Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
10-25-2016, 05:22 PM
#3301
I was afraid to fly mine at first, but after I got a couple flights in once it got dialed in, it is a pleasure to fly, and hopefully now that I got the gear angle and wheels spinning freely it will handle better on the ground. Compared to my other planes, yes it flies heavy, but it's a warbird so it has to handle heavy or it wouldn't be a warbird! 
Fly it to the ground and you will enjoy it, I keep power on until it crosses the threshold, then chop power and grease it in, but only ONCE did it make it on its tail, all the rest of the times it wound up on its nose, probably because the tires were rubbing on the struts. My last landing I hit a mole hole and bent one of the struts, so haven't had a chance to fly it since.
If you do get one, get Eflite retracts, they are nice and strong and work quite well with Robarts struts and wheels. The DLE 20 will fly it well, I flew mine with a Saito 100 and it flew nice, but I had issues with the elevator and wound up looping it on landing. I was on approach, went to go around and when I pulled up it flipped on its back and looped in. I solved the elevator issue, had too much throw, so make sure you set it to low rates when you fly or it will snap over at high speed. I put the Saito 100 on a Cub while I was repairing it, and got a 125 for this one, and it flies it very well with nice power and sound, but sucks the go juice so I don't get many flights in. I think the 125 is broken in now so I can fine tune the carb and hopefully reduce the amount of fuel it uses and get longer flight time.
Fly it to the ground and you will enjoy it, I keep power on until it crosses the threshold, then chop power and grease it in, but only ONCE did it make it on its tail, all the rest of the times it wound up on its nose, probably because the tires were rubbing on the struts. My last landing I hit a mole hole and bent one of the struts, so haven't had a chance to fly it since.If you do get one, get Eflite retracts, they are nice and strong and work quite well with Robarts struts and wheels. The DLE 20 will fly it well, I flew mine with a Saito 100 and it flew nice, but I had issues with the elevator and wound up looping it on landing. I was on approach, went to go around and when I pulled up it flipped on its back and looped in. I solved the elevator issue, had too much throw, so make sure you set it to low rates when you fly or it will snap over at high speed. I put the Saito 100 on a Cub while I was repairing it, and got a 125 for this one, and it flies it very well with nice power and sound, but sucks the go juice so I don't get many flights in. I think the 125 is broken in now so I can fine tune the carb and hopefully reduce the amount of fuel it uses and get longer flight time.
10-25-2016, 05:52 PM
#3302
drube, I flew mine with a Magnum 91 FS. It was about 9.5 lbs I think. Flew good and "light", but I thought slightly under powered. After the 91 self destructed I converted to gas and installed a DLE 20. Plenty of power. I had to duct air from the scoop to the rear of the cowl and add cowl flaps to prevent vapor lock because of the carb being above the pitts muffler. With the DLE the plane is a little heavier, about 11 lbs. It lands slightly faster, but not bad. Still flies good. Does not fly "heavy". I angled the gear forward some. Handles a grass field ok. Also had to mount the ignition battery in the rear just in front of the tail wheel to get proper CG. The plane is seven years old with over 300 flights on it. 
10-25-2016, 06:04 PM
#3303
My Feedback: (13)
Hay RBean,
I used a DLE 20RA (rear exhaust) and I did not need to use any ducting. It runs great with out any ducting like you did. If you use the rear exhaust 20 cc class engines...your good out of the box. Just install, open up the lower cowl were the head of the engine pokes through...and make sure you open up the lower cowl around the exhaust. Just look at what the other guys did and you will be safe. Do your self a favor...and break in the engine and get it properly set up. A dead stick will give you lots of excitement.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I used a DLE 20RA (rear exhaust) and I did not need to use any ducting. It runs great with out any ducting like you did. If you use the rear exhaust 20 cc class engines...your good out of the box. Just install, open up the lower cowl were the head of the engine pokes through...and make sure you open up the lower cowl around the exhaust. Just look at what the other guys did and you will be safe. Do your self a favor...and break in the engine and get it properly set up. A dead stick will give you lots of excitement.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
Did you paint it? Got any more pic you could share? Any close up?
