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Im using a lc3 hot glow plug from o.s and im running a vx .18 in 50 -60 degree weathe and it keeps wantin to climb up to tempatures of 215-240 is that normal or am I tuning it wrong

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the vx.18 recommends a cold or medium if i am not mistaken.

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Small blocks are usually running hot. I use hots in mine. I keep my motors right around 240 degrees. And usually not above 250

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at 240-250 are you getting full potential

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Ya definitely. I havent used it on my small blocks yet, ive only used it on my big blocks. And it ran awesome.

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well last time I ran my vx.18 at 230-250 it ceased up on me what are you doing different than I am

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What do you mean it ceased up? Like sieze, or ceased to run?

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sorrie sieze stop running piston froze

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And the piston wont move at all now?

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You could have been running the engine too lean. Although you want to maximize performance, make sure that you have good blue smoke coming from the exhaust at all times...this will ensure that you do not ruin the engine.

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 I read in the current "RC Car" mag, that you shouldn't tune to temp.. Says to tune to performance and the temp will take care of it's self??  As was said before, as long as there's a nice trail of blue smoke when ya throttle it up, you should be good to go!  But getting back to your motor siezing up.. I dont think 250 is near hot enough to cause it to seize.. Dont hold me to this, but Im pretty sure it'd take well above 300* to get these cast parts to begin to deform?? Is it possible that ya just had a bad part in the motor that let go and locked it up?

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wel when i broke into the engine the piston rod was snap in two and the sleeve wouldn't come out enless I forced it up with a flat head screwdriver

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I think the sleeve is suppose to be wedged like that. I know on full size passenger engines the sleeve is pressed in the block.

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I sell more hot plugs than anything as long it has a nice trail of smoke and it is not fallin short of power it'll be good all my vx guys run the hot plug.

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Yeah that's what I run...never had an issue.

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The sleeve should come right out, like a good way to tell if you have good pinch is to take the head off and rotate the crank, and if the piston pushes the sleeve up your good. Wow i cant believe you snapped your rod, did you do the break in correctly?

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yah i did break-in right i still can't believe it happened either

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Dave, just curious.. When yours siezed up, did ya replace the whole engine, or rebuild it with just a new connecting rod, piston & sleeve?? (Basically Im wondering if that's all ya need to do, to a seized engine, or if the block and crank and everything should be replaced if they blow up..) Thanks

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If they blow up, just get a new motor from redcat with the engine replacement program, only 45 bucks for a sh.18

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Yea, that's definitely what I'd do with the redcat motor.. Just wondering in general though.. If they seize up, does that mean a whole new engine, oris a sleeve/piston and rod usually all yaneed?</p>

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well i did actually replace the piston rod got it all back together no friction or anything re set the needles 2 factory and it wouldn't start so im guessing when the rod broke it cracked the block and i din't see it so yes I replaced the motor

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Ah, bummer.. That's a nice replacement programn Redcat has for their motors though! Too bad ya couldnt get yours to fire though. When I had mine apart, I thought I'd messed it up somehow too. I primed it, and pulled the starter cord a million times it seemed like, w/o the slightest hint of fire.. Then, just as I was about to give up, I poured some nitro straight into the carb.. The very next pull it started..

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I neve did try pouring nitro into the carb ill give that a shot with that engine cause i din't have the oringal invoice for it

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Ya what happened was you didnt get enough fuel in for it to ignite, but putting fuel in gave it the right ratio. try all you can so you dont waste a motor if its good. Make sure your glow plug is good and your ignitor is charged.