Redwulf__34

I've got a little more money in from Christmas and I just may be able to afford another tool! A band saw would be a little more versitile for doing projects other than model airplanes. If I can cut the bends with it. I've never spent much time with a band saw so I don't really know what they are capable of. Most of the radius pieces in models (like wing ribs) are balsa. If hardwood has a radius its not usually much. I'm wondering if I can get away with a band saw and a disc sander for building models? I've got about $150-$200 to spend.

meaden

Band saw.

I have a 9" Delta (about $100) I use mine all the time for building planes and other stuff. It can cut all the curves you need for a plane plus thin plywood quickly and thicker pieces of stock. With some practice you can freehand some decent straight cuts too. The trick is to anchor it to a solid table and use the right blade for the job.

Hydro Junkie

I would also recommend going and getting some cheap wood and practicing with whichever saw you buy for several hours BEFORE attempting to cut out parts for your projects. Meaden gave some good info, but I would like to add that it's very easy to break a thin blade on a tight radius turn, so you really need to learn how to use relief cuts. They can make the difference between scrapped or good parts as well as good or broken blade

BMatthews

For pure model building I've changed my tune a while ago and would recomend a nicer scroll saw. One where the beams are properley designed to move the blade forward in the cutting stroke and back on the lift. It's all in the arcs of the travel so it's not a big deal and all the $150 to $250 and up models should have that factor designed in.

However if you also want to use this saw for woodworking projects just as much as model building then I really suggest a bandsaw. And if you have the room a used 14 incher would be far better than a new 10 inch or 12 inch. But the cheap ones can have other issues that make them less than fun to use. You want to see good rigid and strong wheels, a nicely arc profiled pair of tires on the wheels and an easy to access and use guide block assembly on both the upper and lower guides. Some of the cheap imports fail miserably in these areas and the machines would be a constant source of frustration. But some of the imports are quite decent for only $25 more than the next lower down one that is a bucket of junk. Unfortunetly it's hard to really show you this stuff without being there.

But in the end I think it's safe to say that you'll get a far better quality scroll saw for that much money than you will a band saw. So it might be best to go for the affordable quality and save for a GOOD bandsaw for later. Up here I can buy an acceptable bandsaw used from one of the import places for around $400. Down in the US I'd guess that this would be in the $300 to $350 range.

Redwulf__34

Thanks Bruce, I've pretty much decided to go with a band saw. I'm gonna keep my eyes open at auctions for a "good ole" used one. We have a weekly auction here. Hopefully I can find one there. I expect I'll use it as much for general woodworking as I will model building. Probably about a 50/50 mix.

I received a post on a different thread about using the band saw for models. Seems it will cut the radius I need. I may however take some more time and add some cash to it and go for a better saw. Unless of course something pops up locally at an auction.

I do agree with you if I were purely using it to build models the scroll saw would be the way to go. But like I said it will probably be 50/50 for me right now.

Thanks!

Redwulf

kdc

I much prefer a scrollsaw to a small bandsaw for aero modelling. At the moment scrollsaws seem extremely cheap (here in England ) at about £35($70 )and are similar to one I bought years ago for 3 times the price. So I would advise buying a scrollsaw if you can find one for that sort of price.

Wait until you find a substantial 2 wheel bandsaw at a good price.

BMatthews

For special cases you can get bandsaw blades as narrow as 1/8 inch. I can't imagine needing something more narrow for most work.

Also since you're steering towards a larger woodworking style bandsaw be sure to look up how to tune the saw to the blade. It's critical that each time you install a new blade that you back off the guides and set the tension and tracking and only then align all the guides to the blade.

I've got a "Ye Olde Tyme" cast iron beast from the 30's or 40's. It's about a 600 lb brute but it doesn't walk around much... When set up right and taking into account the setup's preferred cut skew angle I have been able to cut salami slices of 1/8 thick by 8 inches wide off planks of close grain cedar, spruce and black walnut for some music instrument making I got into years ago.

A well setup bandsaw is truly a joy to use.

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

It may sound nuts but Harbor Freight has a good 14" bandsaw.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32208

get the upgrade roller blade guides and a good blade from Suffolk machine.

