Eighth Scale Aviation Tsunami 517" build
01-23-2016, 06:34 PM
#1
Eighth Scale Aviation Tsunami 517" build
I am gonna attempt to created a build thread for memory purposes going forward as well as for anyone who may also want to assemble this this Plane.
I am not a "Kit Builder" by any means so this will also serve to high light issues I had due to my inexperience and possibly help others who want to "Give it a try"
I will say opening up the contents of the kits was a pleasant task. Each bag of parts were clearly visible to its respective part
This is a Scale design, and if using it for racing the plans offer some variations for that, like aileron size and location.
Though the plans have some basic instructional information, you will need to have moderate building experience for this kit.
I will try and post pics at the bottom of each post, rather than specific location with captions underneath, as its easier on me to do it that way
So I started the assembly of the elevator halves first. These are built "top" and "bottom" separately and the glued together as one piece. I added a round tube of carbon fiber rod for strength for racing purposes just in front of the designated wood spar included on the plans
Remember this is a scale kit, so I will be adding some modifications for the racing this plane will do in the Gold class.
The Rudder is built similar to the elevator utilizing "clam shell" halves built separately and the glued together.
I wasnt happy with how my elevator control surface turned out, and may just use Aileron stock cut to size.
I used 1/8" Robart hinges on the tail surfaces.
I am not a "Kit Builder" by any means so this will also serve to high light issues I had due to my inexperience and possibly help others who want to "Give it a try"
I will say opening up the contents of the kits was a pleasant task. Each bag of parts were clearly visible to its respective part
This is a Scale design, and if using it for racing the plans offer some variations for that, like aileron size and location.
Though the plans have some basic instructional information, you will need to have moderate building experience for this kit.
I will try and post pics at the bottom of each post, rather than specific location with captions underneath, as its easier on me to do it that way
So I started the assembly of the elevator halves first. These are built "top" and "bottom" separately and the glued together as one piece. I added a round tube of carbon fiber rod for strength for racing purposes just in front of the designated wood spar included on the plans
Remember this is a scale kit, so I will be adding some modifications for the racing this plane will do in the Gold class.
The Rudder is built similar to the elevator utilizing "clam shell" halves built separately and the glued together.
I wasnt happy with how my elevator control surface turned out, and may just use Aileron stock cut to size.
I used 1/8" Robart hinges on the tail surfaces.
Last edited by MFLOOD3800; 01-23-2016 at 06:36 PM.
01-23-2016, 06:52 PM
#2
After the rear flying surfaces were completed I started on the wing halves.
I pre cut all the wing shears, and sheeting. I beveled the rear trailing edges of all the sheeting to make it have a sharper edge, I also added 1/2" carbon fiber strips to the bottom trailer edge of both wing halves for rigidity. I used 2 pcs of 1/8"x1/4" spruce CAed together for both of my front spars and a 1/8"x1/4" for the rear spar.
The wings call for a mounting technique that utilizes two read wing bolts and 2 front 3/8" wooden dowels. Since I will be powering this plane with a YS115 I will modify mine to a four bolt system which means I will be adding some stock wood filler to the front of the plane between the ribs and sanded to the airfoil of the ribs, like at the rear for the added bolts.
I added a frame system for the aileron mounting assembly. The plans call out for the included ply reinforcement to be CAed to the inside of the wing sheeting. I was concerned with the flexing in this area in the racing at Gold Speeds so I just added the 1/8" spruce frame work between the ribs and off the closest spar. Tim told me this wasnt necessary, but it didnt take but 5 minutes and it gave me more confidence, especially since the wing sheeting is 1/16" and not 1/8" or 3/32".
I missed prematurely added the web shears before adding both the top and bottom leading edge sheeting, so to create the proper wash out, I shimmed the leading edge front and trailing edge rear as I glued on the sheeting creating the "boxed" in effect.
With the wings still in separate halves I opted to do the aileron cut outs, servo cut outs and retract cut out, as its easier to work on a half wing VS a full wing.
The ailerons were marked ( for the race version) and cut out with a dremel cut off wheel. The servo hatches corners were marked with a pin sticking thru form the inside so when I got to this part I could easily go from corner to corner and not miss the actual location.
Then I used the plans specs for my Hobbico retracts. I failed to sand one end of the internal retract mount and my retracts (90*) will have a wider stance... but this will be fixed later on.
I pre cut all the wing shears, and sheeting. I beveled the rear trailing edges of all the sheeting to make it have a sharper edge, I also added 1/2" carbon fiber strips to the bottom trailer edge of both wing halves for rigidity. I used 2 pcs of 1/8"x1/4" spruce CAed together for both of my front spars and a 1/8"x1/4" for the rear spar.
