Rip n Bank

OK, finished my review of the build thread on the original version of this plane. Whew, 30 pages!

I've cut and pasted those notes that I found applicable, or useful, for the new P-51 build, into a 3-page Word doc.

While there were a bizillion posts on these following topics, I did NOT include any info on: gas engines or their props (I bought a Saito 220), or replacing/upgrading the original 'Stang's wimpy landing gear (the new one looks plenty robust, though I'm still curious about the Version 2 gear rails).

RCU posts and PM don't support attaching a Word doc. If you want me to "regular email" you a copy, send me a PM with your real email address, and I'll use my Outlook Express to send you a copy. Promise not to sell your email address to a SPAMMER, if you do the same!

Cheers!

Bo

Airnondas

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Guys

For anyone who wants to install the Saito 220 in the new Mustang, you do not have to remove the blind nuts.

All you do is slot the holes on the engine mount so that the mount can slide a bit and the 220 will fit in perfect.

Take a look.

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Airnondas

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

How come your "new" Mustang has a red hose and an aluminum spinner and my "newer" Mustang has a yellow nose and a yellow spinner?

Maybe mine is newer than yours?

BTW, I'd put flat washers and lock washers on those bolts, plus a little thread locker on the bolt threads.

Airnondas

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Dick

First I never said that this was "my new" Mustang. I said if anyone wanted to install the 220 Saito in "the new Mustang" this was a easy method.

These pictures were taken from the original Mustang 1.50 thread that I posted a reply to, August 8, 2005 .

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86...tm.htm#3258610

The washer were not added so you can see the slotting of the mounts they are to be added later.

I am sorry If I caused any confusion.

I am looking forward to your review of the new Mustang.

Thanks
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Airnondas

Rip n Bank

How are the new P-51 builds going lately?

What with other projects and a hard winter here in Colorado (no urgency to finish and fly), mine is proceeding quite slow.

Just finished my gas tank upgrade (Stock 22oz > World Models 27 oz; easy fit with room for foam), remote fill valve and upgraded throttle servo linkage.

Starting on the wing and control surfaces next; had been waiting for my LHS to get in the backordered giant scale control horns I'll use instead of the stock ones.

Hope to make significant progress this 3-day weekend!

Bo

reincarnate

Hey Rip. I've hit a wall. Can't seem to find exhaust system to work with the 26GT I installed. Really pi**ing me off too. I hate to think about going to a different engine since I've already got everything set up for this, but after two Bisson mufflers tried, I still have no exhaust. Giving me a chance to go back through everything I've already done and check I guess, but this Evo has been a hemorrhoid since I brought it home.

Rip n Bank

Hey Rein',

Real sorry to hear about your engine problems! That can sure take the wind out of your sail on a project...

Haven't started up the 220, yet, much less broken it in. The Pitts-style muffler from Keleo doesn't arrive for another 3-4 weeks. I'll probably start breaking it in soon on the engine stand with the stock muffler in the meantime, but right now, it's 3 degrees F. outside, so I'll just keep building!

Hope to complete the wing this weekend, then I'll get started on the tail feathers.

Good luck!

Bo

sherriffg1

I am going to fit a ryobi 31cc gas engine in my p51 should fit in niceley. Dave

Rip n Bank

Getting ready to mount the flaps. I'm pretty concerned by how loosely the stock, and "identical" Robart flap hinges fit in the pre-drilled wing and flap holes.

I tried the largest Robart version (#310), which recommends a 3/16" hole, and they are loose, also. Seriously, they rattle around in the holes!

Seems H9 is drilling 1/4" holes for their flap hinges, which is way too big. Flaps have the highest loads on them of all moving surfaces, and I just don't trust that 30 minute epoxy, even if using serious quantities in the holes, will keep them attached to the wing!

Is anyone else that is building this bird concerned about this?

Bo

1080tommy

I just installed the flaps a couple of days ago and they fit into the holes pretty snug. However, the left flap does not line up very well with the aileron. I've tried to adjust the length of the hinges and it seems that the flap and aileron will be slightly off. I checked closely and niether surface seems warped. I do not think it is enough to upset the fight characteristics at all. Other then that the build is going well so far. Good luck with the flaps I hope you find a good solution.

