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Great Planes Seawind

Old 09-17-2015, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbird3
Sharpeye, check out my pictures of how I put the switch in. Tony Loomis owns it now as of two weeks ago. I'm not sure what page it's on but lots of photos! Perhaps Iony would be kind enough to take a few???? I purposle did'nt put a charge port in it since the canopy comes off after each flight day. I also mountet all servos for the fuselege inside. Wings are per recomendation. Good flying
bird.



Hey Tony, did you fly it yet?
Hope all went well.
bird. Any video????
Hi Bob,

I gave the Seawind a couple of tries. On the first I had a splash as I think an aileron servo locked up and I could not level the plane coming off the water. No damage to the plane however. I always find flying the Seawind raises my adrenaline and reduces my judgement, so on the second session I resolved just to practice and then cut the throttle and land again. This was successful with many takeoffs. I'm saving the full flying for next summer(we're back home now). I put a video of the last takeoff run on YouTube:

https://youtu.be/WJt33M8DcwE

Thanks again for selling me the Seawind.

Tony


Hopefully you will see things were working well
Old 09-17-2015, 07:15 PM
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Very nice Tony. Hope to see more later on. The shop is coming along nicely. A little slower than I like but close now.If I can get the dormer on the house before snow flies, I'll be all set. Glad you and the misses had a safe trip. Please keep in touch.
bird.
Old 09-21-2015, 01:35 PM
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here is an update on my Seawind assembly.

I took the ideal of two different post and put them together. My on off switch is in the nose of the main body actuated by a golden rod from the tail. I included a blinking anti collision light at the end of the pushrod at the scale location. The power wires for the light run inside the inner tube and along the outside of the inner tube. They exit at the end of the blue outer tube and plug into the receiver so when the receiver is powered up so is the anti collision light.
I also installed the charge port on the pylon with the inside well sealed with silicone.
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Last edited by Sharpeye22; 09-21-2015 at 03:02 PM.
Old 09-21-2015, 08:01 PM
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[QUOTE=Sharpeye22;12102578]here is an update on my Seawind assembly.

I took the ideal of two different post and put them together. My on off switch is in the nose of the main body actuated by a golden rod from the tail. I included a blinking anti collision light at the end of the pushrod at the scale location. The power wires for the light run inside the inner tube and along the outside of the inner tube. They exit at the end of the blue outer tube and plug into the receiver so when the receiver is powered up so is the anti collision light.


Thanks for using my idea on the power switch. I don't think I would mount anything externally as they WILL get wet. After all, the canopy comes off in between flying sessions. Cool collision light app.
bird.
Old 09-22-2015, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbird3
I don't think I would mount anything externally as they WILL get wet. After all, the canopy comes off in between flying sessions. Cool collision light app.
bird.
I will not need to open the canopy except for maintinance. My battery is a 6600 lith-ion. It is 11.1 volts stepped down with a voltage regulator to 6 volts. It's external charging jack was easy to seal from water entry. The on/off cable for the switch is filled with vasaline to prevent water entry. And all the servos will get the need attention as well. So when I seal the canopy water should stay out. At least that is the plan. Lol
Old 09-22-2015, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharpeye22
I will not need to open the canopy except for maintinance. My battery is a 6600 lith-ion. It is 11.1 volts stepped down with a voltage regulator to 6 volts. It's external charging jack was easy to seal from water entry. The on/off cable for the switch is filled with vasaline to prevent water entry. And all the servos will get the need attention as well. So when I seal the canopy water should stay out. At least that is the plan. Lol
Not if you put the ball check in!!!!!!! They leak! Never leave anything to chance. I'm speaking from experience. Especially with water craft. CHECK IT EVERY TIME. Water will get in around the wing joints,the motor mount area. No offence bud, don't be a dope! I've been a dope on more than one occasion. Never ever leave visual maintainance to once in a while. BTW, how are you mounting the canopy?
Happy, happy.
bird
Old 09-22-2015, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbird3
Not if you put the ball check in!!!!!!! They leak! Never leave anything to chance. I'm speaking from experience. Especially with water craft. CHECK IT EVERY TIME. Water will get in around the wing joints,the motor mount area. No offence bud, don't be a dope! I've been a dope on more than one occasion. Never ever leave visual maintainance to once in a while. BTW, how are you mounting the canopy?
Happy, happy.
bird
Thanks for the concern, and I understand what you are saying. I too have experienced it during the past 40 years of messing with 1st boats then planes. And true water is the one fluid that can slip past the best barrier. However, one can slow it to a near stop.

The plane is small enough to transport and store fully assembled, so the wings will be permanently attached so root will be sealed.

I already have an old tried and true method to seal the servos and motor mount area.

I sealed the bailer hole with an inspection port. (Clear plexiglass to see if water had got into the hull.)

I will seal the hatch for the fuel tank and the canopy with silicon. If I need to remove it there will be a thin wire baired across it to cut it free. (Another tried and true method)

Of course if I get a tear in the wing covering I will have a bit of a problem.

