Using over the counter spay paint on Warbirds
 

i was wondering if anyone has used store brand spray paint to shoot your planes. i'm looking to shoot my corsair in the event it doesn't sell . as the weather gets warmer i don't want to have it sitting around this summer with no paint on it. i was looking at stuff like model master , rustoleum , kylon etc. the plane i'm looking to shoot is a byron corsair. i didn't want to get into buying a gun , paint and all the other stuff that goes along with painting. . any ideas . i thought about nelson's but i never used it before.

if you have a compressor a paint gun is cheap from Harbor freight or Home Depot I bought this one from HD and its served me well depending on where you live some rattle can paints don't hold up all that well to any fuel and def not glow.
I use water based paint as much as I can and the gun works great



http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1986680

i was going to use WB colors but i didn't like the idea that you had to clear after laying the color down , WB_1

you might want to talk to Chuck about weather or not the WBC needs clear coat for Gasoline power I know the Nelsons clear works well for fuel proofing when using the Glow fuel or this stuff is supposed to be good http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm
I still have some of my old WBC clear so when I run out of that I will try the LPU stuff and see how it goes my local paint store is a distributor for LPU products and said he can get it for me

Tim, you'll like it once you try it.


warbird_1
The problem I've had with OTC spray cans is the tips are so inconsistent, one will spary nice, the next spatter,, the next clog up,,, it's like a box of chocolates,,, and if you have to blend/fade colors instead of masking,, forget it.

i beleive i did talk to chuck awhile back and he did say i should clear even for gas . i was told that nelson's is system 3

+1

i did talk to nelson's and i have to add the fact that i was told that if i use the crosslinker i'd never get the paint off. the only thing is i'd rather have a chemical bond rather than a mechanical bond which WBC and nelson's is.

I use nothing but model masters and lustre coat clear o my models. I have also used rustoleum rattle can aluminum paints . Still wish I could get my hands on that corsair......:rolleyes:

i still have it lol

Just in case. I have a NIB spray gun set for short money. Just add air and paint. Email me for info and pictures. Can use the sprayer for just about anything.

Mike

[email protected]

You can get catalysed paint mixed in spray cans at most autobody pain supply stores..

I painted my Corsair as jungle camo finish (Hunduras air force) using Krylon spray can from Walmart. They carry the flat camo colors. It's enamel so gas resistant.

A good paint job can be achieved with aerosol cans, it you exersise care and patience.

As with any paint job, preperation is the key.

As for aerosols, Im not a fan of Krylon. I can't seem to get a consistant finish when I use it.

I've had good luck with Rustoleum aerosol cans. I use one of the trigger attachments. I painted the Cub, pictured below, with Navy Blue Rustoleum aerosol cans.

rustoleum takes a little while to become tack free, so be patient. After it is dry to the touch, I like to place the model outside. UV rays seem to aid the curing process for most paints. I usually wait a day, before placing a model outside, though. This is no time to be in a hurry.

I recently painted a bipe with Ace brand aerosol cans. It sprayed nicely and provided a smooth finish. The paint dries to the touch as quickly as Krylon, but has the higher gloss, like Rustoleum.

looks nice tom . have have a rusto dealer at a paint store. i might go check it out. WB_1

The only negative to Rustoleum, in my opinion, is the spray nozzle. The cans are designed so that they will spray inverted. This means that you can't clear the tip, in the usual fashion.

You may find that a partially used can won't function, after a few months.

Around here, Menard's has the best selection, and lowest prices, for Rustoleum. If you have one near you, check them out.

Tom:

What covering did you use on the Cub and what did you do for a base coat/primer? Also, did you put a clear coat over the Rustoleum?

Bill Hodges

Warbird 1,
I have had great results with rustoleum and Krylon ( really sticks to plastic, fiberglass parts well).
1. If your corsair is monokote covered, take 800 grit and wet sand it for a better adhesion. If fiberglass, just prep as normal.
2. Fuel prof is a must for gas over rattle can I have used min wax poly in the gold can. It has a natural Matt effect and goes over gloss or sating colors just as well.
3 for glow engines, I use the top flight fuel proofer clear. Let the colors dry at least a couple of days and spray it in light coats and don't rush it. Then I add an extra layer where all the fuels residue will be.
4. Thanks for the nozzle info by TomC. I too have cans that are 1/2 full and the nozzle is clogged. I will try the gun handle idea.
5. For consistency, I have a scrap piece of cardboard that I always shoot with the rattle can to see what the nozzle is doing (nice flow or splatters). If smooth then and only then do I spray the model. Also need to start and finish before and after the part you are spraying. Example a wing panel start spraying before the leading edge, come across the wing and keep spraying past the trailing edge, then stop.

corsair glossy sea blue is very hard to achieve. I really like the version tomC has found. I would use that one and be very happy.
I once used mil standards and matched it with hobby proxy paints on a .60 size royal.
2 parts deep blue and 1 part black was the formula. The top flight glossy clear fuel proofed.