10-26-2016, 06:02 PM
#3308
It is in the colors of the Royal Austrian Air Force. Italy, 1945.They were about the last ones to give up their P-40s for Mustangs. I'll see if I can load some pictures. With regard to the cooling, Bob Paris is right. My DLE 20 is an older one before the RA came out. I think the side exhaust part of the muffler blocks some of the air that needs to go to the rear in this tight cowling, and maybe extra hot metal inside the cowl create a little more heat
. Difference between not quite enough cooling and just enough. I got the FS numbers for the colors and got sample sizes from Home Depot. Exterior latex flat. Markings from Callie Graphics. After paint dried for two weeks, over sprayed with matte lacquer. I painted it in flats because it was so beat up from all the off field landings etc. from engine outs. Once I figured out it was vapor lock because of a hot carb I was able to fix it.
10-27-2016, 12:18 PM
#3310
I didn't glass. To much work for me. I used steel wool on the monocoat then gray primer. Then the latex, then the lacquer matt. Be sure you re-enforce the gear mounts. They need some help.
12-07-2016, 12:30 AM
#3311
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wow the most reading I've done..and still at page 108, got some more reading to do!!
I ordered mine about 2 weeks ago and got it last week. I right away started removing the top part of the monokote(green) on the elevator/horizontal stabilizer and both wings. I will just need the fuselage and rudder. My covering was good, with bubbles here and there just like on my Phoenix Models Texan II, But I'm going with a different scheme; Richard G. Candelaria and his "My Pride And Joy" P-51.
well going to continue reading some more and hopefully I can find more GREAT info!!
I ordered mine about 2 weeks ago and got it last week. I right away started removing the top part of the monokote(green) on the elevator/horizontal stabilizer and both wings. I will just need the fuselage and rudder. My covering was good, with bubbles here and there just like on my Phoenix Models Texan II, But I'm going with a different scheme; Richard G. Candelaria and his "My Pride And Joy" P-51.
well going to continue reading some more and hopefully I can find more GREAT info!!
12-07-2016, 08:13 AM
#3312
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Finally got done with reading this thread. I will be using a
Saito 100 or 115(whichever I can acquire first)
Eflite retracts with the robart struts
Hitec servos
Spektrum RX with Life battery
And maybe later if it survives maiden and a couple of flights, I'll do a tailwheel retract.
Hoping to have it finished next year around May or June and ready for our club's big event in July!!
Saito 100 or 115(whichever I can acquire first)
Eflite retracts with the robart struts
Hitec servos
Spektrum RX with Life battery
And maybe later if it survives maiden and a couple of flights, I'll do a tailwheel retract.
Hoping to have it finished next year around May or June and ready for our club's big event in July!!
12-07-2016, 11:41 AM
#3313
My Feedback: (13)
Aloha Guys,
This is an amazing model...and this thread on RCUniverse has been on going for more then eight (8) years. I still have my T.F. P-51D Red Tail flying and love it with the DLE 20 RA installed. I am now taking an old identical model I was given and using the "D to B" T.F. conversion kit, and making this one a "B" model. I did this before, but I lost the model when a wind sock pole jumped up and tore my wing off at full speed (nice re-kit though). I powered this model with a Super Tiger G90 and a great match up. To bad Super Tiger Engines are no longer available...for the G90 is one of the best engines I ever had. I installed my Robert Tail Wheel assembly into the model while I had the top part of the model removed to convert from a "D" to the "B" conversion. To install the tail wheel retract unit through the bottom would be a real challenge...for I am not saying it can't be done...just that it is much easier if you are able to work through the top and bottom simultaneously. The Robert tail wheel assembly never failed to work for me in the seven years I flew the model. It took a bit to figure out how to set it up, but once done...was a good unit that never failed to retract properly or steer as required. This will be my forth T.F P-51 build...my first was a old red box kit...back in 1975.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
