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-   -   CY MODELS La-7//Evolution 160 radial (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-warbirds-warplanes-200/11640003-cy-models-la-7-evolution-160-radial.html)

n8622t 08-03-2017 12:14 PM

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Making some guns....they may be a little bigger than scale but they will make a bigger bang!!! Any of you guys know what the barrel is supposed to look like I would appreciate a pic. Surely they're not smooth on the outer barrel?

n8622t 08-03-2017 12:43 PM

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Do some cockpit work....start with the hard part, cutting the canopy

n8622t 08-03-2017 12:47 PM

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Looks like gun blisters have to be placed out of scale location....bummer!!

n8622t 08-03-2017 01:38 PM

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Good enough for government work...

n8622t 08-03-2017 03:50 PM

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Have to do something about that nasty gap!!!

n8622t 08-04-2017 06:49 AM

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I'll install these after the plane has been painted

n8622t 08-04-2017 10:23 AM

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Ready to glue these in

n8622t 08-04-2017 10:26 AM

Now on to the gun blisters

warbird04 08-04-2017 11:26 AM

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So, I am back from holidays. I post you some pictures about the canopy. For the sliding canopy, I make an aperture that is 250 mm long, and 3.5mm height. I make 2 sliders with plywood at 130mm long, that has an "T" form, with 5mm and 3mm height, the tickness is 4mm.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.

warbird04 08-04-2017 11:43 AM

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For the cooling, you see my openning into the firewall. I make an big bore into the below of the fuselage, where the belly scoop is situated. The hot air can exit into the fuselage, and through the side exhaust openning, and around the opening for the Keleos exhaust.
Take care that the up hot air can escape. In your case, the up hot air cannot escape, it forms an hot poached in the up part of the cowling. Do not forget that radials motor give of hot air around the complet cowling... This is my opinion, and experience about radials and cooling
But you make an good job, be continued...

warbird04 08-04-2017 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by n8622t (Post 12356916)
I believe that the La7 used a cooling radiator which was located on the belly inside an air scoop. I'll have to read my book again to see if that's correct

In the squadron signal LA 5/7 fighters, there is indicated that the Shvetsov ASh-82FN motor is air cooled...
What about a cooling radiator on the belly side for an air cooled radial ? Weird it is...

n8622t 08-04-2017 02:33 PM


Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12357512)
In the squadron signal LA 5/7 fighters, there is indicated that the Shvetsov ASh-82FN motor is air cooled...
What about a cooling radiator on the belly side for an air cooled radial ? Weird it is...

it's an oil cooler

n8622t 08-04-2017 04:07 PM


Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12357503)
So, I am back from holidays. I post you some pictures about the canopy. For the sliding canopy, I make an aperture that is 250 mm long, and 3.5mm height. I make 2 sliders with plywood at 130mm long, that has an "T" form, with 5mm and 3mm height, the tickness is 4mm.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.

So tell me warbird is that the original canopy that came with the kit? That's a really nice mod you did and adds a lot to the plane.
Thanks for sharing. I'll have to add this to my build. Keep posting man it's looking awesome!!

warbird04 08-04-2017 11:07 PM

Yes it is the original canopy. Cut away the originals mounting brakets, cut away the rear wood plate, make some finish job, and the job is ok. The two brass tube are 305mm long and 4x3mm diameter. The front bolds are the originals.
For best result, I have cut away the above former in the fuselage and on the canopy, and make a new on both, but 65mm backwards. This allow more space for pilot rooms, you can repositioning the pilot as the original size...
I make the pilot room and cockpit later, I want to finish the LA and test first flights befor I spend a lot time into cockpit work.

warbird04 08-04-2017 11:22 PM


Originally Posted by n8622t (Post 12357546)
it's an oil cooler

Ok, but where is going the hot air from the air cooled cylinders? Where is the escape?
I have see this point from the begining, and it is a big problem if you do not want to cut the full cowling with ugly openig.
The American radial Warbirds have all an space between motor cowling and fuselage, and this allow good cooling for us modelers. But the Russian make this différant, and for the models that is an critical point.
In all, I Wonder how the full LA works with cylinder cooling.... I trie to search more infos about this, it is an interesting point to clarify.