The wings call for a mounting technique that utilizes two read wing bolts and 2 front 3/8" wooden dowels. Since I will be powering this plane with a YS115 I will modify mine to a four bolt system which means I will be adding some stock wood filler to the front of the plane between the ribs and sanded to the airfoil of the ribs, like at the rear for the added bolts.
I added a frame system for the aileron mounting assembly. The plans call out for the included ply reinforcement to be CAed to the inside of the wing sheeting. I was concerned with the flexing in this area in the racing at Gold Speeds so I just added the 1/8" spruce frame work between the ribs and off the closest spar. Tim told me this wasnt necessary, but it didnt take but 5 minutes and it gave me more confidence, especially since the wing sheeting is 1/16" and not 1/8" or 3/32".
I missed prematurely added the web shears before adding both the top and bottom leading edge sheeting, so to create the proper wash out, I shimmed the leading edge front and trailing edge rear as I glued on the sheeting creating the "boxed" in effect.
With the wings still in separate halves I opted to do the aileron cut outs, servo cut outs and retract cut out, as its easier to work on a half wing VS a full wing.
The ailerons were marked ( for the race version) and cut out with a dremel cut off wheel. The servo hatches corners were marked with a pin sticking thru form the inside so when I got to this part I could easily go from corner to corner and not miss the actual location.
Then I used the plans specs for my Hobbico retracts. I failed to sand one end of the internal retract mount and my retracts (90*) will have a wider stance... but this will be fixed later on.
Last edited by MFLOOD3800; 01-23-2016 at 07:20 PM.
01-23-2016, 07:02 PM
#3
Back to the retract situation: As stated earlier I built this to the plans which is a scale design. The problem I have is the strut length on the plans is quite long for 3/32 gear that I have in my Hobbico retracts. Also once I got ready to cut out for the retract servo I realized there is no room for the servo as the wheel well location is very close to the root rib center section. I looked at turning the servo from its normal position to running it parallel to the rib, but that wouldnt work either. So, I order a set of Efilte Electric 85* Retracts, which will help correct my forgetting to sand the retract frame, and eliminate the need for the servo all together. I will try and use the larger 60-120 size as they come with larger diameter struts. If these are still too wobbly due to their length, I will have to shorten them up which means I will also have to redo the wheel well area I have already cut out and boxed in thru the sheeting.
I have already epoxied the wing halves together and then realized the retract problem, so now I will be working with the full wing.
I have already epoxied the wing halves together and then realized the retract problem, so now I will be working with the full wing.
01-23-2016, 07:15 PM
#4
In this close up you can see the how close the retract wheels are to the center of the wing not leaving room for the servo. Tim tells me the kit was designed for electric retracts which is a good move considering the wheel locations.
I also will be using a HD control horn single bolt set up for the ailerons and have the hole properly placed and drill already in the ailerons.
I have wicked this are both inside as well as outside with thin CA to add strength. The Aileron surfaces will be installed with the HD Blue CA type hinges as I wasnt comfortable with the 1/8" Dubro ones I have fitting into such a small surface area. I will skin all control surface hinge lines with monokote to ensure even more structural integrity.
I also will be using a HD control horn single bolt set up for the ailerons and have the hole properly placed and drill already in the ailerons.
I have wicked this are both inside as well as outside with thin CA to add strength. The Aileron surfaces will be installed with the HD Blue CA type hinges as I wasnt comfortable with the 1/8" Dubro ones I have fitting into such a small surface area. I will skin all control surface hinge lines with monokote to ensure even more structural integrity.
01-23-2016, 07:41 PM
#5
I am heading out of town for two weeks so this build will be on hold for a bit. I did manage to get the bottom wing glassed from rib 4 to rib 4, which is from outer edge of the retract mount cut out areas. I used 5 oz cloth and 2 ton slow cure epoxy. I started with the bottom cause my skills doing this are slim. If it doesnt look good with minimal sanding, at least its on the bottom
I have the top piece of glass precut to shape as well and will glass when I get back.
Also here is the landing gear mocked up with a shorter strut. You can see how much shorter it will need to be as well as the modification to the old wheel well and where the new one will have to be.
I have laid up a smaller Eflite 25-46 electric retract housing just to see how well it would fit to my existing cut out for the retract base area. Looks like it will fit pretty good with only minor mods needed for this electric type retract.
I have the top piece of glass precut to shape as well and will glass when I get back.
Also here is the landing gear mocked up with a shorter strut. You can see how much shorter it will need to be as well as the modification to the old wheel well and where the new one will have to be.
