New ones are supposed to have the new ignition. I would verify that it does.

cool :)

Where would you recommend purchasing the motor from?

http://vogelsang-aeroscale.com/

Gotz is the most knowledgeable guy I know on these engines. He knows the German designers personally. He has good support and is a qualified service source.

He is also a dealer for CARF, another group of Germans he knows personally.

Tell him I sent you.

This is all the clearance you will have in the cowl with the Moki 215 / 250.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973439

Perfect Gary, I just need to put blocks in to raise the flap servo, this was obviously an error on their part. I got the aileron servo in last night, wasn't as bad as I thought it would be… happened to have the perfect length phillips screwdriver!

sounds good Mike. Yea, that aileron servo takes a long screw driver with a magnetic tip.

Baffles all done. A guy could air brush another bank of cylinders on the baffles. That would look pretty cool.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973636 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973637 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973638 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973639 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973640 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973641 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973642

Hi Gary,
Really nice work with the cowl etc. I do not know what your final paint finish will be on the baffles, but you may want to try a glossy very dark black sheen rather than a flat black/grey (say use satin of gloss fuel proofer). In my view this tends to make the baffles appear to be much further back then they are and they "disappear" more effectively than a surface that does not reflect the surrounding light as well so stands out. At least that is what I have found on my Corsair but I do have two more cylinders to play with ;)!

Cheers
Ed

Thanks Ed. Good tip. I'll leave the inside flat and paint the baffles gloss. What do you think?

Yes just the baffles which you see head on as a large flat area. I often wondered how it would look to make baffles out of clear heat resistant Perspex or some clear plastic and spray them black from the rear side (which would give a good reflective effect from the front), or even leave it clear, or use a thin sheet of something clear and sandwich a photo or something suitable in between that and the baffle, bit like your airbrushed cylinder idea, to give a 3d dummy engine effect.
Cheers
Ed

Accessory update. My new aluminum instrument panel for this aircraft is now in production. As with everything we offer, it is American made. I will keep you all posted in the thread.

WOW Ed!!!!!! What a great idea. I never thought of doing that. So much easier than trying to paint them. A guy could take a picture of the Moki cylinder and use that. Just add some fading to give depth. That is definitely filed away for future use.

Keep them coming buddy.

Wonder if a vinyl decal would hold up under there. Those could be added to what I already have.

Here is the weight of my stainless steel engine and cowl flap stand-offs. As you can see, almost a pound for just these items, and all in front of the firewall. What this gives you is more flexibility with battery location in the fuselage.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1973736

Was hoping to paint this one prior to installing the cockpit, but the Ohio weather is not cooperating, so on with the construction. First the canopy. This needs done before paint anyway. It the past, I have installed the front rails against the inside of the fuselage as it is. Although this works, it is not scale. Reason, the cockpit area on the Corsair has a considerable taper, front to rear. As the full scale canopy can not bend or flex in as it slides back, the rail needs to be parallel. This means that a wedge was needed between the rail and fuselage. Here is a picture of the full scale showing this.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974678

If you don't install the rails as the full scale, your canopy is actually pinching together as is slides aft. I decided to add the wedges this time. I used bass wood and will stain it as the full scale. I used Hysol on the inside to complete the install.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974681 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974682 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974683 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974684 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974685

For the rear rails, I don't like the embossed location from CARF. I locate them higher So I can catch more of the canopy material. The taper is far less with the rear set of rails, but none the less, the full scale rides in rails that are parallel as well, so the canopy gets tighter to the fuselage as it slides forward. Here, I mount them flush with the fuselage. The flex is very slight when open.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974696 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974699 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974703 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974704 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1974705.

My cockpit set for this Corsair model is back in stock.- look under the 1/5 scale section. All items are also available individually.

What I would like to see is someone make cockpit nomenclature available.

