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Pacific Ace 74 inch

Old 01-22-2020, 04:22 PM
  #26  
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Today while waiting for the plumber to come I worked on the fuse top and bottom gussets. Needed the garage door open so I could keep an eye out. Fortunately It was reasonably warm, I was rather surprise.

Finessed the job after the plumber left. Then used my mounted dremel and my smallest sanding drum to round out all the gussets.

Next I puttied every thing but the wing. Will do that tomorrow. My Back absolutely gave out.

Ken
Old 01-23-2020, 04:43 PM
  #27  
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Puttied the wings last night. Iv'e puttied and sand places that I would never bother with except this plane is going to covered in transparent red with white as the trim color. So pretty much everything is visible.

Today I mounted the engine. I had a new mount for the .25 as the last shattered when I crashed the plane it was mounted to. Screwed the mount to the face of a 2x4 and check that it was level, then used my drill press. Sure is nice having it back in business again. It was down while I replaced the motor bearings and then had to resit and lock tight the pulley set screw. But now I know I am going to drill straight holes . some times takes a bit of set up time, but that is more than fine.

The muffler would not clear the side of the aircraft when the engine was straight up, so that is why it is cocked over at 45 degrees. I put the 6 ounce tank together so I could get it's center line and thus mount the engine so the carb center was lined up with the tank center line. I gave myself a little fudge room with the tank, so it is not all the way up to the top of the tank compartment. Heck the nose of this bird is pretty big so might as well give fudge room.

Also another thing I did was to add some 1/4" to the lower spruce stringers that attach to the bottom of the fire wall. I had found it necessary to make kerf cuts in them at 45 degree angles to make the finale bends. So the 1/4" sheet I added reinforces the stringers. I have some 1/32" birch ply that bends real easy. I am going to cover the nose section with it.

And then I am looking at all the parts and thinking not a lot left till the wing panels need to joined. So I started jigging up for that. When everything fits right The I will epoxy the dihedral doublers and build the center section in between them.

Ken





Last edited by flyingagin; 01-23-2020 at 04:45 PM.
Old 01-24-2020, 05:04 PM
  #28  
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Spent most of my effort today adjusting my jigging and making sure lengths were correct, every thing square and true. Put a piece of 1/4" medium hard balsa between the spares in the center section.The spar front doubler is now epoxied on. The t.e. doubler is also epoxied in.

Next step the spar rear double will be epoxied in. I am use it right now as a clamping surface. I put 2" wide Scotch tape on it so the epoxy would not stick to it. Hoping the double comes right off, should.

The l.e. double will take a bit more work to install.I had to tilt the l.e. stock I had to match the airfoil shape.So that means I need to shape some balsa to a V shape to fit in between the doubler and the l.e.

Ken


Old 01-25-2020, 06:05 PM
  #29  
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I put in a lot of hours today.

Before I even ate breakfast this morning I went out to the garage and pulled all of the clamps of the wing and brought it inside and admired it. It is always a major mile point to me when the wing panels are joined and suddenly it is a WING!

Then later on I went back out and got to work. Kind of bounced around on jobs in the morning. Added the dihedral doubler to the back of the spars and put the bottom center sheeting in place. Figured it would be much easier to then put the center section ribs in on top of the sheeting.

Next I put the fuse forward side sheeting in place. I fitted 1/4" sheet balsa in between the frame work. I had a really light piece of 1/4 stock and just figured it would add a lot of stiffness up front. And it really was not hard to fit the sheeting. Tacked a slightly oversize piece in place with a drop of thin CA and reached thru from the opposite side and marked the 1/4 sheeting. trace around the inside of the framing. Used the disc sander to get the piece to exact shape. Once I had a perfect fit I set it aside and repeated the process on the other side. Double checked both sides and then glue them in. I glued them slightly proud of the frame work so I could the sand down them down to the frame, A lot of dust.Lots of sneezing. What a moron I are! I have a quality dusk mask 3' from were I was sitting. And being an asthmatic, that just stupid. Did I learn anything? I strongly doubt it!

Then back to the wing after lunch. Added the back half of the center ribs, and the center bottom front sheeting, and ribs.

