Portable Paint Booth
11-03-2008, 02:40 PM
#1
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Portable Paint Booth
Does anybody have any info on building a portable paint booth in the shop, I paint mostly with a HVLP system (Tired of going outside to paint) Any help would be appreciated.[sm=drowning.gif]
11-03-2008, 04:16 PM
#2
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Portable Paint Booth
simple if you use 2x2's to build a frame wall with screws, 2' on center is fine,then use clear visqueen, I like the 4 mil. because its a little heavier as your wallcovering, and staple it to the framing.
if you have a corner of a room then a "L" shaped partition floor to ceiling is perfect,a old set of door hinges screwed to the corner works well for holding the partitions then just pull the pins and you can stack the light wood,and plastic frames in a corner when not using it.
for the floor I use red rosin paper 1roll will last a lifetime once it gets dirty then just roll another layer over the last, and keeps the area clean.
I like the clear plastic for the walls, so light comes through,for a door just overlap the plastic at a seam a couple of feet for a extra durable wall just double up the plastic but 1 layer is enough.
now depending on your material your spraying if its latex then you really don't need to worry too much about a air ventalation/circulation system just open the curtain after your work is done and allow room air flow to dry and vent the fumes.
for more toxic material like oil based paint, or automotive, then a cheap system is a house box fan placed in one of the framing bays.
duct tape the clear plastic to the fan and a charcoal heater filter works well for reducing the fumes,you may not need a filter in De. if you want to direct the fumes even more then some flexable heater ducting from Home Depot works great a heavy cardboard baffle,or light plywood piece with a hole cut into it keeps the air in the duct,the other end goes into a window frame and directs the fumes outdoors this system works well for fume control.
for the air inlet you use another filter in a bay oppisite the fan,and high up the wall for cross venalation, you place it high so the fan is drawing fresh air from the room,if its directly across from the fan it makes a vortex and alot of air movement,higher up the wall and its a smooth flow of inlet air,and the filter helps prevent exessive dust just a few staples and some duct tape does wonders for keeping things sealed.
I have done this method for many projects including doors in houses,and cabanets, where I partition a large area off for spraying but it can be done in a small corner of your work area.
there are alot of comercial poles for holding plastic sheeting as well but the 2x2 sticks work just as well.
the method I described is pretty cheap and can be done for less than 100$ and will give you professional results,I am a painting contractor so I have to do this stuff all the time.
if you have a corner of a room then a "L" shaped partition floor to ceiling is perfect,a old set of door hinges screwed to the corner works well for holding the partitions then just pull the pins and you can stack the light wood,and plastic frames in a corner when not using it.
for the floor I use red rosin paper 1roll will last a lifetime once it gets dirty then just roll another layer over the last, and keeps the area clean.
I like the clear plastic for the walls, so light comes through,for a door just overlap the plastic at a seam a couple of feet for a extra durable wall just double up the plastic but 1 layer is enough.
now depending on your material your spraying if its latex then you really don't need to worry too much about a air ventalation/circulation system just open the curtain after your work is done and allow room air flow to dry and vent the fumes.
for more toxic material like oil based paint, or automotive, then a cheap system is a house box fan placed in one of the framing bays.
duct tape the clear plastic to the fan and a charcoal heater filter works well for reducing the fumes,you may not need a filter in De. if you want to direct the fumes even more then some flexable heater ducting from Home Depot works great a heavy cardboard baffle,or light plywood piece with a hole cut into it keeps the air in the duct,the other end goes into a window frame and directs the fumes outdoors this system works well for fume control.
for the air inlet you use another filter in a bay oppisite the fan,and high up the wall for cross venalation, you place it high so the fan is drawing fresh air from the room,if its directly across from the fan it makes a vortex and alot of air movement,higher up the wall and its a smooth flow of inlet air,and the filter helps prevent exessive dust just a few staples and some duct tape does wonders for keeping things sealed.
I have done this method for many projects including doors in houses,and cabanets, where I partition a large area off for spraying but it can be done in a small corner of your work area.
there are alot of comercial poles for holding plastic sheeting as well but the 2x2 sticks work just as well.
the method I described is pretty cheap and can be done for less than 100$ and will give you professional results,I am a painting contractor so I have to do this stuff all the time.
11-04-2008, 02:27 PM
#4
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Portable Paint Booth
I should add for a nice tight seal at the entry door one of those sealing zippers works great,after the plastic is layed over the wall you just stick it on and with a razor knife slice the plastic as you open the zipper.
another handy item that you can get at the local paint or hardware store I use alot of, just a small added expense, but it keeps the odor under control.
another handy item that you can get at the local paint or hardware store I use alot of, just a small added expense, but it keeps the odor under control.
11-04-2008, 04:33 PM
#5
Senior Member
RE: Portable Paint Booth
Build your portable booth out of 1/2" or 3/4" PVC. You basically build two big squares (mine is about 5' x 4', from 1/2" PVC) with 90Ëš side inlet elbows in each corner.
These are the base and the top of the booth. Then you have an 8' piece of pvc for each of the four corners. Drape and clamp plastic sheet over and around your structure, leaving an overlap entry.
When done painting, strip off the sheeting and discard. Then the booth breaks down into the two large squares and 4 corners posts. It can store flat against the wall, and easily be re-assembled for that next project.
I've used the same booth for about 6 or 7 painting sessions over the last 3 or 4 years. The thin mil painters plastic sheeting is cheep. Always have some on hand for assembling your paintbooth.
Good luck and have fun.
Paul
These are the base and the top of the booth. Then you have an 8' piece of pvc for each of the four corners. Drape and clamp plastic sheet over and around your structure, leaving an overlap entry.
When done painting, strip off the sheeting and discard. Then the booth breaks down into the two large squares and 4 corners posts. It can store flat against the wall, and easily be re-assembled for that next project.
I've used the same booth for about 6 or 7 painting sessions over the last 3 or 4 years. The thin mil painters plastic sheeting is cheep. Always have some on hand for assembling your paintbooth.
Good luck and have fun.
Paul
