Blue Thunder build
#1
Thread Starter
Blue Thunder build
Well I finally have everything off my bench and I’m ready to start the Blue Thunder I bought from RC Aerodyne. This is one of two helis I’ve wanted to build since I got into Flying helis , the other being a AH-64 so I’m stoked to get to work on this. With the fenestron tail and the large number of accessories that go on this heli it will be my most ambitious scale project to date. There’s also plenty of areas where custom details can be added to get it even closer to the actual heli used in the film and make it my Blue Thunder.
Here’s some pics of what’s in the box.
Here’s some pics of what’s in the box.
#2
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
I’ll be using a Chaos 600 for the mechanics and a Plug and Play three bladed head swinging 700mm scale blades with a SK 720 for stabilization. Align DS 610’s on the cyclic and 620 or 650 on the tail. I have an Align 700MX motor that I’ll be trying to mount in the Chaos, with its wide frames I may be able to pull that off. If not I’ll use a scorpion 4035 – 500. The heli will be running 12S.
#3
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
The manual attaches the tail before doing the landing gear. I’m going to do the gear 1st. I think it should make handling the tail a bit easier as the body wont be able to spin and slip around as easily.
The 1st step is to build the landing gear jig included in the kit. This is simply a wooden box that raises the mechanics.
TF models has changed the landing gears setup a bit and I don’t have the new wooden formers that should go with the new gear. As a result I’ll be using a combinantion of fiber glass cloth and Model Matrx epoxy to secure the gear.
The 1st step is to build the landing gear jig included in the kit. This is simply a wooden box that raises the mechanics.
TF models has changed the landing gears setup a bit and I don’t have the new wooden formers that should go with the new gear. As a result I’ll be using a combinantion of fiber glass cloth and Model Matrx epoxy to secure the gear.
#4
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
1st I line the strut up where I want it . The tack it with a cople of drops of tech bond on the bottom of the strut. Then I fiber glassed the end of the strut to the wood. After that dries I covered the strut in model matrix epoxy. This is an epoxy that is impregnated with fiber glass and has a ver thick consistency.
#5
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Tail boom
Next step is to get the tail boom on. The manual calls for using three bolts and epoxy. I want to be able to remove the tail so I can work on the festoon if needed. So I’m going to use 6 or 7 bolts. My 1st thought was to make a cardboard template and drill through it into the main body. Then take the template off and put it on the tail and use the holes as a guild. Unfortunately it didn’t work very well. Only a few of the top holes matched up.
So I clamped the tail boom on and using the body holes as a guild I drill the tail by going through the body with the dremel using the long flex shaft. I wont actually be attaching the boom yet, TFModels is sending a replacement belt drive gear. The original tears the belts up. Doing the replacement will be much easier with the boom off.
Next step is to get the tail boom on. The manual calls for using three bolts and epoxy. I want to be able to remove the tail so I can work on the festoon if needed. So I’m going to use 6 or 7 bolts. My 1st thought was to make a cardboard template and drill through it into the main body. Then take the template off and put it on the tail and use the holes as a guild. Unfortunately it didn’t work very well. Only a few of the top holes matched up.
So I clamped the tail boom on and using the body holes as a guild I drill the tail by going through the body with the dremel using the long flex shaft. I wont actually be attaching the boom yet, TFModels is sending a replacement belt drive gear. The original tears the belts up. Doing the replacement will be much easier with the boom off.
#6
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
While I’m waiting on the tail drive gear and the mechanics to arrive I’ll start knocking some of the details out.
1st up painting the inside. I cleaned out the inside with some denatured alcohol and mixed up some gray paint. This is one of the things I like about electric scale birds. I can use almost anything that will stick to fiberglass, no nito fuel to worry about. In this case I grabbed some cheap acrylic black and white paint from wal marts craft section and mixed a shade of gray.
1st up painting the inside. I cleaned out the inside with some denatured alcohol and mixed up some gray paint. This is one of the things I like about electric scale birds. I can use almost anything that will stick to fiberglass, no nito fuel to worry about. In this case I grabbed some cheap acrylic black and white paint from wal marts craft section and mixed a shade of gray.
