My old YA P-47 Build
10-25-2010, 08:14 PM
#51
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RE: My old YA P-47 Build
Dash,
I finally flew mine again and still like it. As to the inner gear doors, I started with the wire thing and it was a disaster. I ended up with it causing a gear to hang up and the resulting belly landing. I changed it out for to mini servos and just used a mix on my radio. up and the gear goes first then a delay and the doors close. The reverse for gear down. It seemed to me a fairly simple solution provided you have the right kind of transmitter.
BTW I tried the cork method to start my Moki and was less than impressed. I think the best way is to start it inverted in a cradle and then subsequent starts are a lot easier. That being said A starter that will turn the Moki over is the easiest solution.
Regards,
Dave
I finally flew mine again and still like it. As to the inner gear doors, I started with the wire thing and it was a disaster. I ended up with it causing a gear to hang up and the resulting belly landing. I changed it out for to mini servos and just used a mix on my radio. up and the gear goes first then a delay and the doors close. The reverse for gear down. It seemed to me a fairly simple solution provided you have the right kind of transmitter.
BTW I tried the cork method to start my Moki and was less than impressed. I think the best way is to start it inverted in a cradle and then subsequent starts are a lot easier. That being said A starter that will turn the Moki over is the easiest solution.
Regards,
Dave
11-25-2010, 02:17 PM
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RE: My old YA P-47 Build
More detailing and finishing techniques, but first......
JL1 As for starting my Moki, I just bought a Sullivan Dynatron on EBay. I haven't tried it yet, but I think it will work just fine.
OK! This post should have been done months ago, but I got carried away in finishing the BAB in time for my club's scale fly-in and didn't take the time for this. Sorry
I'm going to start with the basics of doing panel lines on a painted finish. If you hope to have a good scale finish and correct details, you have to have some good documentation showing all of the panel lines in your subject model. The several sources I had to go by did not all agree. I knew the plane I chose to do was a restoration and the drawing of the scheme did not agree with the photos I had of the red nose outline, so I went with the photos. I could not find a photo of the orginial BAB during WW II until AFTER the model was painted. It turns out none of my material matched the scheme in the nose area on top of the cowl. Oh well......
Panel lines on a painted model typically are done using 1/64" black drafting tape. There are two ways this is used. The first requires that the tape be put on the model and just painted over. This leaves the tape or panel lines protruding and is U G L Y ! The most accurate requires that the tape be placed in the desired location and then do your priming over it. When the tape is removed, you have a shallow fine indentation that shows up very well when painted. I usually do almost all of my prime work up to what I expect to be the last coat of primer and then lay out my panel lines with a fine line sharpie felt tip or soft pencil. This is where it pays to be accurate, as the location of your graphics will depend a lot on the panel line location. Once you have layed out the panels, then go over them with the 1/64" tape. I recommend the crepe style as it's heavy enough to peel off easily. There is a very thin mylar type available and it just didn't work for me. NOTE: if your subject model had overlapping panels, and you want to duplicate that, it requires a completely different technique, and I cannot comment on it, as I haven't tried that.
The photos below show the aft end of my fuselege after the tape has been applied and several coats of primer have been airbrushed over them. It's not neccessary to do the entire surface, but you can put your tape on after the first thin coat of primer and leave it there until you are ready for paint. Once the tape is removed, a very light sanding with 600 paper will reveal your panel lines.
The antenna on the rear may be worth commenting on. I first drilled out the piece of wood I was using and epoxied in a 4-40 screw with the head cut off. Then I shaped and finished the antenna. For inside the model, I glued a blind nut to the back of a small piece of plywood and screwed the antenna down tight to the fuselege with epoxy on the plywood. Be sure to put some vaselene on the screw so it can be removed. By mounting it prior to the final finish I could remove it and the paint added just enough material to make it a tight fit when it is put on so it doesn't come off too easily.
The second photo shows the primed model with the tape removed (still in place in the first photos) and the rudder and elevator on in a trial fit. Details for the nose art and other graphics will come in follow up posts.
JL1 As for starting my Moki, I just bought a Sullivan Dynatron on EBay. I haven't tried it yet, but I think it will work just fine.
