dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

I'm building a Royal Corsair .60 from plans. I thought I'd share my experience with everyone here so I set up a web site detailing my progress, or lack of progress! So if you like the old Royal/Marutaka kits especially the Corsair then check out my site. I'll be showing a few special scale details that Corsair fans will love. I love advice and feedback also, and if I get enough encouragement (sign my guest book) I just might finish it!

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Ok, I've added details on how to build a Scale retractable tail wheel. This is based on the Earl Aune unit. It has a working shock and tail hook. When you go to my site, go all the way to the bottom and click on the Corsair link. These tail wheels are very light, but I am going to do all I can to keep the tail as light as possible. A Corsair just dosn't look right without the right gear in the tail! I have heard complaints about the Earl Aune units breaking, but they were never designed to be used in a 100" Corsair that weighs 40 pounds. He originally built it for the 75" Holman Corsair. Anyway it will work perfectly in the .60 size Royal Corsair, scaled down of coarse!

v6goose

Great stuff! Keep it up... Nice work on the tailwheel assembly. How did you join the PCB to brass?

Goose

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks V6Goose It is just solder. The Printed Circuit Board is copper on both sides. It really is cool stuff to work with.

shupack

looks great so- far, i've never seen the royal plans, but i have a copy of ziroli, i'm doing that next, what's different about the wing centre section? that looks like a secondary spar insead of a TE spar, where will the wing bolts go, and is the belly pan removable?

also, where can i get a copy of the tailwheel plans?

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks Shupack. I have the Ziroli plans also, I haven't looked at them in a while though, the only thing I don't like about the Ziroli is the front of the fuselage and I really hate the Ziroli fiberglass cowl, yuk!! Before everyone attacks me that is just my opinion based on comparisons with the full scale bird.

The Royal wing does have a secondary spar, this is one of the many ways that it is superior to the Top Flite kit. It gives you a clean uncluttered rear wing to put the flaps in, and make them the scale size. The wing bolts will go at the rear of the center section, a wedge shaped block will be glued in, and no I am not making the bottom wing fairing removable.

I knew the "Where can I get plans" question was coming. You can't get these plans anywhere that I know of. I may draw a set up for distribution, I just want to get this plane done first.

Luke
(dionysusbacchus)

shupack

can you just scan what you have? or are they copyrighted?

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Yea I can do that! I have a set of drawings for that size plane. They don't show every part but it'll be easy to add them. For the giant Corsair you must machine the shock plunger out of 1/4" aluminum rod, that is the most difficult part for the average joe I guess.

This is one I did for the Ziroli Corsair

G.F. Reid

My Feedback: (1)

Enviable work as usual Luke. That tailwheel is awesome. Mind tacking [email protected] into in the "c.c." window when you send that scan out?
I've got a Royal Corsair in the box too.

Juice

Luke,

You have a good website going there. I like the "how-to step-by-step" photos. It helps us noob scale builders tremendously. I noticed that the "Tail Wheel 2" section is up. That tailwheel is a work of art!

I'm strongly considering to replace the music wire strut/axle of my Robart #121 tailwheel retracts with the strut/fork/axle assembly you have. I noticed you have brass tubes, the strut, soldered to the fork. The Robart tailwheel is designed for a music wire strut. Can music wire be soldered to the brass on the PCB? Any idea on how to do this?

Thanks,
Juice

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

No, I wouldn't attempt soldering music wire, my brain has been working overtime on this, it's just that I want to put all my efforts into this project while I have the momentum. If I stick it on the shelf it could stay! I was thinking of eliminating the music wire completely, drill the retract out along with the control horn so a 1/8" brass tube will fit. A length of music wire could be inserted into the brass tube to give it more strength. Build the exposed part of the tail wheel as it is on mine, but it would just leave more of the 1/8" brass tube exposed. I'll do a drawing for ya when I get a chance. Anyway thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

Luke

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Greg old buddy haha Just kidding!

Yes if I get a chance to do a decent set of plans for this thing I'll send you a copy. Thanks for the input on the site, out of all the hits my site has had your only the second one to sign my guest book! Thanks!

Thanks again for all your encouragement,

Luke

G.F. Reid

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Luke...and in all seriousness, no rush on this whatsoever-and with the great step by step photos on your website, a simple scan showing the dimensions would be enough.
As for your website, I've got it bookmarked! I know there's more to come in the way of great scale tips.

Juice

Luke,

Last night I made my fork using your method. I have never worked with silver solder like this before. This stuff is strong and bonded to 3/32" music wire strut very well! Retrofitting the strut/fork on the Robart tailwheel retract was not an issue. The pictures on your website helped along the way.

I scavenged scrap PCB from work, I also had scrap brass tube and leftover 3/32" music wire. The total cost to make a scale tailwheel strut/fork... $0.00.

Anyways, I just wanted to let you know that your website helped at least one person almost immediately. Thanks.

Juice

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Hey Juice that sounds great. The field is always the final word, let me know how it goes. Let's see some pictures!

I'm ready to paint mine, I'll be posting pictures on my site in a few days. The primer will have to dry all night, then I can do the colors.


Luke

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Got the Tail Wheel done and I have updated my site. I'll get the fuselage framed up next.

v6goose

That is awesome... great work!

Goose

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks V6goose! The hardest thing about building one of these tail wheels is keeping it all in alignment from the mount to the tip of the hook. I'm going to continue with the fuselage now, that tail gear takes up a huge part of the tail! This next part of the project should be interesting...

v6goose

I can imagine.

My big F4U is some time off, but to keep the "No fly warbird" jitters down, im finishing an ARF Corsair due to fly in the next couple of weeks

Im keeping all these ideas along with the continual search for documentation to help when the project fires up...

Thanks! for sharing yours...

Goose

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Hey V6goose, Corsairs fly great! Let me know how the ARF Corsair does.

I am finishing up the fuselage on my Corsair page. My page has recieved 20,155 hits in 2 weeks! I wish more that like my site would sign my guest book! I could use all the help I can get in the motivation department!

More to come!

Luke

v6goose

Gidday Luke...

Yay! for ole 'hose nose'...

Yeah i love Corsairs and Mustangs, and now have one of each.

The F4U is ready to roll except for a balancing problem (ie: it sux) and will be run up this weekend.

Good hit rate on your site, and your Corsair is looking awesome! KEEP GOING!

The world needs more 'heavy metal' in the skies, and yours will be fantastic!

Build man! build like there's no tomorrow...

Goose

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Ok Corsair fans and others that are following my project! I have finished the tail wheel doors, they now close when the wheel retracts. Check out my site for more info. Here is a sample.

This shows the door closing rods.

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

This is the wheel half retracted.

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Fully retracted, works great.

Juice

Luke,

Nice job with those tailwheel doors.

I did my tailwheel door the same way, except my ball links are attached to the steering arm of my Robart tailwheel (the highest spot with the most travel that I can possibly attach them).

I got similar results... the most they will open is pointing straight down. Scale open is almost parallel to the ground.

And yes... my tailwheel doors will move whenever I steer. It's hardly noticeable, and at least it will look good while it's parked.

Juice