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Pacific Ace 74 inch

Old 02-21-2020, 03:11 PM
  #51  
flyingagin
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Hi there Skyhawk940

I was a DS in the navy at that time. 4 years as GM (gunners mate missiles then the last 16 years as a DS (data systems tech).

Tape drives were at the hart of the data systems on my last 2 ships (4 ships in all). They were phased out before I left my last ship.
We had already phased out the paper tape reader and card reader. Now they ere really a pain as humidity changes would knock them out of cal.
The tape drives were a pain in my butt. Fussy and the fact that the navy bought the cheapest tapes did not help. The salt air environment and the fact that my shop was directly under the after hanger bay doors were contributors to the poor reliability of systems. The aft hanger bay doors closed with a fair shock. I was kept rather busy.

Before leaving my last ship We converted to PCs And small mini systems for the servers.
Still kept our several miles of thick coax as our network back bone. Wasn't fast but it was reliable, even the vampire taps.

The really nice thing about being a DS was I was one of the last ones to loose air conditioning. Man was that a big seal near the equator.

After I got out I worked as desk top support for the Money Store till they folded. Dang that was fun. Once made the comment to my boss that I would pay you to let me do this job.

Retired now.

Ken

Old 02-22-2020, 06:40 AM
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You're correct about the tapes, they soak up the humidity. Most likely none are any use now. I worked in Government data centers and I know what you mean about cheap tapes. The drives were always blamed for data checks when 98% of the time it was the tape. We used to laugh about all those PC's hooked together would replace a mainframe computer.

In the last 13 years of work, I've worked in Modesto many times. Lots of homeless people. Even have a Harley Davidson shirt from there.

Last edited by Skyhawk940; 02-22-2020 at 06:54 AM.
Old 02-22-2020, 08:52 AM
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On my 3rd ship (late 80's & early 90's thru dessert storm) we got a rather expensive tape certifying machine. Over half of brand new tapes would fail. Cheap garbage tapes.

I don't have any direct knowledge, but I suspect tapes are no longer used. There are so many much better, cheaper and vastly more compact methods to store vast amounts of data. Heck a thumb drive will hold more data, and is vastly faster and more reliable. I have one plugged into a port in my router at home. It holds all of our pics, all of our movies, and tons of other data. And yes that is backed up in several other places.

On my last ship (the Kitty Hawk) before I got out of the navy our data system was converted to much more modern gear, PCs replaced terminals, minis replace the old servers. We still had tapes though, legacy support. But they were small units. The worked much better. Was not a lot of parts that I could replace or fix. No vacuum systems that were maintenance hogs.


Ken






Old 02-22-2020, 10:11 PM
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I put the P.A in one of my plane storage racks for safe keeping. I have honestly done all I can on it till after payday. It will come back down in a few days.

So I cleaned up the shop area of the garage. I found some tools that had ran away and hid while working on the P.A.

The I dug out my old Dremel 4" table saw. I bought it around '81 I think. Still on the original blade and belt. The blade would not raise or tilt. Froze up. Nothing a disassembly, cleanup, and oiling didn't solve. Works a charm now. Should have done this before starting the P.A.! much easier and faster than using an Exacto saw and miter box. Cleaner cuts also.

If you have one there are some new parts available now, blades, belts, a much better fence and miter.
Blades and belt are here.

A new after market fence and miter are also available. The original fence is a step above horrid (well actually maybe not a step above), and the miter is barely OK.
Those are available here.

I am going to have to invest in all of the above.

So handy having the little saw next to the sander on the bench beside me. I even made a push block modeled after one I made for the big saw. works a charm. And keeps the fingers away from the blade. It may be only 4", but it turns like a bat from hell with it's tail on fire. It would cut down to the bone in a nano second.

So I decided to use the materials on hand to start on my next plane. A close to Super Sporster .40. I say a close to as I'm making it a bit wider so as a 10 ounce tank I have will fit inside of F2. I already have a completed wing to modify for the S.S.

So here is the S.S. thread.

After payday and I can get more material for the P.A. I will set the S.S. aside till I finish the P.A. But at least I will have a head start on the S.S.

After I finish the P.A. I will resume the S.S.