Fussed around with several false starts on the hold down dowels before I finally settled on an approach. The dowels (carbon fiber rods) need to be level and square in order for the wing to easily slide forward into place before the wing bolts in back are screwed in. The key to the alignment is the back anchors for the carbon rods. I finally cut the a little short, drilled them, and the used a impromptu jig and string level to get the correct position, the just pushed the back anchors against the spar dihedral doubler to glue them in place. Seems like a big effort to do some them so simple.

Then it was time to start fitting the dowel hold down together. I band sawed a piece of l.e. length wise just short of centered. Then some flat stock to sit it on to be just a bit proud of level with the wing's l.e. (will sand down later). I cut some little squares of 1/8" aircraft ply to receive the hold down dowels. The holes I drilled were not in ply blocks were not exactly the right spot. I did expect that. But a bit of sanding on the bottom sides of the blocks solved that. The ply blocks sit in dadoes in the l.e. stock that will attach to fuse. Cleared the table saw off and just nibbled out the dadoes. The little ply squares were then easy to align. Will put a piece of 1/16" ply over that back side of. That should hold. This assembly will glue to the fuse.

Ken






Old 01-26-2020, 12:09 PM
  #30  
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Spent 2 or 3 hours working on the bird this morning.

I finished closing up the front of the fuse, rough shaped the fill blocks and then added putty.

Then iI worked on the dowel receiver block, padding and sanding till the wing dowels engaging easily. Next I epoxied it to the fuse. Now I got to cool my jets while the block cures. Those clamps want to pop off with very little excuse.

Ken
Old 01-26-2020, 12:30 PM
  #31  
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Front mounting will not be visible thru the clear windshield and windows.
A pair of hard wood blocks (I have some maple handy) that are drilled and tapped for 4-20 bolts will complete the the fuse wing hold down.

I like when a plan comes together.

Ken

Old 01-26-2020, 04:12 PM
  #32  
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Sheated the wing center section.
Added filler blocks to the wing l.e. where there was a gap between them and the fuse .
Shaped the dowel block on top of the fuse.

Got plenty of putty work. I have been using Hobbico HobbyLite filler. First time Iv'e used it. Seems to work pretty good. I have used light spackling in the past. I would same the wight is like about the same. Sands as easy. Sticks about the same.

Ken


Old 01-27-2020, 05:01 PM
  #33  
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The wing is mounted.

Only thing visible will be the 2 black nylon bolt heads, 14 20.

I spent hours adjusting and tweaking the wing alignment to be dead on straight.
I used a story stick to find the same exact point towards each wing tip. made a pin hole there. and then stuck my story stick to that point on each wing panel with a pin. I then checked the opposite end of the the stick to a point on the back of the fuse. Used a pair of small C clamps to lock the back of the wing to the fuse. I loosened the C clamps and adjusted the wing a bit, then tightened the clamps and checked the other side. Repeated this process again and again tweaking the wing less and less till the story stick hit the same exact spot wing panel to panel.
The wing was finally square after an hour or 2. I was being really anneal about it.

Searched my wood bin and found a piece of 3/4" poplar, and a piece of 1/4" maple. The drill and tap chart chart called for a 7/32 drill bit. So I drilled and then tapped for s 1/4 20 a sample of each wood. I like the maple better even though it was much thinner. Had better more defined threads that I could tight down into with a steel bolt with out stripping the threads.

I then cut a pair of maple blocks, drilled and tapped, and the with a generous amount of epoxy bolted it into place. I used the steel bolts for that, but I applied a good amount of cutting oil to the bolt threads so they would not get glued in. Cutting oil was what I had handy. I have a long strip magnet stuck to the belt cover of my drill press with multiple items stuck to the magnet. I can find things easy that way for that area of the shop.

After the first maple nut plate I then went back thru the parallel checks, and the did the other nut plate. And the checked again.

I did at the end of my plane work gued in a block for the stab to glue to.

And that is plenty for today.

Ken






Old 01-28-2020, 04:56 PM
  #34  
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Not very much work done today. Just no time. Didn't even get my 25 minutes in on the Exercise bike. Trying to add 5 minutes per week. It is paying off. I also do another session in the evening. Appointments all day long.

