Performance Parts for YS
 

Does anybody sell performance parts for YS engines? I would love to have some exotic metals inside my motor. What has to be done if anything to run 50% nitro? Where can I find 50% nitro?

-John

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

John, Try Dave Shadel @ - [email protected] Greg

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

They are already "performance" motors. ;)

However, I do sell a straight exhaust stack that will give you another 200-300 RPM.

There is nothing else needed to run 50%. It takes some work to get 50% that is YS compatable. You can buy oil and nitro from local kart racing and/or drag racing shops. Mix that at 80/20 and then cut it down with standard 20/20 fuel. That's probably the easiest way to go.

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Hi Chris,

I am going to want to get one of those headers for a YS115 when I can buy one.

James

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Well I guess it was just one specific part I am looking for at the moment, a titanium connecting rod. It would be nice to have a titanium valvtrain also (pushrods, rockers, & valves) although that has less effect because they are reciprocating at 1/2 the speed as the con-rod. Reciprocating weight reduction frees up HP that is currently just jiggling mass back and forth (the less mass the faster/easier it is to jiggle it all).

I have a machinist friend that works at the naval surface warfare center and he admittedly does nothing but his own side projects all day. So I might try and get some of my wasted tax money back by having him copy a factory con-rod with 4-Al 6-V Titanium. Or I could nut up and buy a bridgeport and try it myself.

-John

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

I found this info about titanium.

Titanium is a strong, light metal. It is as strong as steel and twice as strong as aluminum, but is 45% lighter than steel and only 60% heavier than aluminum.

According to this, aluminum is lighter than titanium. I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the stock rod in a YS. After all, you are not likely to turn more than 11,500 RPM anyway.

That titanium rod is going to have to be pretty thin to get it as light as the aluminum rod.

I know there are some guys who have played with the disc valve timing.


Blessings, Terry

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

John,

Chris is right, very little needs to be done to run 50%. I do so all the time, just open all the needles a touch and vrRROOOOM.

Here is my 2cents..... Get one of the headers from Chris, you won't be disappointed (Chris, that will be 25 cents off my next header please). They are very nice and mount using the factory header nut, they have a bigger ID than any other header on the market and are easy to "cut down" in length if you want a shorter pipe, plus they look cool.

Then mix up your own 50%. I use 100% synthetic oil with methanol and nitro. The engines really like cool power oil (the green stuff from morgans). If you must run a fuel with castor then I recommend that you run some 20/20 with 100% synthetic thru the motor to "flush" it out any time you don't plan on running the motor for awhile. Since your on the east coast I believe you can order 100% nitro by the gallon from Klotz, usually the Nitro is the hardest piece to the brew it yourself puzzle. Last year it was nearly impossilbe to find. This year it has been much easier for me to obtain. As a side benefit you're able to mix in small amounts keeping it fresh brewed at all times.

Jimmy Skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

So Jimmy, what percentage oil are you running (the green stuff from Morgans)? 

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Barry,

I always run around the 20% mark. What I mean is that I calculate my mix to be 20% but I may end up at anywhere from 19-21% based upon how much I'm mixing. For example, a gallon is 128 oz of fuel..... 20% is 25.6 oz of oil..... my measuring device is has a 32 oz, 28 oz, 24 oz, etc. break down. Do I make sure I get 25.6% each time..... Heck no. But I'm close. Same with the other pieces in the mix. I will say that I always start with the oil first..... but this is just because I'm using the methanol and nitro to "wash" out my measuring funnel. The beauty of using 20% oil in every mix is that I can then blend what ever fuel I have left over either up or down in nitro percentage and burn it off. I used to have bottles and bottles of half used brews every where. Now I usually only have part of a one gallon jug with fuel in it at any one time. Brew what you need and if you need more, brew more.

As a side note, my measuring funnel is a transmission filler from an auto parts store, it has a screen for filtering, and a valve that you can open and shut and of course a measure. For about $5.00 it makes the job of mixing pretty painless.

Jimmy Skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Cool, I use to mix 60% for my F1's way back.  I used Klotz red can 20%, 20% methanol, and 60% nitro.  Never burned a motor. 

