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Super Strikemaster

Old 02-18-2004, 07:12 PM
  #26  
MrMulligan
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Default RE: The wood pile for 3 prototypes arrive

That is really looking good! I'm really enjoying this thread. I remember living in a small apartment when I built mine and being almost ankle deep in shavings as I shaped the fuselage. Thanks.
Old 02-18-2004, 07:44 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: The wood pile for 3 prototypes arrive

Thank you MrMulligin for you kind words>>>>Seems Don will have a picture for you that will bring back some fond memories <g>

Pete
Old 02-18-2004, 09:38 PM
  #28  
hattend
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Default Man, I could build another plane from the shavings

ORIGINAL: MrMulligan

That is really looking good! I'm really enjoying this thread. I remember living in a small apartment when I built mine and being almost ankle deep in shavings as I shaped the fuselage. Thanks.

You mean like this? Interestingly, that is from rough carving of the nose and canopy (notice the rear of the fuse hasn't been touched...LOL)

Don
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Old 02-18-2004, 09:48 PM
  #29  
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Default Fuselage pieces

Back to fuselage pictures:

#1 and #2 shows the firewall reinforcement tri-stock and the engine/Fults nosegear attachment

#3 and #4 shows the basic airframe on the gear...hardly looks like an OS .91, does it? This is a big airplane.

Don
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Old 02-18-2004, 09:55 PM
  #30  
hattend
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Default Nose blocks are going on

The whole nose is made up of a lot of wood blocks. These blocks are glued onto the firewall and then sanded to shape.

The pictures here shows the "before sanding" shots of the nose area.

Don
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:02 PM
  #31  
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Default RE: Nose blocks rough sanded

This is after the rough carving and sanding I used a spare 3.5" spinner as the template to get the nose shape right.

#1 shows the engine mount area. Note some more tri-stock under the engine mount as the wood on the side of the nose was getting pretty thin as I sanded the sides down. It has plenty of heft in there now...good and solid.

#2 and #3 shows the side and top view

#4 is the fuselage completely roughed out, just needs some final sanding

Don
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:10 PM
  #32  
hattend
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Default Horner tips

Peter and I were talking over some of the modifications we would be making to the Super Strikemaster. I have always liked Horner wingtips and have them on quite a few of my airplanes so I decided to go for it on the Super Strikemaster.

Sure it's a lot of carving work, but they sure do look cool when they're done.

Pic #1 is the rought cut and then the other 3 are the finish product...came out pretty nice.

Don
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:17 PM
  #33  
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Default wing fairings

After glassing the center section you have to build in some wing fairing to make the whole thing "flow".

Here are the wing fairings after the rough sanding. I have since filled in the area with Sig Epoxolite and balsa filler.

Don
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:27 PM
  #34  
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Default Tail group

And finally (until I take some more pictures) here is the tail group. We modified the plane in this area as well by putting a cap on the ends to give the plane a more modern appearance. The stabs are also made of a balsa/ply composite- a 1/4" balsa stabilizer core with 1/16" plywood laminated on both sides. It's very stiff but it's also quite heavy, so with the third prototype I'll be going with 1/32" ply and will also cut some lightening holes on the balsa core.

Don
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:45 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: Tail group

Thanks Don Now for the last two set's of four for now: 1) Starting to shape the front nose cone Thanks to Don the front end also sport's a NEW Super Tigre .90G ( more spec's on the SSM later) 2) Almost done the nose 3) I also used a blank 3.5 nose cone for shape. When I pondered how I was going to cut in the shape of the prop in the cone I by chance used a 2.5 cone that had the shape ready made and put it on the inside of the 3.5 then outlined the cut The final cut was SPOT on for the prop it works try it.
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:53 PM
  #36  
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Default Need to know stuff

We used a few venders to get the materials needed to bring these oversized Strikemasters into being.

