RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

cockpit (cont)

pic 1-6:
Speaking of cockpits, the Dbalsa kit came in yesterday.
Wow, lots of parts. This will be like building another plane kit. Major assemblies are bagged separately. This will take me awhile but a plane of this size needs a detailed cockpit. I'm glad I'm making a sliding canopy so the cockpit can be more easily seen.

pic 7-10:
Pictures off Dbalsa's web site.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Samparfitt.....

Perhaps this has already been asked, But I only had a few min. to look through the assembly....

On COMP-ARF web page the give 3-dif price options,....

Did you go with the 2nd one on the list for 2600?

Would the one for 3700 come already hinged so one would not have to do all that work with the wing flolding and hinges?????

Thank you....

The plane looks awsome...

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Yep, I went with the 2600 dollar version.
The ARF version has all the hard stuff done.
As I mentioned previously, the extra money can be worth it as one mistake on building this plane can be costly.
With the ARF, about all you have to do is engine, servos, tanks, etc and you're ready to fly.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Sam,

Brian started making this cockpit after I contacted him and asked if he could make one for my Corsair. He hadn't ever done one for it before so I was a guinie pig. The first stuff he sent me was nice but needed improvements. He made them and then sent me the new complete kit. I think we have the same cockpit but mine is just going to be cut less here and there. By the way the floor is all zinc chromate and not black as he has in his pictures. I am also going to put the shoulder and belt harness in mine. It is still in it's shipping box until I need it. I looked at it and it seems to all be there and very nice. I will however take some time to assemble and put in the plane ppiece by piece. By the way do you need canopy rails for yours? I sell them cheaper than he does and they are the same.

Good luck with yours,

Barry

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Barry,
I remember seeing a 1940's video saying that there was no floor in the cockpit so if the pilot dropped anything, it was gone. Maybe Brian just painted the floor black to look like a bottomless hole.
A few years ago, I made up a jig to make my canopy rails and while I was working on the Robart P-47, I made extra ones for the Corsair.

=================

cockpit (cont)

Moving canopy (cont)

pic 1:
I had to cut a piece of brass strip about 5/8" long and drill two holes on each side and solder it to the forward end of the canopy rails: this was necessary since the yellow rod has to move along the inside of the channel and the original screw hole was blocking it's movement.

pic 2/3:
A 1/8" hole was drilled in the front side of the cockpit for the yellow rod.
Also, some of the inside beige support material was ground away for the yellow rod.

pic 4/5:
The yellow rod was pushed/pulled to insure free movement along the full brass channel.
The yellow rod and red tubing is from sullivans #504 gold-n-rod set.
Each yellow rod is 9 1/2" long.

pic 6:
The 4" air cylinder mounted on a piece of 1/16" thick ply using a couple of brass strips and screwed on with #0X3/16" wood screws.
These have festo tube fittings.

pic 7:
The two black tick marks on the brass channel indicates the open/close extreme positions of the ball socket.
The canopy could open farther with longer air cylinders but 4" will be good enough for me (beside, these were the extra air cylinders that I had previously purchased when working on the Robart P-47!). The canopy length from front to back is 6" but about an inch is needed for the inner 5/32" channel that slides in the outer 3/16" channel so the maximum movement that I could get is an extra 1" (probably less since I don't want the end of the yellow tubing to go past the end of the channel and probably snagging on the end of the channel).