#7
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Dummy engine
To make the dummy engine look better I opened the intake with a demel. Then used a file and put screen in. I used individual pieces of screen so I could keep the bell shape. I test fit the screen and then put a small amount of thick CA on the bracket. Putting slight pressure on the screen got the shape I was looking for.
Having trouble posting the pic but I did get the before and after shot
To make the dummy engine look better I opened the intake with a demel. Then used a file and put screen in. I used individual pieces of screen so I could keep the bell shape. I test fit the screen and then put a small amount of thick CA on the bracket. Putting slight pressure on the screen got the shape I was looking for.
Having trouble posting the pic but I did get the before and after shot
#8
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Intakes
I got the mechanics in. Im not going to go into build details on those. One item of note though. The Align 700 mx motors mounting holes didn’t line up with the chaos’s motor mount. I tried using a KDE motor mount but I’m having trouble getting its spacing working with the wider chaos frames. I’ll use a scorpion 4035.
I did get some more detail work done on the fuse. I opened up the air intakes. This was simply a matter of rough cutting with a dremel cutting wheel then using a sanding drum and a small file. I still have more work to do on these.
I got the mechanics in. Im not going to go into build details on those. One item of note though. The Align 700 mx motors mounting holes didn’t line up with the chaos’s motor mount. I tried using a KDE motor mount but I’m having trouble getting its spacing working with the wider chaos frames. I’ll use a scorpion 4035.
I did get some more detail work done on the fuse. I opened up the air intakes. This was simply a matter of rough cutting with a dremel cutting wheel then using a sanding drum and a small file. I still have more work to do on these.
#9
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Forward facing spot lights.
I did some of the work on the forward facing spotlights. The kit has big sliver bulbs where the clear glass is on the movie heli. I found some 32x200mm test tubes on ebay.
I cut the fiberglass bulb off with a dermal cutting wheel and cleaned the inside up a bit with a sanding drum. Then cut the glass test tube end to fit. I’ll be installing lights in these along with a reflective backing. Then I’ll epoxy the glass in.
I did some of the work on the forward facing spotlights. The kit has big sliver bulbs where the clear glass is on the movie heli. I found some 32x200mm test tubes on ebay.
I cut the fiberglass bulb off with a dermal cutting wheel and cleaned the inside up a bit with a sanding drum. Then cut the glass test tube end to fit. I’ll be installing lights in these along with a reflective backing. Then I’ll epoxy the glass in.
#10
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
I got back to doing some more work on the Blue Thunder. The lights came in, I’m using Xtec lights on this project. They are my go to lighting system for standoff scale. They are very bright, easy to setup and have proven to be reliable (the set in my UH1 are on their 3rd season. I’m using 5mm white in each housing. I made a spacer to sit inside the housing and drilled a hole in it for a reflector. I glued that in and then glued the glass in.
#11
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Electronics pods
The electronics pods had a nav light and a white strob. They are mounted on a teardrop shaped fixture. The strob is on the face with the nav light coming out of the front of the teardrop. I made the teardrop out of wood drilling a hole for the strob and the nav light.
I started with a smaller fixture but had to make it bigger, every time I drilled it the wood broke. It’s a little larger than I’d like but in the end its as small as I could make it. The Xtec 3mm lights are pretty bright so they should show in full sunlight. The rest was just a matter of drilling a hole for the wires and gluing it in place. Once the lighting was in place I glued the second half of the pod on.
The electronics pods had a nav light and a white strob. They are mounted on a teardrop shaped fixture. The strob is on the face with the nav light coming out of the front of the teardrop. I made the teardrop out of wood drilling a hole for the strob and the nav light.
I started with a smaller fixture but had to make it bigger, every time I drilled it the wood broke. It’s a little larger than I’d like but in the end its as small as I could make it. The Xtec 3mm lights are pretty bright so they should show in full sunlight. The rest was just a matter of drilling a hole for the wires and gluing it in place. Once the lighting was in place I glued the second half of the pod on.
