SPAD .91 FS float plane
05-10-2003, 11:48 AM
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Winter Garden,
FL
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SPAD .91 FS float plane
I am looking for suggestions on what type of SAPD plane would make a good choice for a .91 size four stroke float plane.
I have been looking at the Debonair, but I don't know if it will handle the .19 FS? Any suggestions ?
Thanks,
Curt
I have been looking at the Debonair, but I don't know if it will handle the .19 FS? Any suggestions ?
Thanks,
Curt
05-11-2003, 07:49 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dunwoody,
GA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SPAD .91 FS float plane
Here is a modified Deb on floats with an OS .70 FS. Wing chord was increased an inch and the span increased to 66". Took the dihedral out. This flies great off the water. With a .91 you could even make the wing larger. Also a picture of my stock sized but modified Deb with a OS .46 FX...also flies great.
Craig
Craig
05-12-2003, 12:29 AM
#3
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Winter Garden,
FL
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Water SPAD
Craig,
Thanks for replying, that is just what I was looking for. What type of floats are those? (not the Gee Bees) And what type of spar configuratiuon did you use on the yellow spad?
One more, What mill. coroplast did you use on the yellow wing?
Thanks again,
Curt
Thanks for replying, that is just what I was looking for. What type of floats are those? (not the Gee Bees) And what type of spar configuratiuon did you use on the yellow spad?
One more, What mill. coroplast did you use on the yellow wing?
Thanks again,
Curt
05-12-2003, 12:50 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dunwoody,
GA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SPAD .91 FS float plane
Curt,
The floats on the yellow one are foam cores sheeted with ply (top and bottom)and balsa (sides). I have built a couple different length floats from an article by Chuck Cunningham appearing in RCM a while ago. Here is a link to a web page that has the article.
http://flyinglindy.homestead.com/skisandfloats.html
Here is another link to a web page that will calculate the various float dimensions for you.
http://www.armoredplanet.com/hcfc/floats.html
I have used white styrofoam (lightest), as well as the pink and blue insulation foam board. These are easily cut on a band saw.
The wing is RNAF style...4 mil bottom and ailerons with 2 mil top.
The spar is the same as the original Deb (dual yardsticks 1" apart) except flat. With the .91 you could easily go with a 72" wingspan. Use 2 yardsticks butted together in the center with an overlapping yardstick splice say 18"...(ie cut yardstick in half so you have two splice plates) glued to the outside. Another feature I liked how it looks is I used 1/4" nylon bolts to bolt the wing on instead of rubber bands. I added a horizontal 1/4" X 1" ply plate glued between the yardstick spars on the bottom as a hold down for the forward bolts, and another piece of 1/4" ply glued to the inside/top of the PVC fuse. Initially I was concerned about the 2 forward bolts being so far back from the leading edge, but I have built 3 like this and works great. Also 2 nylon bolts at the trailing edge. I use a scrap piece of PVC as the bolt plate on top of the wing. Hope this makes sense?
Craig
The floats on the yellow one are foam cores sheeted with ply (top and bottom)and balsa (sides). I have built a couple different length floats from an article by Chuck Cunningham appearing in RCM a while ago. Here is a link to a web page that has the article.
http://flyinglindy.homestead.com/skisandfloats.html
Here is another link to a web page that will calculate the various float dimensions for you.
http://www.armoredplanet.com/hcfc/floats.html
I have used white styrofoam (lightest), as well as the pink and blue insulation foam board. These are easily cut on a band saw.
The wing is RNAF style...4 mil bottom and ailerons with 2 mil top.
The spar is the same as the original Deb (dual yardsticks 1" apart) except flat. With the .91 you could easily go with a 72" wingspan. Use 2 yardsticks butted together in the center with an overlapping yardstick splice say 18"...(ie cut yardstick in half so you have two splice plates) glued to the outside. Another feature I liked how it looks is I used 1/4" nylon bolts to bolt the wing on instead of rubber bands. I added a horizontal 1/4" X 1" ply plate glued between the yardstick spars on the bottom as a hold down for the forward bolts, and another piece of 1/4" ply glued to the inside/top of the PVC fuse. Initially I was concerned about the 2 forward bolts being so far back from the leading edge, but I have built 3 like this and works great. Also 2 nylon bolts at the trailing edge. I use a scrap piece of PVC as the bolt plate on top of the wing. Hope this makes sense?