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Cockpit (cont)

Sliding canopy (cont):

pic 1:
There are built in mold lines for the rear canopy guide.
From the back of the cockpit, I marked off 3/4" and 5 1/2" along that guide.

pic 2:
I used a razor saw to cut out the guide.

pic 3:
Finished hole cut out.

pic 4:
I cut my pre-slotted 12" X3/16" square channel into two 6" long pieces.
I marked off 1/2" in on one side and 3/4" on the other with the center length being 4 3/4" (the 1/2" side facing forward).
I then cut half way through the width of each side to the 1/2" and 3/4" marks: half way through is about the thickness of the fuse wall.

pic 5:
Dry fit of 3/16" channel in the guide slot.

pic 6:
Using a #54 drill bit to make holes into the fuse and brass channel, I then used #0X3/8" pan head screws to hold the brass channel in the side of the fuse (the brass channel inserted into the side of the fuse from the inside).

pic 7:
A little blurry but the inside view.

pic 8/9:
Sliding canopy dry fit.
Next, I'll use some brass sheeting to make a device to connect the canopy to the brass channels.
I'll also be gluing in some ply inside of the fuse around the 3/16" channel to re-enforce it.

pic 10:
I used a re-enforced cut off disk to cut the screws flush to the inside of the canopy so the screws don't snag on the fuse.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Sam,

Looking great.

Barry

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

thanks, dude.

=================
cockpit (cont)

sliding canopy (cont)

pic 1:
I tapped some threads into some brass tubing that screws onto the threaded end of the air cylinder shaft.
The brass tubing is about an inch long and then I soldered on the brass threaded connector that came in the dubro #181 ball link set.
The threaded end was then screwed into the yellow tubing. I had to remove the screw on the brass channel end so I could put on the blue tubing (from sullivans #506 gold-n-rod set) to keep the yellow rod from bending. The larger blue tubing is needed so my air cylinder can slide along the inside of the blue tubing.
This is the same set up as I did in the Robart ARF P-47 thread.
I also screwed (#0X3/16" screws) some brass straps over the air cylinder to hold it to the 1/16" thick ply.

pic 2:
Some 1/4" thick ply epoxied to the inside walls of the fuse.

pic 3/4:
The air cylinder assembly was then screwed to the 1/4" ply bases making any future maintenance easier to do.
I also put the air cylinders forward so installation was easier with a large fuse access where the wing goes (also, the extra weight is closer to the CG).

pic 5:
A manual pump used to test out one side.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Thanks for the reply...

Does the most exspensive one come painted?

Also, does a radial 250 fit in the RObart p-47?

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

I think you have to paint all of them.
I don't think the 215/250 will fit the P-47: also, probably too much power for that size plane.

====================

cockpit (cont)

sliding canopy (cont)

pic 1:
Got the other side installed.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

No (silver gelcoat) and no (cowl is about 2.5"too small in diameter and plane is too small - IMHO)..I checked w/ Robart before the Corsair was announced....

Barry

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Cockpit (cont)

sliding canopy (cont)
In this post, we make up the rear bracket assembly to hold the back of the sliding canopy to the rear brass channels.

pic 1:
So the ball socket can be easily put into the rear brass channel, a round hole was made at the extreme rear of the channel.
The rear channel is longer than the travel of the canopy so the canopy will not come off in operation.

pic 2:
2/56 holes were drilled/tapped for the Dubro #181 ball socket to be threaded onto the about 1/16" thick brass strips.
Two washers were put on the threaded portion of the ball socket before screwing onto the brass strip.
Permatex blue threadlocker was then put on the treads before tightening the nut.

pic 3:
I then drilled/tapped the brass strip to the back of the sliding canopy.
I used brass 1-72 X3/16" screws.
A smaller pilot hole was initially made with a smaller drill bit and then enlarged to the needed size to tap the hole.
I keep each set of screws/bolts/taps and drill bits in their own separate bag so I have everything I need when drilling holes for screws.

pic 4-6:
The brass strip is sandwiched between the outside FG frame and the inner clear canopy plastic.
I put the screws on with the heads on the inside of the canopy in case they touch the fuse, the round heads are a little more forgiving.

pic 7:
The ball sockets on the back of the canopy are put into the round holes in the back of the rear brass channels and then slid forward.

pic 8:
In the closed position, a small gap is left between the rear of the canopy and fuse so the paint is not scraped off.

pic 9:
In the open position, the canopy moves away from the fuse so a larger gap is present.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Sam,

Why do you have the brass stips showing below the canopy? How are you intending on hiding that? I'm curious as to why you didn't just drill holes in the canopy and then tap them for the ball links. That way nothing would be showing.

