I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

I saw in another post, post one perhaps that you were using an o.s. .61 then all of a sudden a .91 . Which is it? The pictures of the engine appear to be an o.s. .61 sf ringed engine.
Luke, I myself just printed the templates that Kelsey_B drew up in cad and yes they are accurate and like you, I plan to build from scratch. My other question is this: did you use thinner sheeting on the aft end of the fuse (from the wings trailing edge back)? If not and all your servo's in the fuse are behind the firewall with the battery under the engine, did you require any led in the nose?

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Wow, would you believe I get email about this plane still? Sorry I do not answer, I've just got to many other things to do. Would you also believe that I'm still flying the Royal Corsair? I've converted it to electric, because in my opinion a Corsair either needs a radial gas or glow engine or electric, can't stand the sound of weed eaters, but that is just me.

I installed a Rimfire 120 electric motor with a Hobby Partz 100amp ESC spinning a 16-10 prop with a 6S 4400mAh pack. It was an easy conversion and I'll gladly post pictures if there is any interest. This plane flies so good, it's much better as an electric.

I took all the lead out of the nose and it was the exact weight of the 6S Lipo! So I was able to balance without lead, this is nice because with a gas engine you then have to add fuel to fly and that is much more weight.

Cloudy day today, but I'll post a video later, here are some pictures of my flights today...

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Luke,

Good to hear that she is still flying . Fellas the plane looks even better in person. I see your still out in Texas. Hope the family is doing well.

Take care,
Pete

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks Pete, we are having flying site issues with the Air Force, but other than that, Texas is pretty nice. Everything is going great, family is doing well. Hope all is going great with you, your family and your planes!

Luke

rwright142

I agree with you Luke - a great experience would be with a Corsair that not only looks good but sounds awesome. I saw a video once with one that had speakers in it and sounded like it had a P&W radial because they had some kind of an electronic sound system installed. The sound even varied with the throttle setting.
Anyway, can't wait to see/hear the video.

Best regards,
Richard

Wizard61

My Feedback: (7)

Luke,

That is still the best Corsair I have seen done on this site. It just looks right! Looking forward to the videos.

James

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Richard, I wish I could say I could afford the weight penalty for a sound system in my Royal Corsair, but it just would not be worth it unfortunately. I can make a nice sound by throttling back in a low dive down the runway, sounds pretty cool. Having a quieter plane is much more enjoyable to me, I don't miss the sound of the two stroke anyway!

Thanks James I really appreciate the compliment, the Royal has it's issues though, thanks to Richard and his thread! I never did like the canopy or the cowl, but when I first started construction of this plane it was never going to be anything other than a sport plane. It was through the encouragement of others in this thread that gave me the motivation to keep adding to it! In the air though, that is where this plane really shines and you are right, the design looks great too!

Luke

evarnad

Luke you mentioned your website and I even found a link to it but it don't work. I realise this is a very old thread but do you have a new website with the details of building this plane, I'd like to steal some of your great ideas.

Great looking Corsair by the way.
Thanks
Wayne

rwright142

Luke,
I hope you mean my posts helped! I have you to blame for me starting my Corsair Information Forum (CIF). You got me so dedicated to scale accuracy I strived to get as much information together in one place as I could. It's still up and running and has surpassed my expectations. In case anyone is interested, the Corsair Information Forum (it's a free forum) is located here:
f4ucorsair.freeforums.org
The value of RCUand the CIF is that several people went on to build some great Corsairs and most have you to thank.

Best regards my friend,
Richard

</snip></snip>

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Hi Wayne, no website and yes this is an old thread and project! What project are you working on? Not sure what I could help you with, there is so much good info on this and other sites, maybe if you were a little more specific I could help you out. Thanks for the compliment!



Richard you have helped me out, I don't always like to hear some things, but I guess it's because I was attached to this kit with to much nostalgia and it blinded me a bit. I started liking the outline of the kit better than the full scale Corsair! lol! I will probably never go to the fanatic level, but it's great info and your site has some good stuff.

