My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
04-23-2003, 11:00 AM
#27
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Great, now I have new problems to fix.
What do I have to do to control the flutter?
I just installed my motor. It looks great but now I have a new problem. My prop is about 1/8 of an inch from the ground. I guess I am going to have to jack up the plane a little.
What do I have to do to control the flutter?
I just installed my motor. It looks great but now I have a new problem. My prop is about 1/8 of an inch from the ground. I guess I am going to have to jack up the plane a little.
04-23-2003, 11:15 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
ChrisSpad,
I have had tanks crack before so I definitly know it can be ruined in a crash. I was actually thinking he was talking about it exploding.
My bad.
I have had tanks crack before so I definitly know it can be ruined in a crash. I was actually thinking he was talking about it exploding.
My bad.
04-23-2003, 12:08 PM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Guinea13-
I was just giving you a little good-natured ribbing.
I didn't mean that the fuel tank would actually explode, but as Chris said, in a nose-in the fuse looks as if it would buckle at the tank area. This would cause the tank to become squashed and possibly rupture. Try flying it anyways- if it does crash you are not out much money. Even if the fuse does not survive, the wing and tail can most likely be used on your next Spad. I recycle wings and tails all the time. 
The last thing I'm trying to do is discourage you from building and flying your plane. We Spadders have been through the trials and tribulations that you are currently experiencing and are only trying to help. If we can have a little fun along the way, why not?
For your prop clearance problem I would suggest 3 solutions-
1. Use a shorter prop if possible. I believe a 10 inch prop would be appropriate for your engine.
2. If you can, extend the nose gear wire. This will move the nose of the plane up some and give you more clearance.
3. Lose the nosegear altogether and make the plane a tail dragger. Mount the main gear inline with the LE of the wing and add a tailwheel or tailskid that is tied in to the rudder for steering. This will cause the nose of the plane to point upward and will enable you to use the prop you want and still have ground clearance.
I was just giving you a little good-natured ribbing.
I didn't mean that the fuel tank would actually explode, but as Chris said, in a nose-in the fuse looks as if it would buckle at the tank area. This would cause the tank to become squashed and possibly rupture. Try flying it anyways- if it does crash you are not out much money. Even if the fuse does not survive, the wing and tail can most likely be used on your next Spad. I recycle wings and tails all the time. The last thing I'm trying to do is discourage you from building and flying your plane. We Spadders have been through the trials and tribulations that you are currently experiencing and are only trying to help. If we can have a little fun along the way, why not?
For your prop clearance problem I would suggest 3 solutions-
1. Use a shorter prop if possible. I believe a 10 inch prop would be appropriate for your engine.
2. If you can, extend the nose gear wire. This will move the nose of the plane up some and give you more clearance.
3. Lose the nosegear altogether and make the plane a tail dragger. Mount the main gear inline with the LE of the wing and add a tailwheel or tailskid that is tied in to the rudder for steering. This will cause the nose of the plane to point upward and will enable you to use the prop you want and still have ground clearance.
04-23-2003, 12:18 PM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Thanks for the ribbing. I was trying to understand if there would be a really big problem.
I am using a 10 x 6 prop right now. I put alot of work putting in the front landing gear and would really like to keep it. But it seems to be very unstable. the plane wiggles when I touch it. It seem that the nose gear rod is very weak. it has alot of motion it. I think I may have gotten one that is to small thickness wise for this plane.
A tail dragger would be cool though. I will have to think this one over.
I am using a 10 x 6 prop right now. I put alot of work putting in the front landing gear and would really like to keep it. But it seems to be very unstable. the plane wiggles when I touch it. It seem that the nose gear rod is very weak. it has alot of motion it. I think I may have gotten one that is to small thickness wise for this plane.
A tail dragger would be cool though. I will have to think this one over.
04-23-2003, 12:44 PM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
It seems that when you move the from of the fuse side to side that the nose gear is going to buckel, but it doesn't. I am just worried that that one day I will try to land and the landing gear will buckel and I will be screwed.
04-23-2003, 01:07 PM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Question: How far is your prop from the ground if your prop is in vertical (12 o'clock) position.
What is a recommended space between the prop and the ground?
Also,
Is it ok for the front of the plane to be tilted upward where the engine is (more ground clearence at the nose verse the rear. about 1/2 inch).
What is a recommended space between the prop and the ground?
Also,
Is it ok for the front of the plane to be tilted upward where the engine is (more ground clearence at the nose verse the rear. about 1/2 inch).
04-24-2003, 10:47 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Originally posted by ChrisSpad
i try to keep a couple of inches of prop-ground clearance with the plane in flying attitude.
i try to keep a couple of inches of prop-ground clearance with the plane in flying attitude.
I just changed the wheels from 2 inch to 3 inch and changed the front nose gear. I have about 1 to 1 1/2 of clearence now.
It is ok for the front of the plane (engine side) to be about 1/4 higher than than the rear (has a slight tip).
04-28-2003, 10:48 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
IT FLYS
I went and had a couple of experts test my plane out. It flew beautifully. They said it flys better than most trainers! Cool, I flew it a couple of times and loved it.
