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Plans for twins?

Old 04-17-2003, 07:26 AM
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I would love to find plans for a twin .40 SPAD. Maybe like a P-38. Anyone know where I can find such a thing?

Thanks

John
Old 04-17-2003, 07:59 AM
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Default Plans for twins?

I'm not 100% sure if there are plans but there are several twins around, if you e-mail the designers/builders i'm sure they would help.

Go to the SPAD showcase and click on the pics to take you to the threads







and a heap more
Old 04-17-2003, 02:38 PM
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Or you could go the original SPAD route coroplast and PVC downspout as I did with my TWIRP (see the earlier posting). Following in the spad fashion; simple, inexpesive, tough and easy to repair. It may look ugly but there are lots of advatages.
Old 04-17-2003, 04:59 PM
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My next SPAD on the drawing board is a BN-2 Islander SPAD. This is a commercial island-hopper high-wing twin. Plans are all drawn up and ready to go....though the design is specifically for twin electric - no need to worry about 1 engine-out issues!

I'll post here when completed.

Steve
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Old 04-18-2003, 07:15 PM
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I'm secretely building a spad p-38. It should come out to be about 48" WS and 30" lenght and will/should/might fly on a pair of .15LA's. But combat starts next saturday and my two planes are still on the work bench... so the SP-38 gets put to the back of the priority list... I'll let you know when I get some more work done on it.
Old 05-07-2003, 06:01 AM
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Default Plans for twins?







Major Dimensions
Wingspan: 72" Flat bottom...double taper on outer panles (RNAF style)
Wing Chord in Center: 11 1/2" wide X 18" long
Outer Wing Panel: 6 1/2" at tip (27" long outer panels) 2" ailerons
Spar: Full height dual yardsticks in center panel taper to 3/4" (one
yardstick at tip)
Horizontal Stab: 6" wide (includes 2" elevator) X 22" overall)
Vert Stab: 7" wide X 8 3/4" high (5 1/2" above PVC fuse) inner yellow
nyrods looped in flutes for skids
Faults Nose Gear...(Doubled the cost of this project!) Could use 3/16" coil wire.
Main gear nylon bolted to all three pieces of PVC.
2 Carbon fibre arrow shafts tying PVC together.
2 - OS 32 FX's (Originally had two Tower 40's)
OS to OS of PVC fuses - 16" (13 1/2" CL to CL of fuses/motors)
.....and a few "lightning" holes for kicks.
Old 05-07-2003, 06:25 AM
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ALRIGHT!!!

Thats what I'm looking for. It's off to Lowes first thing tomorrow for the PVC. The only thing I would change is maybe 5/32 wire anchored in cutting board for the gear. I found 2"x 2" downspouts made in Canada at my Lowes. What size did you use? Also, I will be using a couple old OS 40 FPs. Think they will be too much? I don't want a particularly hot plane, just an easy flyer. Maybe I should lengthen the wing a tad?

Thanks, Craig.

John
Old 05-07-2003, 06:45 AM
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crashnfix,
I used the Canadian PVC...I believe it is about 2-3/8" square.
The two .40 FP's will fly it fine. I suspect they will put out about the same power as my .32's. I originally had a pair of Tower .40's on this and it flew fine. I changed them as they were new and as I am not one to break in engines on the ground so I would end up with an engine out almost every flight. This was no fun so I changed them out to my old reliable OS's. I would not lengthen the wing at all. This is a very stable flyer and a great twin trainer. Next one I will bolt the wing on instead of rubber bands.
As far as the gear is concerned I would suggest if you use wire for the gear to go with 3/16". I have not weighed it but guess it is 7-8 lbs. I need to weigh it...will post once known.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Craig
Old 05-07-2003, 11:37 AM
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Mine has an 80 inch wingspan and is a great flier with 2 OS .40 FX's. My two fuses (not center section) are 40" long. Airplane flies awesome and is the best twin I have ever owned.

Andy
Old 05-08-2003, 12:46 AM
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Craig

I have a question. What did you use for the end caps on the fuselages and the center pod? All I can come up with is a piece of cutting board.

Thanks

John
Old 05-08-2003, 03:59 AM
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Originally posted by crashnfix
What did you use for the end caps on the fuselages and the center pod? All I can come up with is a piece of cutting board.
Correct...cutting board material is what I used. Originally I had a piece of 3/4" oak on the center fuse with a sculptured piece of stryofoam glued to it to give it a rounded look but the foam got hit a few times and looked terrible so I removed it and made it out of cutting board as well. The present profile nose is also cutting board. I am not satisfied with the profile nose look but can't come up with something more simple that looks good. A little hard to see, but here is a picture with its original sculptured (snowcone) styrofoam nose and a 5/32" wire nose gear which has since been replaced with a Faults dual leg nose gear. The 5/32" wire is a little to weak...probably 3/16" would work but had the dual gear sitting around and it looks more realistic.

By the way, this is where I got my start...(thanks William Crane) and modified it a little as you see. He used a pair of .46's, constant chord wing and larger wingspan.
http://www.dreammachines.tv/beyondspad/Plans/dodo.htm
It weighs in at 8 lbs 9oz. The OS .32's haul it around just fine...it is not a speed demon but moves along quite well. It is very stable and predictable. Will do most maneuvers with ease...inside loops, rolls, crisp 4 or 8 point rolls, inverted, stall turn, even a banana shaped knife edge!
Craig
Old 06-26-2003, 06:43 AM
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Thanks, guys for the input. I ended up using CraigA's design with a few of my own changes. For pics, check this out.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...65&forumid=220

Johnn

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