Got 5 flights on the Corsair this weekend, here is a flight video, it was very windy and dark, but it's all I could get. Hope you all enjoy...



http://youtu.be/NTyzDDl72h0

rwright142

Nice flight, considering how windy it was!Loved the landing too. As always the plane looks great.

evarnad

Luke,
Thanks for the fast reply.
I am in the process of bashing a crashed ARF F4u and was just looking for ideas like the retract doors and operating linkage.
I have no where near the skills you have, hince the need for ideas and also being 66 years old and bad eye sight doesn't help either.

Thanks again
Wayne

scottrc

Luke,

Thanks for the update and videos. This project has been an inspiration to many of us.

Scott

Deaner777

Luke,

After reading your build of the Royal Corsair, It has inspired me to take on this build from plans. I started with the rear tail wheel, and it is almost complete. Surprisingly enough, it is turning out awesome! I can't wait to start in on the plane itself!

Dean

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks Richard, you have to learn to fly in the wind here, it's often 10 15mph when I fly.


Wayne, I'm re-posting everything I have on this build so that it will always be up. I will do that on another site, one with RC and Groups in the title! I'll post it in my blog, my alias over there is Dionysus. It will take me a little bit to get it all loaded, but I hope it helps with your project.


Thanks Scott, really appreciate that and you are very welcome. I really only finished this plane to the level I did because of all the encouragement I got on here!

Good luck to you Dean on your Royal project, post some pictures if you want and if you need any help on something, just ask.

I am almost done with my pilot figure. I vacuum formed him and then I actually stitched his uniform together with a sewing machine! I bought some wrestler action figures and used the head, the body was to roided out. Still need some goggles, but it looks pretty authentic from a short distance away. I'm showing the balsa molds I made so you can see that I did carve him, I used Robart hinge points for joints, so he can be articulated. I have his shoes and hands, but they are not attached yet. I also made the parachute harness and the seat belts, the buckles and latches are carved with a dremel out of thin fiberglass sheet.

Wildcard

Hey Luke,

What happen to Pappy? Didn't you make a mold that looked like him for your plane?

Brett

evarnad

Thanks Much
Love the pilot

Happy Holidays to you and yours.

Wayne

Me410

Dionysusbacchus

Fantastic work, beautiful plane.

A quick question if I may. You are using a two blade prop, I understand that the big electric motors ( Rimfire 120 ) can swing a near scale three bladed prop. Have you tried that? And if so, how did that work out?

Thanks
Tom

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks Tom! I did have a friend bring a 17" four bladed Vario Prop that he is going to use on his TF P-47, and we tested it on my Corsair and the 120 did fine with it. It was producing just 100 watts less than the two blade. I'll be testing two prop sizes, both three blade, and I'll post here with the results.

Brett, I still have the 1/6 Pappy figure, that is another project!

Thanks Wayne!

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Finished a set of drop tanks for the Corsair from my own molds, these are the drop ones so they are simple. I have a gas cap and all kinds of detail for the static ones, but these will be kept simple, although I try to hit the grass when I drop them with my luck they always find s stray rock or something in the grass!

Finishing the tanks was easy, I first match the paint as close as I could with Model Master enamels, had to mix yellow with white and a little black. For the weathering you want to use acrylics, this way you can use lots of water and it won't affect the finish. Dilute some black with lots of water, then with a sponge dampen the area around the gas cap. Tear a piece of paper towel and dip it into the diluted black paint, apply at the cap area and let it flow down the side of the tank. Practice a bit and you can get some realistic gas stains. Remember that tanks were filled and the gas spillage mixed with dirt in the air and exhaust residue then dried pretty quickly. Next I added some black pastel chalk to the corners and generally dirtied up the tank to make it look used. Add a final clear coat, if you are using a glow engine Flat Lusterkote works very well, but since my plane is electric now I used flat Model Masters.