I have laid up a smaller Eflite 25-46 electric retract housing just to see how well it would fit to my existing cut out for the retract base area. Looks like it will fit pretty good with only minor mods needed for this electric type retract.
01-23-2016, 08:52 PM
#6
Lookin' good, Marty.
So glad you decided to do a build thread, after all. It has been a while since I have been able to follow someone else's progress, share in what they are doing, and how they do it. It is appreciated!
One possible means of slightly decreasing the length of the struts is to increase the wheel size. Don't enlarge the wheel well concentrically around the axle -- leave the edge at the root of the wheel well where it is (in other words: don't enlarge the wheel well towards the root, or center section, at all), but enlarge the hole working towards the tip end, closer to the retract. If you use the lightweight foam tires, there is only a minuscule weight penalty -- especially after you are able to cut some of that metal strut off. Additionally, the plane will handle potential emergency grass landings and running off the edge of the runway better, with less chance of ripping out your retracts, or flipping over and smashing your vertical fin like I see so many suffer from. Lastly, it will likely be even more scale (I'm not real familiar with the Tsunami, and know it was a custom-built racer, rather than a modified Warbird; but, the wheels appear small to me for what is still very similar to a Warbird). Essentially, whatever extra diameter you add to the tires, corresponds to a savings of 1/2 that in length of the strut. And, the plane will have the same scale "stance" (or angle of attack) on the runway, while looking more aggressive due to the bigger tires. Just a thought, for what it is worth.
OOPS! I immediately responded to the post where you were still contemplating what to do about the struts as I read it (before I read the following post that stated that you already shortened your struts). My apologies.
Ollie
So glad you decided to do a build thread, after all. It has been a while since I have been able to follow someone else's progress, share in what they are doing, and how they do it. It is appreciated!
One possible means of slightly decreasing the length of the struts is to increase the wheel size. Don't enlarge the wheel well concentrically around the axle -- leave the edge at the root of the wheel well where it is (in other words: don't enlarge the wheel well towards the root, or center section, at all), but enlarge the hole working towards the tip end, closer to the retract. If you use the lightweight foam tires, there is only a minuscule weight penalty -- especially after you are able to cut some of that metal strut off. Additionally, the plane will handle potential emergency grass landings and running off the edge of the runway better, with less chance of ripping out your retracts, or flipping over and smashing your vertical fin like I see so many suffer from. Lastly, it will likely be even more scale (I'm not real familiar with the Tsunami, and know it was a custom-built racer, rather than a modified Warbird; but, the wheels appear small to me for what is still very similar to a Warbird). Essentially, whatever extra diameter you add to the tires, corresponds to a savings of 1/2 that in length of the strut. And, the plane will have the same scale "stance" (or angle of attack) on the runway, while looking more aggressive due to the bigger tires. Just a thought, for what it is worth.
OOPS! I immediately responded to the post where you were still contemplating what to do about the struts as I read it (before I read the following post that stated that you already shortened your struts). My apologies.
Ollie
Last edited by Iron Dog; 01-23-2016 at 08:58 PM.
01-24-2016, 06:55 AM
#7
Ollie thx for the input. I have NOT yet shortened the struts as I am trying to see all my options prior to doing anything- I merely mocked them up to the size I feel I may need if the bigger Dia struts I ordered dont fix that issue. I like your idea of just adding bigger wheels to bring that area down closer to the retract itself. Im just trying to avoid cutting the new hole after its been glassed.
But again thx for the input, I may have to go that route.
But again thx for the input, I may have to go that route.
01-24-2016, 02:14 PM
#9
I looked at utilizing Ollies idea of just enlarging the wheel and only opening up the one side of the old wheel well area and that may work. It looks like I can do that and retain my front wing bolt area mass needed. It wont give me exactly what I was after as far as the shortest strut possible, but it will be much better than what I got and with the new electrics with 5mm struts, I will be fine. It may wabble a little but Im ok with that. I will cover that process when I get to it so others may know how easily it can actually be. Its more work but shouldnt be too bad.
01-27-2016, 09:45 AM
#12
You are progressing well. The main thing I would stress to a new builder is to take your time don't rush and don't set a time table for getting finished. Build at an enjoyable pace remember its a hobby not a job. Don't stress over it. When I got back into the hobby in 2004 my youngest son would go flying with me. He watched as I built it and we came out with a very good looking LT-40. He asked me while we were getting ready to go flying "What happens if I crash it?" I responded "We fix it." He replied "But what if I ruin it?" I in turn said "We build another." We went back and forth like this a couple of times until he realized building was part of the fun and crashing was just one of those things that you expect to happen from time to time. I try to keep that mindset myself whenever I go to the field but it is tough. Its the very mindset I think every builder should strive for.
