thunderbolt-RCU

My Feedback: (14)

Anybody have any ideas on how to haul 90 inch plus warbirds in a trailer without damage? Ideas and pictures would help. My planes do not like the vibration of a long tww3o day drive.
Brian

fw190d9

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Brian, I make racks for each of my warbirds out of 1 inch PVC and foam padding. Each rack is specifically built for a particular warbird. This way they fit snug and dont move around. I make a one piece cradel that holds the fuse and has a small side mount to hold the wing. Rubber bands are used on each fuse and wing to hold them down into the rack. I have a 16ft bumper trailer with a shelf spanning across the middle. I usually put 2 warbirds in thier respective racks on the top shelf and 2 on the bottom. I use tie straps to hold the racks to the trailer floor.
This has worked well for me as it allows me flexibility on which warbirds go where in the trailer and it still allows me to have a trailer for other uses.
Evan Q.

fw190d9

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Brian, Here is a pic of my spitfire rack
Evan Q.

thunderbolt-RCU

My Feedback: (14)

Evan:
Have you had any problem with vibration backing out screws or hinges coming unglued? On my last two day trip from Denver to Phoenix (15 hours) three screws vibrated out of a servo case. Do you have a method of securing control surface (like the elevator and rudder) so the vibration doesnt destroy your control linkage setup and servo mounts?
I have also had other instances of trailer vibration problems over long trips. I plan to take the trailer to TopGun next month and don't want the plane to shake its self to death. I did not have these problems when I transported the planes in a van or pickup truck with a shell.

Thanks, Brian

fw190d9

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Brian, To be honest, the biggest problem Ive had is the hangar rash getting the birds into and out of the trailer. Other than that, there have been no problems with the airplanes while riding in the trailer. When I go on trips, I use a whole box of rubber bands strapping the airplanes down. I also strap the spinner/prop to keep it from free turning if there is wind inside the trailer. I dont secure the control surfaces as I have not needed to.
Evan Q.

LarryC

Have you had the tires balanced on your trailer. The trailer tires can be pretty poorly balanced and you still not feel it in the truck. Just a thought...

Larry

flying2bill

My Feedback: (2)

How stiff is the suspension on your trailer? Have someone follow you with a simulated load in your trailer or better yet have someelse pull your trailer and you follow will give you an idea of how much your trailer moves. I have an idea stuck somewhere in my head for an adjustable airride suspension for small trailers but have gotten it to fall out yet.

thunderbolt-RCU

My Feedback: (14)

I will get my tires balanced this week. I had not thought about that. A softer spring and suspension is also a good idea.
Evan, your rack system looks like it would work. BTW, how is your PCM 109 coming along. I have seen Pat fly his many times and it is a very impressive airplane. It likes grass better than a hard surface runway.

My trailer is 14 feet long with two shelves that slide out. The bottom one is about 4 inches off the floor so I can slide two folding tables under the shelf. The fuselage sits of 4 inches of foam with foam blocks under the wing saddle and under the horizontal stab. Then I secure the fuselage with a bungee cord. The plane in the picture is one of my 92 inch Ziroli Thunderbolts.

fw190d9

My Feedback: (1)

Brian, The PCM 109 is coming along nicely. I just updated my webpage last night with new construction pics:
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/me109.html
Ive got the bird mostly primered and Im currently doing surface detail such as the various bumps and blisters associated with 109s. Try making a rack to fit your thunderbolt. Use sched 40 PVC, make it so the fuse cradle hugs the bottom of the fuse where the wing mounts. Also, one of the wing saddles on the mount will have to be higher than the other so that the wing fits over the horizontal stab and doesnt come into contact with it. Once you get it all built and it fits snugly and you have put the foam(The black pipe foam available at hardware stores), Go back and glue all the joints with PVC cement so that it does not come apart.
Evan Q.
PS, I think Rabbit has an engine mounting problem.

thunderbolt-RCU

My Feedback: (14)

Evan:
I looked at your web page. The 109 is looking great. I am sure you will love it when it is finished. Pat does things right.

You are right about the picture of my P-47 "Rabbit"
I threw a prop blade while in flight.
I think a piece of lead vibrated loose and came out of the front of the cowl hitting and breaking one blade of the prop. The vibration tore the firewall off. Luckely, I was able to dead stick to a realatively safe landing. This incedent was at the 1/8th scale flyin last week in Phoenix. The loose lead in the cowl is one of the reasons I started this thread. I had the cowl off for a routine maintaince check prior to leaving Denver for Phoenix and everything was fine. I think the lead vibrated loose during the drive.

Brian

Check out my other Jugs in my photo gallery

Wormy J

My Feedback: (6)

Brian,

Try a much lower tire pressure. I had a 12' Wells Cargo that I towed empty with the tires at the factory pressure and it bounced like crazy over every bump. Lowered the pressure by 8-10 pounds (I think it was about 24-28 PSIG) and it rode much better. Trailers are like full size trucks, made to be loaded up. I think we (modelers) are hardly loading them and the just ride hard.