Craig
05-12-2003, 04:40 AM
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
SPAD .91 FS float plane
Originally posted by CraigA
Curt,
With the .91 you could easily go with a 72" wingspan. Use 2 yardsticks butted together in the center with an overlapping yardstick splice say 18"...(ie cut yardstick in half so you have two splice plates) glued to the outside. Craig
Curt,
With the .91 you could easily go with a 72" wingspan. Use 2 yardsticks butted together in the center with an overlapping yardstick splice say 18"...(ie cut yardstick in half so you have two splice plates) glued to the outside. Craig
Craig,
I have a 72" WS Deb with 2 1/2 dihedral and over size control surfaces - with a .91 Mag 4 stroke. (Your plane gave me the inspiration to build it, :^) I am finishing it up tomorrow (as a taildragger ). Our club has an up coming float fly and I would love to put this one on floats. Could you give a rule of thumb or formula as to how long, they should be and what percent of the length the step should be at. I assume that not only the WS but also the fuse length and weight has a factor in designing a set of floats for a given plane.
Thanks ,
Dwight
05-12-2003, 09:29 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dunwoody,
GA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SPAD .91 FS float plane
Dwight,
Here are two links on everything you need to know...one is an article out of RCM...if you click on each page you can blow it up to read it or print it out.
http://flyinglindy.homestead.com/skisandfloats.html
Here is another link to a web page that will calculate the various float dimensions for you.
http://www.armoredplanet.com/hcfc/floats.html
Both will give you about the same results. The step as you will note should be located 1/2"-1" behind the planes CG. Don't forget to check for the proper CG after mounting the floats.
You'll really be pleased with yours....it is a great combination.
Any questions please post.
Craig
Here are two links on everything you need to know...one is an article out of RCM...if you click on each page you can blow it up to read it or print it out.
http://flyinglindy.homestead.com/skisandfloats.html
Here is another link to a web page that will calculate the various float dimensions for you.
http://www.armoredplanet.com/hcfc/floats.html
Both will give you about the same results. The step as you will note should be located 1/2"-1" behind the planes CG. Don't forget to check for the proper CG after mounting the floats.
You'll really be pleased with yours....it is a great combination.
Any questions please post.
Craig
05-12-2003, 03:27 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dunwoody,
GA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SPAD .91 FS float plane
Dwight,
Forgot to mention...you can make a great water rudder from PVC downspout. Cut a "L" out of the corner of the PVC...shape the rudder on one leg of the L and the tiller arm on the other.
On the float side...cut two small "L" brackets to sandwhich the rudder hinge material...maybe 5/8" X 5/8" X height of float at rear. Screw them on back to back (I imbed a small piece of 1/8" X 1-1/2" X height of float at rear) ply on the rear end of each float to screw on the rudder hinge brackets...you never when you may put them on another plane and change the rudder location to the other float!
Oh yea....you know what makes great hinge material for the rudder? A piece of Coro skin! Cut the flutes off so you have a small sheet of Coro skin.
And...the brackets to attach the landing gear to the float...I use HDPE cutting board material. Helps if you have a band saw and table saw!
Make sense...if not let me know and I can take/post some pictures.
Looking forward to your flight report and pictures.
Craig
Forgot to mention...you can make a great water rudder from PVC downspout. Cut a "L" out of the corner of the PVC...shape the rudder on one leg of the L and the tiller arm on the other.
On the float side...cut two small "L" brackets to sandwhich the rudder hinge material...maybe 5/8" X 5/8" X height of float at rear. Screw them on back to back (I imbed a small piece of 1/8" X 1-1/2" X height of float at rear) ply on the rear end of each float to screw on the rudder hinge brackets...you never when you may put them on another plane and change the rudder location to the other float!
Oh yea....you know what makes great hinge material for the rudder? A piece of Coro skin! Cut the flutes off so you have a small sheet of Coro skin.
