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Great Planes Seawind

Old 03-04-2006, 10:02 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I to noticed the play in the wings. Mine appears to have an 1/8th inch of play at the tips. The only other disappointment I've had was the gel coat was discolored by 30% fuel.

I did the maiden flight on Friday off of wheels and its a very nice solid flying airplane. Plenty of power with a magnum 91fs and 12x8 3 bladed prop. Landings with and without the flaps were a breeze. It needed very little trim and the only change I will make is a gear elevator mix. I was disappointed when the right gear collapsed on roll out on the 4th landing and it appears there was very little glue on the front gear mount on the right wing. I was hoping to do some touch and goes off the snow but the damage to the wing prevented that. I had to add about 8oz of lead shot to bring the balance into spec.

I'm looking forward to flying it off of liquid water but that wont happen for at least another month unless there is a major warm spell.
Old 03-04-2006, 10:44 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I CA'd a few ~1" strips of 1/64" plywood to the Aluminum wing joiner. Two on the outboard top, two on the inboard bottom. They were sanded as required to prevent binding during wing installation and removal. No play now. Seemed like a reasonable fix.

Jonathan
Old 03-05-2006, 11:43 AM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

Sorry, but I don't understand how you did this . Could you explain again in other words. I think you also mentioned this in a past thread.
Old 03-05-2006, 10:59 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

At both outboard tips of the Aluminum wing joiner on the top surface, you want something increase the height of the wing joiner to take up the play, kind of a shim. I merely glued some 1/64" ply and sanded it to the width of the wing joiner. I made them a little better than an inch long to distribute the wing loading. That helped but didn't completely remove the play. Rather than lay another strip on top of those, I added some separate strips to the bottom of the aluminum joiner, this time just outboard of the fuselage (just within the wing). The combination of the two effectively form a wedge and completely removed the play. Time will tell if it was a good fix. Hope this helps. I can post images if not.

Jonathan
Old 03-07-2006, 03:45 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

ORIGINAL: blood_hound

I to noticed the play in the wings. Mine appears to have an 1/8th inch of play at the tips. The only other disappointment I've had was the gel coat was discolored by 30% fuel.

I did the maiden flight on Friday off of wheels and its a very nice solid flying airplane. Plenty of power with a magnum 91fs and 12x8 3 bladed prop. Landings with and without the flaps were a breeze. It needed very little trim and the only change I will make is a gear elevator mix. I was disappointed when the right gear collapsed on roll out on the 4th landing and it appears there was very little glue on the front gear mount on the right wing. I was hoping to do some touch and goes off the snow but the damage to the wing prevented that. I had to add about 8oz of lead shot to bring the balance into spec.

I'm looking forward to flying it off of liquid water but that wont happen for at least another month unless there is a major warm spell.
You might get Santas little helpers to help with the repairs .....you could fit scates to the hull and fly off the solid water , you might need some sort of brakes though

also a good waxing of the fiberglass will stop staining ect
Old 03-07-2006, 09:41 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

Has anyone installed nav. lights and landing lights in the wing tips as per scale?
Old 03-12-2006, 05:04 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

Another Question about Balance. My SeaWind already has some shot fiberglassed in the nose, which seems to be a factory install, but it cannot be much, because despite all my building skills, the plane is still tail heavy.

I have an OS.91 Four Stroke mounted, and an 1800ma battery as far forward as can be, but still tail heavy. Just how much will the bird require before balancing at the 1 1/32" location as per the manual?

I have no gear, just the cover, and if the balance is at the assigned location dry, what happens when the fuel tank is filled, the balance point will be aft!

I could really use some help here, I want to get this right the first time...
Old 03-12-2006, 06:12 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I just realized that this model is flying without a pilot. So weight is needed to compensate. Sounds silly huh? Maybe that's what balances out the real Seawind. The weight of a 180Lb pilot. Has anyone calculated any balance ratios between the full size verses the model. Maybe adding , I read >12oz , to the nose is just what we have to deal with. Including a nose forward battery.

Has anyone ran the thing with the tank sitting at CG yet? A tank at or in front of CG might help a little. I still have reservations about this though. Engine dependency issues. I hate rowing after a stalled plane.

