well after gluing in the the flaps i put the hinges on the inside i can only get 2 inches of flaps that is abot 50 cm the book calls for 40 i hope this is enough

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2125960

Don't know if this will help but here is a shot of my full flap on landing. Slows down very well for a training like landing.

hello tevans55 very nice shot of a great model.
here is one of mine coming in to land. Oldtimer
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2125981

Beautiful Oldtimer! Not to many planes look better than a Corsair on final.

i used a pushrod for the elevotor works great but used pull pull cable for rudder not that great has some play otherwise works good just worried if i will get fluter. oltimer i am using the esm numatics and they seem to work fine what did u mean about filining them down and how much thanks

G'day, I used the Pull, Pull set up for the Rudder and tail wheel steering, hasnt been any problem, but I did extend the width of the arm on the Rudder end, I thought it was too narrow, (less chance of flutter) it is a fairly big rudder and I need a fair bit on take off.
I used a servo for each elevator, mounted under the tail plane, it meant more lead up front, but I didnt like the ESM set up.
I have found the ESM air retracts to be quite good, their problems, they dont lock up, so even with 100 psi they tend to ease out a bit if you pull a turn, I am at present fitting the doors, operated by a small servo for each, very fiddly,
the brace arms that hold the retract unit down, if you look at where they pivot it is almost straight, all I did was to file a small amount off one piece so as to let the arms go just over centre, only a very small amount, just so as to make them lock a little bit better.
most of the above info I found on this thread, quite a bit of reading, but worth it, copy and paste all the good bits, follow those that give good info.
the ESM retracts, keep a close watch on the small Allen head bolts that limit the links on the strut extension, I also changed out most of the bolts that hold them together, bought longer bolts so as to get unthreaded shaft between the links, to stop the threads causing wear. the top of the strut, (up inside the wheel well) where it attaches to the pivot turning bit, keep it greased, and check it, as that is where a lot of the play comes from.
also read the threads about the centre section mods, I dont know if they are required or not, I did mine, a real pain, but it might stop Murphy.
hope this helps.
Oldtimer.

I did the maiden on mine a week ago and it went perfectly!
Mine has a DA85 up front with a 26X12 carbon prop pulling her around smartly.
Robart Electric Mains, Sierra AIR tail gear, IBEC, LiFe batts, All Hitec servos and Spektrum Receiver.
Absolutely NO flying issues at all.
Balanced as recommended by many on this thread.
I am surprised how light on her feet she is (30-lbs out the door) and control authority is amazing in all axis. Slowed her down to check slow speed and she wouldn't really stall, just kept floating down in a crawl!
I only used one notch of flaps and did a wheel landing as we had a 10-knot wind that day. I need to dial back the elevator end point and add MORE expo on all control surfaces.
Other than that, she is AWESOME!

Great job by my great friend FlyRight and the good folks at VQWARBIRDS.COM

oltimer thanks for the response i got the gear doors with my kit put them on and are operated with air cylinders with a 3/4 inch stroke i used a carbon fiber rod and threaded a piece of 440 rod carbon fiber rod started to split a bit after threading the rod in about 1/2 incc used glue and is rock solid i think i might do the same for rudder i also ordered the h9 tailwheel and am going to fit that in i also built the hanger 9 corsair and have to say i wasnt to impresed with it flying style i have a da 50 and i think it needs a bit more i think the plane looks better than it flies i heard the esm is alot mor stable will see lol