And...the brackets to attach the landing gear to the float...I use HDPE cutting board material. Helps if you have a band saw and table saw!
Make sense...if not let me know and I can take/post some pictures.
Looking forward to your flight report and pictures.
Craig
05-13-2003, 01:21 AM
#9
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Winter Garden,
FL
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great Ideas!
Craig,
Excellent ideas! If it's not too much could you post some pix of your water rudder and the hold down plates inside your fuse.
Thanks,
Curt
[email protected]
Excellent ideas! If it's not too much could you post some pix of your water rudder and the hold down plates inside your fuse.
Thanks,
Curt
[email protected]
05-13-2003, 10:44 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dunwoody,
GA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SPAD .91 FS float plane
Curt,
A couple pictures of my PVC water rudder. The Coro hinge (it's white Coro but you can see an ouline in the picture) is bolted between the two "L" brackets on the float and between the water rudder and a PVC clamp plate. I used stainless steel hardware for rust purposes. You don't need to bolt it...your typical sheet metal screws will work fine.
Also a shot of the top of the CoroCub fuse and wing. You will note the 4 holes in the top of the fuse corresponsponding to the 4 wing bolt locations. I leave enough PVC between the two openings to glue the cleat to the inside. The 1/4" ply cleats are the width of the fuse X about 2" long. The forward wing bolts go through the top wing skin and are screwed down to the horizontal ply bolting plate sandwiched between the spars and glued to the inside of the 4 mil bottom wing Coro. I pre-drill the wing cleat and put holes in the top of the wing and use this as a template to drill the fuse holes after I locate the wing for balance. The holes are drilled and tapped for 1/4" nylon bolts. It does take a little planning but worth the effort.
You might also note there is an extra servo and wire exiting the left fuse side...this is for a bomb or parachute drop. I use a short 1/4" nylon bolt/nut in the fuse side...drill a 1/16" hole thru the center of it for the deployment pin to exit the fuse. Probably overkill for a PVC fuse but have been doing it like this on my balsa planes.
Hope this explains it well enough....if not just ask.
Craig
A couple pictures of my PVC water rudder. The Coro hinge (it's white Coro but you can see an ouline in the picture) is bolted between the two "L" brackets on the float and between the water rudder and a PVC clamp plate. I used stainless steel hardware for rust purposes. You don't need to bolt it...your typical sheet metal screws will work fine.
Also a shot of the top of the CoroCub fuse and wing. You will note the 4 holes in the top of the fuse corresponsponding to the 4 wing bolt locations. I leave enough PVC between the two openings to glue the cleat to the inside. The 1/4" ply cleats are the width of the fuse X about 2" long. The forward wing bolts go through the top wing skin and are screwed down to the horizontal ply bolting plate sandwiched between the spars and glued to the inside of the 4 mil bottom wing Coro. I pre-drill the wing cleat and put holes in the top of the wing and use this as a template to drill the fuse holes after I locate the wing for balance. The holes are drilled and tapped for 1/4" nylon bolts. It does take a little planning but worth the effort.
You might also note there is an extra servo and wire exiting the left fuse side...this is for a bomb or parachute drop. I use a short 1/4" nylon bolt/nut in the fuse side...drill a 1/16" hole thru the center of it for the deployment pin to exit the fuse. Probably overkill for a PVC fuse but have been doing it like this on my balsa planes.
Hope this explains it well enough....if not just ask.
Craig
04-10-2013, 02:19 PM
#12
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: LaGrange,
GA
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SPAD .91 FS float plane
Very top right hand corner up under the little icons, you'll see a printer and it says "printable version". Click that and it'll put this thread out to a printable form. Then just print however you print using your web browser.
04-10-2013, 04:36 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Harlem,
GA, AMERICAN SAMOA (USA)
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SPAD .91 FS float plane
ORIGINAL: PatrickCurry
Very top right hand corner up under the little icons, you'll see a printer and it says "printable version". Click that and it'll put this thread out to a printable form. Then just print however you print using your web browser.
Very top right hand corner up under the little icons, you'll see a printer and it says "printable version". Click that and it'll put this thread out to a printable form. Then just print however you print using your web browser.
