Craig-RCU

One added note, I'm thinking that it would be best to add the sliver to the trailing edge of the flaps and aileron before you finalise the cut lines and saw your flaps off.

adwb

Craig am i being a bit dense ? I thought tere are 3 flaps but I only see two on your sketch which BTW is fine thank you.
Alistair

Craig-RCU

Sorry, I forgot to explain the third, innermost flap. Its chord is the same root to tip, so either 67mm for the top or 88mm for the bottom will be its chord measurement at the root too. I didn't give its length because that depends on the span of the center section of wing (of which I cut 1/4" off each end, so it is not stock span) and I built the inner flap up to butt up against the fuse so my inner flap measurement would be usless to you. You might not choose to build the inner flap up all the way to the fuse because that extra 1/4" that you have on your center section might make things look odd at the wing root. I think that a fairing at the wing root built to look like it is part of the main wing could solve any odd look problems. You don't have to decide that now. Just measure the outer and center flaps as shown in my drawing and cut all the way up to the center section of wing for the inner flap.

If you are going to build the inner flap up to meet the fuse, study the second picture in post #4 of this thread for what to do about where the inner flap meets the center section of wing. The bottom of the center section of my wing was cut all the way up to the belly pan on the bottom and all the way up to the fuse on the top. Only cut all the way up to the belly pan and fuse if you are going to build the flaps to butt up to the fuse. Maybe post some pictures of your flap lines before you cut to make sure we haven't miscommunicated drastically.

Garthwood

Craig-RCU.................It's been a while since I started to add flaps to the H9 Corsair, and may months back you've suggested that I should start on the second wing, modify it, and then to get creative to fix the first wing I had started on. It was put on the back burner because of the flying season. I have recently got back to it. I decided to get creative first, andstart to fix the first wing which I had started. I have attached some pictures of this fix, not necesserily in order. Hinge blocks in the wing still to be added. The whole flap is still in one piece and still have to double check the locations of each hinge. Two hinges for each flap section. I decided to go the TF way.

Still more work need to be done, but I'm not in a rush. I took these pictures for the reason that maybe they might help others. Some of the original sheeting on the flap was replaced, but I kept the ribs easier to follow. I have added blocks on each end of where I feel the Roberts hinges should be, I also added extra blocks in case. A lot of carving and sanding and fitting. Once I seperate the flaps, I'll glue ply at each end. For the pin to move freely inside the other end, I'll follow the TF, to cut an oval shaped hole for the pin to move freely. Hope it works. The next step is to start cutting and shaping. I followed the lines from a Corsair plans, top and bottom of the wing. Some shaping of the wing still need to be done.
Will welcome any comments.

Craig-RCU

Looking good Garthwood! Looks like the flaps are fitting the wing nicly in the last two pictures.

Garthwood

Craig-RCU ..............Many thanks for your nice comments and for your past advice.

Craig-RCU

Some kind soul left some prints of in-flight photos of my Corsair at the Minnesota, Tri-valley club field-house. I scanned the prints, but they are a bit degraded from the process. If anyone knows who took the photos, please let me know. I'd much appreciate having a copy of the the original digital images. Thanks, Craig.

Garthwood

Wow..............I like these pictures, shows the flaps quite well.

God helps those who help themselves. I've seen this quotation in one of your threads, cannot remember where.

My point.....................I don't remember if you ever posted any pictures of how you came about to construct the "web" between the mid flap and inner flap. I thought I've seen it somewhere, somebody used ducting metal sheeting. It is thinner and probably stronger.
Can you tell me what method you used please ?.

Craig-RCU

Thanks G, I posted this information in the KMP Corsair thread that should answer your questions. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7999670 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8002566

Garthwood

Thanks Craig.............I'll check it out.

Garthwood

Craig................(H9 Corsair) Before I post some more pictures I would like to know if it is OK with this thread. The pictures are of the progress of the hinging of the outboard and mid flaps. Just want to know if this hinging looks OK to you. I have checked out your post in reference to the technique of your int. web attachment.

Craig-RCU

Sure, don't hesitate to ask questions or post pictures.

Garthwood

Hi Craig..............Robarts steel pin hinges are not glued in yet. What's the sequence ?. I have not completed the inner flap hinge location yet.
Thanks.

Garthwood

Craig, Forgot to ask. When the flaps are fully deployed, do you have that gap that you see in the last picture ?. It's unavoidable. The mid and outer flap are moving freely. The outer flap hinges are 1" from the edge, while the mid flap is 1/2" from the edge. I'll probably be at 1" for the inboard flap.

Craig-RCU

If by sequence you mean what sequence to glue in the hinges, I did a final "dry fit" of the hinges and the completed (interflap web and linking pins too), monokoted flaps, taped the flaps in position while the aileron servoes were powered up to keep the outer flap in line with the ailerons in there "flight trimmed" position, made sure the hinges were positioned correctly and then superglued all the hinges in place. I believe I started the gluing from outboard to inboard, but the sequence probably doesn't matter as long as you've got everything taped in position well before you start gluing.

The gap between the flap and wing looks about right and similar to mine. All these last pictures that you posted look like your on the right track. I would keep the outermost hinge on the inboard flap at 1/2" from the edge just like the central flap hinges. This will keep the adjacent ends of the inner and center flaps lined up better at full flaps. This isn't critical for the flaps to work, so if you have your hinge blocks optimized for mounting the hinge at 1" on the inner flap, it wouldn't be worth ripping apart your flap to add a mounting block 1/2" fom the end.

