dbronst3790

My Feedback: (2)

Congrats, I know the feeling.

dbronst3790

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone had any experiance with the $6.00 Hobby-Lobby bombs?

"Our "exploding" bomb is molded of fiberglass-filled nylon so you can reuse it as often as you want. 5-1/2� long, its two halves pop apart on impact releasing flour or talcum in an impressive burst. The carrier release mechanism is strong and releases the bomb positively. Contains one bomb and one release mechanism."

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/scart/pub...p=3&detailed=1

Also, check out these instructions for mounting them:

http://modelairplanenews.com/ME2/dir...119361CC6E589C

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I have a few sets, and altho they are nicely made, AND in-expensive: they do not look like the standard 500 lb bombs that were so widely used by all branches of U.S. military during WW II and beyond (up to and including the Viet Nam war), as well as our allies.
In fact, they look more like German/ axis bombs, which would look better on a Butcher Bird or a Stuka.

Get the company that makes them to come up with a different mold for the bombs, and the ' .06 size' warbird world will be at their doorsteps.

I did some re-working of my fin yesterday: the tip (top) was deformed/ somewhat crushed (grain is going wrong way for strength), so I strengthened it and made it have a more scale accurate profile. I am out of town as I compose this (going to Mid Am Electric Fly-in with Mustang and Corsair today), so I will post pics when I get back home later today.

Mid Am E- Fly info:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1077524

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Fin/ Rudder Mods:

As promised, here are pics of my fin and rudder. I modified the top portion of the fin by adding a strip of 1/64" ply to the rear surface, then a short piece of aileron stock to tha ply. I then sanded to shape, and saturated with fast CA.
Next, I sanded the rudder to match, and saturated the top and trailing edge with CA.
Lastly, I sanded everything smooth where the CA had been applied.

The purpose of these mods is 2 fold:

1) stock set-up has in-accurate profile/ ouline of rudder fin and rudder seperation line. This mod makes it more scale accurate.

2) Fin appeared to be very susceptible to damage (in fact, was already damaged upon arrival). My expeience with Corsairs has taught my that short nose, 'radial engined' aircraft are more prone to flip over when taxing and/ or landing, for a variety of reasons (pilot error, holes in ground from ground varmits, landing gear issues, etc), and when they do: they end up on their fin and/ or rudder. Thus, I hope to have strengthened mine sufficiently enough to counter such damage, when/ if a tip-over occurs.

As for removing the ALL covering from the rudder: the P-47D-28-RA that I am modeling mine after ("My Baby", "WZ-X", SN 42-28615) had a black rudder, so I need to recover mine anyway.

Rebellion

My Feedback: (2)

Picked up mine at Hodges' Hobbies a little over a week ago. Haven't had time to look it over much but what I've seen looks pretty good so far, other than a not-so-hot match between the OD paint on the cowl and the Monokote.

I'm curious if anyone has the [link=http://centuryjet.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/31/products_id/1078?osCsid=69ab143080da771dd3540116af05d8bd]Century Jet[/link] gear yet, and if so, what you think of it.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Speaking of landing gear: I noticed a big crack in one of the housings on my Top Flite Mustang.
This is the second time one of mine cracked, but the first time I believe it was my fault (landed short of the runway into some weeds), but this time: I cannot recollect anything even CLOSE to having a bad landing since I replaced that unit.
I can no longer offer any kind of endorsement for the retract units that are being shipped with the Top Flite warbirds. If nothing else, I recommend that everyone replace them with Robart mechanicals. They are under $40 a set. I still like mechanicals: they work good for me, and I have never had any issues with Robart housing cracking.
For those with deeper pockets: the CenturyJets look very promising.

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

With the heat here lately I havn't got as much done to the plane as I wanted.. the shop is not cooling down at night

So I worked on my pilot... I just hate the looks of the century jet pilot.. really rough looking

So I made franken pilot..lol.. I really love the Ace's of Iron Pilots, but wanted a full body pilot
I saw this done a few years ago with the bigger pilots so I went for it

I went with a 1/7 scale Ace's of Iron bust and the 1/8 Vailly Aviation full body pilot...
I just cut the Vailly Aviation pilot in half and glued him with CA to the aces of iron... I used a little canopy glue to help blend them out..
then you glue the arms on and legs... it's not perfect but from above looking down into the cockpit it's just fine

I also bought the bigger pilots to do the same setup for my top flight gaint scale P-51

all in all I'm pretty happy with him.. you can't see the weathering on him all that well but in person he is nice and dirty

later
Ron

Thorprops

Can you please post a few pics of your robostrut and wheel down in the wheel well so that the gear door sits flush? I,m using Robart 605HD air retracts with the 380 struts and 3-1/4 Robart diamond tread wheels. Also, am not sure how to orient the strut. (strut offset up or down , link arms facing leading edge or trailing edge of wing) Any info will help, thanks.

kurrikan

here i let yoy some pics of the modified wing ,and the century jet retract

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Stock Retracts with RoboStruts:

Here are pics of my retract installation. Gear doors are not mounted yet (will fly without them for first few flights), but everything else on the wing is ready to go.

