Thanks :)

Its actually real aluminum ;) ... well, its thermally plated aluminum over the CARF Jug. Its the Metalmorphous process Its not an imitation foil, but actually real metal fused to the substrate material ( fiberglass ) It wont wrinkle, or dent with even bumping tools into it ( unless the underlying glass dents ) scratches polish out just like a real plane would :)

We actually are now exclusively handling the Metalmorphous service/product for the modeling community :)


:)







http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmtonkqV8FA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpWwdtS4PKY
oh yea, and here's my pilot ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPi-BgP3EYI ~V~

METAL-MORPH
Real Metal Aircraft and Parts Plating http://www.all-scale.com/images/SERVICE-img2.jpg
We can metal plate ANYTHING, and surface, any material. This is not an easy to denting aluminum sticker foil, its REAL ALUMINUM ( or aother metals) For the ultimate and unmatched DURABLE , seamles, and scale finish, nothing comes close to real metal thermal. plating. A finish surface of a bare aluminum aircraft just does not get any more real than this ! MORE


This is what I get when I click on MORE http://www.all-scale.com/SER2_MTL.html

04 Sorry! Page not found UNDER CONSTRUCTION coming soon
The page you are looking for might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.

Contact US
http://www.all-scale.com/images/email-sm.gif
[email protected]

Guess I'll have to be more patient!

Wow.........If I missed it earlier in this forum, I apologize for asking again........but what is that plane covered with? or painted? Jeeezzzz, that looks great. The rivest and screws look so real...

Captain Ron

lol......NEVER MIND, found it right above.

I'd like to offer another opinion on aluminum finish. Here is why I like the foil approach. I am not looking for"seamless" in my panels. With foil (which is indeed real metal) I can apply the scale panels just as the full scale had. Then, the foil lends itself very well to embossing additional details like rivets, screws, and other fasteners, panels, hatches, etc. Next, the scratches, dents, scrapes, dings, and other defects, for me, just add to the petina these work horses had in combat. Also, with a small learning curve, I can do all this myself, as with paint.

plating is a fascinating process. guess I like all the things you can do to the foil after it is applied and how real out looks when sanded and detailed.

I agree Gary, everyone has their preference and look., But I can not agree that foil can ever match a plated finish. Plating is one part .. the details are what comes after... Different materials, different techniques, different results ... Here's one example of what you can not do with foil though ;) ... ( at least not without tearing it, having to reaply it, etc ... plating is also lighter in weight ) ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itD2WbaLic0 now this was only 2 min ... On the aircraft, we take a buffer at it :)


As for panels, and details they can be scribed, or recessed with a hot edge. The other option is to double mask and replate, and then its like the real deal, layered aluminum panel effect. Rivets are as easy as doing them on any composite model,. As for screws, I personally prefer to use real ones ;) .

I have seen some amazing aluminum foil finishes, and have done a number of planes with them myself over the years. It takes a lot of work, and in the end, you have to sand out all the orange peel that's left because of the glue backing. If the plane is not handled with gloves, even a finger nail dents it. Granted, the Metalmorph process is costly, compared to a few hundred $ of foil., but on the other hand the foil does take a lot of time, and even more to make look decent ( as in Joe Grice master scale quality ) .. so its one vs the other in that respect .. I know I can't do with foil what some guys can .. there are way better modelers out there than me for sure!

then there are just some things you will never do with foil ... (Like covering a whole tank, with no seams, or having a smooth surface that wont ripple )

The finish in the pictures however, ( i know, one is not scale , .. ) you just can not get with any kind of foil .. especially if one was to compare side by side :p
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957520http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957521http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957522http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957523http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957524http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957525

(The F-86 was built by Greg Anixter, and just placed 7th at the WJM in 2013. This was a 8+ year old plane, and the pilots first go at this competition.. The P-38 is Ron's .. Mr. Metalmorphous himself .. both incredible aircraft which no picture will ever do justice )

thats enough with the off-topic however ;)


~V~ :)

Does anyone know if the D model ever had dive brakes ?? I put dive brakes on mine as i just think they are neat and i could not resist, and i do not plan to compete so that wont matter .. I have found pictures of D models where it looks like the mountings are available for the dive flaps/brakes, but never with them on ...



~V~

I can't sit here and try to say that the p-38 or the f-86 doesn't look absolutely amazing, but I don't even want to imagine the cost. A little beyond my pay grade.

New Member Update!
 

Brothers,

The following NEW MEMBERS were added today; should you forget your membership number please see the membership list that is attached to post #2 for your membership number!

