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TF P-40 Build Thread

Old 11-17-2006, 01:18 PM
  #51  
Juice
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Loctite and [email protected] Sorry, I can't help you with the shark teeth. I remember reading somewhere in RCU that the stock shark teeth decals are hard to apply. But you can't leave them off becuase a P-40 doesn't look complete without them. I don't know how, but I had planned all along that I'm going to paint mine on. Look at [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4928269]Post #1[/link] what mine are supposed to look like.

Josh
Old 11-17-2006, 01:34 PM
  #52  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

I made two steps forward and one step back.

The two steps forward is that I got the top of both wing panels sheeted (Pic #1).

The step back is that there are a few unglued spots near the leading edge of the left wing. I marked the unglued lengths with "X------X" in Pic #2... Three along the leading edge and one along a rib. I would like to avoid cutting the top sheeting. . I don't have access from the aileron servo bays because the spar webs are in the way. I do have access to those areas from the lightening holes in the ribs, but it will be difficult to drop the glue at exact spots. I may have to cut open the bottom sheeting to get access to the inside of the top sheeting. It's more important for the top to be blemish free, right? Anyone got any other ideas?

I'm going to skip the wing tips until this is solved. I'm going to move on to fitting the ailerons and flaps until there is a solution to the sheeting problem.

Josh
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:03 PM
  #53  
bigtim
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

if I miss a spot on the sheeting, I will take my #11 knife and make small slices where the glue need to be then with a small "drip tip aplicator" soak some thin CA where it's loose the sheeting will stick down pretty good. if you dont have a aplicator tip you can get them at the LHS they control the flow and direction of the CA so you don't soak the area making it almost impossable to sand, instead it goes where you need it.
Old 11-17-2006, 05:20 PM
  #54  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Josh, make a small incision with a #11 blade and then wick in thin CA, it will flow right to the area that needs to be glued, keep pressure down on the spot whilest doing this. The wing can be moved about so that the CA is made to run where it needs to go by gravity if you understand my meaning?

A drop of CA on the incision will seal it and it can be hidden with lightweight filler after.

Very easy to fix so don't stress it.

cheers
Peter
Old 11-17-2006, 08:49 PM
  #55  
Juice
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Tim and Peter... Fixed. I had a pack of CA applicators in my cupboard but had never used them until today. Thanks for the tip.
Old 11-17-2006, 09:39 PM
  #56  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

no wukkin furries
Old 11-19-2006, 11:37 PM
  #57  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Well LDM.....Here are the pictures of my re-freshed sharks teeth after quite a bit of sanding, touching up and a final 3 coats of flat TF Lustre Coat.
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Old 11-19-2006, 11:40 PM
  #58  
Juice
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

I fitted and hinged the ailerons and flaps. I'm not going to permanently glue them in until after everything has been painted.

1) Right aileron (bottom)

I think the full size P-40 has airfoil shaped ailerons with the LE on the bottom surface, the top sheet extending back to cover the gap, and the hinge line on the bottom surface. I found a picture once, but didn't save it and can't find it anymore.

My ailerons are NOT like that. For simplicity, I rounded the leading edge, extended the top and bottom sheeting with 1/64" ply to cover the gap, and the hinge line is centered 1/4" behind the leading edge.

2) Left aileron (bottom)

3) Left flap, up (bottom)

4) Right flaps, 90 degrees down (bottom)

5) These views show that my flaps are slightly warped. I'm not going to worry about them yet. I'll figure out how to straighten them later.

Next are the wing tips.
Josh
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Old 11-19-2006, 11:45 PM
  #59  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Loctite...

The teeth looks good. It looks much better with the black against the top teeth.

What do you have left to do before the maiden?

Josh
Old 11-19-2006, 11:54 PM
  #60  
Loctite
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Thanks Josh, I need to finish installing fuel tank, install on board glo driver, clean up the bundle of wires and air lines in the fuselage, glue the canopy, install the receiver switch, loctite all the engine mount bolts and wheel collars, go over all the Robart set screws and re-adjust travel speed on retracts, drill needle valve hole and install extension, hook up exhaust (I am running an OS FS1.20 Surpass w/pump in this and ended up using the "in-cowl" header and a 6" flex pipe and silicone diverter..........no silencer or muffler) Balance it, weigh it.....and that is about it!!!! Oh yah.....I still need to mount my air filler valve and pressure gage (still pondering that location)
Old 11-20-2006, 12:01 AM
  #61  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Yours is coming along nice too Josh.....Man, it brings back memories!!!! Seems like a long time ago I was where you are at!!!! Looks like you are paying alot of attention to detail right from the go ie: Aileron attachments)...This being my first attempt at scale, I have learned alot.......the hardest thing I have to learn, and may never get it, is patience. Although many of my friends see what I do down in my cellar and wonder where I get all my patience. Scale takes a TON OF IT!!! Keep up the great work. I took great care in building my flaps and I still ended up with a small gap on the outboard of my port flap when raised.
Old 11-20-2006, 05:29 AM
  #62  
LDM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

loctite , great job !!! those teeth look excellant , I think that the black really adds the depth , I dont know why Top Flight had the white in the background , I have seen many versions but not the white -agian great job on the plane !!!!