Ken

Last edited by flyingagin; 02-22-2020 at 10:34 PM. Reason: Repeated words in a sentence
Old 02-26-2020, 06:45 AM
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My most used tool is my jig saw. I use 24 tooth blades and cut most of my parts on it. I don't see as well as I used to so I have a lighted 6" magnifying glass above it. I build from plans Makes very fine and clean cuts.
Number two tools would be my drill press and 6" sanding disk...
Old 02-26-2020, 08:22 AM
  #56  
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I recently bought a new jig saw to replace the Black and Decker jig saw I bought in '77. The new is a real joy to use. I also use a real fine blade for airplane work with it. Same for my little band saw. I have a 18 tooth blade on it right now.

I constantly use my drill press. I recently had to replace the motor bearings in it. They were howling like a banshee. I went to a motor rewind shop here in town that I worked briefly in '77 to see how much they would charge me. They wanted as much in labor as a new motor would have been ($90). NO THANK YOU VERY MUCH! So I bought some cheap Harbor Freight bearing pullers, ground down the smallest so it fit and did the job myself. Cost me $16 for new bearings.

When building airplanes my disc / belt sander is most likely my most used tool. I keep the little 4" Dremel table saw right by the sander and I find I use it for all of my cut off work, even do some ripping of long balsa and Bass stock on it.

My 10" table saw also gets use for airplanes.

Ken
Old 03-11-2020, 07:50 PM
  #57  
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Worked on 2 planes today. The Super Sporster 40 and the P.A.

I was able to work on the P.A. a little bit as I bought some Rust-oleum gloss black today. I also need it to fix hanger rash on my avatar plane, "Windy Days".

Admittedly I only worked a few minutes on the P.A. I painted the cockpit framing. It will need a second coat and then I can install the windshield and windows.

After I pay some bills and see how much I have left I will make a order from Tower Hobbies.
I need to get 3 rolls of Monokote, 2 transparent red and one white. And a few other things.

If I have the money I am going to order some West Systems epoxy. I just might have a go at making carbon fiber landing gear. I have Lots of 4 oz fiber glass and a decent amount of uni direction carbon fiber. No idea what the wight of the carbon is.

Ken







Old 03-13-2020, 06:16 PM
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Not much progress today. I sanded the painted areas that that the plastic windshield will glue to. Roughened them for a second coat of paint. The other areas that are painted, I did not sand, just painted a second coat. My thinking is to improve adhesion for the plastic. I will light sand to roughen again the glue areas for the plastic before gluing it on. I figure between the glue and the clear plastic the paint should look like it was not roughened. If not, then darn the bad luck.

It should be given a 2 or 3 days before sanding and gluing the windshield / windows on.

Ken
Old 03-14-2020, 06:30 PM
  #59  
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No actual construction today. Give the paint more time to harden.

I spent the day fooling around with making a piano wire bender.

I have always bent the wire with pliers, a vise, and a hammer to persuade the wire to my will with varying degrees of success.

I am going to have to bend some landing gear struts up at some point here.

I use 2 pieces of 3/4" ply glued together, because that is what I had on hand. I first tried a piece of 1" by 2" as my bending handle and some stainless steel screws. It had no trouble bending small the small Wire used for the torque rod, but I ended up with a twist.The screw heads prevented the wire stay flat on the base.

Next try I hunted for some steel bars I remembered that I had stashed some wheres. Hunted and just as I gave up hope of finding them, I glanced to my side and low and behold spotted them.

The 1.5" ply base was drilled and tapped for 1/ - 20 bolts for the backing bar and the pivot bolt.

I drilled a 1/4" hole for my pivot pin and a 13/64" near it to tap for a 1/4 - 20 bolt. Wrong geometry. Tried the other end and the spacing was off. So it was way, way easier to just use the bar than cut off the end and try it again. Took more care and laid the handle in the correct location and moved in the way I expected things to work. Marked the locations and LABELED what each hole was so I would drill the correct size holes in the correct location. I also took more time tapping the 1/4 - 20 hole.

To hold the wire in place I just screwed a piece of 1 by 2 on top of the wire and against the backing bar.
Success on the first try. The wire was dead on flat and Was the length between bends that I had marked.

