Wing Loading and Warbirds
 

Guys, what`s the best way ( or I guess plane, perhaps ) for transitioning into the less forgiving, higher loaded models? I`ve got more flying to do first, but I`ve soloed on an Avistar, can handle my second plane( Kyosho PT-19 )OK and am also flying a just-acquired 4*40. All of these are reasonably forgiving, but I " practice " for the less forgiving birds by leaving some throttle in on final on all of them, consequently landing somewhat " hot " at times. Is this good preparation? Should I move on to another model? Any advice appreciated.

RE: Wing Loading and Warbirds
 

Practicing throttle managment is a good thing. Landing the trainers hot is a good practice for the warbirds. Most warbirds need to land hot to eliminate the tip stall problems. As for a good start on a warbird, you might consider a Top Flite Gold edition. The P-47 and the Mustang are great planes. You do not need to trick them out to start, but they are a good platform to train with. Good Luck, Dave

RE: Wing Loading and Warbirds
 

As you're comfortable with your trainer, you could try adding some lead right on the cg. Won't affect the balance but it will force you (at your own pace) to land it hotter (and you won't be able to float it in).

An alternative is to build a spad (I LOVE the demon) a low wing tail dragger. That plane floats like an brick and will force you to fly it in.

RE: Wing Loading and Warbirds
 

Parrotman,
Interesting Handle... I went from trainers to a Spitfire. The eliptical wing is more forgiving. However, once you get the hang of it, none are impossible. The first take off tells you a lot about a model. My first Spitfire take off was a bit wobbly, but controlable. The key is to keep thinking ahead of the airplane and don't panic. My 15 year old is moving from his Avistar, (which he flies like a fighter plane) to a Great Planes P-51. He's going to a scratch built scale Spitfire I have built for him after that. My oldest son went from an Eagle II trainer to a Dynaflite P-51 and then a T/F P-40. He now flies full scale F-16's for the USAF! He still ocassionally flies his T/F P-40 when he has the time.

In short, you are the only one who can say when you are ready to advance. Get the Great Planes G2 Flight Simulator and practice until you can fly any airplane on the program with confidence. You'll be amazed at how much more a better pilot you'll be and how much money you'll save in crashes. I use mine regularly, and I fly with other guys on line. It's a BLAST!
Good luck.

"Keep 'Em Flying!"
Flak

RE: Wing Loading and Warbirds
 

There is only one problem with landing lightweights hot, they don't sink. I don't think you will really benefit from this, the local hobby store might. The idea of adding weight helps but still will not duplicate the characteristics of a low wing fighter. The high wing design is still too stable. I've flown a 66" H9 Cessna arf at 17lbs, you needed to keep the speed up or 'hot' as stated, but it still didn't perform like a warbird. The wing loading at 67oz. on this wing was tremendous. I've yet to have a warbird this high for the size. My vailly P-47 is 33lbs at 55oz loading but has a huge wing.

I think the term 'hot' is used incorrectly, warbirds come in under power but that does not mean you need gobs of airspeed. Most 40-60 size warbird ARF's tend to be light. A H9 60 mustang is in no way heavy and lands at a trainer pace. I got rid of my H9 corsair because it was so light you had to finesse it lightly onto the ground. If the wind was blowing it was all over the place. Kyosho's glass series and GSP FW and Corsair duplicate the handling of larger birds quite well. My first giant plane was a H9 PT-19 with a G-23. I don't think there was a better entry level arf for giant warbirds. Your Kyosho PT should be quite tame with sport model characteristics. A good stepper from the 4 star.

Here's an example of a biggie:

Take off with Ziroli P-40, line up into the wind, holding full up elevator gradually advance the throttle to 1/4 open, correct the yaw with rudder and start easing up on the elevator, keep advancing the throttle, at this point you should be ' flying the tail' which means it's up, you're controlling the nose over tendencey but not allowing the plane to leave the ground yet, at 3/4 throttle airspeed is coming up, the mains get light and a touch of elevator and it's up. Follow thru with full throttle for the climb out, ease off the rudder and it's gear up retrim for cg change.

Flying rules: No sharp turns, no bank and yank, nice long sweeping turns and calculated moves, throttle up for climbs and back for dives, mine flies well at 3/4 power. A large heavy bird will tend to have lots of inertia. When you turn it might overbank, coming out of a dive it will mush a bit in a turn it will slide. You need to be two steps ahead of the thing at all times. Know you're next move and where you will be placing it.

Landing: Make your landing break and drop the gear, retrim for the cg change (you can cheat with a mix) I usually will enter the pattern and make a circuit and reduce to about 1/2 throttle and drop flaps, correct any trim changes needed (or cheat with a mix, I do here) At this point, the plane has slowed down, the nose angle tends to drop down from the flap input but maintains level flight. Three greens, good to go, Alapha-kilo six-three-four turning crosswind..... now downwind and make sure you're happy with the trim, Alapha-kilo six-three-four turning base, at this point cut power back to 1/4, you will start decending slowly, Alapha-kilo six-three-four turning final, by now the plane will have slowed down but is still flying well, controls will still feel positive, back to 1/8 throttle, cross the threshold, let the flaps work, correct for yaw and keep the wings level , work your elevator to control the speed, pull up to slow, drop to increase, if you're low add a little power, the plane is not 'hot' but under power with a nice airspeed and sinking, touch the mains gently (I shy away from three pointers, this will tend to increase tip stall due to pulling the nose higher/angle of attack- watch most warbirds at airshows, not many fighters will 3 point) and cut power, keep flying ! the tail is gradually let down as your speed bleeds off, you will go through a point where rudder doesn't have enough airspeed and the tailwheel has too much. No major moves here, just light corrections until you stop rolling. Back taxi with canopy open and smoke that cigar !

Very few planes need to come in blazing 'hot', if you have a heavy AT-6 with no flaps then maybe but most well built warbirds with flaps don't need that. Under power means not at idle but not at 1/2 either, each will differ slightly in the ideal power setting.

As stated above, you have to be the one to decide when to move up.

S1

RE: Wing Loading and Warbirds
 

My favorite "transition" plane is the H9 Ultra stick. If you assemble it with the flaps you can get use to the flap system and with them deployed you can get use to steering with rudder, and only use ail. to keep wing level. This plane behaves like a warbird when flying slow, it is cheap, and it is a great plane to just hack around with. My .02