Thanks again for the concern.
Old 02-07-2016, 09:06 AM
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I'm very interested in the Seawind as my next (2nd) plane. I've watched videos on you tube of several different ones and the Flyzone looks like the only one that is a true amphibian. I think it's the one I'm leaning towards.
Old 02-08-2016, 07:26 AM
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Smitty,

Depending on what your first plane was; you may not want a Seawind as a 2nd plane. This one is not what I would consider a beginner plane. If you do get one, and I am selling one BTW, I would highly recommend you fly it on a buddy box until you get used to its unique flying characteristics.

Mark
Old 02-08-2016, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MMallory
Smitty,

Depending on what your first plane was; you may not want a Seawind as a 2nd plane. This one is not what I would consider a beginner plane. If you do get one, and I am selling one BTW, I would highly recommend you fly it on a buddy box until you get used to its unique flying characteristics.

Mark
Thanks Mark. I've been flying an Ares Gamma 370 pro for about 10 months now. With lots of glue, tape and propellers it's still flying. The guys at the flying club keep asking me about moving up to something more challenging. On my first trip to the club I won an LA Racer 40 with a $10 raffle ticket which I haven't flown yet but it is ready once I purchase an appropriate size battery. This plane is plywood, balsa and monocote so repairs won't be simple if/when I crash it. I think I want a bigger and more challenging foamie before I fly this one. I live by a river which is why I'd like a seaplane. The flying club I go to has an 850' X 90' grass runway mowed in a 37 acre hay field, so an amphibian seems like the way to go. I have a RealFlight simulator and have spent a ton of time flying the different seaplanes on it under various conditions. You're right about them being a challenge. One of the biggest things about the Flyzone Seawind I've seen in reviews is the nose gear seems to be a problem collapsing. Are there any problem areas you have had with yours?
Old 02-08-2016, 10:49 AM
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Personally at the stage you are at I would get a nice Cub with floats. Then I would get a nicely loaded war bird or something similar as the next step. Moving from foam to built up planes will be a nice change by itself.

The most different thing I noticed with the Seawind is the trim changes with throttle (since the engine is above the CG). It's not bad just different. Think about an aborted landing where most people want a lot of throttle to get out of trouble. With this plane if you give too much it will push the nose down. You will need to "fly" it off of water and during landings on water. Keep in mind I've only flown my Great Planes version of this plane.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Mark
Old 02-08-2016, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MMallory
Personally at the stage you are at I would get a nice Cub with floats. Then I would get a nicely loaded war bird or something similar as the next step. Moving from foam to built up planes will be a nice change by itself.

The most different thing I noticed with the Seawind is the trim changes with throttle (since the engine is above the CG). It's not bad just different. Think about an aborted landing where most people want a lot of throttle to get out of trouble. With this plane if you give too much it will push the nose down. You will need to "fly" it off of water and during landings on water. Keep in mind I've only flown my Great Planes version of this plane.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Mark
Thanks for the recommendations. I hadn't thought of the engine placement making a difference with power usage. I've also been considering the Flyzone Beaver that comes with wheels and floats, just have to change them up depending on where you fly. I'll give it some thought before I make a decision. I don't think I'll ever be a 3D guy. I love the warbirds and scale planes which is the direction I'm inclined to go.
Old 02-08-2016, 04:18 PM
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Yep, I concur with the cautious opinions. I have one but haven't flown it yet and I have never heard anyone call it a beginner or even an early intermediate plane. A Cub type plane on floats is an awesome thing though! I have the large Hanger 9 quarter scale Cub and fiberglass floats and its a sweetheart to takeoff, land and fly. While I am not recommending a 1/4 scale the configuration is great!
Old 02-08-2016, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty4980
I'm very interested in the Seawind as my next (2nd) plane. I've watched videos on you tube of several different ones and the Flyzone looks like the only one that is a true amphibian. I think it's the one I'm leaning towards.
The seawind that is a handful to takeoff and land is the larger 90 size Great Planes version that is no longer being sold. The electric foam version is a dream to fly in all ways. I saw one of the new Flyzone ones that you are talking about and its hull, airfoil, and wingtip floats are completely different than the larger Great Planes one everyone has been talking about. Though I did not get to see it fly it should be a lot more dosel than its big brother.

The engine pod on top of the wing does present a few unique flying characteristics that you will not find on land based planes. That coupled with the new things to learn about float flying in general might still rule it out for a 1st float plane. I would suggest putting floats on a plane you are use to flying and get use to float flying in general before tackling it.

The Great Planes 90, however requires an experienced pilot to keep it out of trouble. And even then things can go south quick.

Last edited by Sharpeye22; 03-26-2016 at 12:52 PM.
Old 02-08-2016, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharpeye22
The seawind that is a handful to takeoff and land is the larger 90 size Great Planes version that is no longer being sold. The electric foam version is a dream to fly in all ways. I saw one of the new Flyzone ones that you are talking about and its hull, airfoil, and wingtip floats are completely different than the larger Great Planes one everyone has been talking about. Though I did not get to see it fly it should be a lot more dosel than its big brother.

The engine pod on top of the wing does present a few unique flying characteristics that you will not find on land based planes. That coupled with the new things to learn about float flying in general might still rule it out for a 1st float plane. I would suggest putting floats on a plane you are use to flying and get use to float flying in general before tackling it.