Yesterday we tried landing it after about a 12 minute run and broke the rear landing gear off. NO major damage. The plane just slide on the rear elevator and stopped. Minor repair job.
This plane rocks. Will send an updated finished photo.
I went and had a couple of experts test my plane out. It flew beautifully. They said it flys better than most trainers! Cool, I flew it a couple of times and loved it.
Yesterday we tried landing it after about a 12 minute run and broke the rear landing gear off. NO major damage. The plane just slide on the rear elevator and stopped. Minor repair job.
This plane rocks. Will send an updated finished photo.
04-28-2003, 01:09 PM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Thanks alot,
Nothing like the feeling of creating your first designed SPAD.
Specially when it flys for the first time and does crash.
Nothing like the feeling of creating your first designed SPAD.
Specially when it flys for the first time and does crash.
04-28-2003, 01:16 PM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Anyone now of any good sites that have low wing flyers (SPAD) stunt plane. I want to design another that looks better than this one but also one that can do alot more.
04-30-2003, 10:00 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Originally posted by guinea13
The sullivan tank that is 1 7/8 wide has a 2 1/4 height. This would still make it so I would have to cut the top. They just don't make a long 8oz. tank that is about 1 3/4 round. The next closest one is a cylindar tank about 1 15/16 x 1 15/16. I never saw this one until today. Would have used it. Oh, well can't win them all.
The sullivan tank that is 1 7/8 wide has a 2 1/4 height. This would still make it so I would have to cut the top. They just don't make a long 8oz. tank that is about 1 3/4 round. The next closest one is a cylindar tank about 1 15/16 x 1 15/16. I never saw this one until today. Would have used it. Oh, well can't win them all.
04-30-2003, 10:56 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Well after running great for 3 days. It finally crashed. For some reason the elevator was not working correctly. The fuse broke about 3 inches from the engine, from landing gear bent, rear landing gear bent, small tear in left alerion (from the rubber bands), broken prop. Not really much damage. Recovered all parts. Motor was buried in clay (about 1 ft. in). Cleaned engine last night and found no damage. Should have it fixed in a couple of days.
Here are some pics I took of the finished product about 5 hours before I crashed it.
Here are some pics I took of the finished product about 5 hours before I crashed it.
04-30-2003, 11:12 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
I hate to say this too, but if you make the coro one piece of the fuse, instead of making it several, you'll have better structural integrity. What I mean is the fact that you have a "U" fuse, with coro added to the top (and side where the tank was and about 3" from the engine makes sense). Instead, measure and cut the top WITH the sides next time. instead of this |_| make it like this [] with the overlap on bottom to help support your L/G...
Hope that makes sense.
I also think that if your fuse is twisting and/or your wing is not level, one side of the vator may not respond at some given point.
Was it the left elevator not responding>?
Hope that makes sense.
I also think that if your fuse is twisting and/or your wing is not level, one side of the vator may not respond at some given point.
Was it the left elevator not responding>?
04-30-2003, 11:23 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
It had two tanks. This helped stop bubbling coming into the engine because the smaller tank would also stay full until the big tank was empty. Secondly it add 2 oz of fuel to a small 8 oz. tank. (now that I think more about it I should have checked the C.G. again I am sure it was way to nose heavy) When I fix the plane I am going to remove the 2 oz tank. I am also going to swiss cheese the fuse and put plane tape on it. I need to get the weight down. It was a heavy 7 lb plane (it did fight pretty good though, before yesterday).
I didn't add coro to the fuse, it is actually plastic. The top plate snapped into place. I had cross bracing in it so that it would be a tight fit. Having the fuse the way it was is what saved the plane. If I would have use a [] fuse the impact would have cracked the hole fuse right down to the tail. THanks for the advice though will keep it in mind for my rebuild.
The fuse didn't twist much at all. I made it pretty sturdy (that is why it was so heavy). My elevator is one piece. I checked the function of the elevator after the crash and it seemed to work fine.
Well I did do a high speed nose-in and the tanks survived! No damage to engine, tanks, servos, receiver, battery. Just the fuse and an alerion and the landing gear bent.
I didn't add coro to the fuse, it is actually plastic. The top plate snapped into place. I had cross bracing in it so that it would be a tight fit. Having the fuse the way it was is what saved the plane. If I would have use a [] fuse the impact would have cracked the hole fuse right down to the tail. THanks for the advice though will keep it in mind for my rebuild.
The fuse didn't twist much at all. I made it pretty sturdy (that is why it was so heavy). My elevator is one piece. I checked the function of the elevator after the crash and it seemed to work fine.
It looks like it will fly to me. As long the CG is correct, you shouldn't have too many problems. I would be very wary of doing a high speed nose-in though- you'll probably blow up your fuel tank. Good luck!!
04-30-2003, 11:27 AM
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
http://www.rccombat.com/forum_2000/t...s=aileron,tear
Hope this helps, it's only one of a few solutions for a ripped ron.
Hope this helps, it's only one of a few solutions for a ripped ron.