I went with the #650 straight struts because full scale P-47 struts have only a slight amount of offest anyway (see scale drawing).
When I DO get the gear doors installed: the spring loops will hardly be visible. I like 'forgiving' landing gear, which is why I use RoboStruts AND the spring loops.

As you can see: I removed parts of the wheel wells, becuase there is a real lack of room for wheels. Like I said earlier: choose after-market wheels VERY carefully. If they are too wide, you won't be able to get them all the way into the wells.

Last pic shows gear door placed over landing gear. It is not attached, just set on there to show that it will ALMOST be flush with the wing, when it doies become attached.

ALL pics and drawings are of left main landing gear.

ProScaleRc

Hi Ron,

may I ask, did you purchase straight off Ace Of Iron, or from somewhere else? I purchased off them nearlly 2 months ago and I haven't received my pilot as yet, and they do not respond to any emails...

cheers,

james

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Hey James..
you better shoot them and email... I had mine in four days
somthing doesn't sound right.. I ordered direct off there web site

hope you get it straightend out
that really make nice stuff

later
Ron

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

I had a problem with the position of the retract servo , too high!, what I did was not to use the servo mount they supply instead I cleared some of the center rib first down to about 1/8" then glued two 1/4" rails to mount the servo keeping the servo as low as possible so that the wires will end up about 1/4" above the servo, after that the instalation was as normal as it can be, no adjusments of any kind it works just fine.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

VIDEO!

Doing some searching this morning, before I resume (and complete) my engine/ fuel system/ cowl installation, and came across this YouTube video:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhf-KfVLgas[/youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhf-KfVLgas

Hellcat716

My Feedback: (2)

What is the best way to apply the star and bar decals over the air exhaust panels on the side of the fuselage? Can it be done in one piece? Thanks.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Saito 1.00 GK Installed:

Here's my completed installation. All that remains for the engine compartment is the installation of the tank and connecting the fuel lines.
Each pics (except the last one) is paired: odd numbered ones show with cowl installed, even numbered ones show same view but with cowl removed.

First pic shows why I chose a (Saito) Golden Knight engine: it blends in SO WELL with a black dummy radial which has dummy aluminum pushrod guides installed.

Pics 3 & 4 show right side. The cutout in rear of the cowl is for a "Dubro E/Z Fill Fueling Valve", a relatively new product which I decided to try and it looks like it will work out very nicely:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWDG9
There is also a small hole in about the middle of the cowl (still on right siade) for making low speed mixture adjustments. Hole is where a small screwdriver can be inserted to make the adjustments.

Pics 5 & 6 show left side. Muffler used is a "TurboHeader Muffler", which is sold in RCU Market Place for about $70 + shipping:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=520405
A VERY nice product, which makes it easy to keep everything within the cowl. If the link doesn't work (because ad expired), try a search for TurboHeader Muffler.
Attached to the muffler, and deflecting exhaust out ot the cowl is a "Hobbico Exhaust Deflector .60-2.7":
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXL379&P=K
The main needle valve adjuster 'protrudes' from the left side: kinda hard to spot it because it is black and the hole is in one of the black squares.

Pic 7 shows the bottom with the cowl installed. The hole is where my glow plug igniter will be inserted when needed for starting the engine.

As you can see: the Saito 1.00 with TurboHeader Muffler fits completely inside the cowl, BUT it is a very close fit. I'm thinking the Saito .91 GK may be a better choice, but considering the great deal I got on this engine (see earlier posts): I just couldn't pass it up.

You may also notice: I 'customized' the firewall just a little, and painted it with Top Flite fuel proof spray paints (olive and gray), to darken the firwall and provide additional fuel proofing.

kurrikan

HI corsair Job ,this is Kurrikan from Spain.very nice work on your plane.What kind of servo did you used on wings? maybe standar or some special servo?


Does the plane flow well?.i am working in the well wheels,i am try to make a scale outer and inner doors (very complicated work for me).,i bought a 3 1/2 " scale wheels from robart but finally i will put the wheels that comes wiht the plane ,they are more smaller than robart,and fit precfectly into the wings.


best regards from spain

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I haven't applied the decals yet, but according to my 'in detail and scale' book: yes, the fuselage ones will need to be cut.