Have you thought about where you are going to mount the flap servos and horns? I'd recommend mounting the servo inboard of the wheel wells and using the internal servo horn method of the TF P-47 since your hinges are positioned like the TF P-47. I mounted my servo outboard of the wheel well so I could use a single pushrod to link the outer andcenter flaps together because I'd never used the TF Corsair pin-linking method before and feared too much slop if I mounted the pushrod to only one flap. My worries were unfounded. The pin-links between the flaps are slop-free.

Your flap hinges look very uniformly mounted. Did you use a jig to drill the holes? If so, a picture of the jig held in position on the wing and flaps would be ineresting for people to see.

Garthwood

Craig.................thanks for your comments, very interesting. It's a bit late and I'm going over your comments again sometimes to-morrow. I will also post a picture of the jig. A combination from the TF and yours, but placed the tubing to the TF, moved over from your picture. Will post a picture to-morrow. And yes, this should help others too. I have not started on the second wing yet. I started this project a long time ago, but I wanted to think a bit deeper on this one. Thanks for your help again. Your pictures and illustrations helped me a lot.

Garthwood

Craig...........Pictures of the jig positioned. Similarity between your jig and TF. Marking first where the holes are to be drilled. I have used a K&S 5/32"nd. aluminum tubing glued on to a jig cut out from a/c ply. A Higley long 1/8" drill bit used to drill the holes, important to mark with tape the depth. I've used the same jig to drill both the TE of the wing, and the LE of the flap, very similar to the TF47 idea. Last picture is for the TE of the wing. (Bottom of the wing). Not sure if it will work for your scale method. I did not have to cut into the LE of the flap.

I am not sure where I'll be placing the flap servo. I know for sure that I'll be using one servo in each wing. I thought I might place the servo near the wing root to activate the inboard flap, perhaps mid way. I can't at this moment figure out the geometry of the end result, how this is going to effect the inner flap and if there will be any binding.

Your comments are welcome. Thanks.

Garthwood

Craig.............further to my post # 138, after drilling the holes for the hinges in the TE of the wing, I inserted and glued a piece of K&S 5/32nd. tubing I thought this would help for quick and positive angle of the hinges. So far I only glued this tubing for the wing's LE. This idea of the tubing only came to mind at the time of getting the right angle. For the final glueing I'll be using either epoxy or Gorilla glue. Gorilla glue might be better as it seals and expands.

Garthwood

Craig RCU...............progress picture of the flaps. Just need to figure out where to put the servo. No much room inboard the wheel wells, might have to settle for a mini servo. What torque are your servos ?. I was planning to use a Futaba 9202 servos (have them) and locate them to operate from the outbaord flap. Is this a good idea ?. Also not sure about the kind of horn to use at the flap leading edge. Any comments ?.

Craig-RCU

Your flaps are looking very good! The pictures of the drill jig look like they are right out of a Top Flite manual. It shouldn't really matter whether you put the flap servo inboard or outboard of the wheel wells. About the only advantage to inboard are shorter servo leads. I used standard Futaba servos on the flaps. They have about 42in/oz of torque. The TF P-47 uses a 1/16" ply servo horn mounted on the leading edge of the flap. You could just cut a 1/16" wide vertical slot in the flap L.E. and glue in the horn. The only thing to be careful of is make sure that the servo horn has clearance as it pulls into the wing. Ummm, the full scale Corsair doesn't have an inter-flap web between the center and outer flap because that is where the wing folds. So, you have an excuse to save yourself some labor on the other set of flaps on the right wing.

Garthwood

Craig..............thanks for your nice comments. Regarding the web flap between the outer and mid, you are right. I thought if I'm able to have a web flap between these two flaps, there won't be any slop. I also have a wire in between. The other thing it's already glued in, although it is only a matter of cutting the web out and just have the piece of wire. But thanks for bringing that up.

About the horn on the flap LE, I'll make one out of a piece of ply. Where should the pivot point be ?.

Craig-RCU

Since you have hinged your flaps like the TF P-47, your horn on the flap should have its pivot point in the same position relative to the leading edge of the flap as the TF P-47's [which is slightly ahead of the leading edge of the flaps and slightly above the chord-line of the flaps as illustrated on pg. 39 of the TF 60 size GE (gold edition) P-47]. The TF P-47 flap horn pivot point is in the position that maximises mechanical advantage of the mechanism's geometry for holding the flaps in position throughout their full range of movement. Dry fit everything together before you glue the flap horn in place so that you are sure that the horn does not interfere with the wing's fairing above the flaps as the flaps are retracted.

Garthwood

Craig..............Thank you for your detailed explanation.

Garthwood

Craig.............I'm adding some more pictures of the H9 Corsair flaps. First picture where the flap servo is installed. Last picture bottom of wing with flaps deflected. The deflection is quite good with no binding, it's in the area of 60+ degrees. A long servo arm was required to match the Robart horn. I'm quite pleased with the outcome. I hope they'll work in the air. I opted for the Futaba 9202 servo for the flaps. They should be able to hold out. Hardware is 4-40. The horn for the moving surface is in line with the hinges, mabe 1/8 to 1/16 forward. The inter-webs and wire are doing the job. Thanks for your help and advice. The second wing should be much faster. I'm taking the same route, a mirror of the left wing.

Craig-RCU

Everything's looking good! Glad to hear that you're happy and that I was able to help out. Don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions and keep us updated with your progress.