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MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Old 01-21-2020, 12:04 PM
  #4351  
David Gladwin
 
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Perhaps this has been covered BUT what is the suggested fuel capacity for the Moki 250 in an AirWorld Sea Fury, 10 minute flights ?
Old 01-21-2020, 12:13 PM
  #4352  
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Originally Posted by David Gladwin View Post
Perhaps this has been covered BUT what is the suggested fuel capacity for the Moki 250 in an AirWorld Sea Fury, 10 minute flights ?
I have 1 liter tank for the Moki 250 in my Lavochkin 7, and fly safely 10 minutes.
Old 01-21-2020, 12:39 PM
  #4353  
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Most guys I have asked in the US are using a 40oz, with some using 50oz. I currently have a 32oz in my Carf '47, but wish I had used the 40.
Mike O.
Old 01-21-2020, 02:20 PM
  #4354  
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Default Hall effect electrical connector

Do us a favor and take a shot of the front and other side of that Hall Effect electrical connector and post please

Bill
Old 01-21-2020, 04:12 PM
  #4355  
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Originally Posted by David Gladwin View Post
Perhaps this has been covered BUT what is the suggested fuel capacity for the Moki 250 in an AirWorld Sea Fury, 10 minute flights ?
Own 2 Moki 250's. Both with 1 liter tanks and fly 12 minutes only using about 17-18 ounces.
Old 01-22-2020, 01:27 AM
  #4356  
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Default Moki 250 tanks

Thanks Guys, 1 litre it will be !
Old 01-23-2020, 02:31 AM
  #4357  
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Originally Posted by affas View Post
Anyone that can help me with the name on this Moki ignition pickup connector?
Thanks Alf
I don't remember the number of pins on the connector, I guess it's 10. On mouser dot com, you can search for references:
* header 10 pins, but you can then easily find the other references if another number of pins is required: 617-09-18-510-6813 (manufacturer Harting, mfr part number 09185106813)
* locking lever: 617-09-18-000-9905 (manufacturer Harting, mfr part number 09180009905)



Old 01-23-2020, 02:34 AM
  #4358  
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does anyone know the torque to apply on cylinder head screws ? I'd like to loosen one screw on each cylinder to install the temperature probes supplied with the powerbox pbs-t250

thanks
Old 01-24-2020, 06:57 AM
  #4359  
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Default clocking a radial prop

Question for the Moki radial guys. When drilling a new prop, at what point do you clock the prop to get a clean pull through? In other words, which cylinder do you bring up to compression to get a 2 oclock pull?



Thanks, Scott
Old 01-24-2020, 08:16 AM
  #4360  
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Originally Posted by snauwaertj View Post
Hello,
I am having some problems with my Moki 100 BVT. It seems to misfire or fire in the exhaust, I know the ignition fires everytime the piston goes up, even in the exhaust cycle . When the engine runs I can hear it loudly banging in the exhaust. I noticed the push rods are slightly bent, could this be a problem?
I will start with changing the pushrods and also the sparkplugs.
Any thoughts are very welkom.

​​
Located the problem, the exhaust valves are so built up with carbon residu that I can barely move them. That's also why only the exhaust pushrods are bent. I bought the engine used, and I hope it's from the previous owner, I only use Aspen and they guaranteed me this feul gives no carbon residu.
Can I put the cilinder heads in a bath to clean the residu?

Last edited by snauwaertj; 01-24-2020 at 10:42 AM.
Old 01-24-2020, 08:28 AM
  #4361  
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Originally Posted by snauwaertj View Post
Located the problem, the exhaust valves are so built up with carbon residu that I can barely move them. That's also why only the exhaust pushrods are bent. I bought the engine used, and I hope it's from the previous owner, I only use Aspen and the guaranteed me this feul gives no carbon residu.
Can I put the cilinder heads in a bath to clean the residu?
Any idea what oil the previous owner was using and at what ratio?

p.s. Don't mean to sound critical, but I told you to check your valve adjustment. IF your exhaust valves were stuck, you would have found this immediately
Old 01-24-2020, 08:35 AM
  #4362  
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Originally Posted by RichardGee View Post
Any idea what oil the previous owner was using and at what ratio?

p.s. Don't mean to sound critical, but I told you to check your valve adjustment. IF your exhaust valves were stuck, you would have found this immediately
You have a point, but in my favor, the valves open the first mm smooth, so I could not notice while measuring in closed position.
No idea on the feul used by the previous owner.
There also comes a dry noise from the camshaft, can I open up the bottom pusher and lubricate this?
Old 01-26-2020, 10:38 AM
  #4363  
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Cleaned the exhaust valve and chamber as good as possible without removing the valves. When I ran the engine the sound was still there at first, 10 seconds later it was gone. Guess there still was some residu between the valve and valve seat. Engine runs fine now. Now I wil make new pushrods from carbonfiber rods to replace the bent old ones.

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Old 02-13-2020, 10:50 PM
  #4364  
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Hello all RCS / MOKI radials owners,

Need a help for overhaul on your lovely RCS / MOKI engine ?
Take a look on my FaceBook webpage : https://www.facebook.com/ModelismeMi.../?ref=settings

Hope this help !
Best regards from La Rochelle, West France.
Old 02-17-2020, 10:52 AM
  #4365  
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Anyone needing props for your Moki 215, 250, or 300 link below to classifieds.
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/market/11675405

Regards - J Tab

Old 04-05-2020, 12:47 AM
  #4366  
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Hello guys !

