hasn't arrived yet (don't ask, that's another long story), but I should be ready when it gets here next week.

And one last excuse... my digital camera broke. I either have to try to fix it, find a new one, or borrow one.

Juice

Edit: Epoxy on fillets add up to 3/8 oz, not 1-3/8 oz.

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