This is an amazing model...and this thread on RCUniverse has been on going for more then eight (8) years. I still have my T.F. P-51D Red Tail flying and love it with the DLE 20 RA installed. I am now taking an old identical model I was given and using the "D to B" T.F. conversion kit, and making this one a "B" model. I did this before, but I lost the model when a wind sock pole jumped up and tore my wing off at full speed (nice re-kit though). I powered this model with a Super Tiger G90 and a great match up. To bad Super Tiger Engines are no longer available...for the G90 is one of the best engines I ever had. I installed my Robert Tail Wheel assembly into the model while I had the top part of the model removed to convert from a "D" to the "B" conversion. To install the tail wheel retract unit through the bottom would be a real challenge...for I am not saying it can't be done...just that it is much easier if you are able to work through the top and bottom simultaneously. The Robert tail wheel assembly never failed to work for me in the seven years I flew the model. It took a bit to figure out how to set it up, but once done...was a good unit that never failed to retract properly or steer as required. This will be my forth T.F P-51 build...my first was a old red box kit...back in 1975.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
12-07-2016, 11:55 AM
#3314
Hey Bob, Merry Christmas. How about starting a thread on your conversion. I have 2 of these now. I was given a new partial build and I have my original that was damaged in a crash and I want to do the same thing and make a B. On my TF P-47 I sheeted the bottom as usual then molded a fiberglass bottom over it. I cut out the sheeted section afterwards and then set up my retractable tail wheel and attached the fiberglass bottom over it, complete with gear doors. I can remove the whole bottom section to allow full access to the tail wheel. I think I will do the same to my old one.
12-07-2016, 12:10 PM
#3315
My Feedback: (13)
Hay Raptureboy,
I will do so...but it may be a few months. I have a couple of projects in line first. I need to finish my Giant Ugly Stick Twin wing first...then pull down my P-38 I built two years ago and never flew...and fly this hanger queen. The P-38 came out so nice...I didn't want to take the risk to fly it-and took over 9 months to build. But I have run out of room in my garage to hang models...and with the new Twin Ugly Stick being finished...I will need to make room for it. The model I built and the one I was given were both from the first issue of the T.F. P-51D ARF. I don't know of any other ARF's that have had a life this long...and still going strong. It speaks volumes of just how nice this model flies and the integrity of how it was first designed. I built my first T.F. red box P-51B back in 1976...fixed geared and powered by a K&B .61 and Kraft radio gear (I loved my Kraft radio gear...so sad its history).
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I will do so...but it may be a few months. I have a couple of projects in line first. I need to finish my Giant Ugly Stick Twin wing first...then pull down my P-38 I built two years ago and never flew...and fly this hanger queen. The P-38 came out so nice...I didn't want to take the risk to fly it-and took over 9 months to build. But I have run out of room in my garage to hang models...and with the new Twin Ugly Stick being finished...I will need to make room for it. The model I built and the one I was given were both from the first issue of the T.F. P-51D ARF. I don't know of any other ARF's that have had a life this long...and still going strong. It speaks volumes of just how nice this model flies and the integrity of how it was first designed. I built my first T.F. red box P-51B back in 1976...fixed geared and powered by a K&B .61 and Kraft radio gear (I loved my Kraft radio gear...so sad its history).
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
12-07-2016, 12:21 PM
#3316
Thanks Bob, sounds like where I am at 2 damaged airplanes 3 unfinished kits and too many honey do projects to count. I agree about this ARF lasting so long, wish the P-40 stayed as long I love mine.
12-07-2016, 05:32 PM
#3317
Finally got done with reading this thread. I will be using a
Saito 100 or 115(whichever I can acquire first)
Eflite retracts with the robart struts
Hitec servos
Spektrum RX with Life battery
And maybe later if it survives maiden and a couple of flights, I'll do a tailwheel retract.
Hoping to have it finished next year around May or June and ready for our club's big event in July!!
Saito 100 or 115(whichever I can acquire first)
Eflite retracts with the robart struts
Hitec servos
Spektrum RX with Life battery
And maybe later if it survives maiden and a couple of flights, I'll do a tailwheel retract.
