oleo struts?
 

I am scratch building a 1/4 scale fairchild 22 and I would like to know if anyone out there could tell me how to construct a working set of oleo struts; Any help would be welcome

oleo struts?
 

Robart makes them. Look them up on robart.com

Think that is the right address.

oleo struts
 

thanks flyboy but I would like to make them myself maybe out of brass or aluminum tubes maybe spring loaded or something. They dont have to be scale just something that looks good and works

oleo struts?
 

There's a one time publication called "Giant Steps" that you may be able to find online if it's still in print.

In it, one of the articles covers how to make your own oleo struts from scratch. In this case, they discussed it with regard to making them for a 1/3 scale Emeraude but it isn't difficult to modify as necessary.
This is probably what you're looking for because the assemblies consist of a spring loaded tube inside an outer tube and incorporates the necessary retainer stops as well as the scissors assembly to keep the wheels pointed in the right direction.

Highflight

Add Edit: Here 'ya go. It is out of print but I did a quick search and found you a used copy at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...613383-4334532

oleo struts?
 

thanks Highflight that looks like just what I am looking for I have ordered it and will keep you posted Thanks Again

oleo struts?
 

Glad I could help, bipe. I have my own copy of Giant Steps and even after all these years, I STILL pick it up and re-read some of the articles.

I would additionally like to offer a little Fairchild story of my own.
Many years ago (early 80's?), I bought the 1/4 scale Fairchild 22 kit from Tower Hobbies. It was probably one of the last kits made by Simcoe/Orline before they closed the doors. Tower was selling off the last of the kits they had in stock at a discount.

I built it and loved it to death and still would like to build another, perhaps the Ikon kit, but haven't gotten around to it.
I lost my Orline Fairchild 22 on it's 3rd flight, I'm reasonably sure, because of a basic design flaw rather than my building expertise.
As you know, several wires that attach to the wings, and landing gear wires, all come together at what looks like a bullet. It was a chunk of rounded steel that all those wires were silver-soldered to.

I think the vibration of the gas engine was more than the design could handle, and one of the critical wing wires simply broke about a quarter of an inch from where it was welded into the bullet. If you've ever gone dove hunting, you have an idea of how quick the Fairchild folded up into a ball and hit the dirt. A real heartbreaker. (Probably for doves, too <g>)

That might be an area you will want to pay particular attention to in your Fairchild 22. What really annoyed me was how much time I had spent aligning all those wires so that the wing ended up properly aligned.

I remember thinking at the time how clever I thought the oleo struts were designed in the kit what with the springs and stops etc. all supplied in the kit. They worked great but didn't do much to soften the final impact.

Highflight

Shock absorbing LG
 

I have made some very effective shock absorbing landing gear using R/C car shocks. I have used them on a TigerKitten and on a 9.3 pound Astro Hog. I now have no bounce landings. Not exactly scale but nice looking and these work! I submitted this idea and it appears in the May 2003 issue of Model Airplane News in their "Tips & Tricks"
In this photo the front LG wire(On the left) pivots in the LG block in the wing. The wire on the top of the shock is fixed in it's LG block in the wing.

Oleo Struts
 

bipe2,
I've made a couple of sets for 1/4 scale models, and they work very well. Here's now I make them:

I make the inner tube from 1/4" stainless tube. The lower end is drilled for a 4-40 bolt, and the upper end has a 1/4" long sleeve silver soldered onto it, made from the next two sizes of brass tube, with a small brass sheet cap to cover the end.

The outer tube is made from brass tube that is three sizes bigger than the 1/4" inner tube, so that the sleeved end of the lower tube will fit inside it. Solder a 3/8" long sleeve into the lower end of the outer tube using the next two sizes down. This forms a shoulder on the inside of the tube, so that when the inner tube is slid into the outer tube and brought to full extension, the two shoulders meet, and stop the inner tube from falling out.

To complete the upper end of the outer tube, solder a 3/8" long brass tube doubler onto the outside of the tube.

Then I make the removable top fitting from a piece of 1/4" dia mild steel rod. It's about 3/4" long with a mounting hole drilled through it for a 4-40 bolt at the top end, and a 3/8" long sleeve sleeve soldered onto the lower end, from two sizes of brass tube. This fitting will now slip fit into the top end of the outer tube, and can be drilled through for a 4-40 retainer bolt.

Now, you can go to the hardware store and find the biggest dia spring that will fit inside the outer tube. You will have to experiment with spring lengths to get the correct amount of pre-load. Load the spring, and bolt the top fitting into place. Bolt to the landing gear fittings on the model with 4-40 bolts.

If you go to my gallery and look at the Monosport, you can see these struts in use.

I hope this description is sufficient...Good Luck!

Cheers, Nigel :)