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Your first thoughts on FlyZone's new SeaWind?

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Your first thoughts on FlyZone's new SeaWind?

Old 03-10-2016, 10:31 AM
  #126  
Cpdalpiaz
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Sorry, gear and flaps are on separate switches. Gear on ch 5 and gear switch with plus/minus 50% throw. Flaps on ch6 and flap switch with 120% up and 80% down because of difficulty in connecting push/pull wires to servo arm. I didn't send the flaps all the way down yet. The gear and flaps operate independently.
Old 03-11-2016, 05:31 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Cpdalpiaz
Sorry, gear and flaps are on separate switches. Gear on ch 5 and gear switch with plus/minus 50% throw. Flaps on ch6 and flap switch with 120% up and 80% down because of difficulty in connecting push/pull wires to servo arm. I didn't send the flaps all the way down yet. The gear and flaps operate independently.
That's pretty much like mine is. I'm charging my batteries now. Today looks like it could be the day for the maiden flight!
Old 03-11-2016, 12:12 PM
  #128  
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Got in two flights today. The wind was still pretty gusty. I flew the Ares a few times first then went for it with the Seawind. I had a lot of problems with it porpoising but managed to get it on the ground with a couple of hard bounces. 2nd flight the landing was too hard and collapsed the nose gear and the prop took a chunk out of the fuselage...OUCH. I should have followed the recommendation to do a few gear up landings in the grass. Now to go order a new nose landing gear assembly.
Old 03-11-2016, 11:42 PM
  #129  
Charley
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Aw shucks, Smitty......Sorry.

Better check & see if the fuse is still straight.

CR
Old 03-12-2016, 09:45 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Charley
Aw shucks, Smitty......Sorry.

Better check & see if the fuse is still straight.

CR
I think I let the airspeed get to slow while I was trying to correct the porpoising. The chunk out of the fuselage from the prop strike shouldn't be too difficult to repair.

I'm having a difficult time seeing what's what in the nose gear compartment. It looks like on the left side the steering arm has a little brass bushing on it that rolls in a track. I don't think the gear is extending all the way. There is some movement in it so maybe a screw is partially pulled out up inside someplace. Not quite sure how to get in there yet. The horns broke off the nose wheel doors and the spring is gone. They are not on the replacement parts list so I'll have to contact someone and see how I go about replacing them. Certainly they wouldn't have me buy a whole new fuselage! We'll see.
Old 03-12-2016, 10:03 AM
  #131  
tailskid
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You can remove the square plastic part on the top of the fuselage to get a better look at the nose gear.
Old 03-14-2016, 03:08 PM
  #132  
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I contacted customer support and it looks like it will take a fuselage replacement to fix the nose gear. The foam is formed around the wheel well components so it will take cutting the nose wide open to remove it. The nose gear doors are part of the assembly and are not replaceable by themselves. Okay fine. Nobody said this was a cheap hobby.
Old 03-15-2016, 02:17 AM
  #133  
Charley
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Originally Posted by smitty4980
I contacted customer support and it looks like it will take a fuselage replacement to fix the nose gear. The foam is formed around the wheel well components so it will take cutting the nose wide open to remove it. The nose gear doors are part of the assembly and are not replaceable by themselves. Okay fine. Nobody said this was a cheap hobby.
That looks terribly expensive until you look and see all that you get within the fuse.

There is an alternative that I would consider. Remove all the landing gear parts, glue the nose gear doors on and fly it off of water only.

CR
Old 06-06-2016, 03:34 AM
  #134  
Zman39
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Flew my new seawind Saturday. Fly's nice but a couple questions.

I am flying on FP 3s 2200's (172 grams). Even with battery as far forward as possible, it balance's toward the most reward mark (2 3/4"). Is this where most of you are balancing? Book recommends 2" starting point
I am noob with electric stuff and not sure how to decide good prop sizing, I dont even know what size motor is in this thing lol. Could someone recommend a 2 blade prop that may give it a little more speed?