#12
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Landing gear.
The landing gear on the Blue Thunder has an interesting step plate. Theirs a cylinder on the inside edge with a fin mounted on it. The cylinder is actually a light the shines on the body of the heli. This was added to brighten up the heli for night shots in the movie. I put this on my step plate but didn’t bother putting a light in it. Given its size it wouldn’t cast enough light to see during the day. I have NO plans on night flying this bird! Recreating the step plate was simply a matter of cutting the landing gear level and cutting brass stock and tech bonding it all together.
The landing gear on the Blue Thunder has an interesting step plate. Theirs a cylinder on the inside edge with a fin mounted on it. The cylinder is actually a light the shines on the body of the heli. This was added to brighten up the heli for night shots in the movie. I put this on my step plate but didn’t bother putting a light in it. Given its size it wouldn’t cast enough light to see during the day. I have NO plans on night flying this bird! Recreating the step plate was simply a matter of cutting the landing gear level and cutting brass stock and tech bonding it all together.
#13
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Well today I tackled the one part of the project I’ve been dreading. PAINT. I’ve never used a paint gun before. At the beginning of this project I knew I’d have to do some painting that I wouldn’t be able to get in rattle can so I went to Harbor freight and got an automotive touchup gun. I’ve always regarded this as a magical device only to be wielded by the Scale Gods. Between the psi ranges and multiple knobs pointing this thing at any of my heli parts could only end in disaster or at the least hours of sanding. But at this point I could put it off no longer. I dragged my little 125 psi compressor down to the basement. Put the fitting on the paint gun and read the instructions card one more time. Note the instructions only contained two pieces of information . 1. that the company that makes the gun where not responsible for any thing from the beginning of time to date and 2 that the psi range was between 75 – 100 psi. This did nothing to easy my fears and I made sure that I had enough sandpaper to fix the coming disaster. I grabbed a big piece of cardboard the parts I needed to paint and the gun and headed for the basement. I loaded the gun with flat blue and made a couple of passes on the cardboard. I discovered that one knob adjusted the paint flow another the air. Things where looking up after a few more passes I got the parts ready. I spayed the gear and the dummy engine. After the 1st coat the wet paint didn’t look to good, it didn’t seem to be even and it was dimply. Now I knew Id be spending the rest of the day sanding and cursing under my breath. But as the paint dried it soothed out and looked ok. I added two more coats and all went well!
Damn now I have to build a paint booth.
Damn now I have to build a paint booth.
#14
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Tail lights.
I mounted the lights on the tail yesterday. A white strob on top and a red strob at the tip of the tail. I used the Xtec 3mm lights. I tried fishing the wires out to the tail boom with a rod but ended up removing the feston cover. The installation was pretty straight forward the only thing that presented a challenge was getting the holes just big enough. Start small fit ream fit and repeat as required. Drop of tech bond gel secured the lights.
I mounted the lights on the tail yesterday. A white strob on top and a red strob at the tip of the tail. I used the Xtec 3mm lights. I tried fishing the wires out to the tail boom with a rod but ended up removing the feston cover. The installation was pretty straight forward the only thing that presented a challenge was getting the holes just big enough. Start small fit ream fit and repeat as required. Drop of tech bond gel secured the lights.
#15
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Mounting the electronics pods
TF models molded panel lines to position the pods. I started by drilling to small holes that I would later use to for screw on the inside of the fuse. Then I opened a hole for the lighting wires and sanded the area for gluing. I masked the area off in case the tech bond gel tried to run. One of the things I noticed while test fitting was that the fuse isn’t completely flat in this area. I wasn’t to difficult to keep the pods mounting area level so I didn’t bother making a jig or stacking anything to keep it level. After routing the wires I applied tech bond to the pod and positioned it on the fuse. A little kicker kept it in place. After it dried I ran two small screws through the fuse into the pod for good measure.