It's the same basic saw as the Ridgid 14"..
You can order lots of parts for the Ridgid saw and bolt em on the HF like the quick trension release and the riser block.

there some good info in the saw at www.bt3central.com

I have a Hitachi 13" bandsaw.. Lowes put em on clearence for $125 last year.. killer deal.

I'd like to also get a Scroll saw.. The only downside to the Bandsaw I've found is that I can't do inside cuts for formers and lightened ribs.

Helijack

You know, I have both, use both.

Scroll saw is great for cutting formers or something where you have to cut out the center and keep the outer....can't do that on a band saw.
Scroll saw has much tighter turning radius.

Band saw is faster. Band saw can be used for a quick "cut this little piece off" much better than a scroll saw.

Band saw will cut with more depth.

Do not forget a good drill press and a good bench belt sander. All of the above I use at least one of every day I build. I NEED all 4, none of them are high end pieces of equipment, Delta and Royobi....we aren't talking professional needs here, this is hobby.

Of course then there is the metal lathe. That is a handy tool, not used too much......

I have too many tools.
Jack

Redwulf__34

Jack, What kind of a bench sander are you using? I've got a whole list of tools I need.......or should I say want. Everytime I bring up my list of tools my wife bring up her list of furniture!!!!! I did tell her we can double our bang for the buck if I just buy tools and build furniture! Except I married a smart woman. She keeps saying you'll just build airplanes! [X(]

Redwulf

Rodney

If you get a band saw, steer away from the three wheel units. They are much more difficult to keep in alignment and harder on blades (frequent breakage) than the two wheel bandsaws are. Do get good blades, use as wide a blade as practicle for most cuts. The only time you want a narrow blade is for tight radius cuts. I have both, a 16 inch bandsaw and a very good scroll saw. The scroll saw gets very little use as the band saw is so much more versatile. No matter how good the bandsaw is, you will have trouble making very precise long straight cuts, for that a table saw is almost mandatory. The wider the blade, the better the straight cuts will be.

simark

My Feedback: (12)

I have a three wheel unit ("C" frame) and yes they are harder to align at first but like every other tool in a well maintained shop, there is always a setup and calibration before the tool can be or should be used. The advantage of the C frame is that it offers a 16" throat clearance, something you won't get in a two wheel model without spending a wack of money. This is largely irrelevant in modelling but can be very useful in furniture building.

If one becomes available and you do think you need the throat clearance, get a model with larger wheels. "C" frames are hard on thicker blades because the wheels are smaller diameter, but the larger models are OK. I have the 16" Delta and never had many problems, mainly because I did take the time to set it up. They use to come up used quite often, but now are harder to get.

If you think that you may resaw wood once in a while, then I recommend a larger two wheel job. The resaw blades a quite large and you will need the resaw attachments. As far as I know, they are only available for two wheel models.

I use a small shop belt sander a lot in both modelling and woodworking.

Another thing that should be near the top of your list is a good dust collecting system and air filters.

As for a scroll saw, in the last 6 years, mine has been used maybe twice.

Helijack

I have the Royobi 4" bench sander and the Royobi Scroll saw. Have an older Delta (3-wheel). Was thinking on making a surface around the bench sander........for a different hobby.

simhatus

Hi

I have a burgess bk mkIII bandsaw with which i find very usful for cutting spars, lots of similar parts at the same time such as ribs fuz sides, or most other components.

What i do want is fence to go on the right of the blade to make triangle section easier to cut as currently i have to hold the wood up to the fence on the left to do this, does anyone know where i can get one.

Havn't used a scroll saw much but would like one if only to cut the middle out of servo trays.

Simon

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Wulf:

If you can only get one, get the scroll saw. I've built planes from at least 25 sets of plans, and I can't think of a single time a bandsaw would have made it easier or faster. I routinely cut 1/2" oak ply formers on my iddlebiddle scroll saw.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

I have used my scroll saw forever and love it.but I also own and use a band saw.there instances when the band saw is better for me ..I wouldnt recoomend any band saw without a fence.mine also does miter cuts.hey there are other reasons to have both!I am getting more involved with scratch building as well as flying arf's.what the heck being retired I have the time to devote to the hobby.I think the scroll saw overall will be the more used tool for cutting ribs and other curved parts.