Hoping to have it finished next year around May or June and ready for our club's big event in July!!
I flew mine with a 100 and it flew well, have a 125 in it now, but it likes the glow so it has very little time on it. The 115 would probably be the best fit, has more power to weight than the 125. Reason the 100 isn't in it now is I used the 100 in something else after picking up a used 125 and put that in it after repairing the plane. I looped it after a dumb thumb and it sat unrepaired, so the engines got swapped.
12-07-2016, 06:22 PM
#3318
My Feedback: (13)
Hay Raptrueboy,
I need to put my new retracts into my ESM Skyraider. Then install retracts into my B26 Invader I been flying fixed gear and then onto building my wing for my AMR kit. After this...I will make my "B" model...with a DLE 20RA and Lado retracts. I will install a retractable tail wheel too, for it will be easy to install with my top covering off.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I need to put my new retracts into my ESM Skyraider. Then install retracts into my B26 Invader I been flying fixed gear and then onto building my wing for my AMR kit. After this...I will make my "B" model...with a DLE 20RA and Lado retracts. I will install a retractable tail wheel too, for it will be easy to install with my top covering off.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
12-07-2016, 08:23 PM
#3320
My Feedback: (13)
Hay Chris,
It is a tight fit...but the DLE 20RA does drop straight in. Ok...you kind of need to shovel it in...but if you take your time...the out come is awesome. I managed less then a 1/32" gap between my spine and my airframe...and yes...it took some time to do it. But the outcome is so cool. If you clip the wings and make a Reno racer out of it...you will go fast. I'm not sure how many RPM's the DLE 20RA can take before you pull it apart, but you can prop it up and go to a hight pitch prop. I find the Xore 17x6 is the best prop for this engine...but its for over all power and pull...not speed. Maybe 15x10 will give you more speed...but I am just guessing here. I'm not sure the exact RPM limits the engine has...but once you get the DLE 20 running properly...it hauls my Red Tail right nice on a Xore 17x6 wood prop. I used a true turn parabolic P-51 spinner. The kit spinner is nicely painted...but it is not a parabolic shaped spinner and not scale. The one installed on my model is scale and keeps the shape of the nose more scale. I only use Aluminum spinner on my models now. I had a plastic spinner explode on me once and scared me into buying only aluminum now for my models.
It took me a bit of time to get my DLE 20RA to run properly...but I pulled the carb apart and put the whole thing inside a sonic cleaner...then reassembled the carb...reinstalled it onto my model...and I managed to fix the issues. It now runs like a charm and not only easy to start but has a good reliable idle too. Got to have a reliable idle...or you will manage to treat yourself to a lot of dead stick landings. This model glides ok...just put her down fast...she doesn't glide much if you get to slow.
I love the sound of the engine in the model...just music to my ears...and brings a smile to my face.
Soft Landings Always,Bobby of Maui
It is a tight fit...but the DLE 20RA does drop straight in. Ok...you kind of need to shovel it in...but if you take your time...the out come is awesome. I managed less then a 1/32" gap between my spine and my airframe...and yes...it took some time to do it. But the outcome is so cool. If you clip the wings and make a Reno racer out of it...you will go fast. I'm not sure how many RPM's the DLE 20RA can take before you pull it apart, but you can prop it up and go to a hight pitch prop. I find the Xore 17x6 is the best prop for this engine...but its for over all power and pull...not speed. Maybe 15x10 will give you more speed...but I am just guessing here. I'm not sure the exact RPM limits the engine has...but once you get the DLE 20 running properly...it hauls my Red Tail right nice on a Xore 17x6 wood prop. I used a true turn parabolic P-51 spinner. The kit spinner is nicely painted...but it is not a parabolic shaped spinner and not scale. The one installed on my model is scale and keeps the shape of the nose more scale. I only use Aluminum spinner on my models now. I had a plastic spinner explode on me once and scared me into buying only aluminum now for my models.