How search for a defect coil on a MOKI radial engine ? I added a nw video here :

A new MOKI S250 overhaul and timing step-by-step on my professional Facebook webpage : https://www.facebook.com/ModelismeMicromoteursService/

Hope this help

Olivier La Rochelle - FRANCE
Old 05-01-2020, 08:02 PM
  #4367  
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Default Moki 180 ignition voltage

I got my 180 radial back in 2013 and cant for the life of me remember if this ignition module should be powered by 4.8v or 6v/ 2 cell life/lipo. I see some modules have 2cell written on them but mine doesn't specify. Also what's a good safe mAh size to use with it?
​​​​​​
Old 05-02-2020, 03:15 AM
  #4368  
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Cool

Originally Posted by davidgeorge212 View Post
I got my 180 radial back in 2013 and cant for the life of me remember if this ignition module should be powered by 4.8v or 6v/ 2 cell life/lipo. I see some modules have 2cell written on them but mine doesn't specify. Also what's a good safe mAh size to use with it?
​​​​​​
David it depends on what ignition box you have. The black high hat version is a 4.8-6.0 volt. There are two square box ignitions one is a 6 pin connector (RED) the other is an 8 pin connector (BLUE) both will except any 7.4v 2S battery. Check Vogelsang Aeroscale web site under Moki parts I believe they explain it better then I. As for a battery I use a 3800 mah Life battery. What do you have your 180 in.

Steve
Old 05-02-2020, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by srp55 View Post
David it depends on what ignition box you have. The black high hat version is a 4.8-6.0 volt. There are two square box ignitions one is a 6 pin connector (RED) the other is an 8 pin connector (BLUE) both will except any 7.4v 2S battery. Check Vogelsang Aeroscale web site under Moki parts I believe they explain it better then I. As for a battery I use a 3800 mah Life battery. What do you have your 180 in.

Steve

This the one I have
Old 05-02-2020, 12:24 PM
  #4370  
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Cool MOKI 180 Ignition

Dave my 250 has the Blue box and it is written on the box 7.4v, I would think you can use up to 7.4v, I would reach out to Vogelsang Aeroscale just to be safe.
Old 05-04-2020, 12:43 PM
  #4371  
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Default Exhaust Tube Nuts

Need help or suggestions on keeping the exhaust manifold nuts from getting loose on my newer Moki 250. (AT-6 exhaust version) Im guessing others may be having the same problem. The engine was purchased last May and has ample time that the nuts with the Teflon washers should have seated just as my older Moki has. The older Moki is essentially problem free and rock solid. Last year the (new Moki 250) exhaust tube nuts backed off during a flying session and caused the tube flanges to break off on the engine side. New exhaust tubes along with the Teflon washers and copper crush rings were replaced under warranty. It takes about 10-15 minutes of run time for the nuts to back off enough to cause the collector ring to move out of position. I've been careful not to overtighten the nuts and deform the Teflon washer. Has anyone had success with thread locker or thread sealing compounds ???


Old 05-04-2020, 01:46 PM
  #4372  
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I do not the answer, I need to tighten mine after every 10 min run,the Teflon is squeezing out from under the the nut! Can't see lock- tight or anything similar working on exhaust.
Old 05-04-2020, 02:29 PM
  #4373  
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Originally Posted by tmac48 View Post
I do not the answer, I need to tighten mine after every 10 min run,the Teflon is squeezing out from under the the nut! Can't see lock- tight or anything similar working on exhaust.
Tmac - I discovered that tightening the nut when the motor is hot will cause the Teflon to deform and squeeze out the back side of the nut.
Tightening on my motor requires removing the cowl. PITA.
Taking a wild guess, could it be that Moki has changed to a softer grade of Teflon washers ????
I found some Teflon rings on the McMaster-Carr website. They list a hardness of 50D Durometer and rated for 500 F.

Regards - J Tab
Old 05-04-2020, 04:48 PM
  #4374  
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Default Nuts!

My 250 has been flying for 8 years with over 100 flights. The Nuts still loosen up regularly. Not sure how you got your older one to stay tight, but whatever it was I would suggest you do the same!

Originally Posted by Jaketab View Post
Need help or suggestions on keeping the exhaust manifold nuts from getting loose on my newer Moki 250. (AT-6 exhaust version) Im guessing others may be having the same problem. The engine was purchased last May and has ample time that the nuts with the Teflon washers should have seated just as my older Moki has. The older Moki is essentially problem free and rock solid. Last year the (new Moki 250) exhaust tube nuts backed off during a flying session and caused the tube flanges to break off on the engine side. New exhaust tubes along with the Teflon washers and copper crush rings were replaced under warranty. It takes about 10-15 minutes of run time for the nuts to back off enough to cause the collector ring to move out of position. I've been careful not to overtighten the nuts and deform the Teflon washer. Has anyone had success with thread locker or thread sealing compounds ???

Old 05-06-2020, 05:01 AM
  #4375  
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I can run mine in the back yard for three minutes, next day I will need to tighten them up again, not sure how long i will be able to keep doing this before there is no longer any of the Teflon left!


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