RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Actually mistral, those stacks are dummies. Those pics are from when I was finishing up the build and I hadn't piped up the exhaust at the time. For my exhaust, I just cut a small notch in the rear of the cowl and ran an extension from the muffler and through the notch. I wanted to do what you are thinking, but my plane is heavy from all of the mods and I had to make some choices. In hind sight, I would have left off a few minor details. I'm sure the plane will fly, but it will be "scale-like" to say the least.:)

Pete, I'm afraid she's just a hanger queen at this point. I'm close to flying BIG HOG, but I have to finish testing some props for the RCV 120SP and get it back in the plane.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Joe, woderful job!!

Some time ago, I posted some work-progress pictures of my TF Corsair.
Here's the finished plane, I'm about finish the assembly.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

You've done her proud, Marco! What's the final weight on her?

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Joe, it shoud take off on 5,1Kg (11.24lb). I'm on the heavy side... but fortunately the Saito 125 should give me hand in case of trouble... hope so...
What about your final weight?

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Joe
Awesome looking plane! That is the same color scheme I am going to paint mine. Seems to be a less common color. I am building the 1/8th scale. This is what I have in mind for my project:

1) Retracts front and rear with working doors(these I will need to do much research on)
2) Cowl flaps that are operated by the throttle servo so they open and close with throttle rpm respectively
3) Optional cockpit insert with a pilot who's head will turn with rudder movement
4) Optional simulated radial engine insert in cowl
5) I will be overpowering this bird with a RCV120 and at least a 3 blade prop with Hamilton (Standard)Sunstrand(where i am employed)logos and yellow tips
6) Keleo exhaust(unless it is too loud)
7) I will be covering it will Solartex.(supposed to be lighter from what I was told)
8) I may add a sliding canopy but am not sure what is involved yet
9) flaps are a must

I am not going to detail all the lines and rivets as some people have done. I am building this to fly and not show, but would like to put all the goodies on it that will seperate it from most. This will probably be my only build. My next plane will probably be a composite arf. They look really detailed and since I normally don't have much time to work on a build project, it would be better for me. I am in no hurry to finish this for I have my P-51 to fly, plus I need much more flight time under my belt before I attempt to fly my build. Well, thanks once again to all who have replied and I look forward to working with you guys on making my vision become a reality. I will post pics of my progress and ideas as they culminate.[sm=biggrin.gif]

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Marco, mine is a real porker at 13 lb. I used Sierra rotators (strong but heavier than others) with working doors (more weight), the RCV 120SP (an extra pound), laid up the lower fuse from the tailwheel doors back with resin and cloth for that retractable tailwheel(more extra weight), rotary aileron drivers because I didn't want control horns sticking out (a servo and 1/8" dia. rod in each wing), and dummy radial. Oh, and working flaps (I felt that was a necessity with all the extras anyway). I figure I added 2 lb. easy with all that and panel lines and other pretty stuff. It was (and still is) my intention to use a big 3 blade scale prop. I will maiden with a 2-blade because I know it will fly it, then switch to the 3 blade if I feel it will do the job. I've certainly built a brick.:)

rcman,

Build as light as you can! You're adding a bunch of stuff (even more than I did). My wing loading is outrageous and it will be a bear to fly. I used SolarTex for my tail feathers. After I ironed it on, I discovered that I could have used it all over. That's a smart move on your part. That stuff paints well. The doors are a pain in the butt, but mine seem to work fine. There are several ways of doing it. I started with a gear/door sequencer but took it out and opted for a spring open setup to save a few ounces. Depending on how it flies, I may put it back in. It worked the air valve, door servos, and tailwheel servo. It was neat.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Gotta agree with Joe Lott, especially since this is your 1st warbird:
Don't overdo it/ keep it light
The more weight you add, the more of a 'bear' it will be to fly, and the more stress will be imposed on the landing gear if it makes it that far.
These (Top Flite) Corsairs CAN be built as light as 8 1/2 lbs with flaps and 2 retracts. Heck, mine is just a little over 9 lbs with 3 gear retracts, flaps, AND a pair of Vortac bomb drops.
Again, if it will be your 1st warbird, you really should try to keep it as managable as you can. Then, when you feel that you have mastered it: build it as heavy as you like.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Corsair Jock,

You've done some electrics. Maybe you could give me some advice. What kind of setup (motor, esc, Li Po packs) would I need to convert this 13 lb monster? I would, if possible, like to keep my adjustable pitch, 17.5" 3-blade prop. I'm thinking that a big brushless just might be the way to go. I've looked into it a little bit, but this new technology hasn't fully sunk in yet.:) The motors I've seen are plenty powerful and light, but I figure the batteries to fly it would probably add some to the total weight. I'm thinking I would need enough power to really make it zip along to avoid the dreaded death roll. What would you suggest?

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

[&o] Joe
Don't give up on the mighty RCV yet!

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

I've converted 2 '.60 size' warbirds: (1) 8 1/2 lb Hangar 9 Corsair, and (2) 10 lb Top Flite Mustang ARF. Both use AXI 4130/20 motor, 6S 5000mAH 15C Lipo, & Castle Creations Phoenix 60 ESC, and are propped to draw around 30 amps static.

