Where are you hiding your switches?
#1

Thread Starter
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newark, OH
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Curious as to where most of you are "hiding" your switches on your warbirds. I seldom see external switches on the nicer warbirds, and can't figure out what you're doing with them?
I've got 2 switches, 2 charging jacks, air system fill valve, air pressure gauge, fuel fill dot... I think that's it... I can't figure out where to hide this stuff so it doesn't ruin the scale appearance?
I've been told that you need to keep your kill switch for the ignition external and "easily accessible" for emergencies (on gassers) but I never see those kill switches on warbirds. When I went to the Toledo show, I didn't see one switch or filler valve on a single warbird! Are warbird builders compromising safety for appearance?
I know some guys hide them behind access hatches. But, the two storage hatches on my SBD are half way between the cockpit and the tail on each side of the fuse. I'd hate to have to run all that wiring and airline all the way back there and double back up to the front to complete the loop.
Neo
I've got 2 switches, 2 charging jacks, air system fill valve, air pressure gauge, fuel fill dot... I think that's it... I can't figure out where to hide this stuff so it doesn't ruin the scale appearance?
I've been told that you need to keep your kill switch for the ignition external and "easily accessible" for emergencies (on gassers) but I never see those kill switches on warbirds. When I went to the Toledo show, I didn't see one switch or filler valve on a single warbird! Are warbird builders compromising safety for appearance?
I know some guys hide them behind access hatches. But, the two storage hatches on my SBD are half way between the cockpit and the tail on each side of the fuse. I'd hate to have to run all that wiring and airline all the way back there and double back up to the front to complete the loop.
Neo
#3

My Feedback: (14)

I have seen three techniques successfully to hide switches.
First, and you mentioned it already, scale or scale-like hatches with magnetic catches. On my Aerotech P47, the ignition on/off and charge jack is under one such panel on the font of the fuse right behind the cowl. I leave it open during startup for fast access in case of emergency.
Second, on my Yellow Zero, I "hid" the ignition switch and chage jack under the top lip of the cowl so that it is visible only from the rear of the plane, and easily accessible to the helper during start ... and invisible elsewhere. Worked out well on that plane since there is about a 3/4" gap between the cowl and the fuse at that point.
Third, on my Bearcat, the canopy area is removable with two of the BVM spring loaded pins, and all the switches are inside .. and we leave the canopy off while starting .. of all three approaches, this one is the most "questionable" since access takes a few seconds if the canopy is put back on...
And, on some of my "to fly (alot)" vs. super-scale warbirds, the switches are mounted in the fuse sides per std practice...
Dave
First, and you mentioned it already, scale or scale-like hatches with magnetic catches. On my Aerotech P47, the ignition on/off and charge jack is under one such panel on the font of the fuse right behind the cowl. I leave it open during startup for fast access in case of emergency.
Second, on my Yellow Zero, I "hid" the ignition switch and chage jack under the top lip of the cowl so that it is visible only from the rear of the plane, and easily accessible to the helper during start ... and invisible elsewhere. Worked out well on that plane since there is about a 3/4" gap between the cowl and the fuse at that point.
Third, on my Bearcat, the canopy area is removable with two of the BVM spring loaded pins, and all the switches are inside .. and we leave the canopy off while starting .. of all three approaches, this one is the most "questionable" since access takes a few seconds if the canopy is put back on...
And, on some of my "to fly (alot)" vs. super-scale warbirds, the switches are mounted in the fuse sides per std practice...
Dave
#5

Thread Starter
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newark, OH
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

ww2birds,
Thanks, makes sense. I think I'll be in the same scenario as you were in your "second scenario" with my kill switch. I've got a similar gap between my firewall perimiter and the back edge of my radial cowl. I might just set up that switch there.
Still not sure about the air system valves and radio switch. I might even be able to "hide" the radio switch in the gunner's radio compartment when I build the cockpit up. Kinda ironic... puttin' the "radio switch" in the scale gunner's "radio compartment"?
Foxx,
You tricky devil... so that's why they call you "foxx"?
What about your gas filler/fuel dot... same place? Seems like you might risk getting gas in/on your switches if so??
Neo
Thanks, makes sense. I think I'll be in the same scenario as you were in your "second scenario" with my kill switch. I've got a similar gap between my firewall perimiter and the back edge of my radial cowl. I might just set up that switch there.
Still not sure about the air system valves and radio switch. I might even be able to "hide" the radio switch in the gunner's radio compartment when I build the cockpit up. Kinda ironic... puttin' the "radio switch" in the scale gunner's "radio compartment"?
Foxx,
You tricky devil... so that's why they call you "foxx"?
What about your gas filler/fuel dot... same place? Seems like you might risk getting gas in/on your switches if so??
Neo
#7