I was a bit jazzed so decided to go for broke. 3/16" wire. I only did one bend as the pivot hole in the base stripped out. Ply is just to soft. Mable might work and I do have some. I did not clamp the bender down and on the 3/16" it was difficult to hold, but I still managed a 90 degree bend. My mark ended up at the end of the bend, not the middle. Maybe a better clamping system? 3/16" wire is the size used for the 1/3 scale Pitts Special I am going to build, so I now know I can bend the gear with a sturdier wire bender.

So I need a much better base. I'm thinking the wasted steel bar mounted to the ply base might work and I won't have to buy anything.

There is a thread that I got my ideas from. There are 3 PDFs.


Ken


The backing bar (left) has slots cut in it so it can be adjusted for different sizes of wire. The bolt closest to the bottom of the pic is the pivot pin. The wire bends around it. The bolt just above and right is the bolt that actually bends the wire It has to go below the top of the base so I used a Fostner drill bit and wood chisel to re-leave a slot for it in the base.

24" handle because that is the length of the bar to start with, No way did I want to do any extra cutting of this stuff

You can see the slot for the bending bolt. the bolt needs to go below the base to get flat bends. With sturdier construction so the was no play in the handle the slot might not be needed The hole at the top bend is tapped for a 1/4 20 bolt, This is the pivot.


I may make another torque rod a bit longer with longer arms. This seems a bit small looking at it now.


Old 03-25-2020, 06:06 PM
  #60  
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Think I should should splay out the gear? The gear is real stiff right now.
Yesterday I put my wire bender to work. I had modified it a bit, replace the stock the pivot pin screws into with some maple, and also replace the clamping bar with steel. Must say it works much better now. I made main gear struts for my Super Sposter .40. That was sort of a practice run for bending up some gear the P.A. Those came out darn near perfect first try. So I started out today by bending up a tail wheel strut. Took a little fussing as there are more angles, but I got it.

So then I worked on a muffler extension for the plane in my Avatar. Had a devil of a time drilling soft aluminum to tap for 6 32 bolts. Ended up snapping the drill off in the extension and then when I picked the extension up I burned the heck out of my fingers. Raised a blister. Now I have to cut off another extension piece from the stock I have. Have to buy another drill and need a tap as well. Can't find the one I had.

So then onto the landing gear. A bit more challenging than the S.S. gear. First piece I did was the front leg. There are some 90 degree opposite bends in there I had to think about how to accommodate in my bender. No problem really. I did end up with a slight twist some were though. Took some fiddling to work it out. Then the back part of the landing gear. My wire bender is certainly not yet evolved enough to easily handle that. There will be several more versions coming, and it may be that one bender design can't do all jobs, Will have to ponder on it awhile.

But here is first try with the main landing gear. The front strut was measured and bent from the plans. I think I need to splay it out a bit to lower it some. Seems awfully tall to my eyes. But checking the plans it does sit fairly high. The other thing I see now is the length of the back strut should have been maybe an inch or even two shorter. Sets the wheels rather forward, bu that is how they are on the plans. I wanted to have the wheels a little more back to avoid the ground looping tendency my first P.A. exhibited. It truly was a squirrel. I don't think I have any more 1/8" wire or I would bend up a new back strut wire to reduce the forward rake. Can't go out and buy any now either with the state on lock down due to Covid-19 virus. The landing gear legs will be silver soldered. The joints are all ready wrapped with copper wire, I think about a 18 or 20 gauge solid strand wire.

Ken




Under the 2 1/8" struts is a scrap piece of 3/16" wire that I bent just to see how it would work. Moderate muscle level to bend it, and it bent right on the marks.


The gear straps are just temporary at this point



It ain't no low rider


Last edited by flyingagin; 03-25-2020 at 06:09 PM.
Old 03-26-2020, 07:31 PM
  #61  
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Worked on the landing gear some more. I shortened the rear strut and re bent it. The gear does not rake forward now. Instead both struts angle back to roughly the center point. Not to sure I like the looks of that. I also spread the gear legs out farther. Doesn't sit as high now. I like that part better. Still nice a stiff.

Once I have some more 1/8" wire I may make another. This is a learning curve. The wire bender works great for wire that is bent in only one plain, But multiple planes will take some thinking thru.

