Mavpro

Which prop would you then recommend for a CARF Yak 2,6 m/ Moki 150? Best possible performance for 150 m high vertical climb + snap on the middle. I havent yet seen any /18 prop to fit the 150.

docgboy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjfZMe7Q-7w
Here's a short video of my test run this weekend. 32x18 cut down to 30" and was getting 4500-4600rpms This boy has got some pull.

Can finish prepping for paint now

Scott

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

Scott, How are you cleaning it without removing the valve? I'm going to back to 32:1 and premium fuel and will be adding carbon guard so this doesn't happen again.

Scott Prossen

I'm holding the valve open and blasting the cleaner fluid right in there and letting it sit and do its work. That's how RCS/TBM showed me how to do it??? I don't know any other way??? I've seen the cleaner fluid work its magic on parts just sitting in a parts wash bin so I assumed (big word for me) that it worked the same on the valve and the port....no?

I'm always interested in learning a better, more correct way to do it. So bring it Jeffy Baby, I'm all ears! Scotty reporting for class.

clarence_carlsson

I'm sorry if this is off-topic, but you are the guys to ask:

Is it possible to shorten the radial mount on the Moki 150 to get it closer to the firewall? Would it be a problem with heat maybe?

I'm planning on building a C-ARF SP55 2.6m with a Moki 150. But without any modifications the propeller extends to far and would like to move the engine backward 20 mm. Shortening the mount would be easier than modifying the firewall.

Is it also possible to buy or build a spinner that extends behind the propeller, just like to original:
[link]http://www.airliners.net/photo/Technoavia-SP-55M/1568376/L/&sid=9cbc8ff15b7031f814991ea72c5ff3da[/link]

Thanks
Clarence Carlsson
Sweden

taygher

Hi Clarence,

I am not sure if there is any significant difference between the 150 and the 215/250 when it comes to the design of the engine mount and the carburator fitted inside of it.
I have the 250 in a 3m C-ARF Yak 55SP and I don't think it would be possible to shorten the engine mount 20mm without serious trouble. The carb would have to protrude through the firewall all the way in that case and besides that it would be an interesting task to shorten the mount itself with success.

If you buy/make a spinner as the original 55SP it would only be a good thing that the prop is far in front of the cowling.
Also for performance a decent amount of clearance between the prop and cowling is a positive thing.

Another alternative is to build the 3m-version with the 250, I can supply a suitable cnc-milled spacer to make the engine installation really easy. The combination with this plane & engine is awsome! (A little bit more expensive though..)

//Taygher
(Also from Sweden)

Mavpro

Good question, Clarence. Cactus Aviation supplied a special spinner for my CARF Extra 2,6/ 3W 106 combo. This spinner has a specially machined backplate, that virtually brings the spinner some millimetres closer to the cowling. Ofcourse, thisone can be used on our Moki 150/ CARF Yak also.

mick15

Clarence, you could bolt the engine to the back of the firewall as I did with my Bates Sea Fury.

m

Scott Prossen

Mick, any chance you can show a few or any Pictures of that installation. Mounting to the back of the firewall sounds very interesting!

Thanks,
Scott

GFoushi

Hello All You Moki Lovers!!

Last time I posted I test ran my new Moki 250 on the driveway.... Now, I have two flights with the LA-7 and all I can say is this engine was worth every penny. I haven't touch the factory setting and she pures like a kitten. I used "Permatex" RTV High Temp Silicone on the exhaust ring nuts and they are staying tight. I didn't baffle the front of the cowl and the cylinder heads range in temperature from 220 to 260 (f). I've now opened up some slots in the dome and made baffles to the scale exhaust. This should bring down the temperatures even more, I hope!!!

For my first flight I had Scott and Paul with me for the maiden of the new Moki. Paul, is working on that attached video it's not complete yet but I wanted you all to hear this bad boy!! So, turn up your speakers and enjoy... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-FTNOldYyg

Greg

Hello82

Hey Greg..nice bird, congrats on the successful maiden and smooth purring kitten[sm=thumbup.gif]...good to hear all positive

Matt

Jetjockgb

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Gregg,

What Can I say!!! she look absolutely stunning!!! super smooth with the 250 sinning away, the 250 has brought her to life, so realistic looking and sounding.