n8622t 08-05-2017 02:35 AM


Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12357625)
Ok, but where is going the hot air from the air cooled cylinders? Where is the escape?
I have see this point from the begining, and it is a big problem if you do not want to cut the full cowling with ugly openig.
The American radial Warbirds have all an space between motor cowling and fuselage, and this allow good cooling for us modelers. But the Russian make this différant, and for the models that is an critical point.
In all, I Wonder how the full LA works with cylinder cooling.... I trie to search more infos about this, it is an interesting point to clarify.

ok warbird, go back up to post #80 on this page and you will see the pics I posted of the two Louvre vents that will cover the large openings that will be cut into the bottom of the cowl....I think that with those two openings plus the two side vents, it should be enough to keep air moving across the cylinders.

n8622t 08-05-2017 02:44 AM

I started looking at the work you have done on your canopy...that is an awesome job!! I had not planned on doing a functional canopy but yours looks so nice I believe that I will use your method and do the extra work. Thanks for sharing that with me. I agree with you on the cooling thing with the La7. Everything I have read about the full scale claimed that the cockpit was extremely hot for the pilot that flew it, even in extremely cold temperatures. The oil cooler helped keep the engine cooled down but like you, I think the cowl kept a lot of the heat in and probably was the cause of the overheated cockpit. Those poor guys!!

n8622t 08-05-2017 03:05 AM


Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12357503)
So, I am back from holidays. I post you some pictures about the canopy. For the sliding canopy, I make an aperture that is 250 mm long, and 3.5mm height. I make 2 sliders with plywood at 130mm long, that has an "T" form, with 5mm and 3mm height, the tickness is 4mm.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.

Your solution for the hatch hold down with brass tubes is a super idea...I will use your set up on this as well, very nice!!!! That motor mount you made is awesome as well. A friend of mine just retro fitted his Saito 90 radial with a Walbro carb purchased from Morris Mini Motors. I included the link for you to look at. The link is for the 84cc radial and you have the 90cc, that means you only need the carburetor and not the adapter plate so it will be much cheaper for you. The Walbro has a choke which is a great advantage to have with any engine

n8622t 08-05-2017 03:06 AM

https://www.morrisminimotors.com/gas...rsion-kit.html

n8622t 08-05-2017 07:41 AM

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  • Check this out warbird .....

warbird04 08-05-2017 11:49 PM

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Ok thank you for the Morris motor link, but I have self modified the Fg-84 in my workshop...and i have the best results now, the motor runs as the stock Fg-90! Ray English modification that you find on you tube was a good basis, i have add another thinks, and now the motor is good. My other hobby is to self build model engines. See picture with some scrap parts that i used for test. I have disassemble the engine more than 50 times to run it good...
The original Saito carburetor has an choke, you must screw the M3.5 choke bar on it, close completly the butterfly, pull the chocke bar and turn the prop several times. That it is, as descripted in the saito manual!

The most big mistake that all people make, is to measure the cylinder temperature with infrared, and this is not reliable and repeatable (problems with china product, reflection color that false the measure, etc). I measure with temperature probs that are mounted on exhaust side, and this on each cylinder. I leave the probes mounted, add an good plug, an i can read the cylinders temperatures on the ground. So i can see if the cylinders overheat, and this with or without cowling. See the picture and the mounted probe on top cylinder, and the measuring bench.

Your cowling opening are good, and you can always first test the motor without or with cowling and see the difference if exist!
I am on work on my La with weathering...i post you pictures next time.

n8622t 08-06-2017 04:44 AM

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It's all I could finish yesterday ...just another day of fun

n8622t 08-06-2017 04:50 AM


Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12357858)
Ok thank you for the Morris motor link, but I have self modified the Fg-84 in my workshop...and i have the best results now, the motor runs as the stock Fg-90! Ray English modification that you find on you tube was a good basis, i have add another thinks, and now the motor is good. My other hobby is to self build model engines. See picture with some scrap parts that i used for test. I have disassemble the engine more than 50 times to run it good...
The original Saito carburetor has an choke, you must screw the M3.5 choke bar on it, close completly the butterfly, pull the chocke bar and turn the prop several times. That it is, as descripted in the saito manual!

The most big mistake that all people make, is to measure the cylinder temperature with infrared, and this is not reliable and repeatable (problems with china product, reflection color that false the measure, etc). I measure with temperature probs that are mounted on exhaust side, and this on each cylinder. I leave the probes mounted, add an good plug, an i can read the cylinders temperatures on the ground. So i can see if the cylinders overheat, and this with or without cowling. See the picture and the mounted probe on top cylinder, and the measuring bench.