OK! This post should have been done months ago, but I got carried away in finishing the BAB in time for my club's scale fly-in and didn't take the time for this. Sorry
I'm going to start with the basics of doing panel lines on a painted finish. If you hope to have a good scale finish and correct details, you have to have some good documentation showing all of the panel lines in your subject model. The several sources I had to go by did not all agree. I knew the plane I chose to do was a restoration and the drawing of the scheme did not agree with the photos I had of the red nose outline, so I went with the photos. I could not find a photo of the orginial BAB during WW II until AFTER the model was painted. It turns out none of my material matched the scheme in the nose area on top of the cowl. Oh well......
Panel lines on a painted model typically are done using 1/64" black drafting tape. There are two ways this is used. The first requires that the tape be put on the model and just painted over. This leaves the tape or panel lines protruding and is U G L Y ! The most accurate requires that the tape be placed in the desired location and then do your priming over it. When the tape is removed, you have a shallow fine indentation that shows up very well when painted. I usually do almost all of my prime work up to what I expect to be the last coat of primer and then lay out my panel lines with a fine line sharpie felt tip or soft pencil. This is where it pays to be accurate, as the location of your graphics will depend a lot on the panel line location. Once you have layed out the panels, then go over them with the 1/64" tape. I recommend the crepe style as it's heavy enough to peel off easily. There is a very thin mylar type available and it just didn't work for me. NOTE: if your subject model had overlapping panels, and you want to duplicate that, it requires a completely different technique, and I cannot comment on it, as I haven't tried that.
The photos below show the aft end of my fuselege after the tape has been applied and several coats of primer have been airbrushed over them. It's not neccessary to do the entire surface, but you can put your tape on after the first thin coat of primer and leave it there until you are ready for paint. Once the tape is removed, a very light sanding with 600 paper will reveal your panel lines.
The antenna on the rear may be worth commenting on. I first drilled out the piece of wood I was using and epoxied in a 4-40 screw with the head cut off. Then I shaped and finished the antenna. For inside the model, I glued a blind nut to the back of a small piece of plywood and screwed the antenna down tight to the fuselege with epoxy on the plywood. Be sure to put some vaselene on the screw so it can be removed. By mounting it prior to the final finish I could remove it and the paint added just enough material to make it a tight fit when it is put on so it doesn't come off too easily.
The second photo shows the primed model with the tape removed (still in place in the first photos) and the rudder and elevator on in a trial fit. Details for the nose art and other graphics will come in follow up posts.
11-25-2010, 03:38 PM
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RE: My old YA P-47 Build
Here we go again. It's Thanksgiving and the wife and I are going to friends for dinner, so I have some time....
This post will deal with doing your own graphics. If you are familiar with photo shop or some other program which allows you to resize your work, you are probably already familiar with what this will cover. I have done my own markings on several scale models and you'd be surprised at how much you can do yourself if you take the time. You can make your own decals using decal paper from Micro-Mark, the small tool folks. Do a Google search and they come right up.
One thing you will need when doing this is the proper fonts for your model. A Google search will help you find these as well. If you know the nomenclature for your stincils, and have the right fonts, you can make decals. For large markings, you need to become familiar with Friskit film. See photo below. This is a thin vinyl film on which you either draw or print your marking, and then place it on your model and cut our what will be painted. If effect, you are cutting out the stincil in place on the model. This will not work on a film or fabric open surface such as between ribs or a tubing type fuselege. I have only used it on glassed surfaces.
The stincil or Friskit is prepared by first creating a properly sized drawing of your marking. This can be the stars, numbers, nose art, etc that you intend to paint on the model. The film is taped over the drawing and then traced for each color to be painted. For instance, for a two color star and bar set, such as white and blue, you make two tracings for each star on the model. (this seems like a lot of work, but it goes quickly). The finished friskit is then placed on the model. This material has a peel off backing like shelf paper. The film is very thin and fairly low tack, but it will stick to itself, so be careful. Once in the desired location and rubbed down well, cut out the area to be painted. You will want a good supply of #11 Exacto blades for this. It takes very little pressure with a new blade and you shouldn't need enough pressure to go through a .5 oz glass wing skin. If you do, you are using too much pressure or you have a dull blade. After painting the first color, peel off the friskit film and lightly sand the edges of your work with 500 wet or dry. Place the second friskit over the first, carefully matching the edges, and cut out for the next color. I usually do not paint one color over another, rather by carefully cutting the friskit, try to lay the paint of one color right against the other. It's not as difficult as it sounds. A light wet sanding with fine paper, and you can't feel the color separation line.