I have been running 30% Cool Power Heli fuel in my 4 strokes and they really like it.  Cool Power doesn't say excatly how much oil they use but, I was figuring 25-30%. 

I was also looking at some of the different Amsoil 2 cycle oils and thought I might give them a try.  I use it in everything else I own that is internal combustion.

Has 50% been kind of the max nitro percentage or can you go higher.  In the 4 strokes the % nitro results is about one half the boost you would see in a 2 stroke.  So to equal 30% 2stroke boost it would take 60% in a 4 stroke.

Thanks for the info.

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Barry,
I believe the cool power heli 30 is 23% high viscosity oil. I use the green which is a low viscosity hence the 20%. Any higher and you run the risk of bogging down the motor. Now as for the secret of how much nitro...... Well I know that many have used higher than 50%. From what I have determined going much over 55% leads to diminishing returns. I have run as high as 65%, and have heard of others going even higher. I believe that over 55% mark is where the road to replacement parts and broken jugs lay. For the last two years of racing I have stepped down to 50% and the motors have responded with almost the same amount of power and run like they are running on 20-30%.... no problems at all. Granted I am pretty gentle on my motors with correct tuning and run up. I've seen many a YS owner not treat their motor correctly and wonder why thay have problems. These motors are not happy with lean runs and let you know in very short order if you have not fed them correctly. Hope this helps.
Good Luck,
Jimmy Skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Yes, it is in line with what i have learned so far.  Hopefully I will get a YS powered WarBird going this next year.  I have to many projects going but, that is just my way.  At least you have pointed me in the right direction to get my fuel components so I can mix my own brew.

Thanks Jimmy.

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

I had just assumed the YS had a steel connecting rod. I had just never imagined that it was aluminum. Every RC plane motor I've disassembled I recall has been steel, its been awhile. Are you sure the YS rod is aluminum? On Friday I ordered a brick of 6Al 4V Ti that might end up just being a very exotic high performance paper weight. How about valves and push rods? I could get some round stock and make those.

-John

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Barry,
Glad to help. If you PM me your email I'll send you a neat fuel calculator.
Skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Yes I'm sure it is aluminum. Push rods and rockers appear to be steel and I think the valves probably are too. To be honest, I don't think those are large enough to benefit much from weight reduction. They don't move very far either. The things I know that folks have done physically to the YS engines is change the rotor timing and on the .91 they bored out the carb, but I am told that he 1.10 already has a larger carb so that is not necessary. There is a fellow in the Phoenix area who had a 1.20 block and bored to accept a 1.40 sleeve and piston. I believe he had to make a custom rod to make it work. Those engine are behemoths but also seem to have a short life span. I think YS got it right the first time.

I spoke with Richard Verano about his race plane. It is very fast. He attributes most of that speed to the airframe and custom wing, but he did tell me that he lowered the compression ratio so he could run 65%. I believe he is using a 1.20 SC.

Anyway, most all of the guys I know who are fast with the YS engines uses nitro in the 55% -65% range. I really think that, and knowing how to adjust the needles is the biggest secret to getting high power out of the YS engines.

Blessings, Terry

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

I had the same work done to one of my YS engines to allow the higher nitro. I will try the 45% at first to see what response the needle allows. The higher the nitro you use, the more sensative that needle gets, and you better get it right on the ground the first time.

Unless you are tring to have fast time (with a break out violation), there isnt a reason to go King Kong on the engine or the % of nitro.
I have 2 -110's and a 120, and in the right frame (WM Dago w/o the scoop) and a STOCK wing, I am confident it will break out of Gold at will , either the 110 or the 120.
I talked to RV and his wing is for a WM Mustang, and it is a pound lighter than my Dago, but when its all said and done, both planes or anything comparable should easily break out if a good course is flown.

To V8 Eaters original request, There ceramic bearings, special heads, and a slew of home made "performance" parts for the YS engines, but why?
If you are racing then there is a lot of good info here to review, if for the pure pleasure of speed, I say go for it and let me know what you discover.
When you do a little here and a little there it all adds up to a winning combination. No one mod seems to yield "the holy grail" of results.