Josh yours look great as well , really nice clean build .
I would love to build this plane but woory about the take off history , the close gear stance is what scares me
Old 11-20-2006, 06:22 AM
  #63  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Lou, a gyro solves that problem
Old 11-20-2006, 09:23 AM
  #64  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Lou, can you talk about the gyro a bit? I too am a little concerned about how this plane will handle on takeoff, although I have not seen any written complaints about it as of yet. Our field is not the flattest or smoothest, which is not going to help any. Are you saying a gyro would lessen the tendancy to jerk around the runway? How do they install and how well do they work? Rob
Old 11-20-2006, 11:01 PM
  #65  
LDM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Pete can you elaborate on the proper use of the gyro for me and Loctite ,
Thanks
LOu
Old 11-20-2006, 11:10 PM
  #66  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Juice I've got to build and PAINT one of these I love the P-40 Tigershark or 'War Hawk.'as is your build.
Old 11-20-2006, 11:11 PM
  #67  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Oh my goodness[sm=eek.gif][sm=lol.gif]
Old 11-21-2006, 12:53 AM
  #68  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Well, I am getting close now!!! Down to just a few small details. Having trouble mounting the air fill valve in the suggested location and still have room to hook up the compressor. Weighed it out all complete........12.5 lbs!!! Not too bad, I am guessing the OS 1.20 4 stroke and the Graupner 15x8 3 bladed prop will have no trouble hauling it around. If all goes well and the weather cooperates......maybe within the next week she should have her maiden flight!!! Will keep ya'all posted.....sure am interested in this gyro deal!!!!
Old 11-21-2006, 04:14 AM
  #69  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Lou,
easy mate


ok gyro for the P40 101, have you got your enrolments in? Got your texts? Could be your old alma mata but we will see!

ok I used a JR 460T on mine but any good gyro that allows remote gain control can be used as long as it is compatible with your radio system. If it has heading lock turn that feature off.

You need a powerful and FAST, repeat FAST servo on rudder.

What I did was this:

1. gyro is on a Y lead with Rudder but has it's gain control lead on a seperate AUX ch that is slaved to the retract ch.

2. You also mix in a separate ch to the gyro gain control ch that is used to adjust the amount of gain you want via an AUX trim pot.

So what happens is this. Retracts down, as the gyro gain control is slaved to retracts it gets full amount of deflection or in this case 100% gain. In other words it is ON. You can adjust the sensitivity of the gyro by way of the other ch you have mixed into it by way of the 2nd AUX ch.

with me so far? Good it is not as hard as it sounds.

ok retracts go up, hence the signal is now at min defelction or in this case 0. Gain of gyro is set to zero hence it is effectively off. The retract ch should be set as MASTER so it overides the other aux ch.

This is how I set up my P40. Take offs were a breeze, even easier then a trike trainer. Landing approaches were rick solid, drop the flaps, set trim and power and it would nearly land itself as the gyro keep it locked on course.

hope this helps
cheers
PEter
Old 11-21-2006, 07:21 PM
  #70  
LDM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Pete , great advice , seems simple text book the way you explaned it .
I have to try one of these babys !!!!
Old 11-21-2006, 08:59 PM
  #71  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

they are good fun but remember that the gyro on rudder needs to be off in flight or it will fight against you in the turns.

if you put one on ailerons you will be amazed at how stable the plane becomes, I do not use em there but on wifes pegasus trainer we had one while she was learning, worked well.

Do not use on elevators though, that is arecipe for disaster![X(]
cheers
Peter
Old 11-22-2006, 09:51 AM
  #72  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

1) Before gluing in the Tip TE Blocks, I roughly shaped them and then Dremmeled out the inside. Weight saving is approximately 1.34 g.

2) I did the same thing the Tip Blocks. Weight saving is approximately 8.61 g. And Dremmeling out the holes in the W13's saved approximately 0.45 g.

I've been keeping a spreadsheet to calculate the weight I've saved by carving, drilling and what not. So far I've saved 22.47g, or 0.36 oz (all approximate numbers).

3) Wing tips complete.

4) Wing complete. I'm getting ready now to start the fuse.

Josh
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:12 PM
  #73  
Loctite
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Wow Josh, That seems like a lot of work just to save .36 oz!!!! Is it really worth the trouble???? Mine ended up right at 12.5 lbs RTF. That is with OS FS 1.20 4 stroke, Robart retracts,whole plane covered with 3/4 oz. glass cloth and Z-Poxy, 2-3 coats primer, topcoat and 3 coats TF Lustrecoat. I will be interested to see what yours weighs out at. How bout anyone else out there reading this??? What did your TF Warhawks weigh out at??? Well guys, if the weather is good in morning, I am heading out to the field!!! Going to run a couple tanks through the engine on the bench.....then taxi tests......then if I can muster the courage!!!!!! Maiden Flight?????? Will fill ya all in tomorrow night. Eat lots of Turkey!!! Rob
Old 11-23-2006, 07:21 AM
  #74  
LDM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

I have a pica 1/6 iP40 n the box , I plan on doing the exact same thing , save weight in every possible way without compromising strength .
Old 11-23-2006, 08:38 AM
  #75  
Loctite
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

LDM.......I was just wondering if it makes THAT much difference. I mean Josh has spent what appears to be, a LOT of time drilling out ribs and carving out blocks.....just to save a few ounces. At the end, if you end up saving say a whole pound!!!!!, does that make a huge difference?? I guess I am thinking that if your power-to-weight ratio is good, it just seems like a lot of work, not to mention the possibilities of comprimising strength, just to save those few ounces. Also, how does a little extra ounces, up to a pound say, affect the flying characteristics? My way of thinking is that if I were racing in competition it might be worth it, but for flying scale, it is not as important. Reletively speaking, I am very new to this building stuff so I am all ears and up for learning anything new. Thanks, Rob

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