ryanpilot

My Feedback: (4)

Hey there. Congratz on the build. Would like to see some pictures. As far as covering, without knowing your color and trim layout, always work from the back forward and bottom to top. Any covering you choose will have good directions. When adding trim colors be sure you have the right temperature so the covering does not shrink as you set the edges. If you use MonoKote you can also use trim adhesive. I have not used it but alot of guys have.

I still prefer using some sort of fabric. The edges seal better and it works better around curves. Just my preferance. I really do not like monokote on the water though.

Good luck and I can't wait to see pictures.

Newc

I use Monokote on all my Northstars and floats for other planes and have never had a problem. As mentioned, start from the rear so that the overlapping pieces are from the front, keeping the water - or even air - from attempting to peel the covering off.

jeffo

My Feedback: (68)

Deadstick,
Ryanpilot is right on how to cover.Also Use a Solartex type covering,ryan is correct when going around compound curves tex covering can't be beat,also rember you are going to have a lot of areas where the fuse and wing meet,inside 90 degree areas Solartex covering will go a lot easier.I just finished a 150% Northstar covered completely in Solartex and it came out real nice.-Jeffo

ryanpilot

My Feedback: (4)

I do know people that have not had problems with MonoKote and water. I have seen more though that after some time the seams do leak. Laddie even reccomends using fabric instead of film. To each his own.
There is a little trick that you can use to help the seams of MonoKote never leak. If you are good at even overlap of your seams, try using a piece of scotch brite pad and scuff the surface of the MonoKote where the seam will over lap. This will give a better bond. This also works well where you have a lot of fuel contact.
How many planes have you seen where the fuel residue has crept under the covering. This is a little time consuming but pays off in teh long run.
Something I forgot... If you want to do a custom paint job then use a neutral or a base color of fabric. You can tape and paint fabric easily. Just depends on how much time you want to invest.
All of these stars were covered in fabric and painted with the exception of the checkerboard on the bottom of the one wing.

siddus74

Guys, this thread has been a really good read - although I dont have access to a full time water site I am fortunate to have a bi-annual meet just 20 minutes aways and a site about an hours drive that is accessable once a month! Based on this I am going to build a Northstar . . .

I have email BalsaUsa and hopefully they will be able to post a North Star kit internationaly.

I am how ever puzzled and to the location of the Tank? By the looks of the design it looks like the tank should be on the CG tucked inside the fuselage, but doesnt that effect the fuel feed? Any tips etc would be great . . .

Scott.

LADDIE

siddus 74
I designed the North Star to have the fuel tank located behind the engine for simplicity. This location worked well for me and for thousands other who built the model either from the plans or from the kits. There is nothing wrong putting the fuel tank inside the fuselage in the C/G location, but only if you have reliable pump.
Laddie.

ryanpilot

My Feedback: (4)

I had built a Star with the tank on the C/G. It took a lot of work and I would say, again, put it in the tail where it was designed to go. The only reson I placed the tank in the fuse is because the guy I built the plane for wanted a YS .63 Supercharged engine installed. To save weight, and because this engine is pumped with a closed and pressurised fuel system.

If you put it on the C/G you have to carefully remove spar material and this weakens the required structure as designed. Then you have to do some work in there to make sure it is strong. Considering the wing is attached and becomes part of the fuse.

The plans are very clear about the tank placement and construction.

By the way, a lot of people complain about the so called "weak elevator". After my first plane and a biut of thinking I have not had a problem since. I did two things. I installed the golden rod as required and then cut off a piece of all thread, for that size golden rod (2-56) long enough to go from the clevis and far enough into the inner rod to alse fit far enough into the outter guide so there is a solid and well supported link.

The second thing I did was to make the elevator control surface deeper. The only time I ever thought the elevator was ineffective was dead stick as there is no prop wash over the tail. When I made the control side of the elevator deeper I noticed better control.

wombat69

Here's a couple of photos of my Mini Northstar (65%). When it started it was going to have a .25 but had to change to a .15 when I finished the fuse and found I couldn't turn a suitable sized prop, so changed it to a .15, flys fine with the .15 though.

Wingspan: 735 mm (29")
Wieght: 1.33 KG (3 Lb)
Engine: OS 15 CV-A
Prop: 7 x 5.5 trimmed down for clearance to 6.8 x 5.5.
Micro servos, battery and receiver up the front, no lead needed.

Strykaas

Cute

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Hey, any Northstar activity going on out there? A friend and I are planning on building one of these each. I have to get mine ordered and there seems to be lots of various engines used. What do the plans call for a 60 2 stroke? I also want to build one of the smaller electrics. Is a kit available or plans? Thanks for any guidence.