After the mods to the gear I soldered it up. I wrapped the joints with copper wire (about 20 gauge I think). I also warped over the copper with some steel safety wire. The piano wire,copper wire, and safety wire were a thoroughly cleaned before wrapping. Then I silver soldered it. I used a propane torch.

Ken​​​​​​​






Old 03-28-2020, 08:01 PM
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My wife bought a gram scale for her cooking needs. It arrived today. And I always thought a pinch, a handful, a dash, or a cup or whatever was good enough. Maybe that's why I not the cook.

So I just borrowed it to weigh the P.A.

I had to do it sections. But here are the numbers.
The fuse with all of the radio installed is 929 grams. = 2.0481 Lbs. = 32.769 ounces.
The batter is a 850 850mAh Weight 50 grams - 1.8 oz
The servos are Hitec HS-322HD Weight 1.5oz = 43grams times 3
The rx is 5 grams
No covering yet. Does include landing gear. Not the lightest struts in the world.

The wing weighs 411 grams = .0061 Lbs = 14.498 ounces
Not yet covered.

The tail feathers weigh 89 grams = .1962 Lbs = 3.1394 ounces.
Not yet covered and no tail wheel yet but does have the strut. Also a control horns.

The engine and motor mount weigh 301 grams = .6636 Lbs = 10.617 ounces

So the grand total without covering 1737 grams = 3.8294 Lbls = 61.271 ounces. The wing will pick up a little weight when I fiber glass it, but that should be just about the final weight minus covering.
The same holds for the rest of the plane.

Ken
Old 04-02-2020, 08:14 AM
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Mom passed away last night in her sleep, peacefully in her sleep
Old 04-22-2020, 05:11 PM
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Mom was buried. They allowed 2 in to view her (every body wear mask)and then took the casket to the plot while everybody stayed in there car and watched them lower it. And that is how it is done today what with the virus.

I bought a N95 mask years ago for the dust generating operations of wood working. So I do have a good mask if a bit smelly. As free flowing as those are I still work a bit harder to breath when wearing it unless I am sitting still. I do wear it out when shopping, and Iv'e learned to just walk slower, and get get 'er done and out. Asthma. My chest gets tired fast of of breathing that way. Someday I just may make myself a powered respirator to supply filtered air. Doesn't seem hard. And the only regs it has to pass are mine. Basically just work. A vacuum down draft sanding board, and a fan to suck air away from me with a filter on it would likely work rather well also. I had a vacuum down draft sanding board at one time. It worked rather well as I recall, lost it in a big move.

Been packing stuff up (not airplane stuff) and throwing a lot of stuff out. We plan to sell this place and then move to Leavenworth Kansas. A lot of hoops to jump thru to do that yet.

Anyway, work some on cleaning, fixing, and packing, and work some on planes.

I worked on an exhaust extension for the plane in my Avatar. a little bit over 2 or 3 days, and after years of the plane being an unfinished project, I cleared the biggest hurdle. I really think the extension will work. It has some paint issues to fix also.

I ordered off amazon several weeks ago some epoxy and a glue for the windshield of the P.A. It came in yesterday. So today I cleaned up the work bench and pulled the wing down. I cut 4 2" strips of 4 ounce fiberglass and a full size section (I think it was 11' by 11" square).

I now have a strip of glass over each dihedral joint. I used an old plastic card (bank or something) to spread a very thin but even coat of epoxy to stick the glass strips to and then added the strips and more epoxy that I then scrapped as thin as it would go.

I will do more work on the property and then some more time on the P.A. tomorrow. Both the top and bottom of the center wing section will be glassed. The dihedral joints will end up with the 2" strips over laid by a piece of glass covering the whole center section. Should be more than strong enough.

No pics, there really is nothing that would show up yet.

Then the cowling gets some glass on the inside. At that point I can move back to the Supersporster and pretty much do the same thing.

Ken
Old 04-24-2020, 07:10 PM
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Finished fiber glassing the wing center section. I also glass the removable part of the engine cowl The 2 bends towards the top got 2 layers of 4 ounce glass The wing dihedral joint have 2 layers as well, while the rest of the center section has just one.