It took me a bit of time to get my DLE 20RA to run properly...but I pulled the carb apart and put the whole thing inside a sonic cleaner...then reassembled the carb...reinstalled it onto my model...and I managed to fix the issues. It now runs like a charm and not only easy to start but has a good reliable idle too. Got to have a reliable idle...or you will manage to treat yourself to a lot of dead stick landings. This model glides ok...just put her down fast...she doesn't glide much if you get to slow.
I love the sound of the engine in the model...just music to my ears...and brings a smile to my face.
Soft Landings Always,Bobby of Maui
Last edited by Bob Paris; 12-07-2016 at 10:12 PM.
12-07-2016, 09:49 PM
#3321
Agreed!
I flew it for a season on the side exhaust 20 with an APC 16x10. On the radar gun it was running at 109mph. The muffler stuck out the side and the tank was a Fuji water bottle when I got it. I pulled that out and replaced it with a rebuilt 20RA which I have modified internally. I squared up the reed block and adjusted the reeds too. I have a new cowl on back order.
The spinner is a good call and I've done the same. With some Krylon and a good automotive metal primer plus an oven you can paint a lasting finish on the spinner. I have the same spinner as you and I'm planning on matching the paint too.
Now it will be cleaned up and ready for next season.
I flew it for a season on the side exhaust 20 with an APC 16x10. On the radar gun it was running at 109mph. The muffler stuck out the side and the tank was a Fuji water bottle when I got it. I pulled that out and replaced it with a rebuilt 20RA which I have modified internally. I squared up the reed block and adjusted the reeds too. I have a new cowl on back order.
The spinner is a good call and I've done the same. With some Krylon and a good automotive metal primer plus an oven you can paint a lasting finish on the spinner. I have the same spinner as you and I'm planning on matching the paint too.
Now it will be cleaned up and ready for next season.
06-12-2017, 05:31 PM
#3322
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Hay Chris,
It is a tight fit...but the DLE 20RA does drop straight in. Ok...you kind of need to shovel it in...but if you take your time...the out come is awesome. I managed less then a 1/32" gap between my spine and my airframe...and yes...it took some time to do it. But the outcome is so cool. If you clip the wings and make a Reno racer out of it...you will go fast. I'm not sure how many RPM's the DLE 20RA can take before you pull it apart, but you can prop it up and go to a hight pitch prop. I find the Xore 17x6 is the best prop for this engine...but its for over all power and pull...not speed. Maybe 15x10 will give you more speed...but I am just guessing here. I'm not sure the exact RPM limits the engine has...but once you get the DLE 20 running properly...it hauls my Red Tail right nice on a Xore 17x6 wood prop. I used a true turn parabolic P-51 spinner. The kit spinner is nicely painted...but it is not a parabolic shaped spinner and not scale. The one installed on my model is scale and keeps the shape of the nose more scale. I only use Aluminum spinner on my models now. I had a plastic spinner explode on me once and scared me into buying only aluminum now for my models.
It took me a bit of time to get my DLE 20RA to run properly...but I pulled the carb apart and put the whole thing inside a sonic cleaner...then reassembled the carb...reinstalled it onto my model...and I managed to fix the issues. It now runs like a charm and not only easy to start but has a good reliable idle too. Got to have a reliable idle...or you will manage to treat yourself to a lot of dead stick landings. This model glides ok...just put her down fast...she doesn't glide much if you get to slow.
I love the sound of the engine in the model...just music to my ears...and brings a smile to my face.
Soft Landings Always,Bobby of Maui
It is a tight fit...but the DLE 20RA does drop straight in. Ok...you kind of need to shovel it in...but if you take your time...the out come is awesome. I managed less then a 1/32" gap between my spine and my airframe...and yes...it took some time to do it. But the outcome is so cool. If you clip the wings and make a Reno racer out of it...you will go fast. I'm not sure how many RPM's the DLE 20RA can take before you pull it apart, but you can prop it up and go to a hight pitch prop. I find the Xore 17x6 is the best prop for this engine...but its for over all power and pull...not speed. Maybe 15x10 will give you more speed...but I am just guessing here. I'm not sure the exact RPM limits the engine has...but once you get the DLE 20 running properly...it hauls my Red Tail right nice on a Xore 17x6 wood prop. I used a true turn parabolic P-51 spinner. The kit spinner is nicely painted...but it is not a parabolic shaped spinner and not scale. The one installed on my model is scale and keeps the shape of the nose more scale. I only use Aluminum spinner on my models now. I had a plastic spinner explode on me once and scared me into buying only aluminum now for my models.