I'm thinking I wouldn't go much over 10 lbs with that setup, so I would suggest a setup with a little more power for a 13 lb bird. Actually, an AXI 4130/16 MIGHT work. with a swlightly bigger/ better 6S LiPo pack (25C?), and an 80 amp ESC.
Plug some numbers in here and see for yourself:
http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp

I would suggest propping it for a 40 ~ 45 amp current draw.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Thanks Jock,

That's exactly the kind of calculator I've been looking for. You've once again been a big help to one of us newbies. If I could get decent flight time out of 1 6 cell LiPo, I might even be able to trim a little weight off this pig.;)

Mistral,

I'm not giving up just yet. I think I was a little too optimistic in what I thought the SP was capable of. I realize that it can fly my bird easily with a big 2 blade prop, but I had my heart set on a nice 3 blader. From my bench test results, I just don't think it will pull it around at decent speed. I lost 1100-1200 rpm when switching to a 3-blade 18x12 Zinger. At 4300 rpm, that will just move it at slightly above stall speed! I am somewhat disappointed in my results. I know that Juice is doing great with his 90SP and his big custom prop (the one that I have and would love to use), but his bird is a couple of pounds lighter than mine. Those big electrics are not nearly as limited in output power, and they will totally eliminate any vibration problems and oily mess. With a little planning, I might even be able to add one of those aerosound units, and make it sound like a real P & W Double Wasp radial!

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Hey Joe
Did you use the diluted acetone bondo spot putty mixture to seal the fiberglass after one coat of resin or did you apply a second coat of resin?
bryan

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

I used the acetone-thinned spot putty. Just brush it on and sand it back off until you can only see it in the weave of the cloth and any dips you might have. If it starts to get thick (and it will), just add more acetone. It took 3 or 4 tubes, but most of it was sanded back off. It will sort of look like stained wood when you are there. I used those sanding sponges from Wal Mart.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Can anyone give me some ideas on what fuel tanks you have put in your topflite 1/8 scale planes? It calls for a 14 oz. tank which I placed in the space provided, but seems there is more room allowed for a larger one. The brand I bought was a Dupro. Thanks.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Plans call for a 12oz but if a 14oz fits go for it. Just make sure that you have enough room for some foam to wrap the tank to hold it in place.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Mistral, how are you coming along with the glassing? I found that it was much easier than I thought, and I really didn't have any reason to fear it.:)

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Weather permitting mine is ready to maiden this weekend. At 11lbs fully glassed and with Sierra retracts I guess it falls between the porkers and the featherweights! Have an OS91FX up front which used to power my previous Corsiar OK.

Terry

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Hey Joe
I got the wing totally glassed. Now starting on those crazy gear doors! Just finished cutting out the doors and started hinges. I placed the last piece of glass on the tail tonight. Did you glass your flaps and Ailerons or just cover with resin? What did you decide about the engine RCV or electric? I just got a 16 3blade master from tower. I thought I would try it and use a 18 2 blade for break in on my 120sp. i cannot believe I have been working on this silly thing for a year[:@] I have Ziroli Dauntless in the box waiting to start but I am learning alot about building before I start that monster!

Bryan

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Beautiful bird, redback. Good luck with the maiden.

Hey Mistral

I just used a couple of coats of resin on the flaps and ailerons. It was thinned and soaked in well, hardening up the balsa. I then primed, sanded (a couple of times, I think) until I got everything very smooth.

No, I'm not ready to give up on the RCV. It runs too nicely for that. If my sim is anywhere close to accurate, when I use a Zinger 18x12 @ 4300 rpm static, it will need a long run and shallow climb-out, but will unload when airborn and keep accelerating to about 62-65 mph. That should be enough speed to motor around well. I can't exactly duplicate the RCV's torque on the sim, though. I've been told by others on these forums that the big engine will pull a 13 pounder through loops. My simulated plane drops that left wing at the top of the loop. Its rpm really drops off quickly when going vertical. I'm still hoping that I will be pleasantly surprised when I put her up. I think my next step will be to install the engine and check the static thrust by strapping it to and electronic fish scale. Maybe that will give me some sort of idea as to how it may perform. What are your thoughts?

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Redback,

Mine weighs in at 11.5 lbs CJ retracts, and flaps and it is very easy to fly I'm flying it on an OS.91 Surpass II with a 14x6 APC.

This combo has plenty of power and flies beautifully. Fast and Huge loops Does not snap easily and is very forgiving which is typical of most Corsairs. Even Glides OK. (deadstick on Final once years ago...)

Check out the pics of her in my Gallery.

Best flying Model I have ever owned. So much so she is one of my major everday fliers.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

marco ti manca il mototre...e poi quando lo fai volare to benedetto F-4?... dai che se no quelli di B.R ti tirano le orecchie.:D:D

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Thanks for the advice mistral12. I was wondering how I was going to snug up that tank in the space provided. My P-51 PTS doesn't have foam around the tank and it fits good.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Joe
I think that is a good idea. Tie that beast to a tree and see what trust you get. I bit you will be surprised! I was starting my gear doors last PM and trying to figure out the best way to do the hinges to produce the least amount of gap at the hinge side of the door. I got some sonic tronic hinges to try. What hinges did you use? It seems that the edge of the door will hit the sheeting of the wing on mine unless a have a big gap between the edge of the door and the sheeting.

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Mistral,

Those are the hinges I used. How far open are the doors when they hit? I found a happy medium in that they would just clear the retracts and not hit the wing sheeting. As long as they clear the wheels by about 1/2", you should be ok. Here are a couple of pics. One shows where I located my hinges and the other shows the doors installed. I built hinge mounts behind the wheel well walls, with a slot in the walls for the hinge to protrude into the well. Did you do something like this?

RE: top flite corsair build questions
 

Joe
Thanks for the info. I will try cutting a opening in the side. I was trying to mount the hinge on the inside of the well instead of through the side. I think your way will be better since it will allow the hinge higher clearance above the sheeting. Hanks again. I will post how it works.