MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
07-10-2022, 04:41 PM
#4977
Hey guys, ok so I weighed each blade separately and they were exactly the weight that was written on them, 150g. All exactly the same. So the prop is balanced.
So is it normal that there is some “shake” when transitioning from low power to a high power setting?
I have a few other questions as well. After landing I’ve noticed that 95% of the exhaust oils are only coming out of one exhaust exit. The engine has the exhaust ring and just and extension on each outlet to bring it to the scale location on my P-47.
On my second flight I was a bit more aggressive on the power and noticed a fair amount of rpm sag at high power. To me this is a symptom of a high needle being a tad to lean? RPM on the ground is around 3600 RPM or so. Or maybe it’s to much pitch? To remind you guys I’m running the 250 7 cylinder and not the 5. So Im expecting a little less power then the 5. The pitch is set to recommend for 5 cylinder. Can’t find any info for the 7. I was thinking to richen the mixture an 1/8th and back off the pitch just a very small amount.
Temps in flight were about 230 steady, and seems to remain pretty constant.
So is it normal that there is some “shake” when transitioning from low power to a high power setting?
I have a few other questions as well. After landing I’ve noticed that 95% of the exhaust oils are only coming out of one exhaust exit. The engine has the exhaust ring and just and extension on each outlet to bring it to the scale location on my P-47.
On my second flight I was a bit more aggressive on the power and noticed a fair amount of rpm sag at high power. To me this is a symptom of a high needle being a tad to lean? RPM on the ground is around 3600 RPM or so. Or maybe it’s to much pitch? To remind you guys I’m running the 250 7 cylinder and not the 5. So Im expecting a little less power then the 5. The pitch is set to recommend for 5 cylinder. Can’t find any info for the 7. I was thinking to richen the mixture an 1/8th and back off the pitch just a very small amount.
Temps in flight were about 230 steady, and seems to remain pretty constant.
07-10-2022, 04:57 PM
#4978
My Feedback: (360)
A couple of thoughts :
I have a couple of 250 5 cylinders, and although they run well, they are not vibration free through the transition.
You have checked the prop, and it should be fine.
If it is sagging, try backing off the hi needle just a tad. Mine turns a 4 blade 28-18 sep prop about 3900 rpm static. How much pitch are you running ?
- Mike O.
I have a couple of 250 5 cylinders, and although they run well, they are not vibration free through the transition.
You have checked the prop, and it should be fine.
If it is sagging, try backing off the hi needle just a tad. Mine turns a 4 blade 28-18 sep prop about 3900 rpm static. How much pitch are you running ?
- Mike O.
07-10-2022, 05:33 PM
#4980
Mike,
The manual says if I use the jig where it’s supposed to be then it should be about 14” pitch for the 4 blade. It might be a tad bit much for the 7 cylinder.
ok glad to hear your exhaust is doing the same. I figure it’s the direction of the exhaust flow and the oil residue takes the path of least resistance.
so you agree it might be a tad lean, I’ll try that next time I fly it and since I have the prop apart I’ll back off the pitch to gain a few extra rpm.
The manual says if I use the jig where it’s supposed to be then it should be about 14” pitch for the 4 blade. It might be a tad bit much for the 7 cylinder.
ok glad to hear your exhaust is doing the same. I figure it’s the direction of the exhaust flow and the oil residue takes the path of least resistance.
so you agree it might be a tad lean, I’ll try that next time I fly it and since I have the prop apart I’ll back off the pitch to gain a few extra rpm.
07-10-2022, 06:01 PM
#4981
My Feedback: (2)
DHC6 - I own 2 250's. You are correct regarding the transition. There is a point where both the low and high needles influence the fuel flow and create a rich mixture. Some may be able to tune this out, but I have learned to live with it. Your ground rpm's seem a little low as the prop pitch may be too high. Try to adjust the pitch to get a static 3900 to 4000 rpm as Mike say's. If you are under 5000 in the air you should be OK. Exhaust oils will reduce as the engine is run in.
BTW - I don't want to spill the beans, but I heard rumor from a good source that Airworld/Moki may have a new dealer or service point in the USA. Can anyone confirm this?
Regards - J Tab
BTW - I don't want to spill the beans, but I heard rumor from a good source that Airworld/Moki may have a new dealer or service point in the USA. Can anyone confirm this?
Regards - J Tab
Last edited by Jaketab; 07-10-2022 at 06:04 PM.
