rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Barry

I will add looks like a plan keep it up

Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

NCIS

Thanks Bob and Rocketman,

I appreciate the kind words from both of you.


Barry

F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

Barry, some F4U-5N pictures I took in San Diego....and a Turkey

Jeff

NCIS

Jeff,

Thanks a bunch for the close up pic's of the 5N. It is funny about the glare deflectors though. Every picture of a different 5N has a different length or thickness of them. Plus the pipes are supposed to be square but that one there round. Who knows whats right. I guess you just have to stick with the one your copying right? I'll be working on the flap hinges soon and then I will ship your plans back to you. I hope you don't need them right now. If so let me know and I'll make copies and send them back right away.

Barry

NCIS

I started making my scab formers today so they meet the wing again. There must of been something wrong with the saddle because now with the new saddle and the former cut from a traceing of the plans and the 1/4 datum line crutch being it's stoping point when it is in place it fits the wing perfectly with the +2 degree incidence. I traced the formers and the cut lines off of the plan with a pencil and then cut them out so I had a template to cut out the scabs from. This is my first of 6 that I need to do. There are 3 on each side that need to be made for the difference in the distance from the wing to the original saddle.

Josh,

I forgot to tell you that you will need to remove the top part from where it angles for the back of the wing out of former #8 if you intend on putting in Dynamic Balsa's custom cockpit. It won't work with them there. I would do it now and also get the angle of your rail runner in place before you go to far. You will also need to put in a cockpit floor per his instructions for the correct position. I just used a pair of needle nose plyers after I used my razor saw to cut the former and popped it loose. It's a little ugly on the inside but the cockpit will cover all that. Plus you need to put 1/4" balsa strips in to glue the cockpit walls to. All Corsair after the early versions had floors so I made my framewook out of 1/4" balsa stock and then the floor is 1/16" ply with 3/4 oz glass cloth on it for a smooth finish as you can see. The color is from Rustoleum Accents leafy green per Brian's at DB instrutions for the correct zinc chromate color.

Barry

maydog75

Barry,
Thanks for the heads up! Great job btw. Hey where did you get the right shade of snot green paint for the interior? I guess I need to go ahead and order dynamics kit. The rails look outstanding. Thats a big bonus on a photo of ow to mount mine. Did you decide how to actuate and seal the canopy once you split it?

NCIS

It's already split and then duct taped back together. I'm going to use 1/32" plywood with #0x3/8" screws and screw them in from the outside and then snip off the points and sand them even with the ply. I will make a paper template of the curve the ply will have to make and then space the screws evenly around. Once it's done I'll remove the ply and glass it so it gets a nice smooth coat of paint when I re-attach it. I'll see if I can find a pic of what I'm talking about and how the rails have a plank on the outside sanded at a bevel to match the contour of the fuse. Let me see if I can find them and I'll post them. These are some I thought you may be interested in. The paint was bought at Menards. It's called Rustoleum Accents and the color is Leafy Green. I think I'm going to change it though and go with the same color as the yellow zinc chromate in the wheel wells and retract areas. It's just called Yellow Zinc Chromate by Testors and you will need an airbrush because it only comes in those tiny bottles. All the insides of my hatches and the inside of the gear doors will be that color too. Oh yeah I posted a pic of just after I split my canopy and also one of yours and mine next to each other so you could see the difference.

Barry

TakingFlight96

Looks Great !!! Let ya know what I decide about the painting situation, I can't make up my mind [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

TF96

NCIS

Thanks 96,

I finished my former extentions and it is starting to look better. I hope my new digital incidence meter gets here tomorrow so I can check it and then replank and glue in the 1/32" plywood saddles. These are before and after making th scab formers. There the same on both side so I only posted pic's of the left side.

Gibbs

NCIS

I epoxied in the wing dowels today and it is level so now I just need to make longer false saddles and epoxy them in the same location as the first set were and check the yaw. Once it's right I'll drill for my 8mmx1.25 wing hold down bolts and then tap the holes enlarge the wing holes so the bolt slides through and bolt it down. Then I'll check the incidence again. If it is correct I'll reinstall the retracts and set her up on her wheels for the first time. I'll set the stab and vertical fin at there correct incidences and then epoxy them in. Once thats doen I'll solder up some of the wires that will be hidden when I finish the planking and shell be close to glassing.

