WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

has anyone out there , built and flown this aircraft?
have plans, need feedback.

thanks


dan

t_burley

My Feedback: (59)

here is some...........

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...071&forumid=34]

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I built it to the primer stage but sold it before flying. I would be glad to answer any questions I can concerning construction.

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

hi chad, i talked last with you on rconline. I AM thinking of
building the mark sharp semi scale typhoon instead. Quicker
build , and at 7 -8 lbs, i can fly it with a .46 or a .61 . The only
prob is having the parts cut . THE taylor is mabey too expensive
for me, and i think you really need a .120 to fly it at 13 lbs.(or more) . i think lazor works in texas might be good, but one kit cutter wanted to charge me 300.00 for the semi typhoon. FORGETABOUT IT !!! THE BRYANT TYPHOON, could also be a choice at 61 inches, but its the kit cutting thing with that one too.


if you know of any reasonable kit cutters, let me know.
lazor works will cut the wing ribs and formers at a good price.



have a goody



dan

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Dan,
I think a 90 2-stroke or 1.20 4-stroke is the way to go on the taylor typhoon. Holman offers laser cut parts for it and accesories...from his website:
HAWKER TYPHOON 70" PLAN $40.00, ACCESSORY PACKAGE OF COWL, CANOPY AND SPINNER $85.00,
LASER CUT PARTS $90.00

awood12345

My dad absolutly loves typhoons and has built three (small medium large.

Here is the link:

http://corsairmfc.tripod.com

Go to pictures section, then typhoon and there is info there. I don't know what plans it was scaled from but thought it might help. Can post more info tommorrow.

Alan

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I don't think you can do much better for price than what Holman offers. His laser cutting is top quality also. If built light the Taylor Typhoon will fly with a .90 two or four stroke just fine. I don't know much about the Bryant plans and I know nothing of the Mark Sharp, sorry.

julianaughton

I built it and have flown it 4 or 5 times. Flies very well with no bad habits. It has a very short nose and took nearly3 pounds of lead to balance. total weight was about 16.5 lbs. I was flying with an OS 1.08FSR, but am in the process of installing a Moki 1.35.

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

Still plugging away at this one!! maybe a little over halfway done. Putting a GCBM 25cc Homelite conversion in the front. Didn't want to add the 1-3 lbs of lead. hope to have it paintable by fall.
Chris

prangbod

Help Ive been building that boodly tiffi for about two years + im about where you are in this picture. but got to the flaps and well it all stopped there really, I gave up and built some other models now im looking at somthing similar to this picture, I need advice.

my first conceren is those flaps, they will not go back flush with the bay. I was thinking of building another wing, but this would be the 4th time ive built the wing. i think that when i cut the tabs off i cant have done it well enougth or the wooden seat has warped a tad on one wing they sit ok but i just cant get the moment to pull them all the way up flush, and im not into stressing servos.

The wings ok one wings a tiny bit wisted now. i think but i can flatten that out when i clad it, I might have to make the wing again having learnt my lessons from the pervious. Ie clad the top of the outer wings while the tabs are still on, in order to avoid warps and twists,

if you can go through your order and methods i would really apperciate it.

Once those flaps are done it a straight run home just wod woork, wheels are in tail wheel done etc.

any advice would be apperciated

oh and i see you have the bubble canopy, BT doesnt do one so i was wondering where to get it

olly

SF

Hi
So are the bt plans for the 73 inch good. Has any one got any complaints such as they won't do again if not why not. I plan to get a set of plans for my dad for christmas but don't want to give him a set that will give him a headache over. If the there are a better set of plans out there around the same size or a bit bigger could some one let me know.

Cheers

SF

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

SF,
I built the Taylor Typhoon about 3 years ago so I don't remember the details, but I do remember that I enjoyed the build immensely. I recall the part fit to be excellent and the scale outline is very good. I would build another Taylor design without hesitation.
Chuck

Stumps

I've built from BT plans and I am currently finishing off his 70in Hurricane. I also have several other plans(both spits and the harvard) by him although I've not seen the typhoon. So, based on those I've got they're fantastic ~ very well drawn and the parts go together with no errors. IMHO BT's the master…

Stumps

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

Well, the Typhoon in the above picture was completed. But never flew. My first time scratch building, I over built (overweight). The biggest piece of advice I can give is FOLLOW THE PLANS!!!!

