drifter

My Feedback: (53)

Did ESM (KMP) change the makeup of the later Corsairs?
I have an earlier one. it weighs 16 1/4 pounds. (took it out and reweighed it to make sure)
It has an OS 160 and Sierra gear (the ESM was not acceptable), plus about 2 pounds of lead on the firewall.
Why are the later ones so heavy? Would all the additions mentioned above add 8 pounds?

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Yes, I bet it would. I don't think ESM are doing anything differently....but I've only seen my kit. I think the main kit components and the sierra gear was around 11 lbs out of the box. 12S packs alone are just under 4 lbs (3.75). Remember I take off AND land at the same weight. Add to that the speakers, custom scale tailwheel, lined cowl with carbon fiber cloth, extra paint in the detailing...etc, it can really add up. I have 2x 6S 910 mAh packs for the sound system as well as a 6V 2500mAh RX pack. I may be a little nose heavy, but I'm OK with that.

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

Mine weighed 17.75 lbs. That included 1lb of nose weight. empty of fuel.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Sean , congrats , and great job on the build and proveing the bird flys very well in the hands of an experienced pilot

nzphil

Hi P51Tom,
Can you tell how long those 7/32 sq brass tubes you used on your flap system where? Looking at the photo's I would reckon about 3/8 is that about right?
I've seen that a lot of people have retractable tail wheel doors as well but haven't sen any post on how they might be done. Could do with a clue how to start.[sm=confused.gif]
Thanks,
Phil

p51tom

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Phil
You can cut them as long as you want. I cut the Robart Hinge Points a little shorter then cut the tubes long enough to hold the hinges. I also use longer tubes in larger models. I did not bother with tail wheel doors for a sport plane. I did use them my Top Fight giant Corsair, P51, and P47. I hinged the doors with Dubro pinned hinges then ran a spring from one door to the other. The spring keeps them open then when the tail wheel retracks it pulls them closed. Very simple but it works great. Let me know if you need a better discription and I will post some photos.
Good Luck P51Tom

nzphil

Hi P51Tom,
Thanks for the info but I don't think I asked my question in the right way[sm=75_75.gif].
What I really ment was how far out of the main wing did the sq brass protrude!!
Would be very grateful for some photos of the gear door spring system when you have the time.
Many thanks,
Phil

p51tom

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Phil, My brass tubes extend 7/8" from trailing edge of wing. I glue them last. Complete all the flap hinges then hook up everything and check clearance when flaps are up. I use a strip in 1/32 ply as a spacer between the overhang and the top of the flaps. When all looks good I use med CA to glue the bass tubes. Be careful not to glue the hinge point at this time. After everything is painted I glue the hinges in with 30 min epozy. I am senting some photos of my TFGS P47 tail wheel doors. On these doors I used Nelson hinges.
Good Luck
P51Tom

nzphil

Thanks P51Tom its now all clear in my mind[sm=regular_smile.gif] & I can start designing the jigs to get the hinges in the same line every time.
Cheers,
Phil

tmaucher

Does the side picture of your corsair show a body flex behind the cockpit. If it does that is pretty serious oilcanning and could definately lead to structural failure. Does anybody else see what Im seeing? Hope its an optical illusion and good luck

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I see it but not sure how some distortion in the glass in that particular spot could lead to structural failure.

MsgtRob

Here's another option...

lynn1130

My Feedback: (10)

I am looking for a replacement CMP (KMP) aluminum tailwheel. I have worn mine out (the tire) and am having a problem finding a replacement tire so it looks like I have to replace the entire wheel unless someone has a suggestion. So- I am hoping that someone out there has a spare that is in good shape that they would be willing to part with.

Thanks

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Been getting quite a few flights on my ESM F4U and enjoying it. Have changed out the motor and ESC, now running a 20x10 and it seems perfect.

Here's video clip montage from flights 3 + 4. I'm up to 8 on it now. [8D]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_p4Pa...el_video_title

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Made a little clip with the pilot...I need to raise the camera up a bit next time.

Enjoy. [8D]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoDyt...el_video_title

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

you need to make the video public...