My technique is to spread some epoxy around in the area I have previously marked. In this case very light pencil marks, and then partially erased with a ink eraser. Thees seem to disappear once the glass is applied. And since I am going to use transparent red they really need to. I then use a old bank plastic card (bank) and spread the epoxy around, making sure I have all of the area that will see glass covered. I the start scraping it off. I really scrape it off good. Then I lay my glass on it It sticks pretty good now. Get the glass positioned like I want it And then put more epoxy on. I spread it around good and add more to any spots that are not thoroughly wetted out. Those spots look white-ish. I use the card to really spread and work the epoxy in good. Then I scrape off all of the epoxy I can. You just got to keep working the glass with the card. By removing as much epoxy as I can I cut down on wight. It does really matter here. Epoxy is heavy. Once the epoxy is really good and cured I use a sharp blade to trim it. It trims easy. At this time I also cut any holes clear (wing bolt holes). Now it is ready for sanding. The glass has a lot of texture at this time because I scraped away so much epoxy. I used some 180 that had already been used some. I am only trying to remove the heavy part of the texture, don't want to cut the glass, just smooth it so it does not telegraph thru the covering. Also at this time any high spots, loose threads, just general good clean up.

I only trim the glass on the cowl inside. I did not get carried away scraping excess epoxy off, but I also did not leave any real excess. The cowl Is really stiff now. And I did check to make sure it still fits, Yep nicely.

I will cover the fire wall and the other part of the cowl that is permanently glued to the fuse with a light coat of epoxy tp fuel proof it

So that is all of the glassing.

I will weigh the wing just to see how much wight I added. I do not think very much, a few grams I think.

So now I need to add the windshield and at that point the plane will be ready to cover. I really can't think of any thing else after that, except fly it.

I am going to cover the plane with monokote. I did give some really serious thought to covering in silk. I checked Dharma Trading Co. for 5mm ("mm" means momme) white silk, It is in stock at $4.15 a yard (36" Wide). Not bad. But I would also need Nitrate dope, butyrate dope, both gloss clear and gloss white, and thinner. The other problem is I would need to pick up a decent air brush. Compressor I have 8 gallon. I am more than up to the work of silking, I silked my rc aiplanes years ago Although I used a paint brush not an air brush.

If I had gone the route of silk I would have dyed the silk red (lightly) in place of red transparent Monokote and then sprayed the red silk with gloss clear butyrate dope. This would have resulted in transparent red covering. Some would be painted white with white dope.

The cost of dope is the show stopper darn it. Have to watch the money a bit more now, one income down now.

Ken




Old 05-08-2020, 04:13 PM
  #66  
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I need to get back to the 2 builds (airplanes) I have going. I have the glue for the windshield and the plastic. The plane is ready fro the next step which is the windshield.

I have an order in for all I need to finish off the Pacific Ace and to take the Super Sporster to the ready to cover point. The S.S. will still need me to buy a battery, receiver, and servos, unless I rob another plane. I forgot to buy the nyrods for the elevator, and rudder control runs. So I can't close the bottom up till then on the S.S.

It is real slow now for orders to be filled and shipping is also slow

I am also working on a mostly non plane related project. Once done it will bee useful for transporting planes.

I have price shells before for my truck a Ford F250. Forget about it!!!!!!. So I am building my own. It won't be as slick or pretty as a factory made solution, just a few thousand $ cheaper. Even second hand shells are way to rich for my blood. If I could even find one to fit my truck. The bed box is a standard size on the inside, but the outside is wider being a super duty.

So I have the framing done done except for the roof framing. I have the sides, front and back sheets cut to size basically. I have left the front and back a little bit bigger at this time. I have the window opening for the driver side cut out. It did come out slightly looser fit than I desire. I will fill that. Will add some ply and fiberglass the fill. I waiting till I do that before cutting the passenger side window opening.

I also have an order in for epoxy, West Systems 105, A gallon of resin and 1/5 gallon of hardener (5:1 mix ratio, and three pumps. A pump for the resin and two hardener pumps. I only bought the slow hardener but will have a spare pump for a faster hardener later. That's they way the kit comes 3 pumps. The kit was not cheap and will be more epoxy than I need for glassing the shell. I also have 25 yards of fiberglass on order. Again I will have excess cloth, but it is 3.75 ounce, so will have airplane use later on.

I have been pushing hard every day, till I am just to worn out and back hurting to much to do any other work, like get this airplane past the next step.