But I did manage an hour or 2.

I added a bit of structure under the tail section, and another piece on the bottom between the fire wall and landing gear plate. I left that deliberately proud so I can come back later and use a long sanding block to shape it to bottom curve. That method has been working very well for me so far.

I will dress up the vertical pieces I added under the stab plate later


, not satisfied with how it looks.

Ken
Old 01-29-2020, 06:24 PM
  #35  
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Got some more time in this afternoon.

Hinged all the tail feathers, and fitted the elevator torque rod. No the hinges or torque rod are not glued in. That will wait to they are covered.

I had to make hole in the vertical fin post to accommodate the elevator torque rod.

Have to make up the tail wheel assembly so it tiller arm can fit into the rudder.

Started servo install. I use little Allen screws exclusively now. Love the little things. Need to order more.

Also getting ready to install the fuel tank. It is a 6 ounce tank. Should be able to fly around at 1/2 throttle or even less for ever and a day. So I drill the holes in the fire wall for the fuel tubes to pass thru, and while I was at it I also drilled a hole for the throttle cable to pass thru.

I just had to pin the tail on and bolt the wing on to get a good look at the bird. Partially to test the fit.

Ken



Old 01-30-2020, 06:11 PM
  #36  
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Today's accomplishments.

The piano wire for the tail wheel is bent and installed, I used 1 layer of 4 ounce glass. Iv'e got plenty on hand from the days I vacuum bagged some wings. I just used hobby epoxy. I prefer West Systems but haven't restocked. The stuff a bit spendy.

Stuffed the tank in and plumbed to the engine. I put a shelf under the tank and installed it between rc foam.
Started the windshield and windows. Used a piece of paper to get the curve at the front. I had a piece of plastic from some piece of electronics packaging. I cut that to the curve. Looks like the curve is good. With 2 hands I can get the plastic to follow the proper shape. But alas it is just a bit short. It is only 1/4 to 1/2" short, but short is short. No big deal. I have a good size roll stashed in an airplane rack.

Ken




Old 01-31-2020, 09:54 PM
  #37  
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Worked on the windshield / windows today.

Cut a new piece of plastic today. It is noticeably thinner and easier to work with. Fitted and trim and repeated several times. Then ended up over trimming. Cut another piece. Irritated at wasting stock. But it has to be correct, period. More trim and fit, repeat. Very close now. No gluing yet.

Left excess to fold under framing. Fold the mash the fold over and put under or around frame members. Folded it over like a piece of paper, then mashed flat with a piece of scrap wood. It almost holds on its on. Not sure if This will stay or not. Experimenting.

Got just a bit of trimming to do. Thinking of making fillet with epoxy and micro balloons at the front above the tank F1 area. This will offer a lot more glue surface. RC 56 is the glue I using for this. It has worked like a champ for me in the past. I found my bottle from maybe 15 years ago, the last time a used it. The cap is jammed up but good, but the glue itself is perfect.

Ken


Old 02-01-2020, 01:32 PM
  #38  
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It worked! I made a fillet for the front bottom of the windshield. Wasn't a 100% sure the method would work, but it did.

I used the windshield that I cut a bit short. I put scotch tape on both sides of it't bottom curved section. I then waxed both side with paste Carnuba car wax. I keep that on hand to wax the cast iron on table saw and other tools.

I then mixed some epoxy with micro balloons. I made a rather thick paste. I had the epoxy bottles sitting in hot water to thin the resin out. It ended up very thin. I put a light coat of of epoxy (with no micro balloons) on the area I was going to apply the epoxy micro balloons slurry to. The slurry ends up a bit dry so pre coating the application area first really helps the slurry stick.

I then put the reject windshield. I just used a few pins. Once happy with the fit I stuck the fuse in my pick up with the windows closed the nose sitting on the dash in the sun. A couple of hours later I have a fillet. Needs trimming.

That fillet will provide a good glue surface area to to glue the bottom from of the windshield in place.

Ken

Old 02-01-2020, 02:26 PM
  #39  
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And trimmed and sanded. Sanding roughens the slurry enough to grab the RC 56 glue.