Some examples of my 1/5 scales in rattle cans: P-51. Used two silvers ( rustoleum on most of fuse and outer wings). Krylon on cowl area , inner wings to cover previous invasion stripes, and for other panel accents at various areas. I used plastic coat (car bumper touch up) silver for the stainless steal panel behind the exhaust area. Red, yellow Rustoleum, stars,bars top flight insignia blue. Min-wax clear coat.

Pica spit, all rustoleum and then min wax clear satin.

Same rustoleum spray cans and min-wax clear for my WW-1 models too with great results.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1986915http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1986916http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1986917I frequently use Krylon flat clear to take the shiny glossiness off of Ultracote. I wouldn't spray on flat clear if Ultracote came in flat colors I like, but spraying on Krylon flat clear over glossy Ultracote turns out so well I'm kinda hooked on it. Attaching the black handle-trigger-thingy to the top of the can does a much better job than simply spraying with your finger on the nozzle. I'm guessing the human finger wobbles on the nozzle but if you use the black-handle-trigger-thingy it puts consistent pressure on the nozzle for more consistent results.

Since I fly only electric planes (.60 and 1.20 sized) the Krylon flat clear doesn't need to be fuel proof. Don't know if Krylon flat clear is fuel proof or not.

The nozzles of some brands of paint have spray nozzles that produce an acceptable flow of paint. Was able to get good results with the nozzle that came with Rustoleum Primer, which I sometimes use for a grayish military look.

Have also used an airbrush with a can of airbrush propellant for small jobs. The white turtle deck on the King Kobra is done with an airbrush spraying white Faskolor. Faskolor is intended for the inside of Lexan canopies but I discovered spraying it on exterior surfaces produces the flat finish I like.

I don't have a compressor or a paint gun ....... I'll get one some day. My methods work ok for me but I fly electric only. When (if) I try gas or a turbine I might have to change my methods.

You can avoid having those Rustoleum nozzles clogging by pulling them off right after you’re done spraying and putting them in a thinner. After letting them soak in there for a couple of hours blow them out with those compressed air cans used to dust off computers. They will last until the can is empty. Dan.

From a custom painter... My name is Rod, and I do custom show cars and bike,,,,and sometimes a plane...lol...MANY times... Dupla color was VERY good about 5 years ago, I think they changed the stuff!! it doesnt work worth a damn now!! I used it on glow and gas, with no problem, and now it seems to be a fail no matter what I do...if you wanted to paint the corsair, go to the local Jobber' Paint store for automotive. but a basecoat/clearcoat product... dont need spendy,, but it WILL work and hold up to glow or gas...if you spill glow on your car, it don't ruin it right?? well its the same stuff... "I just know how RCU is, someone will question it".. its not a spray can though... keep it clean.... for the clear,,,,find a product call 2K.... the clear comes in flat or gloss,,,READ the instructions on the can!!! it has to be activated..

http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1

GOOD STUFF for the do it yourself-er

NOW..... you CAN use dupla-color THEN 2K over it....LIGHT COATS. I would put 2 light coats on, let sit over night,,,then clear first thing in the morning.....2K will be good for 24 hours I think, again, read the can!! if you want the flat look. use 2k flat, and do the same steps... you will have one hell of a nice corsair!!!...

Over in the jet forum we have had pretty good luck with Rustoleum Professional. There is not a great assortment of colors but it is much better than the regular Rustoleum. The nozzle delivers a better mist and when heated in a water bath.. the stuff goes on very smooth with little orange peel. Something to consider but not sure they will have the blue you need.

Have had good luck with Testers, Duplicolor, and the fast dry Rustoleum products. Pretty much never had a problem with any rattle cans as long as it is flat, or satin. If it needs to be shinny, I have never been able to get a good finish from a can, I do a urethane clear with a touchup gun. Full size gun waists too much clear, and the plane typincally has too many odd shapes to lay it down evenly
I like Testers model master in the airbrush when I need a specific color, and for accents and weathering. Lots of colors for little money. I know you're doing Corsair blue, but I have had great luck using Aluminum cast engine paints to simulate unfinished aluminum.

Ditto.. have used Testors MM's on a variety of planes without problem, including foam, top it off with some clear, good to go. Only downside is the stuff ain't cheap! Here's a couple shots of a foam Corsair I did, all paint you see is MM's, cut the stencils from frisket paper, weathered with artisit pastel chalks, them topped off with MM's flat clear.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1987004http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1987003

Bill

The covering is Solartex. I never prime over open bayed surfaces. It can lead to cracking. Rustoleum is somewhat flexible, so no cracking problem, when using it without primer. No clear coat was used.