G'day, not sure what you mean about the push rod set up for your elevators, I had carbon fibre push rods in my smaller Corsair, I had a lot of problem with them flexing, just remember, this is a fairly big model, mine is just over 15kg, with a 70cc EME twin, it is good.
Oldtimer

oldtimer i to am using the esm gear air operated and have no problems with them locking in the down position u said earlier u filed down only one side why not both sides . just curious and was also going to ask how u upgraded your axeles ill agree they are to small just cant figure out how to improve it to larger axeles thanks in advance

i replaced old MT-70twin with EME-70

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2133650

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1449127562

G'day, first off, I dont know if you need to do this, I read about it further back in this thread, will add a photo of my set up, all I did was to file a small flat on the pivot point of the top arm, where the bottom arm has the lug on it, I filed the mating area on the top arm, a VERY SMALL amount, just enough to let the arm go a small amount over centre.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2133841
as to the wheel axle, all I did was to drill the hole right through the strut, run a tap through, ( I think it is 5mm ) but same size as original axle thread, then I bought a longer bolt, drilled out the wheel hub to suit, made up a small spacer to give wheel clearance, I made sure there is clean shank on the bolt inside the wheel hub, then cut off the excess length, thread locker of some kind would most likely stop the new axle from turning, I have drilled a small hole from the bottom of the strut up into the axle hole, so as to put a grub screw in to stop the new axle from turning,
hope this helps, Oldtimer.

i replaced original very slow gear motor with LADO Retract gearbox

Re:ESM 50cc Corsair Nudge, this is my first posting and I know your pics are from years ago but what brand, size, degree range and seconds were the servos you used for the gear doors? Or just the number and brand of servo. Also, excellent workmanship-hope to get there one day.

Downwind Leg

I know, you asked Nudge, but I just got couple of gear door servo's in the mail. Replacing the Hitec 85's with Hitec 5087 MN.

Why? They are strong, and can be programmed with overload protection. So they don't burn if the doors are jammed. Using the Hitec HFP-25 programmer. Also they can take 7.4 Volts, which is the max voltage from fully charged A123 batteries.

Thanks much Kwik, I bought this corsair several years ago and got it up through servo installation for all control surfaces. My time has been very limited for working on it so I have satisfied myself building and flying several foam warbirds like the blitzworks P-40 and the fms p-51 the last couple of years. That led me to try powering this corsair with an electric setup. I must say, finding out about this thread has really gotten the juices flowing again. Just being able to to see other peoples solutions to the problems involved with a plane this complex and knowing I'm not the only one trying to figure it out is very encouraging. Thanks Again,

Good luck, Downwind!

Here is mine, Christmas Maintenance;

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2138620

Has anybody else out there powered their corsair with electric? I have a rimfire 65cc motor ordered-160kv @44.4 volts=7104 rpm? Also a castle esc 160hfv and biela semi-scale 25x10 prop. Nothing installed yet-comments? DOWNWIND LEG 12/31/15

I and some other guys have done the 75" version but have not seen much on the larger size in epower.
You sticking with the two blade on epower ? I have the three blade biela props and they are simply fantastic

No , I'm going to use the biela three blade semi scale 25x10. Hope it works O.K. Might be trial and error on size unless I get some more info. Thanks

Additionally to putting in Hitec 5087 MN as door-servos, I'm having some fun in the canopy area.

I put into place that green lip in front of the canopy; When the canopy is in forward position, that lip slides under the windshield, and keeps the canopy in position sideways.

Without it, there tends to be a small opening there.

I am using Top Flite's canopy. ESM's own canopy got a crack by just looking at it.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2138959

Dear Kwik, Thanks for the input on the canopy. That protruding lip is a great idea for maintaining alignment. Is the lip material plastic from the canopy flash or something else like thin aluminum? Also,what type of fasteners were you using? I've heard that some people ,probably on this thread, have used two canopies and cutting out the clear unpainted part so the remainder can act as a canopy frame. Any thoughts? Downwind Leg

Yes, using parts from another canopy is a great idea.

I just laminated several layers of very very thin G-10 (fiberglass sheets) ontop of the canopy, getting the correct shape.

I fastened it using lots of M2 bolts. If I destroy the canopy, I might be able to move the part over to a new canopy.

What's your source for the G-10?

I always buy it from ACP;

http://www.acpsales.com/Solid-Fiberglass-Sheets.html

Also using kevlar from ACP for pull-pull;

http://www.acpsales.com/.038-Kev-Cor...s..html?page=1