AS far as your issue with the flaps not sitting flush with the underside of the wing. I'd hazard a guess that all the ribs were not taken down to the same line (level) and now one or more is sitting proud. That's just a guess from 4000 miles away, seeing it in person would probably give the opportunity to see exactly what the issue is.

There is a web forum strictly for scale builders [link]http://www.rcscalebuilder.com[/link] Look under Brian Taylor designs and look for the BT Typhoon. A gent in the UK just flew his Tiffie recently. I'm sure he'd be glad to help you out, his user name is davidq.

The bubble canopy I used is from a Top Flite Sea Fury (they are the same scale), I also used the cockpit kit (I wouldn't recommend it, you'll be disappointed).

BTW, I am currently in the process of building Typhoon #2. Brian Taylor plans are very good, very scale just not for a beginner in scratch building. I HIGHLY recommend getting the short kit from Bob Holman (it's only $90!!) and the proper retracts from Unitracts. Beleive me, this will save you ALOT of grief!! While you're at RCSCALEBUILDER check out the "SHOW YOUR STUFF" section and you will see my Typhoon complete.

Good luck on the Tiffie!!! IMHO, they are not modelled enough!!

Chris

prangbod

I went home ant put my tiffie togather after several years sitting around, Some wing ribs are bashed but i can fix that. I put the wheels down put it on the table and just thought wow, this things great. It has been the first full scale model ive built, getting the falps spot on has been my only real challenge so far. Its not the plan its just me, four peice split flaps are a bit of a handfull i find.

When i built the wing i didnt know you get parts cut so its all hand cut, its not a crips as a cnc cut wing. but clad it will be true and look just as good. (it has a little bit of the russian jet fighter air to it)

i stripped back the flap bays sanded everything flatt, and ill be building some new flaps, ive seen them done two ways, one is the way on the plan the other is to use ply laminated with lytho and ribs left exposed, i quite like the lytho idea, they sit but there not quite perfect, about 1-2mm gap. I was thinking of putting a magnetic strip in to hold them up.

The only place we ever realy deviated from the pans were servo placement, i hate bellcranks, so we have uped the servo count a bit.

I was thinking of remaking the tail surfaces from blue or white foam to keep the tail light, what do you think.

I should get it out at about 13 pounds

Cheers for the help

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

I used servos for my flaps on my first Typhoon. Don't forget you'll be placing 4 servos aft of the CofG on an aircraft that is very sensitive to weight aft of the CofG. I'm using the bellcrank method on my second Typhoon. I wouldn't use minis or micros.

As far as foam. Foam is usually sheeted or covered with fibre glass and epoxy for strength, right?? So are you saving any weight compared to contest grade balsa as Brian specifies???

Chris

prangbod

Servos, i was hopeing to use two and run a y to the horns, i thought that since there only an inch or so from the cg it might not be so critical, ive got two aeron sevos rwo that makes 4 in the wing, is this gonna be trouble?

still weghing up the differnces between a white foam expoxy clad tail. or wood.

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

I had 8 servos in my wing, 2 for ailerons, 4 for flaps, 1 for inner gear doors and 1 for bomb drop. You would be surprised how quickly 7 standard and 1 mini servo add up the weight. When it was complete, my Typhoon was 4 pounds overweight and the CofG was so far aft it needed another 4 pounds to bring it within range.

Tiffie #2 will have bellcranks for ailerons and flaps, contest grade balsa aft of the wing and the proper Unitracts retracts (mechanical). There is nothing worse than working close to 8 years on a project and never flying it because you'd rather see it in one whole piece (cause you can use the important parts again) than smashed into a bazillion pieces.

One thing I learned on my first scratch build, don't compromise and don't deviate from the plans (too much).