A look at the photo below will show how the friskit looks in place ready to paint.
The leading edges of the rudder and elevators on the P-47 appear to be wrapped with aluminum with the aft edge cut to match the rib location. I used friskit to mask off that edge and built up the edge with primer. You can see my drawings, the tracings and ready to paint elevators in the photos. I should point out that the surface to be painted needs to be hard and ready for your final finish. The shot below of me holding an elevator shows the friskit having been cut away on the rounded leading edge, and still in place on the aft surface.
The last two photos show what can be done using this technique. I did all of the markings on a Jet Hanger Hobby F-86. The unit patch was about 2.5 inches high. In this case, once I had the patch sized to my liking, I printed it several times and placed the copies on one sheet and printed them on a lazer printer. This ensured that each one was exactly the same size. The Friskit had to be taped to a sheet of paper to go through the printer without fouling.
This post will deal with doing your own graphics. If you are familiar with photo shop or some other program which allows you to resize your work, you are probably already familiar with what this will cover. I have done my own markings on several scale models and you'd be surprised at how much you can do yourself if you take the time. You can make your own decals using decal paper from Micro-Mark, the small tool folks. Do a Google search and they come right up.
One thing you will need when doing this is the proper fonts for your model. A Google search will help you find these as well. If you know the nomenclature for your stincils, and have the right fonts, you can make decals. For large markings, you need to become familiar with Friskit film. See photo below. This is a thin vinyl film on which you either draw or print your marking, and then place it on your model and cut our what will be painted. If effect, you are cutting out the stincil in place on the model. This will not work on a film or fabric open surface such as between ribs or a tubing type fuselege. I have only used it on glassed surfaces.
The stincil or Friskit is prepared by first creating a properly sized drawing of your marking. This can be the stars, numbers, nose art, etc that you intend to paint on the model. The film is taped over the drawing and then traced for each color to be painted. For instance, for a two color star and bar set, such as white and blue, you make two tracings for each star on the model. (this seems like a lot of work, but it goes quickly). The finished friskit is then placed on the model. This material has a peel off backing like shelf paper. The film is very thin and fairly low tack, but it will stick to itself, so be careful. Once in the desired location and rubbed down well, cut out the area to be painted. You will want a good supply of #11 Exacto blades for this. It takes very little pressure with a new blade and you shouldn't need enough pressure to go through a .5 oz glass wing skin. If you do, you are using too much pressure or you have a dull blade. After painting the first color, peel off the friskit film and lightly sand the edges of your work with 500 wet or dry. Place the second friskit over the first, carefully matching the edges, and cut out for the next color. I usually do not paint one color over another, rather by carefully cutting the friskit, try to lay the paint of one color right against the other. It's not as difficult as it sounds. A light wet sanding with fine paper, and you can't feel the color separation line.
A look at the photo below will show how the friskit looks in place ready to paint.
The leading edges of the rudder and elevators on the P-47 appear to be wrapped with aluminum with the aft edge cut to match the rib location. I used friskit to mask off that edge and built up the edge with primer. You can see my drawings, the tracings and ready to paint elevators in the photos. I should point out that the surface to be painted needs to be hard and ready for your final finish. The shot below of me holding an elevator shows the friskit having been cut away on the rounded leading edge, and still in place on the aft surface.
The last two photos show what can be done using this technique. I did all of the markings on a Jet Hanger Hobby F-86. The unit patch was about 2.5 inches high. In this case, once I had the patch sized to my liking, I printed it several times and placed the copies on one sheet and printed them on a lazer printer. This ensured that each one was exactly the same size. The Friskit had to be taped to a sheet of paper to go through the printer without fouling.
11-25-2010, 09:56 PM
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RE: My old YA P-47 Build
Nose art and tail numbers:
The plane named Big ASS Bird II had a lot of color and the number of graphic details (or lack of ) really appealed to me, so I picked it from about six planes I had good details on. I had several good photos showing the nose area, as well as a color plate in a book on the P-47. Comparing the photos with the color plate showed a difference in how the OD anti-glare area on the nose and the red flash on the cowl came together. I went with the photos in that area.
I did the paint masking with regular 3M blue fine line masking tape. For the name I worked with the scanned color plate ( I also found the same plate online) to remove the back ground and to resize it to fit the model. My first intent was to make a water slide decal of the name and just apply it when the painting was finished. I did this and it came out looking very good. AS it got close to the time to apply it, I became concerned that it might not be opaque enough to go over the color changes without them showing through. I'll follow up on this line of thought shortly, but first lets develop the graphic.