Our 100 lbs of bad in a 20 pound package, Bella is totally board. But last time time we had her out at the flying field she was very interest in the low passes.

I covered the rough former with some 1/16" just for aesthetics. Going to see if I can find a picture of a simple instrument panel to attach. Depends on my patience level.

The framing that will show around the nose thru the windshield will get painted black. Have to get some yet. Easy to justify, as I have another plane that needs some of the black on it redone (The avatar).

Ken




Old 02-03-2020, 05:59 PM
  #40  
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Did some work yesterday on the bird.

Made a mount for the Rx and made a battery box.

Wife wants to cover the front of the plane to the wing t.e. with with white as well as the vertical fin. This has the advantage of letting me hide the radio gear. I wasn't planning on that much white. But I am a smart enough man to know to acquiesce to the wife.

So although I do not like the looks of the Rx mount or battery box, they won't be seen. I do plan on a false deck and bulkhead at the bottom back of the windows. I did that on my Sig Kadet Sr. to good effect. It hides the guts.

The Rx (a FrSky RX4R) will mount to the Rx mount with double sided sticky foam. That stuff sticks like crazy, and with the Rx weighing only 2.4 grams it will stay put. I stick the unshielded part of the antennas into silicon fuel tubing, and use a sliver of soft balsa to wedge it in. Protects the antennas, keeps them in their place, and makes it easy to remove. I know their are other ways of doing this, that may be better, I'm all ears guys. I am new to 2.4 ghz. My appearance is with 72 mhz and even before that with 27 mhz ( I think I remember it being 27 mhz).

The battery is mounted in a balsa box with foam around it and a Velcro strap in front to ensure the battery never comes out unintentionally. The box is mount 1/2" above the planes bottom. I may make a pair of floats later for this plane, and I want all of the gear above the bottom in case I should ever get water inside. The battery is a 850 ma Life battery. I am only using Life batteries now.

Today I started to rip some 1" thick balsa into 1/2" pieces. Theses are only about 6" to 9" long, but will be perfect for making the cowling. If I had some West systems epoxy on hand I might have gone for a glass cowl. Iv'e made several glass cowls in the past and my last used the lost foam method. I was particularly pleased with that cowl.

But when I setting the saw up for the cut, I rotated the blade to expose an opposite tooth, I heard a lot of metal on metal scrapping sound. After investigating I found the housing that goes under the blade for dust collection was missing the lower bolt. My investigating and I was finally able to figure out were the bolt attaches. I have a small bolt from the saw that is the right diameter and thread so I will go buy another bolt. This is a job for blue Lock Tight. I am not going thru this again.

Ken




Last edited by flyingagin; 02-03-2020 at 06:02 PM.
Old 02-08-2020, 05:25 PM
  #41  
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I fixed the saw.A screw had come out. I hunted thru the box I have below the saw to catch the saw dust the vacuum fails to collect with a big magnet for the screw. No joy. I then bought a 4 mm bolt, and when i pulled it out after a test fit out comes the missing screw. Go figure. I reinstalled the original screw. Some how in the process of fixing the saw I dug a nice size gauge out of my arm. Never felt it. Found blood sometime later. That is common for me to not feel wounds to my arms, part of the nephropathy I reckon.

So then I ripped some 1" stock into 1/2" to make a cowl with. It did not look to bad, except it did not fit. I swept the bottom up to much so the engine set to low. But boy was it light after I hogged out the inside of it. But it is just scrap now.

So I started over, different method this time. I cut and glued cowl sides to the fire wall, and then added top and bottom. I did this with the engine mounted, so the cowl fits.

Now I needed to be able to get at all of the bits inside of the cowl. So I made a cut on the top and part of the side. Now I have access to all the bolts, throttle linkage, and fuel lines. Needle valves will need to set with a screw driver or the cowl off.

There are only 2 screws and one bamboo skewer dowel pin to hold the cowl. Most of the cowl actually remains on the plane, and only part of one side and the top remove. I added 2 1/8" Birch ply taps to the inside of the parts of the cowl that remain attached to accept the screws, and the inset matching taps (1/16" Birch ply) as hard points so the screws want go thru the soft balsa. Seems very secure. I may even add a spinner.

