v6goose

*bump*

Flight 21

Hey Craig,

Looking great. Where did you get your pilot? Thanks...

john

Craig-RCU

Thanks, John. I went with the 1/9 US WWII Pilot by Hangar 9.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN8315 H9 makes 1/7 and 1/9 scale US WWII pilots. I calculated the H9 Corsair fuselage is roughly 1/7.75 scale. Even though 1/7.75 is closer to 1/7 than is 1/9, I went with the 1/9 scale because that size H9 pilot seemed to match pilot size in full scale Corsair photos better. I don't know why that is. Maybe the H9 1/9 scale pilot is actually bigger than 1/9 scale, or the photos of full scale Corsairs that I used for reference had shorter than average pilots piloting them.

Flight 21

Thanks for the info Craig. Yes I agree that his size looks about right, and according to my literature he sits at the correct height too. Yoiu also gave him quite a nice paint job!

On another note, is that a TT prop hub and a 3-blade prop? If so, where did you find it? And what prop/engine combo are you using? My apologies if you have already been through this somewhere else in the thread. Thanks again...

john

Craig-RCU

Thanks again John. I'm using a Super Tigre G-90 with a pits muffler turning a 14-6 2 blade Master Airscrew. The spinner is a Tru Turn 1 1/4" hub that I got from my local hobby store. They didn't have the flanged hub in stock at the time, so I bought the unflanged version and added a flange with layers of aluminum tape. Tower hobbies has this hub too. Both the flanged and unflanged versions of the 1 1/4" seem to be in stock at the moment.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...+hub&search=Go

Flight 21

Great Craig thanks. I had looked on Tower but missed them. Just the right monster...

Easy Flier

My Feedback: (7)

Craig,
I'll be starting on mine when I get all parts and do flaps. I haven't decided on engine yet and see that you use the Supre Tigre 90.I have a spare one but wanted to go with gas. How doe the ST90 perform on yours??
Thanks for the great flap details
JT

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Check these out if you're looking for gas. The RCGF engines are excellent motors w/ great quality and low prices. The 20cc side carb is a perfect match. Got one in my Corsair and P-47. Here is the name of the official US distributer aerovate engines. Shane

v6goose

Hey Viper...

What Corsair did you put the Aerovate in?

Cheers

Goose

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Goose,
The H9 Corsair. I have only dry fitted it as I'm in the process of starting to remove all covering and glassing it before final install. It fits nicely inside the cowl with minimal cutting other than for the muffler and a hole for the carb, which doesn't stick out I just make a hole for air flow as I will add a venture later as well.

Shane

v6goose

Aha... that is very interesting.

I am [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8454945/anchors_9202680/mpage_7/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9202680]bashing[/link] my H9 and only recently started looking for a gas solution and one that might throw a nice big 3 bladed prop when I discovered the Aerovate.

Hmmm... just realised it is twice the weight of the OS 75AX. Mine flew really well with an OS 61FX...

Keep us up to date mate...

Cheers

Goose

Craig-RCU

Great, be sure to post some pictures in this thread or a link to your own thread if you star one. I'll be glad to offer some advice if you need any. There is a flight video in post #38 if you weren't already aware. The G-90 gives plenty of power to haul my H9 Corsair around and has been a very reliable runner. I use a 14-6 for vertical performance and a 14-7 prop for speed. I'm using a Slimline Pits muffler. I found that this muffler, which is made for the G-90, needed one of the exhaust stacks plugged to produce enough back pressure for the fuel tank and reliable running. The exhaust stack pointed right at the wing, so I eventually cut off both stacks and JB Welded them closed and JB Welded on a new stack that is angled aft about 30 degrees at the 6:00 low position. This keeps the plane much cleaner. I found that the stock muffler of the G-90 extended out as far as it would go seemed to produce more power (I don't remember the statistics offhand) than the Pitts muffler, so that might be an excuse to save the G-90 for a project that doesn't have a cowl that the stock muffler won't fit into, if you are looking for an excuse. Hope this helps you out.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

The Aerovate engine does weigh in at around 38oz, actually lighter than most other engines in its class. I sheeted the vert and horz stabs on the H9 P-47 and the CG was perfect with the ign between the standoffs and the batts on the CG. I will be doing the same for the Corsair and hopefully it will have the same results. I like them with a tad bit of weight in them anyway, helps stabilize the tail waggle.

The other day I got the urge to fly in again before tearing into it. We just moved from CO and I really wanted to see how the Saito1.25 runs here @3500' elv., that and I haven't flown it in a few months. I was at about 5600' before. I was using a MA15X7 3bld prop and is was very good for scale speeds at the higher alt. and a 16X8APC for more speed. Well the 3bld here is actually faster than the 2bld prop was there. And it sounds really cool on high speed passes. Going to tune the motor a little and throw the 2bld on for the last run and see what it will do. Anyway here's the video, my 9yr old daughter toughed out the cold wind and my 21yr old son sat in the van cause he was cold. Guess if I put a Nintendo controller on it he would've helped. LOL

[link]http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/H9-Corsair-Saito1-25-MA15X7-3-b[/link]


Shane

v6goose

Hey Viper...

Ha! You just swayed me back the other way to be on the pro side of the Aerovate fence... [:'(]

Have you flown the P47? Pics? Video?

Yeah, kids eh... Nuff said.

Cheers

Goose

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Goose, videos I do have.. Here are a couple for ya.

Enjoy,

[link]http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/H9-P-47-New-RCGF-20cc-Engine-te[/link] First flight with motor.