Your cowling opening are good, and you can always first test the motor without or with cowling and see the difference if exist!
I am on work on my La with weathering...i post you pictures next time.

Hey Warbird, it looks like you are way ahead of me on the Saito subject. I plan on buying one very soon so I may be contacting you when I get my hands on the motor.

n8622t 08-06-2017 04:55 AM

My friend just ran his Saito 90 with the walbro carb from Morris yesterday and although the engine ran fine, it lost 700rpm as compared to the stock carb. The prop was a 24x10 used on both carbs so needless to say he's putting the original carb back on the engine

n8622t 08-06-2017 03:13 PM

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Glad to get these little screws installed and done

n8622t 08-06-2017 03:17 PM

Warbird I noticed in one of your pics that the inner gear doors are attached to a spring....would you mind describing that to me?

warbird04 08-07-2017 05:01 AM

Yes, the spring hold the door in opening position, and that is the wheel who close the door when the gear is retracted. The wheel support on the black stem and hold it in closed position
May be I upgrade the system as the full scale. But the principle is the same, but more reliable. It's a bit more complex to built. See the other La-7 cy models post on rcunivers, it's explain.

n8622t 08-07-2017 07:46 AM

Thank you I'll look at it

n8622t 08-07-2017 07:49 AM

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Now to cut the hatch out for switches and air inlet

n8622t 08-07-2017 07:58 AM


Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12358241)
Yes, the spring hold the door in opening position, and that is the wheel who close the door when the gear is retracted. The wheel support on the black stem and hold it in closed position
May be I upgrade the system as the full scale. But the principle is the same, but more reliable. It's a bit more complex to built. See the other La-7 cy models post on rcunivers, it's explain.

sorry warbird but I couldn't see the mechanism you used in the video. I'm assuming that you used a lever off the hinge line opposite the door and attached the spring to that and created an arm for the tire to ride against to force the door closed, does that sound right?

n8622t 08-07-2017 04:44 PM

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Done for the day :)

n8622t 08-07-2017 04:45 PM

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Ready to start tomorrow

warbird04 08-08-2017 06:36 AM

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I use a DuBro hinge, remove the axle, and make a new with piano wire. I make a spring (wire diameter is 0.5mm), outside diameter is aprox 4mm. For best results, i trie to make new spring, and this at left and right from the hinge, this avoids folding of the plastic hinge. Must test for see if better.

n8622t 08-08-2017 09:35 AM

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Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12358603)
I use a DuBro hinge, remove the axle, and make a new with piano wire. I make a spring (wire diameter is 0.5mm), outside diameter is aprox 4mm. For best results, i trie to make new spring, and this at left and right from the hinge, this avoids folding of the plastic hinge. Must test for see if better.

thanks for the info warbird .....really nice install!!!
i didn't like how soft the fuse belly was so I added some stringers and a former. Was yours like that??

n8622t 08-08-2017 05:46 PM

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Too much other stuff going on....that's all I could get done today

warbird04 08-09-2017 03:25 AM

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Originally Posted by n8622t (Post 12358661)
thanks for the info warbird .....really nice install!!!
i didn't like how soft the fuse belly was so I added some stringers and a former. Was yours like that??

My fuse belly is soft as yours...but i do not added some enhancement. On the other hand i epoxyed all former again, and specially the firewall. All the wood parts are glued factory side with bad glue... here is necessary to take a look on these glued parts and retake some epoxy if necessary. The worst glued parts is the radio plate, pull on the plate and this go away easly.

You have an good idee with your switch door, I like it.

I send you a picture about the finish painting and weathering, this is in progress on my fuse, the motor cowl is almost ready...

n8622t 08-09-2017 05:05 AM


Originally Posted by warbird04 (Post 12358849)
My fuse belly is soft as yours...but i do not added some enhancement. On the other hand i epoxyed all former again, and specially the firewall. All the wood parts are glued factory side with bad glue... here is necessary to take a look on these glued parts and retake some epoxy if necessary. The worst glued parts is the radio plate, pull on the plate and this go away easly.

You have an good idee with your switch door, I like it.

I send you a picture about the finish painting and weathering, this is in progress on my fuse, the motor cowl is almost ready...

that is an awesome finish warbird !!!

n8622t 08-10-2017 05:02 AM

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Some accomplishment yesterday

n8622t 08-10-2017 12:41 PM

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This switch hatch is kicking my butt!!!

n8622t 08-10-2017 12:43 PM

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Done for the day....


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