It' is not often the wife says order whatever you need for a project. But that is what she did for this shell.

Ken
Old 05-17-2020, 08:50 PM
  #67  
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I got in some time on the P.A. today when I paused for a day or 2 on my other project. The other project is a camper shell for my pick up truck. I wanted to think something thru really well before I went down a path that I would regret with no way back. More on that later.

After I pulled the P.A. down I trimmed the glass on the cowl a bit. And then went to remount the engine I totally goofed when I epoxied the inside of the permanent cowl and fire wall. I forgot to plug the fire wall bolt holes for the motor mount. I t was not to bad, took about an hour to resolve.

Next I cut a new windshield / window piece, Cut it over sized, test fitted it an trimmed it down a bit, but still over sized a bit.

Thought that was a far as I would get today, but after dinner I went back out to work the plane some more. I really wanted to get the windshield / window glued on. I did. But it was a real struggle. Took 3 tries to finally get there. The glue is Formula 560 Canopy glue from Pacer. Fortunately water removes it just fine if you get at it right away. I used hot water and the failed attempts cleaned right off the plastic and the wood also. The wood is painted black so That has sealed the wood from a brief wash.

The danged plastic would slip on one side or other, or the top of the windshield below the wing section would bow away not making a good joint. I split pieces of wood to spread clamping pressure out front to back of the plastic. I used heavy T pins. They were really hard to get into the spruce framing and I mostly did not.

What I did do was run out of room for clamps. There really is no room for any more clamps, I got 'em, but had to force a top clamp to fit. I sure hope this works.

It now has to dry for 24 hours. Maybe I will give it 48.

The other project.

I had made a cover for the truck bed that was tri fold. It worked fine, but no vertical clearance for taller items.

Well we need to carry our mobility scooters , Need room for airplanes, and when we move to Kansas later this year we are going to need a shell. We will be able to carry a lot in a our travel trailer (27'), but still can't beat a shell.

So any way I started building the shell about two weeks ago. All of the framing is done and actually has been done for about a week now. Been working on the ply panels.

I bought a junked out shell 2 years ago for the windows for $50.

It won't be the lightest shell or even the prettiest. I made the sides straight up instead of angled the same as the upper half of the truck cab. That would have looked a heck of a lot better but would have been more challenge than I wanted to take on in the amount of time I have,

The shell will be glassed with 3.75 ounce fiber glass and West Systems 205 epoxy. I bought a gallon of resin, 3 pumps and 1/5 gallon of hardener. Also order 25 yards of glass 27" wide. Still waiting for the glass to come in.

The side windows and front windows are easy to cut out for. The darned back window is what I have to think about a day or 2 before I commit. The junk shell was for a compact older truck, so the window / lift gate is much smaller in width and height. If I framed in to fit the lift gate I would loose nearly a foot of vertical opening and 9" either side of opening. Not acceptable. What I think I may do is remove the glass from it's frame. This would be a one way operation, no way to undo it. But if I remove the glass then I can make a frame and recoup all of the lost opening that I would otherwise have, I can't think of anything else, but I want to think this over a couple of days.

My truck is a Ford f250 Super Duty diesel. The bed box inside is the same as a a F 150, but the the outside is wider, the cab is wider.

The front of the shell will be top of the cab height, and 6" more in the back.

Our flying field has been re opened, But until I get the shell on the truck I have no way to carry planes

Ken








The diagonal is temporary

It started to rain so I had to bring it into the garage

Last edited by flyingagin; 05-17-2020 at 09:10 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 05-18-2020, 05:05 PM
  #68  
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The weather report said more rain today, so I did not go get the last 3 sheets of ply I need for the shell. So while there was no rain I pushed the shell outside and worked on covering the P.A. tail feathers. It was a very comfortable temperature today so I worked with the garage door open. Judging by the thunder sounds, some one had a nice display of lightning. I didn't see it. But not a drop of rain here. Soon as the weather is clear I will get back to the shell, but in the meantime the P.A. is progressing.

I forgot just how hard curves are to Monokote, especially with transparent colors. Dang it. But I think they turned out OK. Wife sure thinks so.