A very big congrats Gregg.

Cheers Graham B.
WWW.TIGERMODELS.NET

mick15

I bet your'e pleased with that! flaps make a big difference don't they?

m

mirce

Hi Scott,

I enjoy so much reading this posts about Moki's...

My Ziroli Hellcat is rather made but I am not sure that G-62 will be inaf power for it. I hope that it will be at the end 15-17 kg...
Can I put Moki 150 inside of cowl and will be Moki 150 OK for this model or I need some stronger Moki engine?

What is your opinion which Moki is beter 150 or 215?

Thanks for ansvers

Mirce

Scott Prossen

Mirce,

Great to hear from you buddy. Thanks for dropping in. Hope that Hellcat is coming along nicely.

There are a couple flying in the USA with 150 Mokis on them and the report is fantastic. Fits in the cowl just right. Plenty of engine for the weight. I have flow planes with the 150 Moki all the way up to 20.5 kg so I think the 150 is a good match for your Hellcat. Hope we get to see you at Top Gun again this spring.

The 150 and 215 have gotten excellent reviews by all the users I know so I don't know that one is a better engine than the other. I would say the 215 would be too much for the Z-Hellcat and I doubt it would fit in the cowl.

Hope all is well.....post some pics of your Hellcat when you mount the 150 in there. We love pictures of Mokis in all applications.

All the best,
Scott

quist

My Feedback: (198)

duplicate post

quist

My Feedback: (198)

I ran mine today for the first time in some months. I adjusted the 30" 3 Solo prop to 16 pitch. I leaned out the engine and 1/8th of a turn on the high needle, boy did it come alive. I have a lot of twin gas experience, I have never seen a high speed adjust so sensitive. It went from 4130 to 4750 rpm.

Scott Prossen

Welcome quist,

Would "yours" be a 215 or 250??? How long have you had the engine?

Have you noticed how sensative the throttle is to about 2/3's and from there to wide open there's very little difference?

Scott

quist

My Feedback: (198)

It is the 250, I have had it for 18 months but have little time on it. I agree with your throttle comment.

mick15

You can use mechanical or programmed exponential to alleviate this symptom.

m

Scott Prossen

Mick,

Of course you're correct. I've added expo on my last two setups.

The last time I added expo in the field I did not take the time to get used to the "new" setting. First flight after the expo change I came in on a long approach (couldn't hear the engine as other 2-cycles were running) and the plane stalled about a foot above the runway and damaged the left wing. When I checked the throttle position I had 5 clicks of throttle and it was the same as low idle. STUPID mistake on my part. LESSON: when making field adjustments like that to the radio always familiarize yourself with those changes before you fly. I then reduced the curve on the throttle expo and all was fine......except my pride. Ouch!

Mick, if you get a chance can you shed some light on mounting the engine "to the back" of the firewall as you mentioned in Post#308? Any pictures would be of great help.

Thanks,
Scott

mick15

Pics as requested.

m

Scott Prossen

Thanks Mick. That's a great way to move the engine back! I had to do something simular on a Fiber Classics Yak11. Works great and is very safe/sturdy.
Thanks for the pictures.

Scott

GFoushi

Well guys Monster Planes was awesome!!! Some Hugh RC planes attended the event.... I now have four flights on the 250 and took off the cowl to make sure all is well. I used the High Temperature RTV Silicone and it's holding the collector ring nuts on both sides tight!!! I highly recommend using that to keep them from loosing.

I now see some white Teflon coming out of the nuts?? Is this normal?? Here are a few pictures to look at....

Greg

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Greg, Good to meet you at MonsterPlanes....your LA is a terrific flyer and you do it justice. My 215 has the teflon all the way out of the exhaust nuts but it seems to make no difference as far as any leakage is concerned.
Just today I pulled my engine from my 30% Waco to fit it into a 30% Stearman and although I tightened the exhaust nuts before every day's flying they always loosened up. I wiped Red RTV on the threads as you and Scott have suggested and am hoping this will cure the situation. Wish I could have brought my plane down from New England but it wouldn't fit on the MD-88. Mitch