In my Pica FW190D I mounted the switches in the cockpit. I made a sliding cockpit and hid the switch and recharge plug in back of the pilots seat.
#8

Thread Starter
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newark, OH
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Burl,
Cool! Thanks for the pic (I'm a "visual" person). I've got some of those hinges you're using. What about that latch?
Awesome looking planking job... how'd you form the door for the hatch?
Neo
Cool! Thanks for the pic (I'm a "visual" person). I've got some of those hinges you're using. What about that latch?
Awesome looking planking job... how'd you form the door for the hatch?
Neo
#9

My Feedback: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bakersfield,
CA
Posts: 3,470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

thanks NEO, I knew you would appreciate pics
The planking was..well, a pain in the arse! but well worth it!
The door is actually the planking? I decided where I wanted
the hatch, marked it, and cut it out. I CA'd the back side for some strength, and attached the Sonictronic hinges as shown. I can snap more pics if nec.
The latch is from BVM. I was on there site one night looking at cool carbon fibre stuff, and ordered a few things I didnt need
Well, I found a "need" for one of the parts I ordered!
works very well. got the main idea from a good ole British bloke back east from his website originally
Todd

The planking was..well, a pain in the arse! but well worth it!
The door is actually the planking? I decided where I wanted
the hatch, marked it, and cut it out. I CA'd the back side for some strength, and attached the Sonictronic hinges as shown. I can snap more pics if nec.
The latch is from BVM. I was on there site one night looking at cool carbon fibre stuff, and ordered a few things I didnt need

Well, I found a "need" for one of the parts I ordered!
works very well. got the main idea from a good ole British bloke back east from his website originally

Todd
#12

My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Seguin,
TX
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

NEO, Here is a link to page 3 of my 109 build up. I built 2 seperate hatches for switches. The one up front is for the ignition kill switch. It is in the scale location for the oil tank filler on the full size. The rear is for the radio switches and air fill. It is in the rear hatch location on the full size.
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/me109page3.html
I also have this same setup on my spitfire:
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/spitfireII.html
Evan Q.
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/me109page3.html
I also have this same setup on my spitfire:
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/spitfireII.html
Evan Q.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ravensdale, WA,
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

A good place to hide the air filler port is in the wheel well.
I made my on-off switch for my radio resemble a pitot tube.
I made my on-off switch for my radio resemble a pitot tube.
#18


Also you can hide switches in easily and quickly acessible places. On warbirds you can use the guns as switch levers. since there is a chance of bumping accidentally to off position just pudh in your gun for on and pull for off. the hatches everyone is showing workes great for fillers etc. I have also seen a guy use his antenna mast as a switch push in for on pull for off.
Joe
Joe
#19

Thread Starter
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newark, OH
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Wow, a lot of great ideas I never would have thought of. This gives me some options to explore. What kills me is that 12-14 inch "nuetral zone" that I have to maintain between my engine components and radio/servo components (RF issues). That and limited "scale hatches" eliminates a lot of possibilities, but still should be able to find something.
You can't imagine how "little room" I have left inside my fuse for this stuff when you factor in the smaller 1/6 scale, the 14" nuetral zone, and a full 2-man cockpit with a floor that goes almost down to the wing! Gettin' real crowded in their now!
Thanks,
Neo
You can't imagine how "little room" I have left inside my fuse for this stuff when you factor in the smaller 1/6 scale, the 14" nuetral zone, and a full 2-man cockpit with a floor that goes almost down to the wing! Gettin' real crowded in their now!
Thanks,
Neo