Will remove the clamps from the fuse tomorrow. I am not liking how the windshield bottom front is. It should be tight against the fuse, that built up area that I intended to give more glue surface for the windshield. I may just wrap a narrow strip of fiber glass over the very base area of the windshield, a strip that overlaps both the fuse and windshield should relieve my worries about it.

Ken


There are some light artifacts in this pic




Makes a n interesting light filter
Old 05-19-2020, 08:38 PM
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I removed the clamps from the windshield today. That is all I got done on the plane. The bottom of the windshield were it joins the fuse seems to be a solid joint, but I think I will add a narrow strip of fiber glass there any way, just to be sure. A trick I learned when cutting fabric that is prone to fraying at the cut line is to spray it with hair spray first. Even the most annoying fabric will then behave it self.

I bought my last sheets of ply wood for the camper shell today and then proceeded to cut it all up. Now all panels are cut. All window openings are cut out. I bought a sanding wheel that chucks up in a drill. It has a bunch of emery cloth flaps on it it. Does a fantastic job of sanding straight and curved sections. Great precise control. If you want to split a pencil line. no problem. I Worked around 6 - 8 hours on the shell today. I am walking bent over my back hurts so much. That's why no progress on the plane.

I took my 2 days to think things over about the lift gate and still had no other solution than to remove the glass from the old lift gate. I will make my own frame for the glass. I have a decent amount of maple for that purpose.

But before I can work on anything tomorrow I have plumbing work to do again.

Ken


I still need to trim the plastic


The right most black section is where I will glass the windshield to the fuse. The glue is only gluing the very bottom of the windshield.
Old 05-20-2020, 06:45 PM
  #70  
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After I finished work on the shell yesterday I was hurting pretty bad. Long time going to sleep even after taking something for the pain. Today I was sore and and tired, so did not work on the shell.

Worked on the P.A instead. I glassed the front bottom of the windshield. Used maybe a 1' strip. Gave it a good spray of hair spray first. Cut really nice with no fraying like would normally get. I lightly sanded the part of the windshield where the glass was to go. I put a real thin layer of epoxy down first then the glass so it would stick where I wanted it to. Then I fully wet it out.

After the epoxy dried I work on cover the fuse. I have used transparent Monokote before but had forgotten how hard it is to do a good job. despite years of Monokoteing planes I only consider myself fair. Transparent is a real bugger to hide the seams.

I have the transparent red on. The rest of the fuse will be white.

Tomorrow I will get back to the shell. One more thing I can do till my fiber glass comes in. That is the frame for the lift gate window.

Ken






Old 05-28-2020, 11:21 AM
  #71  
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The fuse is finally ready to receive the tail feathers. Oh Yeah it's also covered.

I had to cut out small curved pieces of Monokote to fit all of the gussets. A real royal pain. They were easy to make but a son of a gun to cover. Then the all of the stringers were covered over with narrow strips of Monokote.

Ever thing was done from back to front.

Now I need to cover the wing. It will be the same red the fuse has.

I have been working for short periods in the garage with 2 fans running. Some times that means watching a small piece that I had just made do a Gone With The Wind. Yeah that was bad, but i couldn't help myself.

My knee has been much improved this week. Enough so that I dared to get on the roof to remove what was left of the old antenna I had built. And the install the new one. I found my fear of heights was a lot worse. Maybe because I know I am not as good on my feet anymore, much more prone to fall. But I sucked it up and pressed thru. Yeah I have to get up there and take it down when we move, but it is as it is. I had to time my roof time for the least sun. We are in the middle of a heat wave, triple digits.

Ken








This is the antenna I built about 4 years ago. Work well. 97% signal strength. But the plastic stand offs sun rotted. Actually 3 antennas. 2 loop antennas for vhf and the big lower is for UHF.
Old 05-28-2020, 06:06 PM
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I forgot to add to the last post,that as I covered the fuse sometimes I would have a small piece of Monokote or once balsa that I trimmed would find it way into the fuse and then to the windshield and stick to it. The 2 fans that was using to avoid melting like butter did not help,but I had to have them on. I would spot them and work them out. But when the fuse was completely covered I spotted a very small piece of white 'kote stuck to the windshield right at the very top between the plastic and the fixed leading edge that the windshield is glued to. When I tried to get it out with a balsa hook it just trapped even harder. But when I put a strip of fiber glass and 'kote that it should hid.