Gibbs

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

It looks like you will soon be ready to apply some color. I have been following your progress and have gotten some great ideas from your thread that will reduce the headaches and make my build less problematic. Look forward to seeing your Corsair on its wheels.

NCIS

David,

Best thing I can tell you is look ahead about 10 steps before you glue anything. If I had done this some of my problems wouldn't have happened. But most of them it had to be a solid structure to find it out the hard way. I know your wing saddle is already in and wish you better luck than I had with it. Have you checked your wing incidence yet? Are you close to getting back at it?

Barry

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Barry,

I got back to it last week. I have been spending time getting the main retract bearing blocks installed and cutting out the wheel wells. Hope to get the gear mounted and the gear doors cut out and trial fitted. Once that's done, I'll go back and check the incidence on the all surfaces and adjust as needed before completing the sheeting on the bottom of the wing. Maybe by the end on June, I can begin glassing everything.

David

NCIS

Good news David,

You still aren't going to do all the detailing and modifying then. You just want to get it in the air. I'll be looking forward to that so I can maybe see a video of the maiden flight. My digital incidence meter arrived and as I thought the old Robart needle one was off by 1 degree. In the picture it looks like 2 but it's the angle of the camer that fools the eye. Here it is with the new wing saddles and the Hanger 9 meter. It is at +2.1 and I don't know why it says -2 because if it goes the other way it is just blanks where the minus sign is at. I think this is good enough and now everything will get epoxied in place on the saddles and then I can replank that area.

Barry

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Barry,

I will put some minor detail on the plane just to dress it up a bit, but no major attempt at replicating any plane that proudly flew in WWII. Still debating whether to use the DA150 that I have on hand or to sell my Yak to get funds for a radial. I guess once I get closer to glassing the plane I'll make a final decision on powerplant.

David

NCIS

David,

If your not going all out scale why pay the big bucks for the radial when you already have a perfectly good engine for it? I didn't even pay the extra and I am going full scale. I'll just have to settle for my dummy radial that was a kit and looks very realistic. It's all black because the Corsair I'm duplicating was a night fighter. It will just have to do.

Barry

rack

My Feedback: (11)

did you decide to part out your corsair? i see your selling your eng.
any othetr parts you getting rid of?

NCIS

I just decided to buy a Moki! Plus why are you on my thread. I thought they banned you from posting on here!!!

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

i dont know what your talking about im not banned .
i spent the last 30 days flying in japan

NCIS

Thats fine rack lets just play nice OK?

Gibbs

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Barry,

After selling my Saito 450 radial and the TopFlight Corsair, I kinda missed the sound and extra realism the radial gives to a warbird. The only concern I have have is whether the RCS 250 will provide enough power to push this heavy Corsair to a decent speed. But in any event, I will need to sell off a few items to fund the radial.

David

NCIS

David and all,

I am having some issues with my Corsair and the weather. During the winter my wing warped and it ended up twisted. The fuselage is also slightly warped. I can only attribute this to the big temp changes and the humidity affects when turning on and off the heat. I am selling the this engine and a few more items including a G-62 for money to get a new kit from PCK and to start saving for the Moki. This time I plan on making lightning holes in all the formers and ribs to get this fat lady down under or as close to the 55 lbs. limit as humanly possable. I will also be using every opportunity to keep things light. Like using carbon fiber wing tubes. Plus the wing will be built last and the fuse will be kept in the shop in the house where the temp and humidity are almost constant. I will also build jigs for the wing for building and storage until it's ready for glass. The fuse won't see the garage until it is all sheeted and planked and ready for glass and I'll do the fuse first and then bring up the wing and do it. This time the planks will be much wider to lessen the weight of ca. Sad to say that this one was a lot of work and wasted time. Darn humidity got me good. I know that is what it was because everything was straight before this winter. I know that from measuring when building.[&o] I will start a new thread when I start this new Don Smith 1/4 scale F4U-5N Corsair. Farewell for now!!!

Barry

rack

My Feedback: (11)

sounds like what iv been saying since you started this . the wing didn't warp you built the twist in it. the wing needs to be built in one piece partially sheeted then separate the panels its the only practical way to do this
what a waste of time

wingspar

My Feedback: (3)

NO!!!!!!!!!! Say it ain't so!!!!!

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jytHSVSZHuk


Dave

rack

My Feedback: (11)

how much for your prop system?