I have been flying my Great Planes 90 for all of last summer, and have enjoyed it. It however requires an experienced pilot to keep it out of trouble. And even then things can go south quick.
Great suggestion. I think I could adapt my Ares Gamma Pro 370 easy enough to make wheels and floats interchangeable without much work at all. I should have thought of that. I love these forums.
Old 03-26-2016, 12:47 PM
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I was told to not seal up the main hatch like I had planned. I was told that no matter what I did water would get inside so I would need to be able to open the hatch and dry things out in inspect things. Below is a pic of the inside of my Seawind after having flown several flights and taxied around a lot.



As as you can see it is bone dry. I was going to seal it up with silicon seal but I used a clear thick packing tape instead.

Below low is how I transport it to the field, and it setting ready for a flite.

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Last edited by Sharpeye22; 03-26-2016 at 12:56 PM.
Old 03-26-2016, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharpeye22
I was told to not seal up the main hatch like I had planned. I was told that no matter what I did water would get inside so I would need to be able to open the hatch and dry things out in inspect things. Below is a pic of the inside of my Seawind after having flown several flights and taxied around a lot.



As as you can see it is bone dry. I was going to seal it up with silicon seal but I used a clear thick packing tape instead.

Below low is how I transport it to the field, and it setting ready for a flite.



Larry, why the extended tip floats? The last thing you want is the tips digging in at high speed, and I don't care how good you think you are, you will drop a tip! I sealed my canopy with three quqrter inch clear vynal tape. It started taking the clear coat off. You can see my earlier posts how I mounted my switch to keep water out.

bird
Old 03-26-2016, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbird3
Larry, why the extended tip floats? The last thing you want is the tips digging in at high speed, and I don't care how good you think you are, you will drop a tip! I sealed my canopy with three quqrter inch clear vynal tape. It started taking the clear coat off. You can see my earlier posts how I mounted my switch to keep water out.

bird
All good points,

I was was having problems with the entire wing tip digging in during taxi which did not allow the plane to get up to takeoff speed. The tip floats is a copy of what is on the other versions of the Seawind and my PBY. Now the wing tip stays out of the water, and when it does touch at higher speed it just skips over the water and does its job of keeping the wing tip out of the water. This modification was described and used by others earlier in this thread.

If you look back in the post you will see how I mounted the switch. It might be a modification of your method. The switch is in the front of the plane but activated by golden rod that comes from the back tip of the vertical stab.


The thing that I have had the most trouble with is setting the flight mode for the water rudder to get the throw right for takeoff. I got down to 8% of normal throws with 40% expo.
Old 03-27-2016, 05:16 AM
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Very intestering on the floats. It doesn't seem plausible till you put it in action! Tho it works! Yes the golden rod was mine. It just seemed to make sence. I finally sold mine last summer after eight years and only three flights. Just didn't care for the logistics of water born flight. In my older age, 64 now, I prefere to build a lot and fly a little! Trust me when I say that you will gravitate in that direction as you progress in this hobby. Flying can become redundant and boring.It's not my challenge but building is very challenging and more rewarding than flitting around from 'groung to ground'. I spent one year, 308 hours building a Hostetler Piper Pawnee, //flew it a dozen times or so and now I don't care if I fly it again! Really wierd, right? Oh well, NEXT! I love ARF's because you can get anything you pretty much like right now! But, building it yourself, well, that says something about you.
Enjoy the hobby my friend, go as far as you caqn ths then go farther. Further?
bird
Old 06-11-2016, 01:01 PM
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Question-- can anyone tell me the diameter of the piano wire that connects the water rudder to the main rudder on the 71" Seawind? Mine let go and sank so I don't have a good way of determining what diameter it was.
Old 09-20-2016, 04:00 PM
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Sad story. I finally got my Seawind dialed in and flying beautifully. Today (and a beautiful day it was) we had a Float Fly at a friends cottage on Crystal Lake in Connecticut. I got in 2 1/2 flights when the receiver stopped listening to the transmitter. The plane is in pretty rough shape and I'm looking to replace it. I can obtain a short kit from Traplet Publications but I have so many other irons in the fire that I prefer to buy a plane that's in new or really good condition. I don't need the engine or the radio gear. Any sellers out there?
Old 09-21-2016, 03:07 AM
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John,

I'll sell mine. It only has 4-5 flights on it. No water flights. Pickup in NJ.

Mark
Old 09-21-2016, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MMallory
John,

I'll sell mine. It only has 4-5 flights on it. No water flights. Pickup in NJ.

Mark
Mark, I'm interested. Can you provide some detail photos? I'm especially interested in the area around the base of the pylon. That area seemed to be the weak spot in the design.
Old 12-19-2016, 11:16 AM
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Seawind fly's great, There were 2 of them at the Lake Havasu, AZ float fly in Nov. Canopy came off on inverted... hit the prop... it went in very slowly... inverted. I am asembling mine now. Wallace. Tharp

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Old 12-20-2016, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Square Nozzle
I can obtain a short kit from Traplet Publications but...
John, do you have a URL link for this short kit?

Thanks
Don

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