[TABLE="width: 500"]
[TR]
[TD]mirce
[/TD]
[TD]P-47 Thunderbolt Brotherhood #104
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]sparky4lawndart[/TD]
[TD]P-47 Thunderbolt Brotherhood #105[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

We currently stand at 105 members of the P-47 Thunderbolt Brotherhood


*** NOTE*** I ONLY ADD YOU TO THE MEMBERSHIP LIST IF YOU REQUESTED IT

That's the problem as I see it from my pilot seat. I saw above where Wojtek is spending over 3,000.00 spagoalies to get his jug done...............WHAT? And you still have to ship whatever your gonna have plated to the people. Your absolutely correct Steve, The final result is amazing, My bet is 99% of the average RC warbird pilots out there can't afford those kinds of luxuries. My hat of off to Wojtek for spending extra dollars, time and efforts to have a very unique and realistic looking Thunderbolt, not to mention the CARF Thunderbolt is a masterpiece in it's own right.

Just my two cents, Captain ron

I say "To each his own" But on the other hand If I don't spend it My Children (Daughter) will.
Or "He who dies with the most TOYS Wins". But after Your Dead Your Flying Buddys are gona
pick through our "Air Plane Junk" anyway.

I can't do it in paint to suit me, like some can, and I can't afford plating, so I use the foils we have available. amazing things can be done with them with some practice, and in short time as well. i would like to try the plating on maybe some drop tanks or cowls. Now that would be cool.

I'd say plating is at the top of the list if you have the cash. Foil next if you have the skill and time. Then there is my approach which was to model a subject that wears a camo scheme with relatively little natural metal finish. I used KlassKote aluminum #80 paint and steel wooled it with 00 then 0000 for my metal finish areas. I'm happy with the result and in the end that is what it is all about, a matter of compromises that you have to be able to live with. To me, my self-finished Jug will look far better than my ARF Jug even with the metal finish compromise.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957688

Greg, any tips on the use of Klass Cote? Getting ready to paint a war bird with it. (not an aluminum finish)

Thanks.

Thanks for having me... I just glassed the top of the wing with 1.45oz CST glass and West Systems 105. I chickened out using PolyAcrylic as I nearly passed out with the fumes testing on another sport flyer fuselage... eyes were burning and my chest hurt with that stuff...

You should be proud Greg. That's a top notch finish you got there. The weathering looks very realistic. I would be very happy if any of mine came out that well.

My airplane trailer will be pulled behind the hearse,ALL MY STUFF will go in the tomb like an Egyptian King.....is that over the top?

Lmao!!!

actually, here is an idea to top it all off ;)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1958017




~V~

here is an idea on sliding canopies with linear actuators. I had posted it in another thread, however I know a lot of other P-47s could benefit from this as well :) .. these are from Firgeli . They come in various stroke lengths, and speeds ...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ELlFYCT1ZM ~V~

Good point

Nice

Thanks Steve, very kind.

Gary,
1. Reduce it with lacquer thinner, no need to use the KlassKote reducer. I use the Kleen Strip brand available at Walmart for about $18 a gallon.
2. 1:1:1 paint/catalyst/reducer works fine, however I usually add 20-25% to the reducer for a better flow-out of the paint after its applied with a paint gun. For airbrushing 25% additional will work fine, but for things like weathering and exhaust streaks I reduce it an additional 40%-50%. 3. After mixing part A and B do wait the minimum 30 minutes, and if you can wait 1 hour thats better. On that note, you can keep catalylzed KlassKote in a sealed container for at least 48 hours at room temp and at least one week if you refrigerate it.
4. Pull masking ASAP, the paint line will be softer after the paint flows out if you do that.
5. Recoat within 24 hours with no prep required. After 24 hours scuff lightly with medium (grey) scotchbrite (the earlier medium was green).
6. If you are going to spray on a "wash" mist coat reduce it 70%, then wipe it down with lacquer thinner (allow paint to cure for 4 days before doing this). You have up to 2 days to wipe more of the wash off if you come back the next day and think that the wash is too heavy.
7. A good quality dual cartridge respirator will filter the particles and fumes completely.
8. The satin catalyst leaves a pretty good sheen (you can get additional flattening powder) but if you hit it with 00 and then 0000 steel wool the finish is dead nuts on in my opinion. Also, wiping the finish down with reducer after a "wash" mist coat knocks it down even more.
9. The flattening material in the satin catalyst will thicken up in the bottom of the container when it sits for a couple of months. Use a paint store mixing stick and shaking to work it back into solution, it is actually pretty easy.
10. Once KlassKote is cured you can use thinner to wipe away mistakes if you screw up painting on a marking, subsequent coat or weathering.

I'll PM you my number, call any time if you have a question.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1958102