xray328

My Feedback: (1)

I apologize in advance becuase this may be similar to another post I have in the beginners forum.

My post there is in regards to the ailerons on my Deb not moving up and down at equal heights. I am getting more up than down.

I've isolated the problem. The aileron is flexing. It has full movement on the inside where the control horn is but the movement fades to almost zero at the end of the wing. The hinge is totally open and flexes fine manually without the servo connected.

I was thinking that maybe I glue a wooden dowel in the flutes to help with this?

Any other suggestions?

My maiden is supposed to be in less than 8 hours. Any help is greatly appreciated.

spadeng

another technique that works well is to slot the hinge, cut out slits approximately 2 inches about 2 inches apart along the hinge this reduces the rigidity of the hinge, I have a friend that did it and it works well, i didn't and it works alright anyway

xray328

My Feedback: (1)

Hey, thats a great idea. Will that have a dramatic effect on the integrity of the hinge?

Do you think the dowel idea will help?

xray328

My Feedback: (1)

And I'm just making slits right? Not taking out the entire section of flute like when you cut the hinges?

Muldoer

More up than down movement is a good thing. Its called aileron differential. It reduces a phenomenon known as adverse yaw. So dont sweat it.

xray328

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah but the aileron is actually twisting.

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

The twist will have no negative impact on a Debonair. Its a trainer, and is intended to be a very calm flyer. You'll find it has a very low roll rate, but sufficient aileron authority to control and recover. Lots of these have been built, and their flyability is well proven. Stick to the plans, and you'll be very happy.

Brad

SST

My Feedback: (2)

The way to stiffen coro isn't to use dowels, anyway. Bamboo skewers from the grocery store are cheaper and stiffer. Shoot a small slug of polyurethane glue down the flute and roll a wet skewer point-first into the flute.

spadeng

the sllits have no effect on the hinge integrity, and it depends on the wing design on how stable it is ive seen a deb with a strait wing be pretty agile, with a dihedral it is stable and like ive said, mine has no slits and flies good, the more deflection would make it more responsive, the biggest problem with spads is flutter at high speeds, i solve that by fitting the control rods as tight as possible in the control horns

Mitty

I though i had a few pics...
When i built my debonair i cut two pieces of yardstick from leftovers and gled then right on the other side of control horns.Then screwed horns through the coro and yardsticks and applied a drop of glue. Even though they didn't flex for the same ammount i never had a problem. I tell you more. After while(and about 3 dozen hard HARD crashes) my alieron hinge broke.What i did -i used a small zip-tie and tied the alieron to the wing.I drilled 1/8 hole first.
As before a drop of superglue to keep everythign in place and for a piece of mind

That plane however ended up demolished on the paved runway when ol' 40 la didn't have enough juice to pull it out of inverted loop LOL.Imagine the impact that shatters the fuselage,knocks muffler off and send engine about 25 yards away. I still have the wing though.

JD380

My Feedback: (133)

For light weight, carbon fiber rods slid into the flutes. Not my idea, read it in another posting. Used one to stiffen up my tailfeathers.

Oodles

Take a piece of 2-56 control rod and put a 90 bend on each end and sharpen a point on each end--turn aliron down and insert bend thru flutes on each end of rod--2-56 will lay in the flut you cut out to flex--put one end close to control horn the other end at lease mid way of wing--had to do this on my DPS Twin to get good roll rate

xray328

My Feedback: (1)

The thing is though, its like the aileron is twisted. If its parallel to the fuselage on the inside of the wing, then its sticking up too far at the edge of the wing. If its parallel at the edge of the wing then its drooping at the inside edge.

Oodles

skewers

rrh

Just fly it and don't worry about it

rrh

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

What I've done is to double the aileron thickness with a second piece of coro glued to the aileron. Makes it much stiffer ... also helps to use a servo per aileron and center the servo on the aileron width so the horn is centered. Eliminates the lack of movement when it's really cold, also.

Captain351

Lets not forget the best way to solve this problem! Use 2 Servos!

If you put servos on the underside of the wing in the center of each aileron span you will not have this problem even if you double the width of the ailerons.

It will also make it much easier to put the rubber-bands on if the push rods aren't in the way.

Just because the plans say to do it one way doesn't mean you have to do it that way. SPADS are all about experimentation so if the way somebody else did it doesn't work for you try a different way!

MrGreenSpeed

Being that it's a trainer, As long as the ailerons move freely; if the aileron is a little warped, it should fly just fine.
So I'm with rh
Just fly it and don't worry about it.
Jeff

xray328

My Feedback: (1)

I've never done the dual servo setup. How does that work (as in the radio setup)?

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

Nothing to set up ... use a 'Y' adapter right into the aileron RX channel. Nothing else.

smokingwreckage

My Deb did the same thing. In my case the Coroplast the ailerons were made of was warped. The plane fly okay, but didn't have the same response to stick movement in both directions. I took a 2 pieces of piano wire about 3/4 the length of the ailerons, bent the ends the width of the aileron, and stuck the ends in the ailrons from the hinge side. A couple drops of thick CA on each end held everything in place. Problem solved.

Next problem was stripped servo gears from stiff hinges. I cut 2-inch slots on 4-inch centers down the middle of the hinge. Do not remove any material because airflow through the hinge will destroy the control surface's effect. Just cut the slots and don't worry about it.

I use both techniques on my 106mph pylon racers to control flutter and to allow the use of lighter, less torquey servos. I've never had a problem with control surfaces.