Chris

gblas777

My Feedback: (13)

here is a pic of my tiffie. havent had a chance to fly it yet. mine came in at 14lbs. and i have a saito 1.20on it. the best advice i can give on this one is keep the tail as light as possible!!!!!. i cant stress that enough. otherwise it is a fairly easy build

gene

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

Nice job Gene!! Let us know how you make out on the test flight!

I gonna try to add a few picks of mine here.

Chris

prangbod

Your typhoon looks great, Ive been giving your comments a lot of thought.

See i hate bellcranks true ive never lost a plane to bellcrank faliure but somehow slack always seems to seep into the system somewhere,

On this model you will need to run about two meters of wire down the wings to the bellcranks, this weighs about 1/4 what the extra two servos do true,

I have 7 servos in that wing 2 aleron 2 flap 2 retract 1 door servo. 5 of which are an inch aft of the cg fully loaded thats legs retracts wheels etc but un covered it ways in a 3 1/2 LBS out of plane thats spec weight is 13LBS

The tail is as specified.

Are we spliting hairs over an extra two servos, is it trully that critical?

I've always felt that the covering will be what makes the differnce.

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

The one thing you need to watch on the Typhoon is where and how much weight you add AFT of the CofG. Look on the plans where Brain has the balance point. Every ounce you add aft of the CofG you'll have to compensate for forward of it. What size\type of engine are you using?? If you're using a 4 stroke like Brian did, you have to add 1 lb of lead in the nose already.

I have a 25cc gas Homelite conversion engine in mine. Big, heavy, I figured I wouldn't have to worry about weight in the tail, so I used regular grade balsa. My CofG was 2 1/2" aft of the balance point!! I needed 4 lbs of lead to bring it close. Is 1 servo going to make that big of a deal.......probably not. Here's a thought, when you're ready to cover, assemble the plane, engine, servos, fuel tank, batteries, pilot, spinner EVERYTHING. Now where is your balance point?? It'll be easier to make those adjustments BEFORE you paint, than after and have to mess up a great paint job. Even if you balance it and after you paint, the CofG is far forward, you've got gobs of room to move aft. Heck, you'd probably only have to move the battery pack back 1/8"

prangbod

Yeah your right. Definatly get that cg right before covering.

Im still on the servo thing, Ive worked out that 4 servos weghing 80g in total placed 1" aft of the CG will need to be compenstaed for with 24g in the nose. Thats not too bad, 24g more than you should have but still

Its weght in the tail thats gonna be the killer, every G in the tail will need 4-5 in the nose this is where things go really wrong. That tail must stay feather light. What worries me is scale coverings glassfibre layers of primer, copit detail etc.

I my expirence Glass fiber covering tends to be heavy or weak unless on foam. I was thinking of covering aft of the wing a slightly differnt way,

Out of all the covering ive used id still say the old dope and tissue was the lightest, maybe solarfilm coming very close. I was thinking that a way of keeping it light and still maintaining the scale pannel lines etc, would be to use lightweght paper heavier than tissue, cut it into the correct pannel lines because (the typhoon has long strips of pannel down the fuzz,) and use sanding sealer on it then useing much less primer on top.

Does that sound crazy to you?

How did you cover your typhoon?

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

I haven't ran across too many guys who use tissue and dope over here, either that or there just not saying they use it. Dope yes, not the tissue. Maybe it's a UK thing??

I used Super Coverite on the fuse and fibre glassed the wing on Tiffie #1. I'm going to use Super Coverite throughout on Typhoon #2. It goes on great and it hardly took any primer to fill the weave, less than the fibre glass I used in the wing. I used automotive filler primer and latex finishing coat. But this time I'm thinking of using exterior latex for primer and finishing coat too. Latex is nice to work with, no stinky fumes!!!

Chris

prangbod

Cheers guys, Im gonna bellcrank the flaps, and leave servos in for the alerons, just working through it. doing the flaps and the retracts, i used the unitracts ones on the plan, there nice but one side seems to have a tiny bit of slack in the up position.

The UC doors, i met somone a while ago flying this model, he had ripped his doors off because in the air they drove him nuts, kept blowing off. looking at my assembly there seems to be a loot of slack due the the pivot point. has anyone flown this tiffe and had better luck with the doors?

Ps whats supercoverite?