Tom

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

The flaps and ailerons on my original H9 150 size P51 did not line up well at all- when the outboard end of the LH aileron is in line with the wing tip, the inboard end of the aileron is above the outboard end of the flap when the inboard end of the flap is lined up with the inboard end of the wing - this is reversed on the RH aileron. When I checked the amount of washout at the wing tips the LH wing has about 1 1/2 deg of wash out, (good) while the RH wing seems to have a little wash in, (bad). I have checked and double checked this but it still gives me the same result - as I have yet to fly this bird I am very concerned about tip stall on the RH wing. Horizon hobby just say to twist the wing in the appropriate direction while applying heat to the covering. As the wing is sheeted with at least 1/16, probably 3/32 balsa this correction method is all but impossible. Anyone out there have the same problem?

reincarnate

Just finished up tonight setting up all surfaces and throws. Fortunately, my wing lines up staight across with no differnce in flap/elevator lines. Also my flap hinges were so tight, I was concerned about forcing too much epoxy off the wings as they were inserted. I can't imagine H9 having this much inconsistancy in their product. I'm having major problems with my engine/exhaust combo, so I've been able to spend a lot of extra time going back over things. My only problem so far is that the wing does not want to fit in the saddle. Won' slide all the way foreward, and won't seat in the back. Also minor unhappyness about wing scoop lines. Large gap and sits higher than the airframe behind it.
Spitpilot.... How did you check the washout?

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

I use the H9 digital throw/incidence meter - I set it up at the inboard end of the flap at '0' deg and then move it to the outboard end of the aileron and check the reading - it should be a negative angle, wash out, of 1 to 1 1/2 deg. One wing was around 1 1/2 deg wash out while the other was plus 1 deg, wash in, which is not good and will lead to tip stall.
John.

san26141

Kinda new to all this but I don't fully understand what has been talkled about in the last few posts....What is "Wash In" and "Wash Out"?
D

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

D,
Here goes with an explanation - hope it is clear. 'wash out' and 'wash in' is the difference between the angle of incidence at the wing root and wing tip. To prevent the wing tip stalling first, causing the airplane to roll off during a maneuver such as a slow turn or steep slow climb, it is desired that the angle of incidence at the wing tip be less than that at the wing root - this is 'wash out', and is a desirable condition - typically on a warbird this is in the order of 1-1 1/2 degrees. 'Wash in' is the condition where the angle of incidence at the wing tip is greater than that at the wing root, an undesirable condition which can result in an unexpected roll off when making a turn, say on final, at what would normally be an acceptable speed with obviously disastrous results. Hope this helps - I had a small electric FW190 which did this when I turned too sharp and slow resulting in a snap roll and crashed at the end of the runway.

solarmusic

My Feedback: (1)

Or in simple terms, the wing is twisted a little so that the tips are pointing down a degree or two, not letting the wing tip rise to create a stall. Its like holding your hand out the car window. Raise the front of your hand and off you go, keep it level or slightly down.. you are stable.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

You got it, summarized it very well but the hand out of the car window however is not a really true analogy.
John.

solarmusic

My Feedback: (1)

Just as long as the "Newbie" gets it.

dgliderguy

Good read on the subject of washout:

http://www.scalesoaring.co.uk//Articles/Articles/Washout/What'sWashout.htm

san26141

Thanks for all the info....

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

Checking into this thread....have a feeling its going to turn into a long one.

reincarnate

Got my own custom gun ports built and installed last night. Will post pics when the camera recharges. Pilot is painted and installed. Used H9's WWII 1/5 scale, cut down to fit. Had the 1/6 scale and just looked wrong, so I went bigger. I like to be able to see my pilot, and it really doesn't look too bad from my opinion. Had trouble with gas engine/muffler combo (see earlier posts) so I'm at a halt there. Horizon actually said they don't have and can't suggest an exhaust to fit in the cowl with recommended Evo gas engines on this plane(without major mods). Anyone thinking of using the Evo engines on their build may want to keep this in mind.

reincarnate

Got firewall rework all completed to install Evo gas engine and bisson wrap muffler. Ended up not being as bad as I thought. Only took 2 hours from layout to fuel-proofing. Better than chopping up the can like I thought I may have to do. The guns aren't perfect, but from a normal distance they look OK. Not planning on entering any contests with her anyway. Just wanted the right look.

dgliderguy

Reincarnate,

That's it? Looks like pretty minor surgery to me! Not bad at all! I will order the Evolution wrap-around Pitts muffler to go with my Evo 35GT. Thanks so much for being on the front line on this matter.

Guns look good, too. Nice airbrush work.

d.

solarmusic

My Feedback: (1)

Would another solution be to simply add a 1/4" balsa ring to the front of the cowl and just blend it in, covering it with a little yellow film? I didn't have that problem with the ST 2300. But, it looks like the only retract servos that will work are the JR high torks. I tried 2 new Hitecs ( regular retract servos ) and they didn't have nearly enough muscle.