Wood:

Balsa USA - http://www.balsausa.com/
Lone Star Balsa - http://www.lonestar-models.com

Main Landing Gear: TnT Landing Gear: http://www.tntlandinggear.com/

Foam Wings: Dynamic Balsa: http://www.dbalsa.com/ ask for the "Super Strikemaster" core

Wing Decal: http://www.customcutgrafix.com/

All the other stuff was bought either from Great Hobbies in Canada (http://www.greathobbies.com/) or at Tower Hobbies in the USA (http://www.towerhobbies.com/)

Special Thanks to RCM and Jim Newman

====

Back to building
Old 02-18-2004, 10:58 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: Tail group

Now for the unveiling of the Proto #2 in color >>> I still have to balance yet and set all the flight control throws....there are some small items that also need to be done but I do have another 2 months of dog sledding before the snow will be cleared on the strip.

Don and I are still working on the over all Spec's of the SSM and are putting the finishing touches to the wood list as well.
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Old 02-18-2004, 11:35 PM
  #38  
MrMulligan
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Default RE: RE: Nose blocks rough sanded

Really, really looking good! Loved the shavings picture.
Old 02-19-2004, 09:33 AM
  #39  
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Default General Spec's for the SSM

Here are the General spec's for the SSM. There will be more fleshed out spec's after Don has completed Proto #1 along with #2 >>>as to the test flights? <<<< well we both still have 2 months of winter for sure BUT Don may get his in the air sooner right Don?

Super Strikemaster

Original Designed By: Jim Newman
“Super” Modes By: Don Hatten & Peter Kelly

Plan Size: 25% increase over stock
Fuse Length: 54in
Wing Span: 68.5in
Wing Area w/Horner Tips: 925 sq in
Weight 8 to 10 Lbs
Engine Size: .60 to .90 2 stroke

Speed Brake Doors set to open to 35 degree's on #2
Flaps or Flaperons (Flaps on #1) (Flaperons on #2)
Vee Tail F18 Style #2
Strakes
E6-E style Fin Tip Cap
Aluminum or Composite Landing Gear
Reinforced Tail Cone
Dihedral on #1 (3 degree) on #2 (1 degree)

Again the above information still needs to be refined.

We would love to hear from all that visit this thread with comments or helpful suggestions ( never to late to make a change )

Pete
Old 02-19-2004, 07:09 PM
  #40  
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Default shot from the front

Nice to see it covered from wood to cover >>>come on Don post some more!!!
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Old 02-23-2004, 02:59 PM
  #41  
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Default Another Strikemaster version

I've held on to the original RCM "Strikemaster" article since it arrived in my mailbox years ago. I just never got around to building one until now. I'm building mine around a 90mm EDF with a Hacker B50L brushless motor. I've designed intakes at the sides of the fuse' under the leading edges and may have to reduce the fuse' taper to the rear for the sake of fan efficiency. My wing and tail group will be built-up to save weight. I'll be using a catapult launch, so landing gear isn't needed. That'll leave more room in the nose for a 20 cell "gas tank". If you're interested, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thom
Colorado
Old 02-23-2004, 03:31 PM
  #42  
hattend
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Default RE: Another Strikemaster version

I'd like to see and hear how it works out as an electric. Put the pics up here or start an "Electric Strikemaster" thread. Any publicity for this great flying airplane, in whatever iteration, is always good.

My next one is going to be similar to Pete's and the third one is going to be a twin.

Don
Old 02-24-2004, 05:21 PM
  #43  
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Default RE: Another Strikemaster version

Just to fill in until Don has more pictures to post (soon) maybe by this weekend if he get's at it

Side view with Full flap and speed brake door open.

Pete

Proto #2
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Old 02-28-2004, 11:01 AM
  #44  
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Default weight and balance

As I looked over the pictures I had taken along the way, I had a look at the picture of it sitting at the balance of C/G which I had measured at the nose wheel location to be 8 1/4" ( from the bottom of the fuse to the table top) and the same measurement was found aft of the main gear before the incline to the tail cone. This would tell me that SSM was in a level state at least to the table top and was in balance.

Hmmmm then I looked at the second picture of the flaperon's at full deflection and speed brake doors open to 35 degree's >>>>> Would this cause a weight shift I asked myself? ( no one else was in the room at the time ) Soooo i reset the SSM on the make shift balance stand ....remeasured to make sure I had the same 8 1/4" and it was. I then deployed flap to full and opened the brake doors and waited for it to rebalance ....... tick tick tick ..... I remeasured and yep it had shift the weight forward of the C/G by 1/8 ( measured at the nose location ... what this works out to in weight i have not figured out yet).