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Suggestion from an old retired cabinetmaker.

Do youirself a favour and go to a PAWN SHOP You can probably find BOTH and I have yet to find ONE pawn shop that wouldn't barter. Especially if you ar planning to spend that kinf of $$$!

PAWN SHOP owners oly pay abou 10% of the going market rate for anything they have. They will -- without a doubt -- jack up the price to about 50% of the market value.


TAKE 'em down!

I within the past year alone bout two routers, all kinds of carbide router bits, a self igniting propane gun, a small compressor, and the list goes on

Keep one thing in mind though, KNOW what you are looking for. KNOW yo0ur product and what its worth on the open marketplace.

With all that I bought, I spent less than $150

Best of luck

marwen1

Redwulf__34

Marwen,
I never thought of trying a Pawn Shop. That's a great idea! I don't live in a huge city. We only have one Pawn Shop that I'm aware of and the last time I was in it they mosty had old cowboy hats and horse riding equiptment. But I'll go take a look.

Thanks!

Wulf

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Then my guess is that it's worth the time & effort to make a trip to a somewhat, larger town.

Best of luck to you.

marwen1

fishbonesep

A band saw will cut all of the curves you need. The difference is that with a scroll saw you can take one end of the blade loose and insert it into a starter hole to cut curves inside a piece of wood. With the band saw you can't do that. Usually you don't do the inside work on airplane parts, although I did do some fancy work to the inside of a fuselage former to leave material for a throttle cable.

Bish Wheeler

I just tossed my old three wheel Craftsman 10" band saw. I had it for about 12 years and it always was a pain in the butt. The three wheel configuration is just one wheel too many and it gives you constant head aches. I replaced it with a 10" Two Wheel Royobi from Home Depot. I think it cost around $110 and it works great. I use a 1/4 inch blade for most every thing. I have an 1/8 " blade too, but have yet to try it. THe Royobi comes with a goose neck light and a window through which you can view the blade "tracking". Should have tossed the three wheel Craftsman years ago!

Rick W

My Feedback: (20)

Hi Guys,

Just bought a Sears 10 inch Bandaw and it's without doubt the best best saw ever. I had a Delta with the standard cool blocks and rear bearing setup. Could not keep it in adjustment. The Sears saw did away with the cool blocks and used bearings in their place. Very easy to set up and it stays in adjustment. OUTSTANDING!!!

Go to Sears and check them out. I use 1/8 inch blades most of the time and the tracking with the Sears is fantastic.

And No, I don't work for Sears I just like to pass on a good thing.. only $119.00 on Craftsman days. Usually $139.00.

Rick

The FBI knows me as the "TOOLMAN"

Redwulf__34

Thanks Rick,
I was looking at that one. I like Craftsman stuff.

Redwulf

elcam84

My Feedback: (2)

The current large table saws and bandsaws form sears are much better quality than they used to be. Sears has had and still has a bad reputation for junk powertools.
The Table saws and some other tools are made by Orion which is made up of ex Delta and Powermatic employees.(they also sell under the name Steel City now)

The bandsaws are nearly identical to Rikon and Yukon. The Rikon is more expensive but it has an aluminum table where as the sears one has a cast iron table.

I have the larger bandsaw and am very happy with it. I paid $200 for it on sale. The only bad part is the guide bearings are poor quality. The larger saws use a standard size bearing which happens to be the same as a roller skate bearing. I don't know what size the 10" saw uses.

Get some good blades for it from Olsen or Suffolk machinery.

saramos

I got myself a Craftsmen 10" band saw for christmas. I've already used it far more than the scroll saw I got 3 years ago. I really enjoy working with this saw. The blade tracks well and adjusting the blade and guides are a snap. There are two issues with it though. First, it uses an odd size blade of 70 1/2 inch (and my local Sears doesn't stock them!). Second, the mechanism for tilting the table is really poor, It is just a saddle and rocker assembly that are cast iron and simply tightened by a bolt and threaded knob. The adjustment is rough, and maintaining accurate parallel alignment with the blade is not assured and needs to be checked after each tilting of the table.

Scott