Other than that, very happy with

thx

Z

Last edited by Zman39; 06-06-2016 at 03:38 AM.
Old 06-06-2016, 03:21 PM
  #135  
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Had good luck with a 12 X 6E (305 X 152 mm) by APC that came with my Seawind. Only trouble is if you have a hard nose-first landing, it chops into the fuse just behind the canopy. I have changed to a 3-blade with reduced diameter, but haven't checked it out fully yet.
Old 06-06-2016, 03:50 PM
  #136  
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Hey Charley, I ended up getting a new fuselage which was a bit expensive but I figured the whole amphibian experience was worth it. I peeled off the decals and reapplied them to the new fuselage with 3M 77 spray adhesive. To prevent chopping into the fuselage again I made a temporary strut between the motor and body with a popsicle stick. It prevents excessive flexing of the engine pylon if I land too hard. Keeping up the airspeed during landing is my biggest challenge but I'm doing much better. It's a big switch from my high wing trainer that will glide forever with the throttle chopped.
Old 06-07-2016, 08:45 AM
  #137  
Charley
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Originally Posted by smitty4980
Hey Charley, I ended up getting a new fuselage which was a bit expensive but I figured the whole amphibian experience was worth it. I peeled off the decals and reapplied them to the new fuselage with 3M 77 spray adhesive. To prevent chopping into the fuselage again I made a temporary strut between the motor and body with a popsicle stick. It prevents excessive flexing of the engine pylon if I land too hard. Keeping up the airspeed during landing is my biggest challenge but I'm doing much better. It's a big switch from my high wing trainer that will glide forever with the throttle chopped.
Glad you made a decision and it suits you. That strut sounds like a good idea. Did you paint it white?

On landing, I like to keep the model in a nose-up attitude all the way to touchdown. It may take a touch of throttle to maintain this. After all, you want to "set" the model in landing attitude with the elevator and use the throttle to control the rate of descent.

CR
Old 06-07-2016, 08:53 AM
  #138  
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Some good advice there Charlie!
Old 06-08-2016, 09:51 AM
  #139  
Zman39
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Stock set up. My esc seems to get very hot. Has anyone figured out a way to cool it down some?

thx
Old 06-19-2016, 08:42 AM
  #140  
CLIFF.MOORE48
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purchased 2 (onewas a present for my brother)from tower, also flying in florida, 90 outside, brother crashed his, 3 passes, esc overheated, shut all power off to everything,destroyed fuse, after esc cooled off, power was restored, plane is on its way back to tower/flyzone for investigation , flew my seawind, 2 passes 1/2 to 3/4 throttle,waterlanding, taxied back, esc extremely hot, any longer in air would have met same demise, tower/flyzone just sent another esc for my plane, esc is the same one for the beaver ,its only 40 amp, may need to go to 60amp, or ventilate cabin .
will update with results from tower/flyzone
Old 06-20-2016, 05:42 AM
  #141  
Charley
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Originally Posted by CLIFF.MOORE48
purchased 2 (onewas a present for my brother)from tower, also flying in florida, 90 outside, brother crashed his, 3 passes, esc overheated, shut all power off to everything,destroyed fuse, after esc cooled off, power was restored, plane is on its way back to tower/flyzone for investigation , flew my seawind, 2 passes 1/2 to 3/4 throttle,waterlanding, taxied back, esc extremely hot, any longer in air would have met same demise, tower/flyzone just sent another esc for my plane, esc is the same one for the beaver ,its only 40 amp, may need to go to 60amp, or ventilate cabin. Will update with results from tower/flyzone
Mine is still in the box; been doing other projects. Methinks I'll get the fuse out of the box, put on the prop & run the motor at WOT while measuring the amp draw with my inline wattmeter. Everybody should have one of these. Otherwise you're flying blind.

CR
Old 06-20-2016, 12:32 PM
  #142  
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You might consider buying a small computer fan and using it to cool the esc. Just a little bit of air will help and the fans only draw a few watts. I installed one on my 71" Seawind that has a 100 amp castle esc and it made all the difference in the world, keeping the esc temp under 150 on a long flight vs. heading for over 200 on a short flight.
Old 07-09-2016, 10:45 AM
  #143  
CLIFF.MOORE48
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Just a quick update, Tower/flyzone investigated the ESC, they were able to reproduce the issue, they replaced the plane, problem is theESC, cant find any specs (even from the FlyZone site ) if the ESC has Thermal Protection? If so, dont rely on it to work!, they also sent me a brand new ESC for my plane, anyone want to buy 2 new ESC's!! (LOL), Both of us are going to 60 amp ESC's, with known thermal protection, may ventilate the cabin to be safe (My Polaris Ultra is ventilated nicely may take some ideas from them)
If anyone is having issues, contact tower/flyzone, & if you crashed suspecting the ESC, they will replace the plane.
Hope this info helped
Old 08-04-2016, 05:22 PM
  #144  
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Why on such a good looking plane would they use a foam spinner?How long do you think that will last.
Old 08-04-2016, 05:37 PM
  #145  
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I'm still on my original one!
Old 08-05-2016, 02:34 AM
  #146  
Zman39
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agree with tailskid, no problems. I can't see why anyone would ever have trouble with the foam spinner. Its not like its going to nose over or you put electric starter on it. less weight and looks great in air.
Old 08-05-2016, 03:51 AM
  #147  
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And mine had a spare spinner in the box
Old 09-22-2016, 03:29 PM
  #148  
Charley
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Hey guys,

There's another SW thread over on RCG; much more active.

Update: Flew mine, dunked it the second time out. Here's what happened afterward:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post35788795

CR

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