I want to put a flight video together showcasing all of the scale functions of my model, the weather has to cooperate and a decent videographer have to converge on the same day, we will see!

v6goose

Hey Luke...

Great job. I was doing some research into drop tanks just this week for the '51 to discover that very few companies make ordinance at the larger scales anymore.

This prompted me to figure out how to do this myself (and save some money)... to that end, what method did you use to make yours?

Cheers

Goose

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Good question, I did see that you are trying your hand in vacuum forming. I have some pointers and they are just my opinion based on about 10 years of really trying to master this. Others may do it differently, but this is what works for me.

The drop tanks were the biggest thing I made at that time, it was experimental! If you have ever taken wood shop then you must have made a bowl of some kind on a lathe. This was to come in handy for this. I used wood glue and a thick piece of paper to glue two 2" x 4" together, I think my tank had to be 17" long. The paper is used so the two halves can be easily separated after shaping.

Once they are separated I glued them to a 1/8" piece of plexiglass, then I added the detail like where the pipes and cap was with thick paper.

I found out that the grain from the wood would show through, so I just made copies out of plaster and sanded them smooth, that is what I use. Balsa, although a bit more expensive would work well for this.

On vacuum forming itself, I have a few pointers. Don't bother making an "air box" of any sort for making single parts, it's just another area where air has to be extracted before the plastic can be sucked down, this delays the time and for good parts the delay must be eliminated wherever possible. I just use a board with a hole in it, just elevate your parts slightly with pieces of plastic and seal the edges with foam tape used for screen doors and windows. As I said though, this will not work with multiple parts, for that I use an air box that is just 1/4" high and a table with 1/16" holes drilled in it. The next big thing to getting good parts is to heat the plastic properly, a good rule of thumb is to wait for the white polystyrene to start smoking, then it's ready, does not work with PETG!! Get the heated plastic to the table as fast as humanly possible.

For molds I was lucky enough to get some remnants from a plastic company of the stuff they use for vacuum forming. It's a type of resin designed for vacuum forming, and it turns very nice on a lathe. I made a 1/9 scale torpedo for an Avenger and some 1,000lb bombs with this stuff. You can also use casting resin designed for vacuum forming, that is how I made my Corsair intakes.

Good luck!

v6goose

Hey Luke...

Thanks a lot for all the info mate.

One more justification check mark for buying that lathe and mill that have been bugging me for years now

I did make a box but with a single hole as mentioned. Finding materials in Ottawa is like searching for (and finding) rocking-horse poop so I ended up buying an 8'x4' sheet of 20 thou PETG... It will last forever, but I needed to vac form those pesky wing tip light covers.

I managed to get them in a single pull which was pure luck, but it did work quite well.

I didn't realise your drop tanks were vac formed I thought they were glass. Either way a good idea.

Thanks again!

Goose

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Yea, vacuum formed these because I can handle a part up to about 22". Making fiberglass parts is pretty easy, you can spin the blue foam on a lathe to make a plug with. I just use a dowel in the center, I can get the 4" thick blue foam. The epoxy and supplies will run you about $150, but once you have the mold you'll never have to worry about tanks for that plane again.

Got to buy the big sheets of plastic, I have a good stock pile myself! A neighbor bought a Harbor Freight wood lathe, the higher end one and he said it did not work so I could have it. He burned out the motor because he did not read the directions, so I got an $18 replacement motor and I've been using it ever since!

For small parts it's easier to just use a small amount of plastic and use a heat gun. Not checking to see if I posted this before on this thread, but this is how I did mine. Add some 1/8" balsa to make the lip for the lens, works pretty good.

Riddle4U

I enjoyed watching the latest video of your famous Royal Corsair. Very interesting to see you convert it to electric! Anyway, good to see you on the internets...and to remind us that you fly as well as you build. - Eric H.