Stab and vertical fin are epoxied on. The elevator and rudder or just stuck on, not yet glued. Got to pick up some thin super glue first. Businesses will be able to open real soon, so I will get some then.

I have on finale area I want to fiberglass. The very top of the windshield. Just a very narrow strip over the top wrapping around the fixed leading edge., just to make sure the spot is sealed and can't open up. I will then Monokote over the glass strip.

Ken






Old 05-31-2020, 05:05 PM
  #73  
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It is covered!

Still a bit more Monokote work to do yet, But it is covered.

Those elliptical wing tips were pure hell to cover. The bottom not so bad, but the top, holy cow!

And I found a unpleasant mistake with the stab. I cover one side and then worked the other side around it to get a good seal. Then I cot away the kote for the vertical fin and the epoxy glue area to join it to the fuse. I BLOODY REVERED THE BOTTOM AND TOP SIDES!!. Now how the trim in is on the top. I will add a piece of trim to hide it as best as I can. A really stupid mistake. I did not write top and bot on the stab because of the transparent covering, it would have shown. I should have used masking tape to track top and bottom. Better yet I just should have checked before Cut away the kote.

The local hobby shop was open Friday. So I got thin ca and more 1/8 music wire. So the hinges are now glued in. I will bend some new landing gear. Not happy with the looks of what's on there now. I have a bunch of metal cloths hangers. I will use those for templates. The wheel hubs were at some point drilled out to take bolts for aluminum gear. They were radical wobble city on the 1/8" wire. I used 2 sizes of aluminum tube to adapt. One over the axle and then the next size up over that, and then the wheels. Works fine now and a darn site cheaper than buy new wheels.

Need to work on my truck shell now. I can't transport planes with out now. The fiber glass should arrive late this coming week.

Ken






Old 06-01-2020, 02:17 PM
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Was going to work on my shell today. But the sweat was just dripping off of me. Save that task for tomorrow morning. I did measure the circumference of all of the windows, 85 feet both inside and outside for all 4 windows. Found a 5 pack of Dicor Butyl Seal Tape, 150 feet for $36. Bought it.

But sense I had the truck out of the driveway I took some pics of the P.A on it's feet in the driveway.

I will do some more on the plane this evening after it cools down..

Ken









Old 06-03-2020, 06:09 PM
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Spent a couple of hours doing detail work on the P.A. today. It was really hot out there. I had 2 fans blowing on me. As long as I was right in the breeze form them it was tolerable.

I linked up the rudder and elevator. Needed some trick mild bends to get a smooth link to the rudder. Shallow enough bends that it will not flex under flight loads. I am normally loath to add bends for that reason, but this should be OK.

From the pic it looks like the tail wheel strut may need to be bent a bit. I always test before the test flight by rolling it in the drive way to see what it does.

The one other thing I did was trim the windshield top to wing leading edge with some white Monokote. I mad it 3 layers thick. I did that vice glassing it. I still would have needed to add the white trim. The 3 layers of kote will reinforce that joint a bit and make darn sure it sealed against fuel.

The one other thing i did today was was take a painfull fall. And to add insult to injury the shell I am building fell on me after I was on the concrete and then laid on me while I was hollering for help. I am OK. Scrapes, bruised a bit and sore.

I was moving it to the middle of the driveway and tripped and fell. While I was going down I pulled the shell over on me (it was on it's side). I did manage to block it with my arm. Scared the crap out of me. I was stubborn and pressed on with working on it for a little while. Got one thing done, and then I was getting sick from the heat. I knew better than to try and do that kind of work wearing sandals (flip flops). I think that was a big contributor.

I was lucky. My head did not it the driveway, so at least I don't have to fix a cracked driveway.
Name:  rolleyes.gif
Views: 50
Size:  1.0 KB I chuckling a bit now. Strange thing, on the way down I saw the shell coming down on top of me. I still have this image in my head of the shell (looked bigger than it actually is) coming straight down on me. I had this super fast thought "this is gonna hurt". Funny what the mind can take in in a fraction of a second.

I'm 67, 68 in a few months. Don't need to be doing this sort of nonsense. Name:  smiley35.gif
Views: 44
Size:  652 Bytes

Ken


At least this hides that piece of white Monokote sliver that got loose and I could not get out




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