Still more shaping to do. Will need to add some blocks and sheeting so I can the sand to the final shape I want.

Got to get on the main landing gear real soon.

Ken

Old 02-08-2020, 05:28 PM
  #42  
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Here is the failed attempt.

Ken​​​​​​​




Old 02-08-2020, 05:33 PM
  #43  
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And here is the good cowl.
I will add a layer of glass to the inside to stiffen and fuel proof it.

Ken










Old 02-09-2020, 10:06 PM
  #44  
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A little more work done today. All on the cowl. Added fill to low spots and sanded my arm off. Starting to look pretty good now but still needs more shaping. Ran out of super glue so called it quits after the sanding.

Worked on the radio programming for the bird in my avatar (Windy Days). Mostly successful up to the point I realized I need a A rx with more pwm outputs. So I am learning the Horus X10. So I am going to take the rx from Windy days and put it in my Kadet Jr, since I am one pwm channel short of making that one air worthy.

I won't be able to finish the P.A. this month. Lack of funds. But next month I hope to get it in the air.

Ken
Old 02-14-2020, 09:42 PM
  #45  
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Iv'e been getting in a little time here and there on the P.A.
Been busy as heck. I went flying but first I had to get two birds ready, and I was working a a third bird. Had to put the third bird (my avatar, has 7 servos on their own channels) aside for now as the rx I had was not going to do the job. It was a 6 channel with the 6th being CPPM. I was going to sbus in the wing for its 4 servos, but all of the servos are Hitec HS-322HD, analog, so sbus is out as it needs digital servos. So I robbed the rx for another plane that I wanted to get in the air. I only managed to get the programming about half right on that one and knew it. But I got help from one of the gas turbine jockeys that use the same Tx. He was more than generous with his time.

But I did spend some time on the P.A. every day, although not a lot. My 2 accomplishments during this time was install the Rx. I also installed the power switch. I did not think that one thru real good, although it should not matter really. The thinking failure was how awkward it is going to be to get the switch in and out especially once the covering is on. The servo closest to the switch MUST be removed to mount or dismount the switch. I figure this really does not matter that much as how often does one install or remove the switch.

But my rx mount went well, forgot to get a pic. of it. But here is how I did the switch.


I am short of funds for building this month. That is the real reason for the slow down. Had some rather unexpected expenses, so that curtails spending on planes.

I have some wood stock that can start the next plane. Start it, but not finish it. So maybe I can show that. Likely a separate thread and just cross link it.

Ken

​​​​​​​
Old 02-17-2020, 04:36 PM
  #46  
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Spent some time on the radio programming today. Yeah it is rather early to do so. But all of a sudden I starting to glom onto this Tx. ("glom" see Stranger in a Strange Land by Robert A. Heinlein). I had worked on the programming for 2 other airplanes last knight while bored out of my skull with what was on TV, but the wife was enjoying it, so I programmed. And I was getting it. It was making beautiful sense to me.

So while the servo arms were easy to see why not fool around with the programming for elevator and rudder. Not that this airplane really should need it, but I sat up 3 rates and 3 expos for the 2 channels. So 40%, 60%, and 100% with 10%, 15%, and 20% respectively. Those rates seem to evenly distribute the control motion do to the circular output of the servo arm. I am open to better suggestions of rates and expo.

But I also did some real work on the bird.

I had noticed almost as soon as the cowl was made that when viewed from the front on side of the bottom front of the cowl was higher than the other. Could not live with that. So I fixed it. Looks fine now.

I also added the last piece of bottom ply for the landing gear to attach to, closing off the bottom.

I am resisting the urge to attach the tail feathers at this time. I think I want to depart from my normal sequence and cover them first to try and avoid any seam overlap that I think would show up due to using transparent red Monokote. I believe I could get away with installing the stab as the seam overlap would be on the bottom, but surly the vertical fin would show the seam overlaps.

Ken



The lopsided cowl front bottom. That is more than the camera angle


Fixed
​​​​​​​


The front piece of ply was added

Last edited by flyingagin; 02-17-2020 at 04:39 PM. Reason: Pics in front of the text
Old 02-18-2020, 04:56 PM
  #47  
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Worked on the P.A. some.