Dean

Old 03-12-2006, 06:15 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

Mine is on the way , I intend to move everything as far forward as poss, carbon tube pushrods/pull/pull ect , tank on cg with iron bay pump, OS 91 2st (best power to weight ratio) , light weight home made muffler, water flying default , possible strap on u/c dolly for landflying , some sort of water rudder.......
Old 03-12-2006, 06:27 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

ORIGINAL: GreyfoxVt

Another Question about Balance. My SeaWind already has some shot fiberglassed in the nose, which seems to be a factory install, but it cannot be much, because despite all my building skills, the plane is still tail heavy.

I have an OS.91 Four Stroke mounted, and an 1800ma battery as far forward as can be, but still tail heavy. Just how much will the bird require before balancing at the 1 1/32" location as per the manual?

I have no gear, just the cover, and if the balance is at the assigned location dry, what happens when the fuel tank is filled, the balance point will be aft!

I could really use some help here, I want to get this right the first time...
G/P should really have given the cg with the half full tank AND quote the weight of this fuel , ie 8oz ect , thenyou will know exactly where to balance it with that weight in the tail , because this will be the AVERAGE position between a full tank and a near empty one (time to land) obviously the wing section will tollerate a cg shift between these parameters , but I dont like any cg shift and will put the tank on the cg.....
Old 03-12-2006, 08:42 PM
  #386  
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I spoke to the GP rep at the WRAM show regarding regarding setting up the Seawind for land AND water flying. He said no problem you would just need to waterproof the front. Don't remember for sure but I thought he also said that there might be instructions to do this.

Anyone flying both land and water?

Thanks
Old 03-12-2006, 10:44 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I'm working on getting it ready for true amphib operations. The last kink I'm ironing out is the geometry for making the gear door retractable. Some Sonic Tronic hinges seem to work well however, you will have a slight gap of around 3/32" all around the door. This will be fine anyway as when you roll out into the water and pull the gear up you'll want that space there to let the water out of the nose wheel compartment rather fast. Before I put the wing tips on, I waterproofed the bare wood with thinned epoxy and then sealed the end with monokote. The tips were then attached with silicon for a nice tight fit. same method for the wing roots makes for a tight waterproof seal there.
Old 03-13-2006, 01:51 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

Hi Greyfox,


I'm using a Thunder Tiger .91 4stroke ( 27 oz.) with an 1800ma battery and the fixed landing gear and still needed to add 20 oz. to the nose. Since I will try to fly land and water I used "c" cell batteries velcroed to the nose section. When I want to fly off water I will remove the landing gear and add the water rudder and rebalance. I can now add or remove weight as needed.

As for the balance point with or without a full tank...I spoke to GP and they explained that the tank needs to be empty. He said they have taken this into consideration with they set the balance point at 1 1/32".

Phil
Old 03-13-2006, 09:06 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I am starting to question about the need to water-proof the nose gear compartment if you want to make it truly amphibian. I think even if the water gets into the nose retract well, it still can prevent water from entering the inner hull. All you need to retract the nose gear is a tube for pneumatic operation. You can get a straight threaded plastic coupling to go through the fiberclass wall. And this passage can be easily water-proofed.

As for the pneumatic nose gear unit. It is air proof, so it should be water proof. Even if you soak the nose retract in water, I don't see what's the concern here.
Old 03-14-2006, 02:00 AM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I think the concern is that with the hole open, you have a big resistance to the water, and it's hard enough geting them on the plane with the hull smooth
Old 04-05-2006, 09:37 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I just read you article on making the seawind a true anphipian. Did you project work? I do want to do this myself.I am concerned about the plane being two nose heavy before the water get out. Can you give any advice. Thank you.

Bob V
Old 04-05-2006, 09:50 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

Since everybody seems to need nearly a pound of weight in the front, I don't think you need to worry about being nose heavy.

