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S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design Discuss the growing area of S.P.A.D.S. (Simple Plastic Airplane Designs). Coroplast type aircraft, pizza box planes, etc..

" flashing "

Old 01-25-2006, 04:51 PM
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Joshua11
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Default " flashing "

Hi, I have read in spad building instructions that you are supposed to "flash" or torch the coro before you use it to get all the oils from the factory off of it. I was wondering all I have access to is one of those torches that come in a blue bottle from walmart but they only throw like a really stron blue flame. I was wondering if i could " hot rod " a regular cheap lighter and make the flame a foot high and torch it with that.....would that work? thanks
Old 01-25-2006, 04:56 PM
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Muldoer
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Default RE: " flashing "

Thats exactly what I use (the blue propane can with attachment). I know it puts out a strong blue flame but what you have to do is give it some really fast passes. Practice on a few scrap pieces first.

Old 01-25-2006, 04:58 PM
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Default RE: " flashing "

You can but try.

Seriously, the flame may "spread out" too much and not get as hot. On the other hand, you don't want the plastic melting either so it may just work.

Like I said, try it. Worst that will happen is the glue won't hold. And you'll find that out b4 u fly
Old 01-25-2006, 05:44 PM
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Default RE: " flashing "

You don't have to touch it with the blue part of the flame, in fact you shouldn't do that. If you put the blue on the coro, you will be putting raw butane on the coro. Just make quick passes over the coro in the direction of the glue line. Leave the blue part of the flame and inch or two above the coro, you should be able to see the wave of oils burn off as you go along. That the coro gets really hot and will darken a bit should be good enough for you.

Practice on scrap. I also have a 4 foot, 2.5 inch wide rule that I lay down by my glue lines. The oils burn off, and the rule takes most the excess heat.
Old 01-26-2006, 11:22 AM
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Spadinator
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Default RE: " flashing "

Flashing works well, but I do all my building inside so all I do is sand the area with 100 gt sand paper then clean with rubbing alcohol then glue. never had a joint fail yet!!
Old 01-26-2006, 01:41 PM
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Default RE: " flashing "

Is that pic (blue can) what you're talking about? If it is, that's all I've ever used as well.

Gotta move fast cuz it's real hot stuff. Practise on scrap first. If the coro wrinkles, it's ok if all it did was wrinkle a little bit. If it burned a hole, well....[:@]
Old 01-26-2006, 02:42 PM
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Default RE: " flashing "

Am I the only one that gets good results using Lacquer thinner to remove the platic oils? I use Handibond plastic friendly CA and prepare the surface with a wipe down of thinner. I get bonds that do not fail even inthe ultimate crash tests where the fuse is destroyed. The wings have come out flyable even if a little "crimped" at times.
Old 01-26-2006, 05:14 PM
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Muldoer
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Default RE: " flashing "

Handibond Plastic CA is specially formulated to work with "unflashed" coro. So you may not even be getting the oils out at all, its just that the glue you use sees no difference between flashed and unflashed coro.

Regular CA works better if the coro has been flashed. Other ways of flashing are out there, one method being rubbing in mineral spirits and then lightly sanding the surface to be glued.
Old 01-26-2006, 05:16 PM
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Scott Crownover
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Default RE: " flashing "

Ive had good results with using a barbecue lighter on smaller joints. Puts out more flame thatn a reular cigarette lighter. I only use the larger propane torch for large areas.

scott
Old 02-13-2006, 05:31 PM
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RCDOC
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Default RE: " flashing "

Am I the only one that doesn't Flash /sand or do any prep whats so ever to the coro? Unless we get different coro up here in the sticks and snow than you do in the States, there is no reason to flash or prepare the CORO. Do your own testing but I have built 2 know and never had any problems what so ever with the joints. I us Thin or med. Flash glue and on the few test pieces i did it ripped the coro before the joint came apart.

TRUST ME DO A FEW TEST PIECES AND SAVE YOURSELF ALOT OF GRIEF AND WASTED TIME.

This is the rocket dawg that I fly and if it stays together with no flashing I dare to say that so will anything else

SORRY FOR THE ANOYANCE IN THE BEGINNING OF THE VIDEO


Go here and click on "Rocket Dawg Maiden Voyage"

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.putfile.com/fordevr

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

L8TR
Old 02-13-2006, 06:51 PM
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Default RE: " flashing "

RCDOC, I agree with you about there being other ways to bond corro than flashing. I tried flashing early-on but found wiping down the corro joint with alcohol and then applying regular medium ca gives me a bond that's almost impossible to break. I'm no expert, but I've built 75+wings this way over the last 4 years without a problem
Old 02-14-2006, 12:17 PM
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RCDOC
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Default RE: " flashing "

I'm not sure but is everyone only using Ca to put there planes together or are you also using some kind of metal fastener ie. Rivot nuts and bolts etc.? on my rocket Dawg I glued everything and I also rivot it with the exception of the 2 wing pieces that are glued only. Cause I have never used anything to make a better bond other than blowing off the dust and this thing will never come apart in a million years.

Continue flashing and whatever else you are doing but if you ask me (and I know nobody did) there is no need for it.

LATER HAPPY FLYIN
Old 02-14-2006, 01:54 PM
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rrh
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Default RE: " flashing "

Well, if you have everything held together with rivets, how do you know that your glue joints haven't popped? I'll continue to flash when I use CA.
Old 02-14-2006, 02:16 PM
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CRFlyer
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Default RE: " flashing "

I have only built a few spad's, but to me, the simplest, and probably quickest way to glue coro is to flash it. I have a propane torch and a lighter on my work bench, so It's always within reach.
Old 02-14-2006, 11:56 PM
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Default RE: " flashing "

I guess I'll chime in with my $0.02 worth. Since I discovered Deadeye's woodpecker/polyglue technique and Acam's Welder suggestion, that is how I glue all my spads together. I use CA occasionally, but I don't flash. I usually wipe it down with acetone or denature alcohol, wipe dry, then glue. I haven't had a glued joint fail yet. Knock on plastic!!


Later,
Omaha
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Old 02-15-2006, 07:40 PM
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RCDOC
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Default RE: " flashing "

Ya I do Definatly Rivot stuff and then when I fire off the D-12 then I know Its all goin up together.

Sounds Like (do I dare say it) There may be more than one way that works!

Anyways As long as your having fun and stuff stays stuck.

May the glue gods be with you

PARTY ON WAYNE AND PARTY ON GARTH

(sorry a little waynes world flash back)
Old 02-17-2006, 12:14 PM
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joe_weisman
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Default RE: " flashing "

Just my own little experience - I've had great results with some coro, and horrible results with other. Turns out that coro is usually prepared for print as part of the manufacturing process. How do I know this? I asked a manufacturer. It's some sort of a thermal treatment, so I guess it might be considered pre-flashing.

I once got some coro that was NOT processed for print, and I had a few wings pop open. I tried a few times, flashing more agressively each time, but even when I wrinkled the coro it still wouldn't really stick.

Instead of learning other gluing options I finally tossed the "bad" coro. The other coro sticks great, even with a pretty light flash.

Joe
Old 02-19-2006, 12:11 AM
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smokingwreckage
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Default RE: " flashing "

What was different about the "good" Coroplast and the "bad" Coroplast? Different brand, part number, what?

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