Then worked on tuning the carb on my Os .20. It is an air bleed idle carb. Got it idle-ling beautifully and then accelerating to full throttle with out any hesitation at all. And this is after a prolonged idle. So I'm happy with it.

Then worked on the P.A. some more.

I only have on piece of golden rod long enough so I had to move it from Elevator and rudder servo, and side to side while setting up the anchor points for the golden rod to run thru. All of the rounded anchors are made from balsa ply. much stronger than if I had just made them from some 1/4" stock or whatever. The front anchor is just 1/4" stock, but it is big enough that it's strength is more than enough. The golden rod is a snug fit going thru each of the anchors.

I need to pin the tail on the (no not the donkey) fuse so I could find the right placement for the golden rod anchors. I temporally install the rudder and elevator control horns so as to align the golden rod as straight as possible. It really only mattered on the rear most anchors.

The elevator and rudder servo arms as well as the elevator and rudder control horn will use 2/56 snap ball links for a zero play control system.

In the middle of everything today I had to go chase a German shepherd pup out of the back yard. We heard our chickens going ballistic. I grabbed a pitch fork and cornered him. found the hole he had tunneled into our yard thru. So after I had him cornered I got a water hose and used the spray to chase him out of the yard. He comes back again I'm going to get pissed off bad. I will get animal control to capture him. We live in the city so I can't shoot him, but if he gets one of my girls it is going to get real ugly.

Ken









Old 02-19-2020, 07:11 PM
  #48  
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Did a fair amount of different things today.
Work on the P.A.
Disassembled mom's bed to make room for a hospital bed from Hospice.
Made test rig to measure multiple Tx rates. Since the output of ta servo is circular and so is the control surface control horn I wanted to know the relative effects of various Tx rates. I'm sure this could be figured out mathematically, but the solution is way beyond me.

I joined the two elevator halves. Glassed the torque rod in. I used 4.25 ounce crows foot weave (Satin weave). I used a piece that overlapped around the torque rod about 1/2", and then a bigger piece that overlapped about half way on each side. Did one side and sat it on the dash of the truck in the warm sun to speed curing. once it was cured I trimmed it and sanded it, and then repeated the process for the other elevator half.

While the elevator half's were curing I made a test rig (very crude) to let me measure the effects of various Tx rate controls. I used scrap material to make the rig. I hinged a scrap piece of balsa that was 9" long to a piece of 1/4" ply,fasted a 1" control arm to it at the hinge line, and then fastened a servo with a 1" arm to the ply. Sat a combo sqaure at the end of the balsa arm to measure throw. I know such a long arm is not what we see with our models but it made it easy to measure. Only need relative throw any way.

So here are the numbers I got.

On 40% rate the throw was 2 inches.
On 70% rate the throw was 3.25 inches.
And on 100% rate the throw was 4.5 inches.
So those particular rates roughly divide the throw more or less evenly.

Then my elevator halves were dry. So I trimmed the Excess fiber glass, and then sanded them.

I have been debating how to handle where the golden rod exits the fuse. I knew I just couldn't let them exit with out some wood around them. So I finally said the heck with it and filled in the last open bay on each side of the fuse. I think the exits line up pretty good with their respective control horn. The inner rod sure runs free.

Ken





Old 02-19-2020, 07:25 PM
  #49  
flyingagin
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I think all I can do for another week is some sanding. Need supplies, but have to wait for payday. But I do think next month will see the maiden flight.

So tomorrow starts the work bench cleanup. Was going to go flying but, there are other priorities.

After the clean up I will see about getting a start with the materials I have on hand on my next plane. It will be a Os .46 powered Super Sporster. Only a partial build as I have good wing for it. So fuse, tail feathers, and integration.

I also have another partial (bi plane) stored that has both wings and a partial fuse started. Super Tiger .90 power.

Heck I have 2 more partial built birds waiting me.

I will post a link here for those builds.

Ken
Old 02-21-2020, 09:59 AM
  #50  
Skyhawk940
 
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Hey, Flyingagain, What's up with all of those computer tapes? I was a Field Eng for StorageTek years ago and worked on tape drives. Have not saw them for years.

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