Ok thank you for the Morris motor link, but I have self modified the Fg-84 in my workshop...and i have the best results now, the motor runs as the stock Fg-90! Ray English modification that you find on you tube was a good basis, i have add another thinks, and now the motor is good. My other hobby is to self build model engines. See picture with some scrap parts that i used for test. I have disassemble the engine more than 50 times to run it good...
The original Saito carburetor has an choke, you must screw the M3.5 choke bar on it, close completly the butterfly, pull the chocke bar and turn the prop several times. That it is, as descripted in the saito manual!

The most big mistake that all people make, is to measure the cylinder temperature with infrared, and this is not reliable and repeatable (problems with china product, reflection color that false the measure, etc). I measure with temperature probs that are mounted on exhaust side, and this on each cylinder. I leave the probes mounted, add an good plug, an i can read the cylinders temperatures on the ground. So i can see if the cylinders overheat, and this with or without cowling. See the picture and the mounted probe on top cylinder, and the measuring bench.

Your cowling opening are good, and you can always first test the motor without or with cowling and see the difference if exist!
I am on work on my La with weathering...i post you pictures next time.

It's all I could finish yesterday ...just another day of fun

Hey Warbird, it looks like you are way ahead of me on the Saito subject. I plan on buying one very soon so I may be contacting you when I get my hands on the motor.

My friend just ran his Saito 90 with the walbro carb from Morris yesterday and although the engine ran fine, it lost 700rpm as compared to the stock carb. The prop was a 24x10 used on both carbs so needless to say he's putting the original carb back on the engine

Glad to get these little screws installed and done

Warbird I noticed in one of your pics that the inner gear doors are attached to a spring....would you mind describing that to me?

Yes, the spring hold the door in opening position, and that is the wheel who close the door when the gear is retracted. The wheel support on the black stem and hold it in closed position
May be I upgrade the system as the full scale. But the principle is the same, but more reliable. It's a bit more complex to built. See the other La-7 cy models post on rcunivers, it's explain.

Thank you I'll look at it

Now to cut the hatch out for switches and air inlet

sorry warbird but I couldn't see the mechanism you used in the video. I'm assuming that you used a lever off the hinge line opposite the door and attached the spring to that and created an arm for the tire to ride against to force the door closed, does that sound right?

Done for the day :)

Ready to start tomorrow

I use a DuBro hinge, remove the axle, and make a new with piano wire. I make a spring (wire diameter is 0.5mm), outside diameter is aprox 4mm. For best results, i trie to make new spring, and this at left and right from the hinge, this avoids folding of the plastic hinge. Must test for see if better.

thanks for the info warbird .....really nice install!!!
i didn't like how soft the fuse belly was so I added some stringers and a former. Was yours like that??

Too much other stuff going on....that's all I could get done today

My fuse belly is soft as yours...but i do not added some enhancement. On the other hand i epoxyed all former again, and specially the firewall. All the wood parts are glued factory side with bad glue... here is necessary to take a look on these glued parts and retake some epoxy if necessary. The worst glued parts is the radio plate, pull on the plate and this go away easly.

You have an good idee with your switch door, I like it.

I send you a picture about the finish painting and weathering, this is in progress on my fuse, the motor cowl is almost ready...

that is an awesome finish warbird !!!

Some accomplishment yesterday

Done for the day....

Finally!!! It's finished. Now on to the cockpit and canopy

Set cockpit location

Belly scoop is cut sanded and ready to mount. Glueing it on then calling it a day

It's officially 🍺 time

It's a good result that you have made with this hatch, an you have enough place for connect the plugs...well seen!