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MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Old 11-06-2019, 09:28 AM
  #4326  
Jaketab
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Originally Posted by GeorgiaFlyer View Post
What grease/oil are you using?
I use a heavy 85-140w gear oil and use a syringe to inject. The aim is to provide lube where the cams contact the solid lifters.
A heavy synthetic gear oil may be a better alternative ???
The 5 cylinder Moki has 2 cam rings (exhaust and Intake) with 2 cams each at 180 degrees apart.
When you check the valve lash at every 2nd rotation of the prop, you get a slightly different gap measurement.
There may be as much as .001" difference. Seems important to keep wear to a minimum.
Again - please accept my explanation as an unqualified mechanic and open to correction.
Old 11-08-2019, 06:54 AM
  #4327  
IFLYBVM2
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Tom Maxam check your PM please.
Old 11-08-2019, 06:55 AM
  #4328  
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Way back in the darkness of this thread, I commented on the lube or lack of,on the cams in my 400.
I had pulled a couple of lifters on #1 cyl and they were dry and showing signs of wear! This is on a low time engine.

I took out a lifter that was just below the crankshaft centerline and through a top lifter I injected gear oil, (80-90 weight) until it ran out of the aformentioned lower lifter.

From then on, after a flight there was grease/oil residue around the lifters, so obviously receiving some lube.

I had the 400 in a 40% Waco and put many flights on it, it has been sold on and is currently living in Texas.

Cheers,
Dave.
Old 12-15-2019, 10:28 AM
  #4329  
ReneAlv
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Default 3 blade Solo Prop

A great addition to your Warbird and Moki engine. Sale of Solo prop with three 26" blades only flown twice, with nomenclature, a three blade hub, dome spinner and hardware kit Moki 180 radial. If you purchase these items new it would cost $520.00. Sale price now $350.00. If interested email renalv@verizon.net.
Thank you for looking

Rene

Old 12-17-2019, 06:55 AM
  #4330  
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Default Fuel Pump

What I have experienced using the recommended APS fuel pump: My Moki 180 has been difficult to start since day one. Going against almost all past practices, I skipped any bench running and installed the new engine into my aircraft.
After two very frustrating rounds of coil replacements (see my earlier post), I finally have a reliable ignition. However, starting the engine continued to be difficult, despite my 20 years history of gas engine success (incl. Moki 250 and Saito radials) and over 40 year history of model engine experience (incl. glow radials).
And I have to say, it is unfortunate I always feel compelled to "qualify" my experience, but I assure you, I am not some model engine nitwit who immediately blames the product when I run into difficulties - quite the opposite.

The last time I flew my CARF SU-31 at an event, I posted one flight. An hour later when trying to start the engine again, no dice. After one "burp" while choked, I could never get it to even pop. Everything checked out fine and I had no interest in wrenching on the plane at the event.
The following morning, I removed the spark plugs and found the bottom two literally with pools of fuel in them. I had followed the exact same starting procedure as always - the exact same starting procedure I have used on every gasser I have ever owned, including my Moki 250 (which did NOT an external fuel pump).
After drying the plugs and swapping 1 and 2 with 3 and 4, the engine started normally and ran fine.

I have since sold the airframe to a buddy and removed the 180 with its next home being an F8F Bearcat. To that end, I mounted the Moki on my test stand and ran it with a 4 blade prop and no fuel pump. VOILA!
Now it starts with the exact same reliability as all my other gassers, using exactly the same starting routine.
With no external fuel pump, I did have to adjust the H and L speed needles, but engine starting is now 100% reliable, hot or cold. It throttles well and runs like a top. Also, I notice absolutely NO difference in the way the engine idles, throttles, or howls at full throttle without the auxiliary fuel pump.

Clearly, the APS fuel pump was FLOODING the engine.
OK, so mine is the programmable version and I never slaved it to the throttle stick. IF at some point in the future I decide I need it, I will.
After probably 20 flights on the engine with the fuel pump, combined with MANY sore arms starting the Moki, I have NO intention of installing the fuel pump into the Bearcat.

After a dozen or so bench runs there is absolutely zero residue/blockage in the air pulse pump line which actuates the internal Walbro pump diaphragm.
With my Moki 250 I did have to keep an eye on that line and clean it out perhaps every half dozen flights. The same diligence will be exercised again.

No pump vastly simplifies engine/tank installation too.