I like the Futaba 3004s: standard specs (47 oz./ in. torque @ 4.8 VDC), BB, but weigh only about 1.4 oz. each. I use aftermarket digital servos with simular specs on some surfaces, such as ailerons. For retracts: my setup is explained in earlier post.

I assume you mean 'fly well'? How would I know? I just got the engine installed on Sunday, 7/26. It hasn't even been started yet, let alone broken in and flown.

I have seen your work on the doors: VERY nice looking. As for the Robart wheels, as I stated earlier: there really aren't many options due to limited space (depth) in wheeel wells. Best to stick with the stock wheels or something VERY close to same thickness.

kurrikan

Hi ,I saw the video post in this tread i was thing is your plane(sorry for my english)[]

Well,at the end i have finishedthe retracts,now its time to mount servos an glue boht wings

raden201

Hello, I just read your build on the bomb mechs. Very nice!!!! Just finished my P-47 and it has 7 flights on it. She's a real sweetie to fly !!!! Anyone interested can see the flight on youtube under " Vinces P-47 " filmed by my good buddy cappaj1. Well done Jim !!!!

Hellcat716

My Feedback: (2)

Excellent video. Can you tell me how you applied the star and bar decal over the air exhaust intakes on the side of the fuselage? Thank you.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

First off, that is a really nice job you are doing on the gear doors, kurrikan: thanks for sharing with info and pics.

Tailwheel Retract:
Don't know if I mentioned it before, but ever since I installed a retractable tailwheel on one of my Corsairs several years ago, I am compelled to install one on EVERY '60 size' warbird that I build from now on.

That said, here is the retract unit that is going into my T-Bolt. It is a Robart #602 retractable NOSE gear unit:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMJJ7&P=SM
It has been modified by me: I fabricated the brass steering arm and installed/ soldered it on, and I had to replace the stock actuator rod with the 180 deg 'turn-around' shown in the pics, since the servo will be in front of the unit rather than behind it.
I really dont like any of the other Robart tailwheel retract options, ESPECIALLY the #121 (which is REALLY best suited for a Corsair), so I prefer to convert small nose wheel retract units instead.

And, since I really like 'forgiving' landing gear, note that I installed a Sullivan Tailwheel Bracket 60-1/4 10-22 lbs spring tailwheel strut/ wire on it:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFV48&P=SM
The post of the strut wire wasn't quite long enough, AND the diameter was too small, so I soldered a 1/8" O.D. brass tube over the post to extend it about 3/16" AND bring it up to the correct O.D.

Note that I am using a carbon fiber 1/8" O.D. tube for linkage to the servo: very stiff, yet light wieght. I will also be using one for my elevator controls, along with a Sig elevator joiner, so that I can make that linkage completely internal.

Here are 'walk around' pics of the unit ready to be installed. First 4 pics is wheel down position, last 4 are gear up.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Fuselage U.S. National Markings:
1st pic show right side from a little distance. Note national marking decal: this is the correct way to install them. Yes, you WILL need to cut them up and use the extra decals for scraps IF you really want it to look correct.
My 'in detail and scale' booklet informs me that the louvers moved forward, then out. National markings were applied with louvers fully closed (moved rearward). Thus, the forward vertical bar (blue) 'disappears' into the fuselage as the louvers open/ move forward. Check it out: look at 2nd pic, which is of the full scale "Eillen".

Tailwheel Retract:
Pics 3 ~ 6 are of retract unit installed and connected to Hitec HS-225 MG servo. BTW: I am using Hitec HS-225BBs for elevator and rudder.
Pics 3 & 4 are with tailwheel down, pics 5 & 6 are with it up.
As you can see: it is perhaps not the best of installations. The spring loop 'hang's out' when the wheel is retracted (up), and there are no functional gear doors on it. Nontheless, if you see mine and another Top Flite P-47 flying together at warbird event: mine will be the one that doen't have the tailwheel hanging out.

kurrikan

Very nice work corsair job.I want too mount the tail wheel retract.For this i have purchased from tower hobbis this retract unit robart 121 retractable tail wheel.


Here i let you the first step of the tail wheel instalation on my T-Bolt

i will make the tail wheel gear doors wiht fiber glass,for this i have curved a litlle piece of balsa wiht water,up to the balsa i put plastic to protec the surface.

Netx monday will to star glass

see you[8D]

raden201

Sure... I placed the decal in the position ,over the exhaust and cut the decal to size. Then I did the same for the rest. Its done in three pieces. Hope that helps !!! AND THANKS FOR WATCHING THE VIDEO