Now by NO means am I a master builder (just a saw hammer kind of guy) or student of aerodynamics so this little test above opened my eyes to the fact that the flight controls may do more then what one may think to effect flight.

My question is: Has anyone else come a cross effects that are transparent to what the main idea would be?
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Old 02-29-2004, 01:02 AM
  #45  
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Default Pin Hinging under Monokote

Okay, I started monokoting my Prototype #1 and hoped to get it done by this weekend but HOLY COW...I can't get anything done. I can't believe how many interruptions I had today.

So, anyway...instead of getting all the way to having the fuselage at least halfway done by the end of toady I only got as far as hinging the stabs. If you have always wondered how to monokote over a plastic pinned hinge, here is a synopsis of the technique

#1 - We see that the hinges are dry installed. I use Goldberg/Klett steel pin hinges but this will work with any other plastic hinge. Notice that I have ironed on a small strip of monokote that wraps around the control surface at the hingeline. This provides a surface for the main covering to "grab" onto when the hinging is complete and you start covering the model. As a long time monokote guru once told me, nothting sticks to monokote like monokote and I have found that truism to be correct.

#2 - Using a 1/16" drill bit drill one hole through the control surface AND the meat of the hinge.

#3 - Tilt the surface up so the thin CA will wick away from the hingeline. This isn't too critical as there is plenty of wood material between the hole and the hinge but I do this so if I accidently use too much CA in the hole it won't run down into the hinge.

#4 - Using medium CA, glue a round toothpick into the hole.
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Old 02-29-2004, 01:12 AM
  #46  
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Default RE: Pin Hinging under Monokote

To continue

#5 - Quite the little forest of toothpicks growing out of our control surface.

#6 - Using an Xacto saw, cut the toothpick off as flush to the surface as you can get it

#7 - Sand any little bit that is sticking up down to the control surface. It doesn't matter if you tear or scuff the monokote in this step as the next step you will be laying a new piece over the strip of monokote all the way down to the hingeline.

#8 - This is the completed control surface. The hinge is pinned to the control surface and if you take your time sanding the toothpicks down it is invisible. If you have any questions about this hinging method, post them here. I have been hinging this way for 20 years and I have yet to have a hinge fail on me...they are strong and they are very free moving. Give it a try.


I think I will leave my computer off and my phone unplugged tomorrow...I really want to get at least started on the fuselage and have it mostly complete by tomorrow night (I'll post pictures)
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Old 03-03-2004, 02:33 PM
  #47  
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Default RE: Pin Hinging under Monokote

While we wait for Mr. Hatten to finish covering his Proto # 1 ( by this weekend Don???), I have finished my final balance and setting of the flight controls. Would anyone care to guess what the final WEIGHT of the SSM proto#2 is???

If no one is close in the next few post I will give the wing-loading and you can work with that and the other info I have given in the previous post

Pete
Proto #2
Old 03-09-2004, 02:11 PM
  #48  
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Default RE: Another Strikemaster version

ORIGINAL: Mistral

I've held on to the original RCM "Strikemaster" article since it arrived in my mailbox years ago. I just never got around to building one until now. I'm building mine around a 90mm EDF with a Hacker B50L brushless motor. I've designed intakes at the sides of the fuse' under the leading edges and may have to reduce the fuse' taper to the rear for the sake of fan efficiency. My wing and tail group will be built-up to save weight. I'll be using a catapult launch, so landing gear isn't needed. That'll leave more room in the nose for a 20 cell "gas tank". If you're interested, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thom
Colorado
Thom,

Any updates? Building photos?
\
Don
Old 03-18-2004, 01:41 PM
  #49  
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Default Uh oh, now what?

The Super Strikemaster was so much fun, why not something different?

LOL
Don
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Old 03-29-2004, 05:02 PM
  #50  
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Default RE: Uh oh, now what?

Well Ok Don I know you have the Fuse Covered ....What about the wing Hmmmmmm and when do we get to see the Finished SSM

Come on it's almost spring and I want my Beer

Pete

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