Barry

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Looking good Sam!

Ken

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Barry,
There wasn't enough of the canopy overlapping the channel and I didn't want to move the channel farther forward for fear of weakening the fuse structural integrity. I'll just paint it blue along with the rest of the plane.
Even if I could hid the ball link, I'd still need to use some brass to re-enforce the area and reduce any possibility of the canopy from bending.
I'm not worried about if it's not prototype. I see so very few operating canopies that I doubt if anyone will notice that.
I'm like the rest of the pilots out there: I'm just happy to see some scale planes.
My planes are just fun scale: I like to have parts operate and I have no illusions that they will ever win any awards.
For me, function exceeds exact scale: I've got lots of things to do and only so much time (especially being 63!) and when building something, there comes a point when I say 'good enough'.
Getting a canopy to work isn't easy for me and I'm just happy that it works.
Other than the plan that I see in my head, I don't do much 'drawing' (if any): I just 'wing' it and make adjustments as I go along.
Even on my daughter's kitchen cabinets (see pic), I only get the main outside dimensions accurate (to fit the room). After the carcase is built, I just cut the wood so the face frame fits and then the doors so they fit.

Thanks for your inquiry: I always like questions as I always ask a lot of questions.

===============

Thanks, Ken.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Sam,

I didn't mean anything by what I asked. I was just curious. I am 56 so I know what you mean and I never hardly draw anything out first either. I just as you said "wing it". It works for me and thats why my exhaust isn't perfect but as you said there comes a time when I say thats just good enough. Nobody but me will know one sides higher than the other and I like it so thats all that matters. I can't even think of making mine air operated so I am just going to make it good old fashioned manual. Less maint. I think you are doing a great job on your beautiful Corsair. I only wish all these were out when I started building my 1/4 scale Corsair from scratch. It's not going to be perfect because it's built up wood but thats what I get for not going composite. Now I'm known a PUTTY MAN! Yours is perfectly shaped and smooth as a babies butt.:)

Keep on humping along,

Barry

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Still waiting here.....

What a awsome plane....

I will have to tell my dad that both you guys are the age you are (not that you are too old) and still fly and build planes....
My dad is a bit of a downer, as he thinks he can't learn to fly...


Anyway, I will order mine up for next year... too many planes to assemble for this year...

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Yo Barry,
I know you were just asking on a build process and I hope I didn't come across as 'upset' on the comments.
I was just trying to explain my 'philosophy of life' (I probably should just stick with building!).

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

I'm kind of a lurker but I have built and flown Ziroli Corsair. It flew 13 years and accumulated a 2 inch thick log book and check off lists. Currently have a P-51 and a 118" B-25.

Anyway I like the canopy arrangement which is similar to what I built for both the Corsair and the P-51. My question is; With the 2 air cylinders does not the canopy want to cock and jam up?? I did the same thing and had problems so I just converted to a single canopy air cylinder driving the rear of the canopy with a link across the fusalage.

By the way I also suscribe to your "looks scale so it probably is scale". You should have seen my Corsair gun sight. Totally unscale both size and function, but it kinda fit and looked like it was period correct with colors etc. Most people thought it was a work of art. It was so bad that I was embarrased by an old Navy mechanic who asked " What the h... that is on top of the dash". I had to laugh when I told him.

Also nice job on your Corsair.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Couldn't you just use servos to drive the canopy?? Use a digital w/programer and program the servo to go slow..
I was just thinking about this... Being that it is attatched by nyrod..
I am merly aking this as a general build question... Not directed at anyone...[8D]

Also what is the inside material in this picture?? Is it a composite cloth that is used on all composite planes were light weight and low
strength is needed such as a fuse sides??

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Composite-Arf uses 2mm of foam covered with 1/2oz fiberglass cloth on both sides to form their entire airframe with the exception of high stress areas. Makes repairs extremely difficult. Moral to the story is "don't wreck it".

