Would this work?
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Would this work?
Ok, we all know all them toy foat planes? the ones we throw Gliders. Well my local arts and craft sell giant ones roughly 45cm. It i were to slap a few servos esc and reciver + motor it would fligh right?. I'm not sure if it is strong enough or can carry that much wait but, i can mod it. Sorry if this is in the wroung section.
#2
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RE: Would this work?
A buddy added a throttle equipped .020 Cox engine and three small servos in a foam model about that size over 20 years ago. It did great touch and goes off of a concrete parking lot. You may need to reinforce the wing, but it would be much easier to do today.
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RE: Would this work?
ok, I have a spare 380 motor lying around so i could use that ( its cheepest). The only thing in this hobby is how do i make the airons and rudder move. I've sused out the rudder (useing some copper wire conecting it to the servo. Also what would be good to re inforce the wings.
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RE: Would this work?
It's been done by lots of folks.
First off though you need to do some more research on cutting away the control surfaces and how to install hinges. And forget the copper wire for connecting the servos to the surfaces. In fact your last post suggests that you need to do a lot more Search functions on such things as "how to hinge" and "control installations". There's been a number of such threads in the past that can guide you on these basics. After you read a few of them if you still have questions come on back.
I'd also suggest that a brushed 380 can motor is going to be marginal power for one of the 3 foot wingspan foamies. There are cheap brushless combination packs of motor and ESC available from such places as Hobby King that would produce a far higher chance of success.
First off though you need to do some more research on cutting away the control surfaces and how to install hinges. And forget the copper wire for connecting the servos to the surfaces. In fact your last post suggests that you need to do a lot more Search functions on such things as "how to hinge" and "control installations". There's been a number of such threads in the past that can guide you on these basics. After you read a few of them if you still have questions come on back.
I'd also suggest that a brushed 380 can motor is going to be marginal power for one of the 3 foot wingspan foamies. There are cheap brushless combination packs of motor and ESC available from such places as Hobby King that would produce a far higher chance of success.
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#9
RE: Would this work?
This is a proven solution for light and simple hinges:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beTRGGC52N4Mgl
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beTRGGC52N4Mgl
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RE: Would this work?
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RE: Would this work?
Ok, after reading it more Its how i could attach the alierons to the wings. Thanks So should i still use the cable way of attaching it to the servo?
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RE: Would this work?
just got one and mesured it and the wingspan is 18".I could easly fit a motor on it by cutting into the front. Also I'll glue the wing in place. And tape over the wing. I will then install the servos and stufff...
#15
RE: Would this work?
ORIGINAL: 1/16 Scale Cat
So should i still use the cable way of attaching it to the servo?
So should i still use the cable way of attaching it to the servo?
This i sgood reading about the available options for controling surfaces with servos:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ware/index.htm
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RE: Would this work?
Wow man. You are probally the most helpful man on here.
If only there were more people like you. And am i right in saying the real piperJ cub used a pull-pull???? And so did the write brothers?
If only there were more people like you. And am i right in saying the real piperJ cub used a pull-pull???? And so did the write brothers?
#18
RE: Would this work?
Place pieces of tape on each side (the full length of the hinge may add too much weight), making sure the hinge will be free in both direction.
Check this sequence:
http://wmparkflyers.com/Howtobuildafoamy.aspx
Check this sequence:
http://wmparkflyers.com/Howtobuildafoamy.aspx
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RE: Would this work?
Thanks, I'll sort it out once i've brought everything.Anyway i'm really tired so night. Its 9 pm here in the uk!!!
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RE: Would this work?
Scale Cat, did I read that right that the model you want to convert is only 18 inch wingspan? If so I'd suggest you stop right now and go find the bigger foam gliders that are up around 3 foot span. To keep a small model like an 18 inch span one down to an acceptable weight requires highly specialized and not cheap super micro equipment. Even a lot of the now fairly common micro gear would be too big and heavy for such a small model.
Doubling the model to 3 feet may not seem like a big change but it quadruples the wing area and at the same time the "scale effect", sometimes given the term Reynolds number, gets far more favourable with the increase in size. So the bigger model can carry far more than the doubling of the size would suggest. And even more than the quadrupling of the wing area would suggest.