01-27-2016, 04:14 PM
#13
Yes I agree,
I decided this is my "Winter" project
It is fun to build and add certain things I've picked up from the years of racing and flying.
Going slow and thinking several steps ahead is key.
Im excited to get back and get started again, My electric retracts have already showed up here so I will be able to finish the retract situation and get on to glassing the wing and then started on that fuse.
I decided this is my "Winter" project
It is fun to build and add certain things I've picked up from the years of racing and flying.
Going slow and thinking several steps ahead is key.
Im excited to get back and get started again, My electric retracts have already showed up here so I will be able to finish the retract situation and get on to glassing the wing and then started on that fuse.
02-07-2016, 08:00 PM
#16
Marty I was just looking at the drawings and your build. Another thing might be to move the retract mount inward towards the wheel and remount them to make the strut shorter this would be a much easier fix then moving the wheel. this should shorten the strut about 1 1/4 "..
Last edited by tdstaf; 02-07-2016 at 08:03 PM.
02-08-2016, 07:30 PM
#19
I was able to make a decision. I went with bigger diameter tires (from 2" to 2 3/4") I also went with the larger electric retracts from eflite as they had the 3/16" dia struts, I then shortened them to 5 1/4" from housing to axle center line, I also moved the wheel well in another 1 1/2" and moved the L/G mount bracket closer to the tire by almost 3/8". This required a ton of rework and reinforcing. This is all I could do in the area allowed. In the future I would move ribs and add another one so I could use a really short strut to fit between the ribs.
In the pic, I have yet to fill in all the final sheeting and lots of final clean up needed, but at least I have the problem fixed. I am a bit concerned about the rib I had to almost totally cut out so that new 2 3/4" tire would fit in the desired location and the rib where the electrical box housing needed to fit as well. I totally had to cut down to ribs to the sheeting leaving only 1/8". I added tri stock in 4 different places per half. I think I will also get some and fit it under the retract housing electrical box area where most of the rib was removed.
In the pics I have the new shorter electric set up and the older original mechanical set up.
In the pic, I have yet to fill in all the final sheeting and lots of final clean up needed, but at least I have the problem fixed. I am a bit concerned about the rib I had to almost totally cut out so that new 2 3/4" tire would fit in the desired location and the rib where the electrical box housing needed to fit as well. I totally had to cut down to ribs to the sheeting leaving only 1/8". I added tri stock in 4 different places per half. I think I will also get some and fit it under the retract housing electrical box area where most of the rib was removed.
In the pics I have the new shorter electric set up and the older original mechanical set up.
Last edited by MFLOOD3800; 02-08-2016 at 07:38 PM.
02-08-2016, 09:38 PM
#20
What you have Marty should work fine I remove stuff to fit the wheels in all the time.
Here is a picture of the bear cat with 3 ribs removed before the tub walls are installed as with what you have done.
This is set up for a 3 1/4" tire.
Here is a picture of the bear cat with 3 ribs removed before the tub walls are installed as with what you have done.
This is set up for a 3 1/4" tire.
Last edited by tdstaf; 02-08-2016 at 09:50 PM.
02-09-2016, 12:48 PM
#21
Tim,
Thx for the update and info. Youve been a great help.
I looked at it closer and decided the spars would be the strong point any way and the sheeting simply "boxes" in the structure, so I moved on and glassed the top section of the wing today.
My retracts are done and buttoned up. All that is left on the wing is to pre-mount aileron servos, drill holes then remove these items in the hatch area and then cover.
I leave for AZ again shortly and will have to wait on the fuse til I get back.
Ill get some pics of the glassing on the top of the wing. It turned out way better than the bottom- thankfully. I did end up with a lot more glass hair strands than hoped for on leading and trailing edges. Any way to prevent that in the future? This will need extra sanding and Im not wanting to over do it on leading edge airfoil or the thin 1/16" balsa sheeting.
Thx for the update and info. Youve been a great help.
I looked at it closer and decided the spars would be the strong point any way and the sheeting simply "boxes" in the structure, so I moved on and glassed the top section of the wing today.
My retracts are done and buttoned up. All that is left on the wing is to pre-mount aileron servos, drill holes then remove these items in the hatch area and then cover.
I leave for AZ again shortly and will have to wait on the fuse til I get back.
Ill get some pics of the glassing on the top of the wing. It turned out way better than the bottom- thankfully. I did end up with a lot more glass hair strands than hoped for on leading and trailing edges. Any way to prevent that in the future? This will need extra sanding and Im not wanting to over do it on leading edge airfoil or the thin 1/16" balsa sheeting.