I have only done 2 to mine, and I am counting on great results simply because I will fine tune my flying skills to this discipline and reap a harvest of many things all coming together as a whole. Like Terry said in reference to RV's plane, get a clean airframe. No exposed switches, bulky scoops etc.

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Guys,

From what I'm reading most seem to think that a fast racer is all about motor. Well my 2 cents would contribute the following. Motor is important, including fueling the beast. Airframe is important, low drag, correct throws, light, stong, well built, correct airfoil, etc. But no one has really touched much on pilot skill. All this talk about Richards airplane and motor and no one has thought that maybe a world class racer might have different way of moving the sticks to make themself fast.

My feeling is that a good motor, a good plane, and good pilot make a great combination, take away any of the three and results will vary.

Oh yes and I would be lax if I didn't include the all important 4th important factor..................... LUCK.

Skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Well Skids, I guess you didnt read my last post then eh??

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

I did say most.... More or less just added to your foundation.
skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

I'm not sure any of us who have offered advice here believe that the motor is the most important factor. However, the topic of this thread was about increasing the performance of the YS engines, specifically by using after market parts. So, that is what I tried to focus on. I know Richard is a world class pilot but that doesn't mean his engine and airframe are not very fast. I've seen video of him flying that plane and he was not flying a tight course at all, but he was so fast he didn't need to.

By the same token, I don't believe that one can easily break out in gold with a Dago Red that has the scoop removed and stock 1.10 installed. It might get there, but it won't be easy. I've seen many really good pilots try, but few ever get there.

Just my $.02

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Geez I should of put a bunch of smiley faces next to my post to keep the tone right.:):):):) Sorry if I offended anyone. I have always tried to help out with getting these motors to run right with what limited knowledge I have regarding them.

I would add that I have run 120SC's, 110FZ's, and 110S engines all with 60+ percent and not had to lower the compression to get them to run. The statement regarding lowering the compression to run higher nitro with regards to the 120's is only part of the puzzle and unless you know the second part you won't reach the top potential of the motor. Now some out there know exactly what I'm saying, and then there are some speed secrets that I'm not able to share. :D

Jimmy Skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

So are you running a smoke screen instead of really trying to help the original poster?:D

The 1.20 SC is difficult to come by. Guys hang of to them.

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

No smoke here, just saying that there is something more than just lowering the compression. My original posts provided some major advice regarding running YS motors and how to feed them. But now that you mention it, I always try to make sure that my motor has a nice little smoke trail...... If it isn't smoking then it might go lean. So thank you for pointing out the part about smoke.;)

Skids

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

I've run the YS .91/1.10/1.20 on up to 67% nitro without having to lower the compression, and I know of several who have run the .91 on as high as 75% without having to lower it, either. The guy I know who runs 80% DOES have a few different versions including a low-compression piston, but I don't know that it's necessary. I think he's found that the flat-top piston works best for him. As everyone says, knowing when to say "when" on the needle is the tricky part. It's an art that I haven't completely mastered yet.

The smoke trail is key regardless of how much juice your'e running. If the engine cleans up and runs well during the first few laps (especially during the pace laps) and before you start pounding on the poles, it's not gonna make 10 laps [:o]

RE: Performance Parts for YS
 

Wow, This thread has been amazing.  Same old stitch.  Guy's think the fastest most powerful engine is what wins.  Same story in boat power and sail, motorcycle, cars all kinds.  I would have to say that Drag racing is the one motorsport that the most powerful motor is a bigger factor than the others but, I Drag raced motorcycle for years and suspension, motor, shift technique, launch technique were all major factors.

So as Skids said, ( I am paraphrasing) good equipment set up well with a good motor tuned well is a very competitive set up.  This set up with a mediocre pilot with be mediocre.  With a really good pilot they will be in the hunt.

Just like in business a poor to mediocre plan executed well will always beat a great plan executed poorly.  In my past career I proved this multiple times as I am sure many of you have.  I was the guy that always implemented the bosses plans and some of them were not that good.  But you make it happen.

I need to go make sure my equipment is ready and go to the field and fly my three imaginary heats today.  Uh lets see, go fast turn left, BE SMOOTH AND CONSISTANT!!