It took me a bit of time to get my DLE 20RA to run properly...but I pulled the carb apart and put the whole thing inside a sonic cleaner...then reassembled the carb...reinstalled it onto my model...and I managed to fix the issues. It now runs like a charm and not only easy to start but has a good reliable idle too. Got to have a reliable idle...or you will manage to treat yourself to a lot of dead stick landings. This model glides ok...just put her down fast...she doesn't glide much if you get to slow.
I love the sound of the engine in the model...just music to my ears...and brings a smile to my face.
Soft Landings Always,Bobby of Maui
Thanks
08-07-2017, 03:11 PM
#3323
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I was afraid to fly mine at first, but after I got a couple flights in once it got dialed in, it is a pleasure to fly, and hopefully now that I got the gear angle and wheels spinning freely it will handle better on the ground. Compared to my other planes, yes it flies heavy, but it's a warbird so it has to handle heavy or it wouldn't be a warbird! Fly it to the ground and you will enjoy it, I keep power on until it crosses the threshold, then chop power and grease it in, but only ONCE did it make it on its tail, all the rest of the times it wound up on its nose, probably because the tires were rubbing on the struts. My last landing I hit a mole hole and bent one of the struts, so haven't had a chance to fly it since.
If you do get one, get Eflite retracts, they are nice and strong and work quite well with Robarts struts and wheels. The DLE 20 will fly it well, I flew mine with a Saito 100 and it flew nice, but I had issues with the elevator and wound up looping it on landing. I was on approach, went to go around and when I pulled up it flipped on its back and looped in. I solved the elevator issue, had too much throw, so make sure you set it to low rates when you fly or it will snap over at high speed. I put the Saito 100 on a Cub while I was repairing it, and got a 125 for this one, and it flies it very well with nice power and sound, but sucks the go juice so I don't get many flights in. I think the 125 is broken in now so I can fine tune the carb and hopefully reduce the amount of fuel it uses and get longer flight time.
Fly it to the ground and you will enjoy it, I keep power on until it crosses the threshold, then chop power and grease it in, but only ONCE did it make it on its tail, all the rest of the times it wound up on its nose, probably because the tires were rubbing on the struts. My last landing I hit a mole hole and bent one of the struts, so haven't had a chance to fly it since.If you do get one, get Eflite retracts, they are nice and strong and work quite well with Robarts struts and wheels. The DLE 20 will fly it well, I flew mine with a Saito 100 and it flew nice, but I had issues with the elevator and wound up looping it on landing. I was on approach, went to go around and when I pulled up it flipped on its back and looped in. I solved the elevator issue, had too much throw, so make sure you set it to low rates when you fly or it will snap over at high speed. I put the Saito 100 on a Cub while I was repairing it, and got a 125 for this one, and it flies it very well with nice power and sound, but sucks the go juice so I don't get many flights in. I think the 125 is broken in now so I can fine tune the carb and hopefully reduce the amount of fuel it uses and get longer flight time.
Do you have links to the Eflite retracts and Robart struts that you used?
08-07-2017, 04:01 PM
#3324
I used the same setup as acdii I believe. Eflite 60-120 85 degree main retracts. I did not use Robart struts because I think they are way overpriced for what you get. Instead I used HK Turnigy struts but they required heavy modification to work with the retracts. A more "plug and play" option would be to use the Robart struts. The Eflite strut ready retracts require a 10mm strut diameter, the Robart 3/8 struts are very close.
08-10-2017, 06:48 PM
#3325
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Thanks, I think I found the one's you guys used. 60 - 120 85 Degree Main Electric Retracts (EFLG410): E-flite - Advancing Electric Flight What size battery are you using and how many rotations do you get on one charge?