While I am NOT saying the APS pump is a bad idea, I am just describing my experience with it. Chances are, had I slaved it to the throttle channel, this starting/flooding problem may have been avoided.
BUT, I prefer what has proven to WORK for ME over the years, combined with simplicity, even if it requires extra diligence in keeping the engine's internal pump system at 100%.
Old 12-20-2019, 04:58 AM
  #4331  
ReneAlv
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Default 3 blade Solo Prop

Originally Posted by renealv View Post
a great addition to your warbird and moki engine. Sale of solo prop with three 26" blades only flown twice, with nomenclature, a three blade hub, dome spinner and hardware kit moki 180 radial. If you purchase these items new it would cost $520.00. sale price now $350.00. if interested email renalv@verizon.net.
Thank you for looking

rene
sold

Last edited by ReneAlv; 12-20-2019 at 04:59 AM. Reason: SOLD
Old 12-25-2019, 04:23 PM
  #4332  
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im getting 4 bladed prop from ramoser prop for moki S180. what size and pitch is suitable & whats the ground max RPM should I set
Old 12-28-2019, 12:28 PM
  #4333  
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Default Fuel pump ?

Richardís fuel pump post (above) prompted a question about my setup - S250, non-programmable pump, disconnected air pump to diaphragm, Sparkswitch for pump & ignition.

As soon as I switch on ignition & pump, I have visible fuel drips. Have return line from top of pump to tank. Very difficult to start; fairly certain it quickly floods.

Thinking I may have crusty carb diaphragm from prolonged sitting? Rebuild kit? New carb? Switch to programmable pump set up with mix to lower pressure at lower RPM (30% @ idle) Ditch pump all other?

Thoughts?


Last edited by marksp; 12-28-2019 at 01:18 PM.
Old 12-28-2019, 01:25 PM
  #4334  
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Originally Posted by marksp View Post
Richard’s fuel pump post (above) prompted a question about my setup - S250, non-programmable pump, disconnected air pump to diaphragm, Sparkswitch to pump & ignition.

As soon as I switch on ignition & pump, I have visible fuel drips. Have return line from top if pump to tank. Very difficult to start; suspected flooded.

Thinking I may have crusty carb diaphragm from sitting? Rebuild kit? New carb? Switch to programmable pump set up with lower pressure at lower RPM? Ditch pump alt other?

Thoughts?
I have the same set-up as you but instead of fuel leaking from the carby I could only get the fuel to about 10mm of the carby inlet, flicked, chocked, flicked but no fuel would enter the carby. Took the carby off and disassembled it but of course could not find any obvious obstructions. The metering needle lever looked to be set at the correct height but I raised it a little and connected the fuel line and turned on the pump and as expected it pored fuel out of the carby. I kept lowering the height of the leaver a little at a time until the carby stopped flooding. Reinstalled the carby and it now draws fuel as it should and starts with in four to five flicks. In my case I think the diaphragms would have been dry and stiff from lack of fuel after a long rest period, in your case if it has gone from not giving you any trouble to flooding then I would suggest that your needle has stuck open or the pump is over powering it if this is possible, keep in mind that my pump is not programmable same as yours. With the dry diaphragms on Walbro carburettors you generally find that once you get them wet they usually come to life and work as intended.
Hope this helps a little.
tmac48

Last edited by tmac48; 12-28-2019 at 01:45 PM.
Old 12-28-2019, 03:04 PM
  #4335  
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Originally Posted by marksp View Post
Richardís fuel pump post (above) prompted a question about my setup - S250, non-programmable pump, disconnected air pump to diaphragm, Sparkswitch for pump & ignition.

As soon as I switch on ignition & pump, I have visible fuel drips. Have return line from top of pump to tank. Very difficult to start; fairly certain it quickly floods.

Thinking I may have crusty carb diaphragm from prolonged sitting? Rebuild kit? New carb? Switch to programmable pump set up with mix to lower pressure at lower RPM (30% @ idle) Ditch pump all other?

Thoughts?
Mark,
I have 2 non-programable pumps and 1 programable. I personally don't trust the valve on top to recirculate enough fuel to prevent the pump from stalling. I use a continuous fuel loop. Install a "T" in the pump line to the engine. Another "T" in the fuel fill line. Whatever fuel that does not go to the carb is recirculated back to the fuel tank. This way the pump never needs priming or bled and does not cause unnessary pressure on the fuel lines.
Either way, the carb should not be leaking fuel except when choked.
Disassemble the carb and spray some WD-40 on the rubber pumper and diaphragm.

Regards - J Tab
Old 12-30-2019, 12:28 PM
  #4336  
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Hey everyone, first Moki build for me, on a CARF AT-6 Texan.

Anyone have any photos of how they mounted the Power box temp sensor to the motor? I assuming someone has to have done this..haha




Old 12-31-2019, 12:05 AM
  #4337  
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Originally Posted by Mokken View Post
Hey everyone, first Moki build for me, on a CARF AT-6 Texan.