Towed my Tiger Moth about 1500 miles so far, on the wheels, strapped to the floor of the trailer without anything falling off!

Jeremy

fw190d9

My Feedback: (1)

Brian, I hate to add lead to my planes also but sometimes you just plain gotta do it. On mine, to prevent lead from flying off, I make a mold like a small ingot or brick from galvanized tin flashing. I heat up the lead with a torch and let it drip into the mold until the mold is full. Once cooled, you can pull the tin mold off and you are left with a nice lead brick. I then drill several holes in the lead brick and secure it to the firewall with bolts and locknuts. You can also shape the mold so that the finished product will it into different places in the cowl or whatever.
Evan Q.

Nickrc3

My Feedback: (6)

Brian,




This method has not failed me in 6 years. Fuselages supported on their sides by tubular brackets from Home Depot. These are modified with a 5/8" plywood cradle fastened onto the bracket. This cradle has a cutout that duplicates the former of that particular plane (taken directly form the plans) minus an inch all around for heavy padding.

I once used bungee cords to secure the fuselages in the cradle, then learned that 1" velcro works beautifully.

The trailer is a Wells Cargo Sport - 6' x 12' x 6' high. I've owned other trailers in the past, the Wells Cargo is simply the best. If you can afford the addition cost, I highly recommend them.


NICK

Nickrc3

My Feedback: (6)

Brian,

Another pic of the trailer set-up ...

Nickrc3

My Feedback: (6)

Ah, now I remembered to attach the pic!

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

Brian if I may,
Since I don't know what type of trailer you have, my answer is to make sure the suspension is not too rigid. I built my own trailer and made sure it was built as heavy as possible since the cargo would never be heavy (airplanes) Also make sure your tires are not too hard for a light load, balanced wheels, and try softening the suspension (not allways possible).

Good luck

thunderbolt-RCU

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks for the help guy. I have let some of the ail out of the tires and it is running smoother. I like Evan's idea on a plane rack for each plane. Makes sense. One of the things I love about my trailer is the storage area for the folding tables under the bottom shelf.
If anybody else has any good ideas, I am open.
How about tool, flight box and tent storage ideas?
Thanks, Brian

RandyL

My Feedback: (4)

I haul my larger aircraft around in a converted pop-up. My goal was to spend as few of my airplane dollars as possible on the hauler and still get the job done.
A ad in the local newspaper turned up several possibilites. Each were very cheap and in poor condition as fas as campers go.
I was lucky to find one that suited my list of "wants" which included a minimum length of 10 ft, minimum tire size of 13 inch, and a usable, safe, lift system for the top.
I stripped out everything, including the wood headliner, leaving the original vinyl flooring, paneling on the inside walls, and the rear slide out bed.
I put new radial tires on for a soft ride, painted the exterior with aquired leftover automotive enamel. Painted the inside with rustoleum for fuel proving reasons.
The discarded interior cabinets were cut up to make wheel well covering with opening tops for storage, and to make a tray along the front wall to hold flight boxs, fuel, parts etc. Many eyehooks installed and bungee cords used to secure everything.
1/4 inch brass inserts were placed in the flooring at many spots and more eyehooks installed along the edges of the flooring. 1/4 inch eyebolts can be screwed into any of the inserts in the flooring to secure any aircraft...options are endless.
The rear bed pulls out as a work table and has turned out to be one of the nicest features. There are brace legs for the bed and leveling legs for the trailer...all original parts.
I'll post a few pics to show the removable plates I make up for my B-25 and Ag-Cat. I anchor these two via the wheels, my B-17 is bolted into the floor utiliziing the brass insert holes..
I can only haul one of my big airplanes at a time..or several smaller ones.

RandyL

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A shot of the forward accessory tray, lawn chairs, and overhead wing rack ( bungee cords over padded tubing ). Brass, flush inserts can be seen in floor, as well as the flip top wheel well boxs.

RandyL

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It has a manual lift top, hence no cables, pulleys, etc..very simple. The front raises also but I seldom bother to just load or unload.
Here is the 17 fuse bolted down...

RandyL

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A couple of padded cross bars are put in place, then the wings hairpin clipped into a a board at the rear. The bed slides over this and the top comes down....
It is a nice soft ride with no hangar damage ( note foam!! ) for about 10 years now.
An investment of well under $200 has served me well.

RandyL

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The newest B-25 fits great in its own floor plate...

RandyL

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Even the 7 1/2 ft span Ag-Cat goes out on the weekend without any disassembly....thanks goodness!!
Hope these uploads spur ideas for those yet to build their trailers.