4mm Vs 2 mm
#2
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RE: 4mm Vs 2 mm
Yep, done 100's of times before. Wing loading will be a little higher, so it'll come in a little hotter. More crash resistant though. Just watch wing loading.
#6
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RE: 4mm Vs 2 mm
I've built a sickle with both 2 and 4mm coro for the wing. Both used a 40LA for power. Both had canadian pipe for the fuse.
The one with all 4mm was a bit heavy and the heavier wing loading caused it to start spinning uncontrollably when stalled. The only way to get out of the spin was by applying full power.
My 4mm wing ripped itself apart because of the 4mm's resilience...its tendency to want to "unbend" itself.
I scrapped that one and got ahold of 2mm coro. Its a whole different airplane with 2mm. Much lighter, wont enter the spin of death anymore, glide is great and manageable. The 40LA with 10x6 MAS simitar prop pulls it out of my hand vertically.
You CAN try it with the 4mm, just be sure to "think light". Oh and dont cut the spar slot in the fuse until close to last. It makes balancing so much easier. Watch the creasing over the spar too...
I absolutely LOVE this plane. Its a beast a full throttle, but is easily tamed at 1/2 throttle. Loops are tighter than spandex underwear. Rolls are axial, smooth and fast. The unlimited vertical at full throttle means this thing hauls. In a dive, it has a natural tendency to self correct to level flight(or atleast mine does). It IS fast, but you can easily fly it as a sport type plane. I built washout into my wing to help the power off glide a bit and it stalls smoothly and predictably. Landings are no harder than a Dogfighter type plane. Only thing you have to watch for is that this plane gets mighty small mighty quick. The lack of a tail makes orientation a bit hard at first so being a step ahead of this plane at all times is a must. Dont fly it thinking you'll have a relaxing flight, but dont pucker up either because there really is no need to, unless you are a bad pilot.
The one with all 4mm was a bit heavy and the heavier wing loading caused it to start spinning uncontrollably when stalled. The only way to get out of the spin was by applying full power.
My 4mm wing ripped itself apart because of the 4mm's resilience...its tendency to want to "unbend" itself.
I scrapped that one and got ahold of 2mm coro. Its a whole different airplane with 2mm. Much lighter, wont enter the spin of death anymore, glide is great and manageable. The 40LA with 10x6 MAS simitar prop pulls it out of my hand vertically.
You CAN try it with the 4mm, just be sure to "think light". Oh and dont cut the spar slot in the fuse until close to last. It makes balancing so much easier. Watch the creasing over the spar too...
I absolutely LOVE this plane. Its a beast a full throttle, but is easily tamed at 1/2 throttle. Loops are tighter than spandex underwear. Rolls are axial, smooth and fast. The unlimited vertical at full throttle means this thing hauls. In a dive, it has a natural tendency to self correct to level flight(or atleast mine does). It IS fast, but you can easily fly it as a sport type plane. I built washout into my wing to help the power off glide a bit and it stalls smoothly and predictably. Landings are no harder than a Dogfighter type plane. Only thing you have to watch for is that this plane gets mighty small mighty quick. The lack of a tail makes orientation a bit hard at first so being a step ahead of this plane at all times is a must. Dont fly it thinking you'll have a relaxing flight, but dont pucker up either because there really is no need to, unless you are a bad pilot.
#7
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RE: 4mm Vs 2 mm
Sure, I made my ultra stick only with 4mm coroplast, the wing are a little heavy but I using a 42cc engine instead 31cc, and it fly so smooth
Some videos, http://www.jusspress.com/pejuve
I'm very new flying planes. enjoy
I love the SPAD...
Some videos, http://www.jusspress.com/pejuve
I'm very new flying planes. enjoy
I love the SPAD...