The first photo shows the full side view from the online colorplate. The second shows it cropped to the very edges of the name. Here is where having accurate panel lines (mentioned in a prior post) comes into play. I marked the panel line location on this detail for location referance later and to aid in sizing the name. Then I measured on the model where the ends of the BAB graphic would be for a total overall size of my decal. My printing program made printing it out a pretty simple step once I had that demension. I made several copies on regular paper to check for fit before I printed it on the decal paper sheet. Since the total length of the name was around 19 inches, I had to break it into two parts, hence BIG ASS and BIRD II. Again the panel lines were on the sheet for referance.
I have added a photo of the full size BAB to show the difference on the upper cowl of where the red stops and the OD panel starts.
As I said, I had some doubts if the decal would cover the area where the red flash and silver met without having the red show through. What to do? I considered having a dry transfer made by ProMark Graphics and I called them and talked to Jerry, the owner. I sent him my decal file so he could see my concern, and he recommended a vinyl stincil of the outline and paint that area white first, and then place the decal over it. That sounded like a good solution, so I went with that idea. ProMark also had a sheet of transfers for the nomenclature of the P-47, so I got that at the same time. This was a good idea.
I used the stincil and painted the white back ground for the BAB decal. After that was done, I decided heck, I'll just paint the name as well, so I placed some friskit over it and cut out the yellow area and painted it. Then another Friskit and cut out the outline for the black border. It sounds like a lot of trouble, but I'll never have to be concerned about problems with a decal.
The tail numbers were done slightly different. I had a page from an old model magazine showing the layout of the block numbers and letters of planes of WW II. I drew out the numbers all to the same size and scanned them into my photo shop program. After resizeing them and filiing them in black, I formatted them into my tail number, and printed out my decal. The photos show one number, and the final decal I made. I think they came out pretty well.
The plane named Big ASS Bird II had a lot of color and the number of graphic details (or lack of ) really appealed to me, so I picked it from about six planes I had good details on. I had several good photos showing the nose area, as well as a color plate in a book on the P-47. Comparing the photos with the color plate showed a difference in how the OD anti-glare area on the nose and the red flash on the cowl came together. I went with the photos in that area.
I did the paint masking with regular 3M blue fine line masking tape. For the name I worked with the scanned color plate ( I also found the same plate online) to remove the back ground and to resize it to fit the model. My first intent was to make a water slide decal of the name and just apply it when the painting was finished. I did this and it came out looking very good. AS it got close to the time to apply it, I became concerned that it might not be opaque enough to go over the color changes without them showing through. I'll follow up on this line of thought shortly, but first lets develop the graphic.
The first photo shows the full side view from the online colorplate. The second shows it cropped to the very edges of the name. Here is where having accurate panel lines (mentioned in a prior post) comes into play. I marked the panel line location on this detail for location referance later and to aid in sizing the name. Then I measured on the model where the ends of the BAB graphic would be for a total overall size of my decal. My printing program made printing it out a pretty simple step once I had that demension. I made several copies on regular paper to check for fit before I printed it on the decal paper sheet. Since the total length of the name was around 19 inches, I had to break it into two parts, hence BIG ASS and BIRD II. Again the panel lines were on the sheet for referance.
I have added a photo of the full size BAB to show the difference on the upper cowl of where the red stops and the OD panel starts.
As I said, I had some doubts if the decal would cover the area where the red flash and silver met without having the red show through. What to do? I considered having a dry transfer made by ProMark Graphics and I called them and talked to Jerry, the owner. I sent him my decal file so he could see my concern, and he recommended a vinyl stincil of the outline and paint that area white first, and then place the decal over it. That sounded like a good solution, so I went with that idea. ProMark also had a sheet of transfers for the nomenclature of the P-47, so I got that at the same time. This was a good idea.
I used the stincil and painted the white back ground for the BAB decal. After that was done, I decided heck, I'll just paint the name as well, so I placed some friskit over it and cut out the yellow area and painted it. Then another Friskit and cut out the outline for the black border. It sounds like a lot of trouble, but I'll never have to be concerned about problems with a decal.