Hi Gary, if you do not mind me putting in a plug, you could try Nigel at flightlinegraphics.com in the UK. He did the rubdown cockpit and aircraft nomenclature for my Storch and has done work for Corsair owners so might have something on file. Like all these guys he is stacked up with work but is always helpful and works with you to provide exactly what you want, including supplying proofs and placement details so you know exactly what you are getting.

As regards the 1/5 cockpit, just as with the Carf Mustang and Spitfire which are also approx. 1/4.5, a better starting point in my view might be to get the 1/4 scale version (not sure if everything is available now at 1/4 scale) and work from there. Either way it is a compromise.
Cheers
Ed

Gary,

What type of glue or epoxy is the white stuff you used on the rails?

What glue do you use on your planes that has a little flexibility but is really strong? I have used the LHS 30 minute and 5 minute epoxy but it seems to be brittle.

Thanks

Keith

Ed, thank you for the info. I'll look into it. i have done some of my own nomenclature, but my problem is a lack of computer skills. I know is it much easier for guys with these skills.

As far as the cockpit goes, I agree. I'm working on another CARF Corsair cockpit this week and will be sharing as usual. I have some recommendations but more on this later.

Hello Kieth. The glue is Hysol E-20HP made by Loctite. It has a 20 minute working time, does not heat up and run out of where you put it, is high strength, and has exceptionally high peel / shear strength. It is an off-white color, but what you see on the rails was mixed with micro balloons, so it looks much whiter. I usually mix it with micro balloons aft of the CG, and with our Steel Powder in front of the CG. It is expensive, but well worth it IMO. You can sometimes fine it on eBay, but this last batch I ordered was about $70 for a 400ml tube. It takes a special gun with dual plungers to dispense it. That I bought at Granger. It does come in a number of smaller sizes that are easier to find. I have the gun, so I always get the largest tube. A web search will bring up several sources.

One of the greatest things about it, aside from it's exceptional strength, is that it stays where you put it. You can almost form it around things. This is even better with some micro balloons added.

Here is what it looks like in the gun.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1975050 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1975051

This applicator/mixer goes the nose of the tube. By the time the glue reaches the tip, it is mixed and ready to go. You loose what is in the mixer, and the mixer. I just dispense it in a container and mix it myself.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1975052

I use a variety of adhesives in building, but for things which require high strength, flexibility, shock resistance, and high tensile strength, I use Hysol.

Back to the cockpit. I will be posting more this week, but briefly, I prefer to use the cockpit sold by Balsa Dynamics, although I do like some of the offerings by Iflytailies, like their instrument panel switches and warning lights. Very cool. As for their cockpit kit, although it looks nice, and the instrument size is very close for this Corsair (6.75"X 2.5"), it leaves so much out. Not sure on the size of the rest of the parts as no dimensions are listed. How you "trim" these for other scale sizes without compromising the parts is a bit of a mystery to me. Anyway, let me explain.

As most of you builders know, a really scale cockpit is just not out there in any form. With the Balsa Dynamics version, although you will need to build many things yourself if bad ass competition scale is your goal, you can put together a complete looking cockpit, less nomenclature. Included are things like the side walls (with molded ribs not just panel lines), the very important dash switches on either side of the gun sight (also included), a very nice soldered tubular brass pilot seat superstructure, control yoke, right and left control panels, and more. As already stated, more scale will need to be added to all these parts if competition is the goal. Now the thing I don't care for in this cockpit kit, even in a 'sport scale' bird, is the instrument panel. Looks about as good as the CARF stock wing intakes. You CARF owners know what I mean. This I am addressing with my new all aluminum panel with aluminum bezels, bezel screws, instruments and lens material.

I'll be adding to the collection of cockpit and canopy pictures in the thread as the week continues. Hope to have all this done in a few days, again :<).

This one will not be Top Gun static bad ass scale, but will be what I would consider somewhere between that and sport scale. We'll see.

Back to work.:)

Ed, sent Nigel a message. We'll see. Thanks again.

No joy but got a nice email from Nigel. He does not have any interior stuff for the Corsair on file. In the meantime, work continues.