CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Mine tracks straight down the runway, but does have a more than usual tendency to roll left immediately after takeoff. In fact, I am now wondering if that was part of the reason for my crash: full throttle at slow speed.

Anyway, finally got my NEW fuselage completed today, and flew it for the 1st time since mid July: WOO HOO!
My new fuselage is actually almost 3 oz lighter, but that is partly because it lacks the exhaust stacks (on back order) and all of the decals (on back order), but I still think it will end up an oz or so lighter, getting it just under 10 lbs (with 'fuel'/ batteries).

The "SHOO SHOO BABY" decals are on it, and looking good, but I'll wait until the new exhaust stacks and decals arrive before I post more pics.

Bob Paris: really nice job you did there with that K&B engine, really gives it a clean look.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

I'm down to the engine installation and detailing. Hopefully I can avoid doing the whole panel line and weathering act that is bugging me so. I am going with "Old Crow" Great graphics from Callie Graphics www.callie-graphics.com , I did all the hardwork of measuring everything for you and she can just shoot you another set of the vinyls. Great work and great price. WIll upload pics when she's finished.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

Just a word of caution, I'm sure most of you noticed this already, but the inside wood of the engine compartment is not fuel-proofed. A quick dose of CA will take care of that. Funny, they fp'd the firewall and front former but not the roof of the engine compartment. I just changed my mind on the engine, was going to use an older but reliable OS 120 but my new YS-110 fit in there so nice and snug. Valve cover and head is lower as well. Pressure tank is always good! Bummer is that a slimline Pitts just won't fit inside. May have to use stock muffler.

heli2883

My Feedback: (21)

use these mufflers of slime line they are not as wide as the slimline.

http://www.keleo-creations.com/ inverted mufflers

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

I noticed that in an absolute vertical climb, it will vier to the left. But with the rudder trimmed pretty much for vertical climb, it will takeoff straight as an arrow.
It is a Great flier. Most fun plane I have had in a long tome and the OS 120 AX is abonable. lands easier than a Goldberg Falcon 56. Top Flite has finally made a warbird suitable for beginners, Maybe!!!

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

Mine takes full right rudder on the takeoff, and that is while advancing the throttle at a slow to moderate pace. If I firewalled it, I would not have enough rudder to hold heading. I have to continue to hold rudder long after the gear are up and the I begin the turn out.

Jeff

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I just left my LHS and I had ordered the Robart 608HD retracts for this plane. They got in the 609HD retracts. The 609HD retrects are 85% retracts and the 608HD are 90%. I don't think it will make that much differance in the why they retract back into the wheel bays, but it my look a little funny whith the wheels down. I think the 85% retracts are more for the P-47. I'll use them and see how they work.

I will be usings an OS 75AX in mine with a Top-Flite in-cowl muffler. I talked to Top Flite about this and they said the muffler will be totally inside the cowl and will have no bad affects on the way the engine run's. My OS 75AX spin's an Evolution 13x8 prop at 10,500RPM. Should pull the plane thru the are just fine

gjeffers

received my P-51 in 1 day, shipped from Reno 250 miles to me next day with standard shipping, blew my mind. this is the best arf that i can see that ive ever bought.everything was there and in great shape. now i have to find the time to build.....

and by the way, my retract bay mounts have been modified already at the factory

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

Here is my P-51 just about complete, I used CJ Retracts, I dont like how you can see the spring area with the Robarts so I went with the CJ retracts, look more scale. I have a 91 2 stroke in it, I'm still wondering if there's a muffler that will fit in the cowl? The plane was built really well at TP. My retract bay mount has also already been modified from the factory.

I forgot to mention my P-51 Had a baby.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Goedhartridge -
Yes, I plan on using rubber extensions. I've just not found the ones I want yet. I may have to go with DuBro extensions, but I'm looking for 1/2" thin wall brass tubing.

As the instilation to the C.J. landing gear, I've posted this in an eariler response in this post some where. But I may make some serious mods to my my landing gear instilation. I'm going to remove the C.J. retracts, router down the hold down hard wood landing gear railings and install my gear right properly and use the gear doors. As of now, part of the main gear wheels stick up above the wing, and I don't like how it looks. I understand T.F. has corrected this in their later issues of the kit. But my mounting railings are not parallel with the top of the wing. I do not like the air tank and retract actuation servo in the fuse...so I'm going to relocate it to the wing...all of it and clean up the center fuse.

Yes...my spinner will be painted red...just like the tail will be. I'm going with 332nd. Sq. colors. All my T-Bolts and P-51's have always flown with a red tail.

drdoom -
I know that this is a critical area...engine cooling, and I may open up my cowl just a bit more. After I get my exhaust extensions installed, I'll deal with this again.

I ordered a Sullivan on-board glow re-heat today. I will install this into my fuse when it arrives. Thanks for the input.

CorsairJock -
Thanks for the kind words.