I’ve still got detail to add to these after I mount the mechanics.
TF models molded panel lines to position the pods. I started by drilling to small holes that I would later use to for screw on the inside of the fuse. Then I opened a hole for the lighting wires and sanded the area for gluing. I masked the area off in case the tech bond gel tried to run. One of the things I noticed while test fitting was that the fuse isn’t completely flat in this area. I wasn’t to difficult to keep the pods mounting area level so I didn’t bother making a jig or stacking anything to keep it level. After routing the wires I applied tech bond to the pod and positioned it on the fuse. A little kicker kept it in place. After it dried I ran two small screws through the fuse into the pod for good measure.
I’ve still got detail to add to these after I mount the mechanics.
#16
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Mechanics mounted.
I mounted the Chaos mechanics. I though that without having to worry about the tail this would be a snap, I was wrong I was still a PIA. I had put a drop of CA on the nuts that rest in the base plate back when the mechanics where pod and boom. This makes it easier when bolting up from the bottom of the fuse. So on the 1st bolt the nut came out. Re glued it and got the 1st bolt in the front. The two front bolts are easy because you can reach through the air hole in the bottom of the fuse to help guild them in. The fiberglass sits about an inch below the wooden mounting plate. The back two where a different story. You cant guild reach from the vent hole to help guild them. After a dozen of so attempts to get one in I widened the holes in the fuse. Once I opened the holes up in the fiberglass. I could see that the predrilled holes in the fuse didn’t line up with the base plate. They where only off a mm or so but enough to cause a problem. I drilled them out a little and that did the trick.
I mounted the Chaos mechanics. I though that without having to worry about the tail this would be a snap, I was wrong I was still a PIA. I had put a drop of CA on the nuts that rest in the base plate back when the mechanics where pod and boom. This makes it easier when bolting up from the bottom of the fuse. So on the 1st bolt the nut came out. Re glued it and got the 1st bolt in the front. The two front bolts are easy because you can reach through the air hole in the bottom of the fuse to help guild them in. The fiberglass sits about an inch below the wooden mounting plate. The back two where a different story. You cant guild reach from the vent hole to help guild them. After a dozen of so attempts to get one in I widened the holes in the fuse. Once I opened the holes up in the fiberglass. I could see that the predrilled holes in the fuse didn’t line up with the base plate. They where only off a mm or so but enough to cause a problem. I drilled them out a little and that did the trick.
#17
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Windows are in and spot lights mounted.
I got the windows in. The manual said the windows where laser cut. Not mine , I got a sheet of clear plastic and spent Friday night and Saturday morning with a hot knife cutting out the 14 windows. After the glue set I added black trim. I also got the spot lights mounted. I tacked them in place with a little tech bond then covered them with model matrix.
I got the windows in. The manual said the windows where laser cut. Not mine , I got a sheet of clear plastic and spent Friday night and Saturday morning with a hot knife cutting out the 14 windows. After the glue set I added black trim. I also got the spot lights mounted. I tacked them in place with a little tech bond then covered them with model matrix.
#18
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Dummy engine mounted.
I got the dummy engine mounted. This was simply a matter of lining everything up and epoxying it down. Something to note It was pointless to attach the boom so that it cound be removed, the dummy engine gets mounted in such a way as to make removing the boom impossible.
I got a test hop in before I mounted the dummy engine. I didn’t get to do much more than hover around but it did confirm that the festoon would hold at 85% throttle.
I got the dummy engine mounted. This was simply a matter of lining everything up and epoxying it down. Something to note It was pointless to attach the boom so that it cound be removed, the dummy engine gets mounted in such a way as to make removing the boom impossible.
I got a test hop in before I mounted the dummy engine. I didn’t get to do much more than hover around but it did confirm that the festoon would hold at 85% throttle.