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

I did, but I guess you can only see it through here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/scalercer?feature=mhee

Btw, that's your cockpit kit around pappy! ;-)

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

OK, sorry for the confusion, I deleted the file and uploaded it again as public. This link should work:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQxuqNakV2c

Quality will improve after it's finished it's upload.

Johnny_Zero

My Feedback: (44)

Cool!

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Cool vid what camera are you using?

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

On my 'hat cam' I've mounted my flip HD camera and on the plane is a key fob video camera.

jwjohnson

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm about half way through the build on mine. It will be electric powered.
Jeff

nzphil

Hi Guys,
I thought I had posted the first of my contributions of making my Corsair more scale like but it must have been another forum or it didnā€™t post.[sm=confused.gif]
Anyway, I donā€™t want the switches or air bits on view so have come up with ways of disguising them.
Thanks to Sean the sliding canopy frame works well & using the hobbyking servo slow shuts a tad faster than it opens.
Somewhere in this or one other forum somebody showed using the planes aerial as the operator of the Rx switch.
As any aerial is prone to being swiped off during transportation or when working on the fuselage I decided on a detachable one.
I started by laying up some fibreglass over the area that the rear aerial would be fitted & left it to go off.
I then cut two pieces of brass tube about 3ā€ long, the larger 5/16th dia, that slide within each other.
Making the inner some Ā½ā€ longer that the outer I gently formed them into an oval similar to that of the Ali streamline tube. Once happy with the shape I pulled them apart, easy with the Ā½ā€ over hang, & with a bit of adjustment with some fine wet & dry paper got then sliding within each other as before.
I then cut a piece just over an inch long off the inner one & a 1/16 wide piece off the outer one. This was super glued to the inner Ā½ā€œ from one end. This was then pushed into a length of hard balsa the gap between the ring & balsa filled with body filler & the whole thing shaped to that of the aerial length & profile.

nzphil

There should have been a photo at the end of the last post, never mind Iā€™ll post all the photos at the end.
Next was to slide the inner & outer section with the aerial together & with a piece of Ali pushed between them a blunt nail was used to put a ā€œdimpleā€ in them. They were then pulled apart & worked together a few times until the slid easily again but locked together with a satisfying click when the dimple engaged.
When the fibreglass was cured a previously made flat section was trimmed to shape to fit inside the curve & epoxied to the fuselage section. When doing this make sure the flat section is at the correct angle to have the aerial exiting the fuselage at the right angle, I didnā€™t, so my angle is a bit out but not that noticeable.
The switch was mounted on the assembly after drilling & tapping the arm with a 2mm thread.
A piece of the outer tube then set into the top of the assembly with the top of the tube proud so it would be about level or just above the fuselage when fitted.
Part of the glue that they use to fit the fuselage together must be ground away with a dremel or similar to get a good mating between the fuselage & switch assembly.
A pocket was then drilled in the bottom of the aerial section so the switch arm would not be fouled when the aerial was inserted.
The assembly was then epoxied into the fuselage, the 2mm switch arm cut to the right length & a small section of tube super glued to it to make pulling to the ā€˜offā€™ position easier.
The remaining pieces I kept & made a dummy aerial bottom to fit into the socket when I spray so paint doesnā€™t get into the tube.
Hopefully when I add the pictures it will all become a lot clearer.
Iā€™m still waiting for my retracts & air stuff to come so Iā€™ll post how I hid those bits when their done.
Cheers,
Phil

lynn1130

My Feedback: (10)

I am now down for repairs and so I thought that I would post this as a word of warning to those of you still building. To those that are flying it is a word of warning for inspection.
My engine decided to quit in flight so, no biggy. I dropped the gear, set up for a dead stick and lined up on the runway. My speed got a little low as I was about a foot above the runway and the plane set down a little hard on the left main. Not hard enough to damage the gear or gear mounting area but hard enough to snap the wing panel joiner (which is very week plywood). The panel came completely off and stuck the rear stab taking about 2 inches off of the horizontal.

In all the damages are very minor compared to what it could have been had the joiner failed in flight. I will be replacing the wing panel a carbon fiber joiner and reinforcing the other wing.

Oh, and if anyone has a joiner that was not installed and they would like to part with, I could use a template.