The tail numbers were done slightly different. I had a page from an old model magazine showing the layout of the block numbers and letters of planes of WW II. I drew out the numbers all to the same size and scanned them into my photo shop program. After resizeing them and filiing them in black, I formatted them into my tail number, and printed out my decal. The photos show one number, and the final decal I made. I think they came out pretty well.
11-25-2010, 10:48 PM
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RE: My old YA P-47 Build
Wrapping it all up!
My final post will deal with my canopy and some finishing concerns. Since this was the early P-47 kit from Yellow Aircraft, all I got was a blown canopy. It did not come with a fiberglass frame like most kits do today. I inquired at YA if the canopy for the present day kit would fit my fuselege and he said "NO". Shucks!! Well, that's close to what I said........... So I had to work with masking and painting the canopy and attaching it to the model and try not to make a mess doing it.
I don't know about you fellows, but usually by the time I'm ready to use the canopy, it's been dropped on the floor, and scratched. Or in fitting it to a FG frame ( I don't have) it gets scratched. It can be polished out, I suppose, but I would rather sand it out. You heard me right. Sand it out. HUH! Many years ago I had a small F-86 flip on landing and it slid down the runway upside down. This really scratched the canopy pretty badly. Someone at the field recommended that I sand out the scratches with 500 or 600 wet or dry sandpaper, and then clear coat it. Well, I must say I had my doubts just likeyou might, but I did it. The canopy assumed an even, frosted appearance. However, when I shot it with a clear K & B epoxy coat, it just sparkled, like, better than new! Now I use an automotive clearcoat for my gloss finishes, and it works great.
Since my canopy had some scratches, I decided to do this. I used 600 grit wet and did the inside and outside. My biggest problem with the finish on this plane was that there were three different levels of finish I wanted to achieve. First, I wanted the aluminum to look weathered; not shinny or polished. Second, the red painted area and the name appeared to be new paint and shinny, and third, the OD on the top would have been flat or at least dull. Achieving this took some head scratching, and a lot of masking.
The photos below show my canopy in different stages of clear coating, masking off the different colors, and the final product. You can see how much difference the clear coat makes. This canopy was a little hazy to start with, so I came out better than new. The front panels had to be clear coated but the frame had to be the dull olive drab. Once it was clear coated, I masked off everything but the frame and shot it with the OD. As you can see, I use 1/8 inch fine line tape for the initial masking and then just put a piece of Friskit over the whole thing, cut down the center of the tape and I'm ready to paint. Of course, the interior of the fram has to be painted as well to look correct. There is a lot of work in this one small area.
Completely unrelated, but over looked earlier, is how I did my servo and air lines through the wheel well area. I think the photos speak for themselves.
If you have any questions, just put it up here or sen me a PM and I'll try to answer as well as I can'
I'm not professing these techniques to be the best way to solve certain problems, but to show you how I did it. These forums are the best educational idea to come along in a long while, and there are many ways to skin a cat. Do some brousing here on RCUniverse and you can learn a lot!
Joe
My final post will deal with my canopy and some finishing concerns. Since this was the early P-47 kit from Yellow Aircraft, all I got was a blown canopy. It did not come with a fiberglass frame like most kits do today. I inquired at YA if the canopy for the present day kit would fit my fuselege and he said "NO". Shucks!! Well, that's close to what I said........... So I had to work with masking and painting the canopy and attaching it to the model and try not to make a mess doing it.
I don't know about you fellows, but usually by the time I'm ready to use the canopy, it's been dropped on the floor, and scratched. Or in fitting it to a FG frame ( I don't have) it gets scratched. It can be polished out, I suppose, but I would rather sand it out. You heard me right. Sand it out. HUH! Many years ago I had a small F-86 flip on landing and it slid down the runway upside down. This really scratched the canopy pretty badly. Someone at the field recommended that I sand out the scratches with 500 or 600 wet or dry sandpaper, and then clear coat it. Well, I must say I had my doubts just likeyou might, but I did it. The canopy assumed an even, frosted appearance. However, when I shot it with a clear K & B epoxy coat, it just sparkled, like, better than new! Now I use an automotive clearcoat for my gloss finishes, and it works great.
Since my canopy had some scratches, I decided to do this. I used 600 grit wet and did the inside and outside. My biggest problem with the finish on this plane was that there were three different levels of finish I wanted to achieve. First, I wanted the aluminum to look weathered; not shinny or polished. Second, the red painted area and the name appeared to be new paint and shinny, and third, the OD on the top would have been flat or at least dull. Achieving this took some head scratching, and a lot of masking.