Don't be afraid to use Lnewqban's information about the tape hinges for full span application. It's not going to come out too heavy at all.
While pull-pull systems do work well they often come with some funky geometry problems that if you don't watch the ratios of the setups can result in slack or overly tight cables that cause trouble. For your first few models I'd suggest sticking with wire pushrods and single sided control horns. It's far more simple to set up and avoids some fussy adjsuting of angles and stuff that pull-pull can result in requireing.
Doubling the model to 3 feet may not seem like a big change but it quadruples the wing area and at the same time the "scale effect", sometimes given the term Reynolds number, gets far more favourable with the increase in size. So the bigger model can carry far more than the doubling of the size would suggest. And even more than the quadrupling of the wing area would suggest.
Don't be afraid to use Lnewqban's information about the tape hinges for full span application. It's not going to come out too heavy at all.
While pull-pull systems do work well they often come with some funky geometry problems that if you don't watch the ratios of the setups can result in slack or overly tight cables that cause trouble. For your first few models I'd suggest sticking with wire pushrods and single sided control horns. It's far more simple to set up and avoids some fussy adjsuting of angles and stuff that pull-pull can result in requireing.
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RE: Would this work?
Hey, I can't seem to find any 3 foot gliders anywhere can you surest where to find them? google dosent find anything :'( Also how dose the push rod system work??? And where do i get the rods and stuff?
#23
RE: Would this work?
BMatthews is correct, 18" is too small.
Tower offers at leat two big foam gliders:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLFF7&P=RF
(To which one of my previous links refers to: http://www.acesim.com/rc/polly/polly.html)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLFF9&P=RF
Tower offers at leat two big foam gliders:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLFF7&P=RF
(To which one of my previous links refers to: http://www.acesim.com/rc/polly/polly.html)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLFF9&P=RF
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RE: Would this work?
The big 3 foot toss around foam gliders often can be found in toy stores.
As for pushrods and stuff you'll want to check out a hobby shop. You need music wire to fit the holes in your servos for starters. Then you need to get the push from the servo to the surface. One way is to use the same length of wire the whole way. But since it is flexible and you can't "push a wet noodle" you would need to use a plastic tube to run the wire in. The tube is secured with glue at each end. With it secured that way the forces trying to buckle the wire balance out and what goes in one end comes out the other end.
There's other options as well since running music wire the whole way is often not a good idea. The options range from plastic tubes in tubes with threaded connectors at each end to traditional folks like me that make my non metal pushrods up from sticks of hard balsa or spruce with wire ends bound to the wood with glue and thread. Others use carbon fiber arrow shafts with wire ends. And there's also flexible cables in supporting tubes that just need stiff wire ends added using solder.
Once you get the push and pull to the control surfaces then you need a Z shaped bend or a quick link to connect to a control horn that is mounted on the control surface. The control horn is what is used to convert the pushrod travel from back and forth to up and down or side to side on the surface.
As for pushrods and stuff you'll want to check out a hobby shop. You need music wire to fit the holes in your servos for starters. Then you need to get the push from the servo to the surface. One way is to use the same length of wire the whole way. But since it is flexible and you can't "push a wet noodle" you would need to use a plastic tube to run the wire in. The tube is secured with glue at each end. With it secured that way the forces trying to buckle the wire balance out and what goes in one end comes out the other end.
There's other options as well since running music wire the whole way is often not a good idea. The options range from plastic tubes in tubes with threaded connectors at each end to traditional folks like me that make my non metal pushrods up from sticks of hard balsa or spruce with wire ends bound to the wood with glue and thread. Others use carbon fiber arrow shafts with wire ends. And there's also flexible cables in supporting tubes that just need stiff wire ends added using solder.
Once you get the push and pull to the control surfaces then you need a Z shaped bend or a quick link to connect to a control horn that is mounted on the control surface. The control horn is what is used to convert the pushrod travel from back and forth to up and down or side to side on the surface.