Anyone have any photos of how they mounted the Power box temp sensor to the motor? I assuming someone has to have done this..haha



Awestruck
Old 12-31-2019, 08:24 AM
  #4338  
Jaketab
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MOKKEN,
Does your CARF Harvard AT-6 Texan look anything like this ? LOL

Old 01-04-2020, 05:48 PM
  #4339  
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Yep! Looks good!
Old 01-06-2020, 02:55 AM
  #4340  
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For new moki s180 ,which prop size from fiala to use for break in? Later i will fly using with 3blade ramoser variprop 25.9"
Old 01-10-2020, 08:42 AM
  #4341  
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Which one is good to use? My country only has this 3 type of oil . RON 95, ron97,ron100 and shell v power racing. What type of ron suitable to run tye moki s180 with combination of stihl hp ultra
Old 01-14-2020, 09:21 AM
  #4342  
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Default Pickup connector?

Anyone that can help me with the name on this Moki ignition pickup connector?




Thanks Alf
Old 01-14-2020, 09:39 AM
  #4343  
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Alf,
it is called a Hall sensor lead.
Old 01-14-2020, 09:41 AM
  #4344  
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Originally Posted by tmac48 View Post
Alf,
it is called a Hall sensor lead.

I know that this is a Hall sensor lead but what is the connectors name. Mine is broken ;-)
Old 01-14-2020, 01:30 PM
  #4345  
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Originally Posted by affas View Post
I know that this is a Hall sensor lead but what is the connectors name. Mine is broken ;-)
I do not think you will be able to buy the connector on its own, it is most likely a product of Moki but an electronics shop would be able to give you the correct answer to this.
Old 01-19-2020, 10:13 AM
  #4346  
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Default Moki 100 BVT

Hello,
I am having some problems with my Moki 100 BVT. It seems to misfire or fire in the exhaust, I know the ignition fires everytime the piston goes up, even in the exhaust cycle . When the engine runs I can hear it loudly banging in the exhaust. I noticed the push rods are slightly bent, could this be a problem?
I will start with changing the pushrods and also the sparkplugs.
Any thoughts are very welkom.

​​
Old 01-19-2020, 10:24 AM
  #4347  
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Originally Posted by snauwaertj View Post
Hello,
I am having some problems with my Moki 100 BVT. It seems to misfire or fire in the exhaust, I know the ignition fires everytime the piston goes up, even in the exhaust cycle . When the engine runs I can hear it loudly banging in the exhaust. I noticed the push rods are slightly bent, could this be a problem?
I will start with changing the pushrods and also the sparkplugs.
Any thoughts are very welkom.

​​
WOW! Not good. I suspect your valves are WAY out of adjustment (too tight), causing valves to COLLIDE with the pistons! This could explain the bent pushrods.
Have you checked valve clearances?
If the valves have hit the pistons then you most likely also have bent valves, which requires their replacement. A bent valve can also damage the valve seat which will negatively affect engine compression and would require machining or seat replacement.
I hope it ISN'T that catastrophic, but what you are describing sounds very bad.
Old 01-19-2020, 10:34 AM
  #4348  
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Originally Posted by RichardGee View Post
WOW! Not good. I suspect your valves are WAY out of adjustment (too tight), causing valves to COLLIDE with the pistons! This could explain the bent pushrods.
Have you checked valve clearances?
If the valves have hit the pistons then you most likely also have bent valves, which requires their replacement. A bent valve can also damage the valve seat which will negatively affect engine compression and would require machining or seat replacement.
I hope it ISN'T that catastrophic, but what you are describing sounds very bad.
I hope not, compression is strong and he always starts with 2 flicks. I have heard storys of bent push rods before, I tought this was the main reason why people buy the carbon ones from Vogelsang Aeroscale?
Old 01-19-2020, 10:47 AM
  #4349  
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Originally Posted by snauwaertj View Post
I hope not, compression is strong and he always starts with 2 flicks. I have heard storys of bent push rods before, I tought this was the main reason why people buy the carbon ones from Vogelsang Aeroscale?
No. Carbon fiber pushrods reduce inertia, owing to their lower weight, allowing higher rpm without the risk of throwing a pushrod.

Have you checked your valve clearances?
Old 01-19-2020, 11:20 AM
  #4350  
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Originally Posted by RichardGee View Post
No. Carbon fiber pushrods reduce inertia, owing to their lower weight, allowing higher rpm without the risk of throwing a pushrod.

Have you checked your valve clearances?
​​​​​​yes, I check valve clearance every 10 to 20 flights. It's still ok.

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