07-11-2022, 01:16 AM
#4982
DHC6, I was having all the usually complained about troubles with my 250. hard to start, loosing cylinders 3 and 4 running rough and shacking at mid range. Not really sure what fixed it but went the whole hog. Complete carby kit, adjusted the needle and seat height. new plugs, new Turbulator-- and so far only a very rough high and low needle settings (1-1/2H. 1+L) She now starts after 2-3 flips, 900 rpm idle, 4600 rpm wot, transitions very smooth low to high no mater how fast or slow you throttle up. Runs true at all throttle settings without going rich or lean at any setting, Have the same RPM on 32 x 18 2blade as on a 34 x 16 2blade. To me this indicates that the Moki can be made to run as one would expect it should, very happy with mine now. Will get back to it shortly and do a final adjustment of the H & L needles to get it dialed in, it very well may be dialed in as it is.
tmac48
PS.Meant to say that I do run a pump.
tmac48
PS.Meant to say that I do run a pump.
Last edited by tmac48; 07-11-2022 at 01:18 AM.
07-11-2022, 06:15 AM
#4983
Jaketab - I have not heard any news on new dealer or service provider. But am anxiously awaiting for something here in the US, as I am sure many others are as well! Let me know if you hear anything definite.
07-12-2022, 11:52 AM
#4985
My Feedback: (360)
Moki New Distributor
BTW, I did just recently have to send my 250 back to Airworld in Germany for service, since there is currently no other option in the USA to my knowledge.
The price was fair, as the Euro is now almost 1-1 with the dollar. Turn around was about 4 weeks. But the shipping costs, as you would expect, was astronomical.
-Mike O.
The following users liked this post:
GeorgiaFlyer (07-15-2022)
07-12-2022, 03:12 PM
#4987
My Feedback: (2)
I have info from reliable source that CARF will be the new importer/distributor of the Moki lineup in the US. They are even re-branding the motors as CARF 250's in the over seas market; I would expect that they will be doing the same here. They are in the process of trying to setup a US service center. This is all that I was told.
BTW, I did just recently have to send my 250 back to Airworld in Germany for service, since there is currently no other option in the USA to my knowledge.
The price was fair, as the Euro is now almost 1-1 with the dollar. Turn around was about 4 weeks. But the shipping costs, as you would expect, was astronomical.
-Mike O.
BTW, I did just recently have to send my 250 back to Airworld in Germany for service, since there is currently no other option in the USA to my knowledge.
The price was fair, as the Euro is now almost 1-1 with the dollar. Turn around was about 4 weeks. But the shipping costs, as you would expect, was astronomical.
-Mike O.
J Tab
The following users liked this post:
GeorgiaFlyer (07-15-2022)
07-12-2022, 11:44 PM
#4988
The following users liked this post:
joneswarren (07-31-2022)
07-18-2022, 03:36 PM
#4990
This is welcome news. I have a partially completed CARF model with a Moki purchased with the kit from CARF that I bought second hand. Happy to hear a resource available for Moki engines in the US
07-24-2022, 12:38 PM
#4992
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello all, I am installing the CH ignition for my Moki 250cc and the latest fuel it was used was VP Racing Motorsport 103 fuel. I cannot longer get that fuel, so I have two options, AV Gas or fuel pump gas. Which do you recommend?
The VP racing fuel never gave any problem at all, the engine was reliable and running great (with the round original ignition).
Thanks.
Roberto
The VP racing fuel never gave any problem at all, the engine was reliable and running great (with the round original ignition).
Thanks.
Roberto
07-24-2022, 03:20 PM
#4993
My Feedback: (2)
Hello all, I am installing the CH ignition for my Moki 250cc and the latest fuel it was used was VP Racing Motorsport 103 fuel. I cannot longer get that fuel, so I have two options, AV Gas or fuel pump gas. Which do you recommend?
The VP racing fuel never gave any problem at all, the engine was reliable and running great (with the round original ignition).
Thanks.
Roberto
The VP racing fuel never gave any problem at all, the engine was reliable and running great (with the round original ignition).
Thanks.
Roberto
Please report back sometime and let us know your opinion of the CH Ignition.
Regards - J Tab
07-26-2022, 10:59 AM
#4994
Senior Member
Hey guys.
We tried to run and start one of the 2 new Moki 180 the day before yesterday . I sayed tried, as the engine was only able to run for a couple of second and then dies. We tried to start for 2 hours and then we could get it to run for a couple of minutes. Runs really rough and the lower cilinders didn’t fire. We tried to run it leaner with limited results. If you go full power, it sounds like all cilinders are firing but when you go to mid or idle you miss one or 2 cilinders.
yesterday we tried to start it again. Same result. 3 man with a sour shoulder trying to start the damn thing.
some fact:
- 2s lipo used on Ignition
- fuel 1:40 like they do in the factory
- removed the plugs couple of times to make them dry
-L need 1,75 open. H needle 1,25 open
-pulse line is clean (brand new engine)
I have a Saito 60 an 90 radial and they are so much easier to start and to adjust. Always a couple of flips and it runs. So we are a bit disappointed now. Any suggestions will be very much appreciated. I’ve read that an after market Ignition system seems to work better? CH or rainbowtronic? Good idea to leave the frustration behind and buy one of these directly?