#19
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
Turret
I tackled the turret yesterday. I decided to make the turret moveable, I intended to put a servo in to move it from side to side. I started by drilling a hole and putting a dowel in the T shaped piece of wood that the turret half’s mount to. The I drilled a hole slightly larger than the dowel in the fuse. I cut a piece of brass tube to fit the hole, the dowel moved well inside the tube. Next I cut a piece of plastic (CD case cover) slightly smaller than the turret top. I drilled a hole in the center to fit the dowel rod and one for the a 450 ball link. Before I attached the ball link I test mounted the T bracket and put the plastic disk on, this allowed me to use a sharpie to mark the path the ball link would travel. This needed to be cutout to allow the ball link to travel freely. I dremeled out the ball links path and then screwed the ball link in and put everything back together and epoxye the plastic plate to the dowel rod. Once everything dried I epoxy the turret halfs together on the mounting bracket. Then I just needed to dremel out a bit of the top of the turret to allow it to fit over the dowel.
Once all this had set for a few hours I snapped on a 450 link and tried moving the turret. It moved but only about 5 deg’s ! I though I had gotten epoxy under the plastic disk (this would be disastrous) but that wasn’t the case. As it turns out due to the size of the lower turret it can only move slightly before it makes contact with the fuse. I probably wont bother mounting a servo for it.
I tackled the turret yesterday. I decided to make the turret moveable, I intended to put a servo in to move it from side to side. I started by drilling a hole and putting a dowel in the T shaped piece of wood that the turret half’s mount to. The I drilled a hole slightly larger than the dowel in the fuse. I cut a piece of brass tube to fit the hole, the dowel moved well inside the tube. Next I cut a piece of plastic (CD case cover) slightly smaller than the turret top. I drilled a hole in the center to fit the dowel rod and one for the a 450 ball link. Before I attached the ball link I test mounted the T bracket and put the plastic disk on, this allowed me to use a sharpie to mark the path the ball link would travel. This needed to be cutout to allow the ball link to travel freely. I dremeled out the ball links path and then screwed the ball link in and put everything back together and epoxye the plastic plate to the dowel rod. Once everything dried I epoxy the turret halfs together on the mounting bracket. Then I just needed to dremel out a bit of the top of the turret to allow it to fit over the dowel.
Once all this had set for a few hours I snapped on a 450 link and tried moving the turret. It moved but only about 5 deg’s ! I though I had gotten epoxy under the plastic disk (this would be disastrous) but that wasn’t the case. As it turns out due to the size of the lower turret it can only move slightly before it makes contact with the fuse. I probably wont bother mounting a servo for it.
#21
Thread Starter
RE: Blue Thunder build
sorry , I forgot all about this thread. I got it finished. 2 1/2 min into the maden flight the feston failed. It began slowing and speeding up. I was ten ft or so up when it happen. It started slowly spinning like a top. I made correctuions as it came around tail in and managed to get it down about 5 ft when it started to spin faster. I threw the hold at that point. It hit hard enough to knock all the scale bits like the air intakes , electronics pods and dummy engine off. It didnt break the fuse or the landing gear. Its going to need some work to get it back in the air. I'll wait till winter to start on it again.
I think the feston motors esc went into thermal protection or something. I do know that esc will not be in it on the next maiden!
I think the feston motors esc went into thermal protection or something. I do know that esc will not be in it on the next maiden!
#22
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While I’m waiting on the tail drive gear and the mechanics to arrive I’ll start knocking some of the details out.
1st up painting the inside. I cleaned out the inside with some denatured alcohol and mixed up some gray paint. This is one of the things I like about electric scale birds. I can use almost anything that will stick to fiberglass, no nito fuel to worry about. In this case I grabbed some cheap acrylic black and white paint from wal marts craft section and mixed a shade of gray.
1st up painting the inside. I cleaned out the inside with some denatured alcohol and mixed up some gray paint. This is one of the things I like about electric scale birds. I can use almost anything that will stick to fiberglass, no nito fuel to worry about. In this case I grabbed some cheap acrylic black and white paint from wal marts craft section and mixed a shade of gray.
Can you please assist if yu have plans or instructions to make this base frame ,
Thanks