NJAIRSTRIKE -
The modeler in our club here made up his own muffler and had it welded up at a metal works shop here on Maui. If you use the Top Flight in-cowl muffler with your OS .90 FX, you will find that this muffler does not work well with .90 class two strokes. .75 is about as big as you can go, with the T.F. in-cowl muffler, with out modifing it. You can open up the T.F. in-cowl mufferler and have a second exhaust welded in....that will give the muffler more breating room for the exhaust and allow the muffler to work for you. That is how I have seen it done before.
______________________________

I've got a 16 x 6 Master Airscrew Simitar wood propeller mounted on my engine. I've been told that the K&B 1.00 will spin that much wood ... : )

The elevator control horn instilation sucks the way the T.F. did it on this kit. A nice access door would have been nice, for the elevator horn... : )

Some flying this model state that a lot of down trim is needed on take off. A few have stated that no or very little elevator trim was needed for straight and level flight. R/C Report stated that their kit needed a 1/2 of the down trim for straight and level flight. So did a fellow modeler in our club need a lot of down trim on his first flight, so he moved his CG to 5 1/4" and found that this worked great for him. I'm setting my CG at 5 1/4".

Soft landings always,
Bobby of Maui

Kempdawg89

Hi everyone, first time poster long time reader.

Well I just ordered mine today, before reading this entire thread (whew - long thread), and it looks like I made the right choice.

Trying to decide on an engine - how do you guys feel about a supertiger G90? I fly @ 7k elevation and will take all the power I can get. I have not heard this engine mentioned in the thread which is surprising because it seems very economical @ about $130 I will buy the pitts style muffler along with it.

Thanks in advance,
Dan

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

tower has one of these 60 size mustang arfs in their scratch and dent for $210. no retracts but i would change them to air retracts any way so that is a plus to me.

Ed

rjp

Hi folks,

This is a great build thread! My P-51D is still in the box, however I had a question about retracts. Has anyone used the LADO-Tech electric retracts? A few guys in my club have tried them on other models with good results. Their website states that the new 60-5 model are made for TP P-51S. Here is the site if you are interested. http://lado-tech.com/

Any thoughts?

rjp

sevans16

Those Lado's look like a great idea. Made in the USA!!! Thanks for the link!!

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

J'Tec makes a in-cowl muffler for 90 size 2 strokes. You can find them at Tower Hobbies.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKHU8&P=0

Kempdawg89

Any opinions on powering this plane with the G90? Thanks.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I think the Super Tigre G90 would be a good power plant for this plane. I would look around and get another muffler for it. The giant size muffler from ST would not look very good on this sweet looking P-51. Here is a link to a Slimline muffler that would work very well. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&P=0icely:D:D

Kempdawg89

Thanks for your advice on the engine and thanks for the link.

Another question - Do I really need those expensive S9001 servos or can I just use my standard servos (S148) from past planes? They are right on the minimum spec for torque.

perhaps running a 6 volt pack would be cheaper than buying 6 of these.

Or can I get away with standard on say the flaps and the 9001's on say the rudder? What is the most demanding of all the control surfaces for torque?

Thanks alot - trying to keep the cost of this build under control!

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I am not really familiar with those Futaba servo's, but here is what I am going to be using. 5-hitec 475 servo's ($18ea)on aileron's, flaps and elevator, 1 Hitec($13) 422 on throttle and 1 high torque Hitec 5945($50) on the rudder. I will also be using a OS 75AX for power with a Top Flite in-cowl muffler. I hope this helps

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

You should always put your best servo on the elevator. You can fly without a rudder, try it without your eleveator.

Kempdawg89

Thanks for all the valuable input. On a side note, if anyone knows of other threads, online reveiws or build sequenced threads related to this plane please post a link.

thanks!

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I will consider what you have to say, but the rudder and tail wheel in this setup require a push rod for each. Both rods being on the same side of the servo arm. This would put more load on the rudder servo and the elevator servo requires only a 44oz torque servo. The Hitec 475 produces 76oz of torque using a 6v battery and has karbonite gears. This will be more than enough for the elevator.

michaelbbbb

I have been flying my TF now for past few weeks, and I gotta say.....this plane is fun to fly! I have had a couple other warbirds, but the overall experience with this one has been exceptional. The only hassle I have had is with retracts, per my previous threads, but I have settled in on the mechanical robarts, with struts and a high torque JR servo for them, and no problems since.

I'm using a Saito 125 with slimline muffler....and this thing hauls [>:]

I'm running the CG at 5" right now, and just needed a couple clicks down elevator for level flight at 1/2 throttle.

The take off and landing characteristics are pretty forgiving, and it has no real nose-over issues at all...(can't say the same for other P-51's I have had.
Overall, I'm really pleased, and would highly recommend this ARF to anyone wanting a .60 size warbird.

cruzomatic

My Feedback: (17)

Michael,

What size prop are you spinning with that Saito 125?

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

the g90 would be a great engine for this plane. I use it in all my 60 size mustangs. I had one in my 60 size top flite kit mustang, and it flew that plane very well. I would recommend the slimline large volume pitts muffler which is a good muffler for this engine when side mounted. it sounds great and the tiger runs very well with it, especially if you squeeze the outlet tubes down a bit to get little more back pressure. use a fox long idle bar plug for breakin and a os f plug after breakin. i use 10% omega fuel which has some castor and have been getting good engine life and performance. the best prop I have found is the apc 14-6.

Ed