The photos below show my canopy in different stages of clear coating, masking off the different colors, and the final product. You can see how much difference the clear coat makes. This canopy was a little hazy to start with, so I came out better than new. The front panels had to be clear coated but the frame had to be the dull olive drab. Once it was clear coated, I masked off everything but the frame and shot it with the OD. As you can see, I use 1/8 inch fine line tape for the initial masking and then just put a piece of Friskit over the whole thing, cut down the center of the tape and I'm ready to paint. Of course, the interior of the fram has to be painted as well to look correct. There is a lot of work in this one small area.
Completely unrelated, but over looked earlier, is how I did my servo and air lines through the wheel well area. I think the photos speak for themselves.
If you have any questions, just put it up here or sen me a PM and I'll try to answer as well as I can'
I'm not professing these techniques to be the best way to solve certain problems, but to show you how I did it. These forums are the best educational idea to come along in a long while, and there are many ways to skin a cat. Do some brousing here on RCUniverse and you can learn a lot!
Joe
12-11-2012, 06:30 PM
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RE: My old YA P-47 Build
ORIGINAL: tailskid
A VERY well done build thread! Yadidgood
A VERY well done build thread! Yadidgood
Joe
11-10-2014, 12:52 PM
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I've been working on my Bert Baker P-47 for awhile now. (Summer was here so I took a break from it) I just finished mounting the wing to the fuselage and now it's time to install the horizontal stab. There are no incidence numbers for the tail in the instructions or the print, and there is a lot of room for adjustment in the saddle for the stab. What should I set the stab to, and do you have any suggestions for mounting the stab?
11-14-2014, 06:29 PM
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I've been working on my Bert Baker P-47 for awhile now. (Summer was here so I took a break from it) I just finished mounting the wing to the fuselage and now it's time to install the horizontal stab. There are no incidence numbers for the tail in the instructions or the print, and there is a lot of room for adjustment in the saddle for the stab. What should I set the stab to, and do you have any suggestions for mounting the stab?
Sorry I've taken so long to give you an answer. It's been a long time since I mounted the Stab, but if I'm not mistaken, the opening in the fuselage for the stab was a pretty close fit, so I just slid it in an epoxied it in place. Does your fuselage have the stab fairings molded in? I'm pretty sure mine did.
Sorry if this doesn't help.
Joe
11-14-2014, 08:12 PM
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Yes, mine has the fairings molded in, but there's about an 1/8" of an inch to move it up or down. Pretty sloppy if you ask me. I got an email from Ziroli, and Mike told me they set all of their P-47's with 1 degree positive incidence. It's not a lot, but almost everyone said it requires a little up trim for level flight. Once I get the elevators built, I'll get the stab mounted and post some pictures of my progress. This is my first warbird. It sure is time consuming, compared to building an Extra 300.
11-15-2014, 05:08 AM
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Yes, mine has the fairings molded in, but there's about an 1/8" of an inch to move it up or down. Pretty sloppy if you ask me. I got an email from Ziroli, and Mike told me they set all of their P-47's with 1 degree positive incidence. It's not a lot, but almost everyone said it requires a little up trim for level flight. Once I get the elevators built, I'll get the stab mounted and post some pictures of my progress. This is my first warbird. It sure is time consuming, compared to building an Extra 300.
It appears that this is a current thread again. That's good! I'm not real sure about the amount of trim mine takes in level flight, but it does fly well, and is an easy to fly model. And yes, a model like this is time consuming. It's definitely not an ARF! I have about a year of work on mine. On the other hand, if you have been through my entire build, you can see that I did a lot of additional work that a lot of folks would not have done. That's typical of any scale project, I think.
What engine will you be using? Are you planning to do the inner gear doors? They are also somewhat time consuming, but I thought they weer worth it.
Have fun on your build, take your time, and enjoy the fruits of your labor later.
Joe
11-15-2014, 10:36 AM
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I'm using a 3W 60cc that came out of my friends Yellow P-47 after it went in after the elevator screw holding the arm came off. I'm using the Sierra retracts from his model with a sequencer for the inner doors and doors for the tailwheel retract. Lots of time spent making it all work correctly. I made the doors from carbon fiber. They fit pretty well.