We tried to run and start one of the 2 new Moki 180 the day before yesterday . I sayed tried, as the engine was only able to run for a couple of second and then dies. We tried to start for 2 hours and then we could get it to run for a couple of minutes. Runs really rough and the lower cilinders didn’t fire. We tried to run it leaner with limited results. If you go full power, it sounds like all cilinders are firing but when you go to mid or idle you miss one or 2 cilinders.
yesterday we tried to start it again. Same result. 3 man with a sour shoulder trying to start the damn thing.
some fact:
- 2s lipo used on Ignition
- fuel 1:40 like they do in the factory
- removed the plugs couple of times to make them dry
-L need 1,75 open. H needle 1,25 open
-pulse line is clean (brand new engine)
I have a Saito 60 an 90 radial and they are so much easier to start and to adjust. Always a couple of flips and it runs. So we are a bit disappointed now. Any suggestions will be very much appreciated. I’ve read that an after market Ignition system seems to work better? CH or rainbowtronic? Good idea to leave the frustration behind and buy one of these directly?
After several experiments we still couldn’t start and run the Moki180 properly. We were so frustrated that we did not believe anymore in this engine.
After reading this tread we came to the conclusion that there are 2 Achilles heels on this engine.
1, fuel delivery
2, poor ignition.
We bought 2 Rainbowttonic ignitions. Removing the original ignition was very easy and a 15 minutes job.
UNBELEIVABLE!!! What a difference. The engine performed flawlessly and so easy to hand start.
We are so happy we finally have good running Moki’s.
Guys, if you have problems with your engine, consider a third party ignition and throw away the original. We bought Rainbow as we live in Europe but I believe CH is very good as well.
Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Last edited by Didier; 07-26-2022 at 07:41 PM.
07-28-2022, 04:00 AM
#4995
Interested to know exactly where located and if this "service center " is stocking or ordering parts. And who turns the wrenches. And what training they have received from the manufacturer. Curious blanket statement on this add....any one know details?
07-30-2022, 04:48 PM
#4996
Regards Tmac48
08-01-2022, 03:34 PM
#4997
Disregard the above, finally have a reply from Dr Gotz.
08-05-2022, 10:14 AM
#4998
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone know how to hookup the CH ignition for the Moki 250. I seem to have lost the instruction sheet to mine. I assume the lead with one red and one black wire is the power lead, there's one for a tach reading (which i'm not using), one three wire connector for the status LED, and a fourth one with four wires which i believe is for the magnetic crank position sensor.? This last one is the troublesome one: wire connected to ignition box is red/black/white/brown while wire from the magnetic sensor is black/white/red/brown. NOT IN THE SAME ORDER.
When i power up the unit (2 cell lipo) the red LED blinks as i spin the prop. But don't seem to be getting any spark? Please help CH not answering the phone.
When i power up the unit (2 cell lipo) the red LED blinks as i spin the prop. But don't seem to be getting any spark? Please help CH not answering the phone.
08-05-2022, 01:10 PM
#4999
Junior Member
Hello, I recently converted my Moki 150 to a CH Ignition. The CH Ignition included an adapter to match the Moki gray plastic connector to the CH Ignition connector. This worked fine but I wanted to go directly from the Moki braided four wires to the CH Ignition connector.
I used the supplied adapter to determine the color coding relation to the Moki wires. The Moki color sequence (starting with the blue coded wire ) goes Red/Black/Brown/White. I'd post pictures but I don't have that privilege .
So essentially I have a new connector end which matches the CH Ignition connector perfectly. The Moki wires are VERY fragile and takes some care is stripping and crimping the pins. The mating pins and connector are available on Hansen Hobbies.
I added some heat shrink tubing to secure the wires and the new connector. Very secure and no more Moki connectors to fail. Hope that helps.
I used the supplied adapter to determine the color coding relation to the Moki wires. The Moki color sequence (starting with the blue coded wire ) goes Red/Black/Brown/White. I'd post pictures but I don't have that privilege .
So essentially I have a new connector end which matches the CH Ignition connector perfectly. The Moki wires are VERY fragile and takes some care is stripping and crimping the pins. The mating pins and connector are available on Hansen Hobbies.
I added some heat shrink tubing to secure the wires and the new connector. Very secure and no more Moki connectors to fail. Hope that helps.