Don
Old 04-20-2006, 08:37 AM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

OK, I've read all the posts and a lot of great information. I'm building the plane for a customer. It is set up for fixed gear. The customer has a .70 OS 4S that I have hung on it. Now comes some questions - 1. The control horns on the ailerons and flaps - how did most of you attach them? The normal screws that I use are too short to pass through. Did everyone use the short screws to just screw into the hard blocks? I'm thinking about using expoxy to glue them to the wood (after cutting away the moncoke) and then rescrewing them down. I personally do not like just using little screws to secure the control horns without using a back plate.
2nd question -- does anyone really think that the .70 4S will fly this plane? I personally think that it will be underpowered, and if it does get out of ground effect, it will fly like a pig (using a 13" 3 blade prop)
3. On teh CG, instructions say to balance with an empty fuel tank, but with tank behind the CG, some schools of thought says to balance withe a full tank - any suggestions?
Old 04-20-2006, 11:58 AM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

IF youve read all the posts........ you will see that those that have flown sucsessfully have followed the instructions on CG , aparently , the plane will tolerate the cg shift between a full and empty tank , me ...Im putting my tank ON the CG
Old 04-22-2006, 02:55 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I'd doubt that a 70 FS is adequate to even get it off the ground, much less water. Not for any distance anyway. I'd call that flirting with disaster. A 990 -100 FS should be good though. I have a Saito 100 for mine, if I ever get that far....
Old 04-22-2006, 03:04 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

As far as the screws go, I agree about using a backplate

You can go to Microfasteners.com and get some longer #2 caphead screws

http://www.microfasteners.com/catalo...cts/SSCSCA.cfm (up to 1 1/2" long)

Don
Old 04-22-2006, 03:58 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

There's a saying thats been around and makes a lot of sence...." Lighter planes fly better"
Now because the engine weight is behind the CoG , the heavier the engine , the more nose weight you will need = heavier plane
I would think that a big four stroke would not be the best choice , my research says that the best power to weight ratio is a 2 stroke...
The OS 91 2stroke weighs 19.42 oz , and puts out 2.8 hp , this is what Im using. (its a .60 thats been bored and stroked)
The next best would be a .70 2 stroke , a bit lighter , but less power ,prob be OK
Ill also do what I can to reduce the tail weight......tank on the CG , move everything as far forward as poss , no servoe's in the tail ect
Old 04-22-2006, 04:03 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

I agree totally about using two strokes to keep the weight down. Some people have moved the tank around and used a pump. I also have see a EP version with the batteries used for balance. It flew well. You limited in what prop can be used, so that has to be part of the overall plan. If I recall, a 13" dia. prop is the max that can be used.
Old 04-22-2006, 05:42 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind


ORIGINAL: SON OF PALEFACE

There's a saying thats been around and makes a lot of sence...." Lighter planes fly better"
Now because the engine weight is behind the CoG , the heavier the engine , the more nose weight you will need = heavier plane
I would think that a big four stroke would not be the best choice , my research says that the best power to weight ratio is a 2 stroke...
The OS 91 2stroke weighs 19.42 oz , and puts out 2.8 hp , this is what Im using. (its a .60 thats been bored and stroked)
The next best would be a .70 2 stroke , a bit lighter , but less power ,prob be OK
Ill also do what I can to reduce the tail weight......tank on the CG , move everything as far forward as poss , no servoe's in the tail ect
I think you forgot about muffler weight, which is 6 oz for stock muffler, and 4 oz for BCM Pitts. I think some usage experience may alter your research result.

In fact, most 61, 70, and 91 weight about the same, with about 1 to 2 oz of difference due to the muffler weight.

4-strokes have the advantage of lighter muffler, which will result in lower overall weight for the same thrust. If you don't know about it, you should check out Saito 100.

The only exceptions are the 2-strokes that are bored out from .40 size casing, like the Jett 78 BSE. It weighs 16 oz including muffler. I almost bought it for my Seawind, except the price was way too steep. I decided to go with YS 63-S 4-stroke instead. It has more power than unpiped 61, and weighs 17 oz including muffler. It will swing 13x4W @ over 12000 rpm on high nitro, and is about as much thrust as you can get into the Seawind.

The new Webra 55 GT is worth a look. Fitting it with a mini-pipe, it may out-pull YS 63-S, and will weigh about 16 oz altogether. If I see some promising results, I may opt for this one.
Old 04-22-2006, 06:06 PM
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Default RE: Great Planes Seawind

If you read my post 384 you will see that i said there that I am making my own lightweight muffler (in cowl)
Also I said the OS 91 , has the best Power to Weight RATIO , while the Saito 100 weighs about the same it only puts out 1.8 HP , the OS 91 puts out 2.8hp
I have been building models for 40+years and I think I have enough "useage experience" thank you
The price of NITRO is very expensive here , so the use of an engine that swallows large amounts is not on the top of my list

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