Jim

ryanpilot

My Feedback: (4)

I have built 4 of these. If you build it as stated in the plans then you will be very pleased with the suggested .46. A lot of people have done a lot of things to this plane but if you want a good build, strong plane, and good flyer then build it per the plans while paying attention to the use of adhesives such as Thin CA. Also do a good job on the glassing, don't over do it and remove as much excess epoxy as possible. If you use the techniques stated that center around a stock build you should save some weight and have a superb flying plane. I plan on building another this winter.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks RP. Yeah, I read the specs after I posted and saw it was a 40 size plane so I'm sure one of my old favorites OS 46 FX''s will do just fine. My friend said he was putting a 90 4 stroke on his but I'm worried about the weight of that high mounted engine configuration. I never was one to overpower planes. Got a Saito 73 on my Hanger 9 81" span Cub and flies off water with no problem and have a 72 Saito on my Hog Bipe and now on my Astro Hog and both had great power. It try to build light and I'm sure that helps too. Can't wait to start this build.

ryanpilot

My Feedback: (4)

The problem with running 4 strokes is the lack of prop clearance for the diameter prop needed to get the power out of the engine. You wil need to run a 3 bladed prop. The major problem with the engine your friend is using is that the plane will be so over weight that it will never fly right if at all. My 3rd Star came out about 5.5lbs and with a Tower .46, Macs pipe and a Master Airscrew 10x9 @ sea level I was able to get 104mph on 20% Omega. There are many things to read about this plane. I will tell you that you may want to back the rate of the ailerons down at least 25% of stated throw from the plans. We found the hard way that we backed them off 50% until we got familiar with the plane. It rolls very axial and very fast. I would also put in some expo.

siddus74

I totaly agree with Ryanpilot, build it as per plan an you wont be dissapointed . . . I have other water plane friends with them. The built up ones with the OS55AX on an MAS 11x7 seem to be the best ones as far as performance, blistering 0 - 60 We Race them, the one I use on the water has an OS50SXH with a JettPipe and 11x7 MAS and its wickedly fast, (95db @14000 rpm) its not got the exceleration of the built up ones as mine has foam wings but the top speed is comparable.

I have a built up version with undercart for land use with an OS55AX and again a 11x7 MAS with a standard silencer (keeps it quiet) its no where near as fast due to undercart I think, but still nice to fly and looks great.

I would say that a .90 4 stroker is definately an incorrect choice, you want maximum power with RPM but with as little weight due to the weight required to ballance it out . . . the 55AX has 1.85hp standard my OS50SXH has 1.9hp and they are a .46 crankcase!

Good luck

Scott

(I have the Arrow as well!)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pP8TKsmWD90[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMpp6Z97_EQ[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rY-RSwfHdnQ[/youtube]

ryanpilot

My Feedback: (4)

Good job on the swept wing North Star, it looks great and looks like it flies good. Gives me an idea for my next buld. When I built my last Star O.S. did not have the new 55 out and for the power to weight ratio the Tower .46 was the best I could do on my budget. The trick then was to put Jett engine and pipe but I just could not afford it.

Strykaas

Great vids, thanks for sharing ! The Northstar sounds underpropped ... Why not try a higher pitch one ?

siddus74

You may have something there . . . they do do an 11x8 . . . I think the Jett Pipe's extra power could be the key to that prop and a little more speed . . . :-)

Scott.

Break it Bill

Has anyone had a problem with the nose pitching straight up?  I did a maiden on a North Star and the engine quit on me.  As I was gliding it in the nose pitched straight up the plane stalled and then it went straight into the ground, breaking the nose all up.  I did not think that I was anywhere near a stalling speed.  All the mechanical and electronic gear seems to check out.  I had one thought, that maybe I had gotten to slow and the back of the wing stalled while the front fuslage and wing did not stall.  Let me know if anyone has any thoughts.

iflyj3

My Feedback: (7)

That is a trait of the Northstar. If you do it just above the water, it looks neat. As you found out, don't do it just above the land.

hotrod31

howdy folks! Im building a northstar and planing on put a o.s .46 ax in it with a stock muffler in it. Do I have to put the motor in at 45degrees os can I upright? also does anyone have a picture of the throttle servo in the engine pod?

bikerbc

I put a OS 46 AX with a stock muffler in my North Star mounted 90 degrees and it works great...You can turn the end of the muffler to direct the exhaust away from the tail and add a exhaust deflector if you want....It stays pretty clean ..The Muffler has no problem clearing the fin...My plans show the motor mounted this way and thats how it seems to fit the best for me..I don't see why 45 degrees wouldn't work too .. I went with 90 degrees because it placed my needle closer to where I wanted it....Ultra Sport Brotherhood # 100 Cub Brother # 7 Biker BC

Bob93447

Has anyone used dual aileron servos mounted on top of the wing?

Bob93447

As I progress through the build of my Balsa USA Northstar kit, I have decided to build it pretty much as stock. However, there are some differences between the kit, the kit instructions, and the original drawings supplied. Does anyone have a copy of the original March, 1986 RCM construction article? I would like to read/get a copy just to be clear about the building process.

Thanks,

Bob

aa1a

My Feedback: (4)

I've just started work on my Northstar number three. Number one is long gone. Number two is getting old. It is still flying but the back end leaks so badly it's only good for a flight or two. It will finish it's life as a land plane. I have had problems with both Monokote and Ultracote sticking as the airplanes aged. I am thinking about priming and painting the new airplane with a good epoxy paint and only covering the wing with film. The belly will be glassed before painting. Has anyone tried this.? Any comments?
Jim

wombat69

I have had two and I also built a 50% one with a .15 OS installed, I glassed the bottom of all of them, it gave them a bit more strength and made them water proof. The glass needs to extend around the sides, upto the underside of the wing, about an inch all the way down the side.

I covered all mine with solartex, very good and gives you a good seal around the edges, not sure if they still make it, but if you can, use it on the bottom and sides.
Gary