Pal

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Barry,
You got your wish: I screwed up and had to move the rear ball sockets forward as they were over the round holes at the back of the rear channels in the 'open' position. I had the option of making new longer rear channels or moving the rear ball socket forward.

Bentwing:
I went with two cylinders as I thought I would have to make a more complex mechanism to connect both sides of the canopy to one cylinder. No problems with any racking on two cylinders: I have this same set up on my Robart ARF P-47 (see separate assembly thread) and I just tried out the two cylinders on the F4U and she works great.

Kochj:
I need at least 4" of throw and it would require a more complex mechanism to use servos.
I'm sure there are many ways to tackle this problem but this system of air cylinders and sullivan gold-n-rod seems to work well for me.
The beige material inside the fuse is about 1/16" thick and feels like a styrofoam material.

========================
Cockpit (cont)

Sliding canopy (cont)

pic 1:
As I mentioned above, I had to move the rear ball socket forward so I could get 4" of canopy movement.
I could have made the rear channels longer but I opted to move the ball socket assembly forward.
I lucked out and only had to remove the lower screw and rotate the socket assembly forward 1": I did have to grind out a half circle at the bottom edge of the canopy so the bolt head on ball socket would be flush to the inside of the canopy.
This location of the ball socket still gave that same small space between the top of the fuse and the rear of the canopy when the canopy is in the closed positon.

pic 2:
The inside view of the front ball link assembly. I used about 1/16" thick brass for this assembly to insure that the 90 degree bend has no flexing.
The ball socket assembly was also drilled/tapped for those 1-72 machine screws.
The ball socket assembly is on the inside of the canopy.
The brass strip along the bottom edge is sandwiched between the outer FG frame and the inner clear canopy.
Before installation, I drilled/tapped holes every 1" along the brass strip. Later, I'll put more screws into it to hold the FG frame and canopy to the brass strip.

pic 3:
I used four screws to hold the front ball assembly to the canopy.

pic 4:
The front ball assembly attached to the 5/32" channel that slides in the 3/16" channel.

pic 5:
A view of the rear ball assembly in the rear channel.
In the open position, the ball socket is only about an 1/8" in front of the round hole in the channel that's used to put the canopy onto the channels.

pic 6:
I had to add some 1/16" ply between the stationary canopy and fuse to move the canopy out a little bit so the wooden lip on the sliding part of the canopy would not snag on the front stationary part of the canopy.

pic 7:
I also sanded a 45 degree angle on the lip of the ply to prevent any snagging on the front part of the canopy.

pic 8/9:
closed/open positions.
I used a manual air pump to test her out.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Looks great Sam. I like the way you have your front ball link set up.

Barry

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Barry,
Some fine tuning is needed when the ball joint slides in the 3/16" brass channel when the 5/32" square channel isn't used as a guide.
Mainly, the groove in the 3/16" square channel needs to be wide enough to allow the ball socket to be at a slight angle to the channel.
Other than that, it works well for me.

================
cockpit (cont)

pic 1/2:
Here in southwest Ohio, we're suppose to get 6-10" of snow (first significant snow of the year).
I shoveled 4" this morning but I managed a few things on the plane.
I used some rustoleum satin leafy green (240257) on some of the main parts of the Dbalsa cockpit kit.
The leafy green has a pleasant appearance to me so I use that in my cockpits.
Too cold to go out to the shop so I just painted them in the basement (painting a few parts doesn't create any significant paint fumes/paint dust).

pic 3:
I also put together the 32" scale functioning corsair prop.

RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
 

Could you go more in detail??

By the way, I am very happy to see this build come along. I would love to drive out and see it this summer...

Also, I have seen some small repairs done on composite planes. Mainly Miroballons/epoxy mixed like peanut butter, backed hole and filed it in....
Looked great, but I think LArge Repairs would be Very Scary!!