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVF3NVNMZe0[/link]

Shane

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

If you do decide to go the RCGF route, be sure to go through Aerovate. They don't get the same motors as the ones being sold here on RCU or ebay. Henry aka "Piston" works with the factory to develop motors to meet his specifications and his warranty program is top notch. Bill Jensen does his warranty work and he is top notch. He literally tests his motors to the point of destroying them to be sure they are up to his standards. Every motor I got from him has been run and tested prior to shipping as well.

Shane

Dangaras

Garthwood,

I am definitely late arriving at this party, but Iam here and have questions about this drillingjig. My flaps will be structurally very similar to yours, Ihave already got the left wing all shaped and all Ineed to do is mount them. My questions are:

1. Can you post a flat picture of the jig with a ruler next to it so Ican get a feel for the angles?
2. how did you cut the slots in the inner &mid flap to mount the web so they were clean? Iplan to make my web out of a pop can glued to a piece of flat, clear plastic then shape as required.
3. Did your link pins work out ok? Did they slide only in and out of the sides or did they alos move along the plane of the flaps? Iam not sure but Imight use some brass tube inserted inside a larger diameter brass tube to allow them to slide with some slop to avoid binding.

Iplan to use Craig's internal T-rod idea to keep the lower winf profile clean. Still trying to decide if a 2.7kg-cm mini servo will do the job or whether Ineed a standard sized 6kg-cm servo, what have you guys used and how do you find the operation?

Garthwood

Craig rcu had started a thread on the "H9 F4u Corsair adding flaps" on RCU and it helped me to modify this Corsair. I also posted some pictures of my modification. Here's some pictures. For my flaps I used Futaba 9202. I hope the attached pictures will be of help.
For flap web I used thin stainless aluminum (Home Depot). I used a 4-40 wire for pin. I decided to make two webs to join outer/to middle/to inboard flap. The most important to have a web is the mid-to-inner. Important to note the location of the Robart pin hinges, they have to be even. My mid flap Robart pin hing is 1/2" distance from the edges for a better geometry. The inboard are also 1/2" from the edge. The Outer flap Robart hinges are at 1"from inner and outer edges. You have to test before you permanently glue in the hinges. Craig had his mid flap pushrod almost as scale. He explains how he did his. I took the different route as the Top Flite.
At first is like trial and error so don't rush the job, take pictures and make drawings. For your web cut-out slit, you might have to clean out some of the flap's ribs otherwise the web/wire will bind, and that is done by removing some balsa sheating and replace it again, some restructering have to be corrected inside the flap. The web/wire should be slightly bent to take the curve down shape of the flap. One side of the web and pin should be glued in. The metal web should be glued in to the mid flap and the pins should be glued in to the outer flap and the inboard flap. There should be a slit for the pins and another longer slit for the web........there should be no binding.
Hope this will help.

Charles.

Dangaras

Charles,

thanx for the details. You have definitely helped me with the Inter-web. Ithink I will stay scale with the inner web only.

What Iwas trying to figure out was the angle of the tube to the flap lower surface as shown in the attached picture. Since the original picture is not of the jig face on, Ican't be sure Iam measuring the angle correctly.

Garthwood

DANAGARAS..................I used the same idea as the TOPFLITE Corser Robart hinge point operation but the P47 jig idea (not quite similar).
The jig is to be used for the LE of the flaps and the TE of the wings. This was a modification, the angle might be different than yours.

Charles.

Dangaras

Charles,

my wing & flaps have turned out looking almost exactly like yours. I guess I will figure out the drilling jig on my own for now.

I was surprised by just how much d*cking around I had to do with all the, cutting, gluing, sanding, fitting, swearing & repeating that has been done in the last 2 weeks.

Once I get this set of flaps done, I will start & document the left wing.

Thanx...

Garthwood

Dangaras....glad that it's working out for you. Yes, it is a lot of work. I documented mine from the beginning, that way when I came to work on the second wing all I had to do is refer to my pictures and drawings. But I guess everyone has his own method.

Charles.

Dangaras

Charles,

the messing with the flaps &getting the flap leaging edge compound curves just right frustrated me the most. Imeaseured everything &measured again 3 or 4 times, built up the front edges separately, then sanded &then glued and still Ihad "rework".

Ithink Iwill make the flap LE out of a solid piece this time, sand &cut &sand until Iget it to fit under the wing TE perfectly &then cut the flaps apart. Then Ican cut the flaps down as necessary to put the ply endcaps on. Ithink documenting the second build and posting on RCcanada will be of more use to those crazy enough to follow along..

Thanx.

Garthwood

More pictures when I modified my flaps. I started first building up a one piece flap to take the shape of the inverted gull. Only then you should cut the three flaps. After cutting you then add a/c plywood end caps to the sides and start shaping. This is the best method that I found that worked best for me. I hope the pictures will help. It's best to document first and post, so you'll get additional help and ideas from other builders.

Dangaras

Charles,

I agree, this is the best route.. The shaping in one piece then cutting. Ididn't have the thick balsa sheet when Istarted so Iused 1/4 strips and that was the mistake. Turned out ok and Iam going to stop with at the point where Iam ready to start mounting hinges on this wing and start the other one to get them both to the same point.

Once there, Iwill work the inter-web, flap pins, hinge positions, servo &push rod location &then covering &permanent mounting. Then I plan to put two retract servos in to drive each retract, the stock linkage is too finnicky if there is ever a rough landing.. Should be ready to fly for summer.

Lucky for me Ihave a spare wing to work on while my stock wing remains unchanged for flying until Iget this one completely finished.

Thanx for all the help with this.